July 31-August 6, 2003

cover story

Neighborhood Knowledge

Market fresh: The center of Bella Vista life is the storied Italian Market. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

The ins and outs of popular rental destinations and tips for off-campus living.

BELLA VISTA

Nightlife: Some local bars don't take kindly to strangers, but you can always drink with other decent renters at Low and Royal Tavern (which also has a decent menu). Bella Vista is mostly about food. Excellent breakfast/lunch/brunch options at Sabrina's, Carman's Country Kitchen and the Morning Glory (better put your name in before you're hungry, though). Fine evening dining at Butcher's Cafe, Ralph's, Little Fish, Pif, Pho Ha, Ba Le and Mama Yolanda's, and even finer, more expensive dining at Mezza Luna, Dante & Luigi's and Vesuvio. Sarcone's Deli, Taqueria La Veracruzanas, Isgro bakery and Center City Pretzel Co. are the everyday tastes of Bella Vista.

Recreation: The primary neighborhood exercise is strolling the Italian Market, shopping for stinky cheese, big hunks of meat (living and dead) and fresh vegetables. Our hearts are warmed by the glow of the burning oil drums. (But the Market is not the cleanest place in the world. In real life, Rocky probably would have slipped on a rotting artichoke soon after starting his famous run.) Check out the underused bocce court at 10th and Carpenter, the Palumbo Rec Center and smaller parks scattered around. From spring to autumn, it's easy to hunt for cheap stuff at neighborhood crap sales since, just about every weekend, somebody's got a little table on the sidewalk littered with the family's worst purchases and lesser heirlooms. BV contains neither a Wawa nor a public statue (chances are it would be the bronze likenesses of the Pope, Rizzo or Dave Schultz beating up Satan).

Old school: Food and laughter come together at Koch's Deli in West Philly. Photo By Michael T. Regan

Culture: The Fleisher Art Memorial

SEPTA: It's all about buses -- routes 47, 63 and 23. (Check www.septa.org for more information.)

Parking: Plenty of free, legal spots, including blocks of diagonal parking along 11th Street.

Housing stock: 41 percent rentals; 83 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 6,824; 15 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (15 percent), 18-34 (30 percent), over 34 (55 percent)

Councilmember name and phone number: First District Councilman Frank DiCicco, 215-686-3458

Police district and phone number: Third District, 215-686-3030

Biggest crime problem: With just two murders in the Third during all of 2002, theft is the biggest worry here.

Most famous landmark: Italian Market and its immense (and oft-defaced) Rizzo mural. He's huge!

Brief neighborhood history: One day in the '70s, somebody in real estate decided "South Philly" wasn't Old World enough and "Western Queen Village" wasn't tough enough. Imagine the Mafia's surprise when they found out they'd been living in Bella Vista all these years. Somebody musta got shot for it.

EAST FALLS

Nightlife: East Falls benefits from neighbor Manayunk's overflow but has hot spots too. The Hidden River Cafe, Indigo, Sprigs, Fat Edna's and Vaccarelli's East End Tavern are several that contribute to the neighborhood scene.

Recreation: Venice Island, Houston and Kendrick playgrounds. Discovery and performing arts camps at the Roxborough YMCA.

Culture: Old Academy Players on Indian Queen Lane; Textile Speechweavers of Philadelphia University

SEPTA: Getting there is easy since East Falls is home to the Wissahickon Transfer Center, a major SEPTA hub. You can get to Center City on routes 32, 38 or 61, to the Northeast on routes R and 1, to Port Richmond on the route 60 or Germantown on the route K.

Parking: Not so good. With the benefit of being in proximity to one of the city's hottest nightlife destinations comes the burden of never finding a parking spot, especially since there aren't permit-only blocks to chase the riffraff away.

Housing stock: 55 percent rentals; 58 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 10,416; 21 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (18 percent), 18-34 (33 percent), over 34 (49 percent)

Councilmember name and phone number: Fourth District Councilman Michael Nutter, 215-686-3416

Police district and phone number: 39th District, 215-686-3390

Biggest crime problem: Like Manayunk, it's relatively clean, but cross that line into the 39th, and you're in the land of the third highest murder rate in the city. (Even though, of course, the East Falls portion is considerably safer than the rest.)

Most famous landmark: Falls Bridge

Brief neighborhood history: Formerly called Falls of the Schuylkill and Falls Village, East Falls was named for the Schuylkill River rapids that disappeared after the completion of the Fairmount Dam. Today, when he's not governing, Ed Rendell calls the neighborhood home.

FAIRMOUNT

Nightlife: Numerous bars and restaurants including Bishop's Collar, Bridgid's, Jack's Firehouse, London Grill, The North Star, Rembrandt's and Tavern on Green.

Recreation: Walking, jogging and bicycling distance to Fairmount Park, Kelly Drive (with Boathouse Row and the Schuylkill), West River Drive (which is closed for recreational use on summer weekends) and the Ben Franklin Parkway (which has numerous ball fields and dog parks on its Fairmount side).

Culture: Philadelphia Museum of Art

SEPTA: Several bus routes -- namely the 7, 32 and 48 -- run through the neighborhood into Center City and South Philadelphia.

Parking: Most of the neighborhood is free, but permits -- the standard, citywide rates are $35 for the first year, $20 in subsequent years -- are required on some streets (several blocks of Aspen and on Pennsylvania Avenue in front of the high-rise apartments).

Housing stock: 64 percent rentals; 58 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 17,034; 13 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (15 percent), 18-34 (37 percent), over 34 (48 percent)

Councilmember name and phone number: Fifth District Councilman Darrell Clarke, 215-686-3442

Police district and phone number: Ninth District, 215-686-3090

Biggest crime problem: Car break-ins are a neighborhood scourge.

Most famous landmark: Eastern State Penitentiary

Brief neighborhood history: Named for the hill atop which the Art Museum stands, this longtime blue-collar nook has undergone a renaissance of sorts thanks to skyrocketing property values. (Just don't tell the locals they live in the Art Museum neighborhood, yuppie.) Fairmount Avenue, the neighborhood's main drag, was originally called New Hickory Lane.

FISHTOWN

Nightlife: There are several corner dive bars, but the neighborhood remains quiet and family-oriented. Standard Tap is buying Johnny Brenda's bar at Girard and Frankford with plans to renovate and re-open this year. People go to nearby Northern Liberties for bars and restaurants or Delaware Avenue for clubbing.

Recreation: Penn Treaty Park for biking, walking, jogging and softball games. Fishtown Recreation Center offers classes in swimming, basketball, baseball, football, hockey, martial arts, gymnastics and tumbling. There are several community gardens with free mulch and compost available at the Community Garden Center at Frankford and Berks streets.

Culture: You can wander around a sculpture garden on Frankford Avenue and Mercer Street. The local artists' collective, Positive Space, has occasional exhibits. Free movie nights with Scribe Video Center will begin soon at Konrad Square.

SEPTA: The Market-Frankford El line has four stops: Girard, Berks, York-Dauphin and Huntingdon. Bus routes are 3, 5, 15, 25 and 39.

Parking: Street parking is free and usually plentiful.

Housing stock: 48 percent rentals; 59 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 16,526; 32 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (27 percent), 18-34 (25 percent), over 34 (48 percent)

Councilmember names and phone numbers: Fifth District Councilman Darrell Clarke, 215-686-3442; First District Councilman Frank DiCicco, 215-686-3458

Police district and phone number: 26th District, 215-686-3260

Biggest crime problem: The widely publicized Sweeney case notwithstanding, aggravated assaults and car thefts rank high in the 26th.

Most famous landmarks: Penn Treaty Park and Kensington Soup Company

Brief neighborhood history: Philly lore likes to boast that Fishtown was named by Charles Dickens in 1842 when he visited Eastern State Penitentiary and was taken for a tour around the city. But Sue Sierra, local historian and executive director of the New Kensington Community Development Cooperation, calls the story "bogus." She believes the neighborhood's name was derived earlier than Dickens' visit, more likely from the area's reputation as a fishing village on the shores of the Delaware. Back in 1730, Anthony Palmer, an English sea captain, bought 600 acres of land in the Fishtown area and several shipyards thrived there. William Penn's statue atop City Hall faces Penn Treaty Park, where he met with local Indians in 1682 to ask, "Can't we all just get along?" in spite of the fact the Europeans planted themselves on land the Indians had lived on for centuries.

GERMANTOWN

Nightlife: Numerous bars and restaurants on Germantown Avenue, including the Rib Crib and the Walnut Hill Inn.

Recreation: Walking, jogging and bicycling distance to the Wissahickon Creek and Fairmount Park, particularly the bicycle path and historic Rittenhouse Town.

Culture: Deshler-Morris House, Ebenezer Maxwell Mansion

SEPTA: Bus routes 23, 26, 53, 65, H (and XH), J and K and R7 and R8 regional rail.

Parking: Largely on-street parking, mostly free except along Germantown Avenue, which is metered. Some lots.

Housing stock: 64 percent rentals; 86 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 48,319; 28 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (28 percent), 18-34 (23 percent), over 34 (49 percent)

Councilmember name and phone number: Eighth District Councilwoman Donna Reed Miller, 215-686-3424

Police districts and phone numbers: 14th District, 215-686-3140; 39th District, 215-686-3390

Biggest crime problem: These districts have the unenviable status as the second highest areas for rape in the city.

Most famous landmark: The old Town Hall

Brief neighborhood history: Germantown, which once encompassed all of the northwest portion of Philadelphia, was one of the city's first recognized neighborhoods, initially identified in 1683. The neighborhood was also the site of a number of Revolutionary War skirmishes and, of course, the Battle of Germantown, wherein the redcoats kicked the original George Dubya's colonial keister.

MANAYUNK/ROXBOROUGH

Nightlife: Weary Main Street shoppers can settle in at one of dozens of upscale restaurants, many with outdoor cafés, or squeeze their way into popular nightclubs like the River Deck, Flat Rock Saloon or Grape Street Pub. Roxborough is a font of out-of-the-way bars and dives at which to escape the yuppie madness that is Manayunk. Try Union Jack's, Dawson Street Pub or Farley's for bar culture, or the romantic Valley Green Inn for dinner in the woods.

Recreation: Bicycle along the towpath adjacent to the historic Manayunk Canal. A nice day trip will take bikers from Kelly Drive through Manayunk to Conshohocken and Valley Forge. Get back to nature and hike the trails of Valley Green or picnic along the Wissahickon Creek at the Andorra Natural Area, where you'll see woodpeckers, chickadees and deer. Roxborough's Gorgas Park hosts an annual Harvest Festival and Christmas caroling, and kids' sporting events at local rec centers are always big draws.

Culture: Main Street becomes a pedestrian promenade during the annual Manayunk Arts Festival, Canal Day, Indian Summer Festival and other special events. On a quieter scale, North Light Community Center sponsors arts and crafts classes for kids of all ages, and for nearly 20 years, the North Light Players have produced community shows like Gypsy. Brass quartets and polka bands perform in Pretzel Park every summer.

SEPTA: The R6 regional rail line is the best route, running from Center City and West Philly, with the Wissahickon and Manayunk stops servicing the area. The route 61 bus also runs from Center City to Manayunk, while routes 9, 65, 32, 35 and 27 run through Roxborough.

Parking: Driving in Manayunk poses some challenges, especially parallel parking on those nasty hills and narrow streets. But there's metered parking and lots and valet service at night. Check with the shops along Main Street for validation stickers available with purchase. A questionably named promotion, 4Play in Manayunk, allows visitors $4 parking and $4 food and drink specials every Wednesday night during the summer. Roxborough's quasi-suburban streets make things a little easier.

Housing stock: Manayunk: 43 percent rental, 60 percent rowhomes; Roxborough: 37 percent rental, 23 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 29,706; 21 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (18 percent), 18-34 (30 percent), over 34 (52 percent)

Councilmember name and phone number: Fourth District Councilman Michael Nutter, 215-686-3416

Police district and phone number: Fifth District, 215-686-3050

Biggest crime problem: Relatively low in crime with quality-of-life concerns from Main Street bars at night rankling many.

Most famous landmarks: The Manayunk Wall, up which more than 100 cyclists climb each year during the USPRO Championship, and along which hundreds more spectators gather to eat, drink and ogle. Roxborough is home to the city's oldest schoolhouse (1812), on Wises Mill Road and Shawmont Avenue.

Brief neighborhood history: The little mill town of Manayunk was once known as Flat Rock, until those flat rocks were submerged by the mighty Schuylkill; Greek revivalists wanted to call it Udoravia ("place by the water"). They settled on "Manayunk," which comes from a Lenape Indian word meaning "where we go to drink" (that's water, you sots). Manayunk was once filled with textile mills, where Civil War uniforms and wool blankets were manufactured. No one now living would recall this, but according to John Johnstone at the Roxborough-Manayunk-Wissahickon Historical Society, a religious sect called the "Ridge Hermits" made Roxborough their home; "Kelpius the Mystic" lived in a one-room house dating to 1695 that still stands deep in the woods of Wissahickon Park. Visit at your peril.

MT. AIRY

Nightlife: There is a burgeoning restaurant boomlet going on, with the recent addition of Anglesea's, an Irish bar, joining The Cresheim Cottage Cafe, McMeniman's, The Trolley Car Diner, Umbria, North by Northwest and InFusion. There is live music at North by Northwest, Anglesea, InFusion and the Sedgwick Cultural Arts Center, which also has dance and theatrical performances as well as art exhibits.

Recreation: Walking, jogging and bicycling distance to Carpenter Woods, the Wissahickon Creek and Fairmount Park.

Culture: Sedgwick Cultural Center, Allens Lane Arts Center

SEPTA: Bus routes 18, 23, 26, 53, H and (XH) and K and regional rail routes R7 and R8.

Parking: Largely on-street and mostly free, except for metered parking along Germantown Avenue.

Housing stock: East Mt. Airy: 43 percent rentals, 38 percent rowhomes; West Mt. Airy: 43 percent rentals, 22 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 27,540; 27 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (22 percent), 18-34 (20 percent), over 34 (58 percent)

Councilmember name and phone number: Eighth District Councilwoman Donna Reed Miller, 215-686-3424

Police district and phone number: 14th District, 215-686-3140

Biggest crime problem: This area has the second highest auto-theft rate among police districts, and tops everybody when it comes to burglary cases.

Most famous landmarks: Germantown Home, the Johnson House, Awbury Arboretum and Cliveden

Brief neighborhood history: "During colonial times, this area was farmland and considered the suburbs of the city," according to the West Mt. Airy Neighborhood Association, "so the wealthy city residents retired here during the summer months." As a result, there are many large homes from the 18th and 19th centuries throughout the area. The building which houses The Cresheim Cottage Cafe is dated at around 1748.

NORTHEAST PHILLY

Nightlife: It's easy to carve a neighborhood-pub niche up in the Northeast, as corner watering holes are plentiful. They include the Blarney on Oxford Avenue, the Red Rooster on Dungan and the Veree Tavern on Veree. Jillian's, the billiard-themed national chain, has a spot at Frankin Mills and everybody already knows about Chickie's & Pete's.

Recreation: The Pennypack, Wissinoming or Tacony (pronounced Ta-CO-Nee by the natives or Ta-Ka-Nee by the rest of Philly) Creek parks are good for afternoon strolls, but the Northeast is full of playgrounds and recreation centers. Batting cages and driving range at Burholme Park are all-age hangouts and Fox Chase Farm is a good place to show city kids that there's more to life than traffic jams and tract housing.

Culture: Though it's never confused as a cultural hub, there are some overlooked attractions including the Ryerss, Knowlton and Glen Foerd, three Victorian mansions that are open for tours.

SEPTA: A plethora of bus routes, including the 1, 8, 14, 18, 19, 20, 24, 28, 58, 59, 66, 67, 70, 77, 84, 88, 127 and 130. Also, the R7 cuts through the Northeast on its way to Trenton.

Parking: Lower population density means few parking problems. There's lots of room to park in streets and most of the rental developments in the area are equipped with spacious parking lots.

Housing stock: 31 percent rentals; 37 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 365,800; 29 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (23 percent), 18-34 (23 percent), over 34 (54 percent)

Councilmember names and phone numbers: Sixth District Councilwoman Joan Krajewski, 215-686-3444; Seventh District Councilman Richard Mariano, 215-686-3448; 10th District Councilman Brian O'Neill, 215-686-3422

Police districts and phone numbers: Second District, 215-686-3020; Seventh District, 215-686-3070; Eighth District, 215-686-3080; 15th District, 215-686-3150

Biggest crime problem: The 15th District had the most reports of theft in the city in 2002.

Most famous landmarks: Franklin Mills Mall, Tacony-Palmyra Bridge

Brief neighborhood history: Before William Penn's arrival, the present-day neighborhood was a colony called Tacony inhabited by Swedish farmers and the Lenni-Lenape Indians. The Northeast grew throughout the late 19th century as a terminus of the rail line that connected Philadelphia to Trenton.

NORTHERN LIBERTIES

Nightlife: An embarrassment of bars and restaurants, most of them switch-hitters. The Standard Tap and 700 Club are the reigning bar champs, but The Ministry of Information is itching for a shot at the title. The Philly Bar offers a (semi-)respite from hipster saturation. Las Cazuelas has the city's best Mexican, while the pricey-but-worth-it Pigalle partakes of a Continental flavor. And everybody, but everybody, serves brunch, although in another of the bizarre absences that characterize the neighborhood, it's virtually impossible to eat before 11 on Sunday -- which is why Silk City Diner still holds a place in our hearts.

Recreation: Slim pickings, but check out the public fields and tennis courts at Seventh and Poplar or pump up at Ironworks II.

Culture: Rock out at The Fire, catch a show at the Triangle Theater or local flicks in N. 3rd's back room. Check out the comics and culture at Tin Man Alley. Or, just ask your neighbor if you can poke around her studio.

SEPTA: Several buses run here, including the 15 on Girard, the 43 on Spring Garden, the 47 (up Seventh and down Eighth) and the 57 (up Third and down Fourth). A trolley line is currently under construction along Girard, and the Market-Frankford line makes two stops in the neighborhood.

Parking: Park on the sidewalk, up a tree: The PPA doesn't seem to know this place exists.

Housing stock: 48 percent rentals; 59 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 1,783; 12 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (13 percent), 18-34 (40 percent), over 34 (47 percent)

Councilmember name and phone number: First District Councilman Frank DiCicco, 215-686-3458

Police districts and phone numbers: Sixth District, 215-686-3060; 26th District, 215-686-3260

Biggest crime problem: On the line between rough and relatively safe districts, the recent "bashing" robbery spree had residents looking over their shoulders.

Most famous landmarks: The crumbling ruins of the old Ortlieb's brewery, though the statue of Don Quixote at Front and Girard (a gift from Ciudad Réal) is ripe for discovery.

Brief neighborhood history: Still in transition from working-class neighborhood to artist's paradise to boho mecca, Northern Liberties offers a fascinating, if fragile, mix of races, classes and cultures, though long-term residents are starting to cash out while housing prices (and rents) continue to rise.

OAK LANE/WEST OAK LANE

Nightlife: Nightlife is not the strong point of this residential area. Aside from a few local drinking holes, Oak Lane sleeps at night.

Recreation: Numerous playgrounds and rec centers, including Simons Recreation Center at 1601 E. Walnut Ln. and Lonnie Young at 1100 E. Chelten Ave.

Culture: La Salle University

SEPTA: The Fern Rock and Olney terminals give residents access to the Broad Street subway, regional rail and bus routes 6, 8, 18, 22, 23, 26, 28, 55, 57, 70, 80, H, K, L and XH.

Parking: Free on residential streets.

Housing stock: Oak Lane: 43 percent rentals, 48 percent rowhomes; West Oak Lane: 18 percent rentals, 86 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 83,128; 28 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (25 percent), 18-34 (23 percent), over 34 (52 percent)

Councilmember names and phone numbers: Ninth District Councilwoman Marian Tasco, 215-686-3454; Eighth District Councilwoman Donna Reed Miller, 215-686-3424

Police districts and phone numbers: 35th District, 215-686-3350; 14th District, 215-686-3140

Biggest crime problem: The 35th has the city's largest robbery and auto-theft numbers. It's second in aggravated assaults and burglaries.

Most famous landmark: Oak Lane Diner

Brief neighborhood history: Most of the area that is now Oak Lane was incorporated in 1854, along with Germantown and other areas on the periphery of Center City, but much of it was undeveloped land. Oak Lane as a community was developed in the 1870s with the construction of its characteristic rowhome housing stock.

OLD CITY

Nightlife: From hoity-toity restaurants including Fork, Novelty and Stephen Starr venues Buddakan, The Continental and Tangerine, diverse small places such as La Locanda del Ghiottone and music venues such as The Khyber, the Ritz movie theaters and burlesque-boîte Five Spot to friendly drinking holes like Race St. Café and Anthony's, the streets of Old City are almost exclusively populated with an ever-changing array of hangouts.

Recreation: Walking -- or ambling -- everywhere will become your accidental pastime. Independence Park, behind Carpenter’s Hall, doesn’t offer an enormous green expanse, but can accommodate Frisbee games.

Culture: National Constitution Center, African-American Museum of Philadelphia, Arden Theatre Co., Philadelphia Fringe Festival, First Friday (monthly event featuring exhibits by countless galleries)

SEPTA: Let's mention walking again: Center City is mostly within reach. SEPTA's Market-Frankford line will help you reach points north and west. The Market/Franford El stops at Second and Fifth streets and numerous bus lines, including the 17, 21, 33, 38 and 48, service the neighborhood, so it's easy to get just about anywhere.

Parking: Street spots are basically impossible, thus relegating visitors to the world of parking-garage gouging. Lots around apartment complexes, however, are available to residents and there's some permit parking.

Housing stock: 71 percent rentals; 26 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 2,650; 3 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (3 percent), 18-34 (54 percent), over 34 (43 percent)

Councilmember name and phone number: First District Councilman Frank DiCicco, 215-686-3458

Police district and phone number: Sixth District, 215-686-3060

Biggest crime problem: Since the weekend Jersey influx remains legal, locals worry about theft -- and the occasional street fight -- more than anything else.

Most famous landmarks: Liberty Bell, Independence Hall

Brief neighborhood history: The first footprint of the city at its founding in 1701, Old City and its neighboring Penn's Landing quickly developed into a commercial district; latterly, it regroomed itself as a neighborhood of artists who, even more recently, have been priced out by escalating rents. Benjamin Franklin is buried at the Christ Church cemetery located at Fifth and Arch (formerly Mulberry St.) -- which, at its creation, was considered to be in the "suburbs" of the city.

PORT RICHMOND

Nightlife: If you're looking for swanky, you won't find it in this gritty province. You will find, however, the world-famous Tacconelli's Pizzeria and the popular Byrne's Tavern, not to mention countless corner bars, delis and pizzerias.

Recreation: Various playgrounds and rec centers are around. Stokley playground (Thompson St. and Indiana Ave.) hosts the annual Eddie Lynch Basketball tournament. Another softball and basketball tournament is held in memory of Sean Daily, the murdered son of a local police officer, at Cohox Field (Cedar and Cambria sts.).

Culture: The International Festival is held each October on Richmond Street. The large community event features different national foods and customs as presented by residents showcasing the neighborhood's diverse cultural background.

SEPTA: Several bus routes -- the 15, 25 and 60 -- have stops that will take you anywhere. Also, the Market-Frankford El makes a stop at Kensington Avenue.

Parking: All free.

Housing stock: 30 percent rentals; 82 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 15,445; 26 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (23 percent), 18-34 (22 percent), over 34 (55 percent)

Councilmember names and phone numbers: Seventh District Councilman Richard Mariano, 215-686-3448; First District Councilman Frank DiCicco, 215-686-3458

Police district and phone number: 24th District, 215-686-3241

Biggest crime problem: The 24th has the second highest robbery rate and ranks third in rape, burglary and auto thefts.

Most famous landmarks: Multiple church steeples paint the neighborhood's skyline.

Brief neighborhood history: Before 1800, west of King's Highway was land deeded by William Penn himself. During the World Wars, shipbuilding greatly influenced the neighborhood's economy, attracting immigrants from all different ethnic backgrounds. These early residents adhered tightly to their religion and heritage, thus explaining the several different high-rise churches and family-owned businesses in the community.

QUEEN VILLAGE

Nightlife: Watch cool Jersey kids cruise South Street from the balcony at Fat Tuesday's, or go for something a little more local, such as drinks at any number of smaller places like the New Wave Café or O'Neal's. Enjoy virtually any kind of cuisine, from Thai (Tamarind) to Italian (Il Villagio) to eclectic (Bridget Foy's, Judy's), plus a ton of tiny BYOBs like Dmitri's, Tartine and Gnocchi. Catch a show at The TLA or just rent a movie at TLA Video -- either way, stop first for a Jim's cheesesteak.

Recreation: Queen Village loves dogs -- head to Mario Lanza park or just stroll around the neighborhood and find neighbors chatting while their pooches play. Take a walk by the river at Penn's Landing or shop on Fabric Row, a textile-industry hot spot for the past century.

Culture: Settlement Music School, The Shubin Theatre

SEPTA: The 57 bus goes up Third Street and down Fourth Street.

Parking: There are some free spots, mostly on Third. Resident parking permits needed on several streets. Meters on South Street.

Housing stock: 39 percent rentals; 82 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 4,577; 12 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (13 percent), 18-34 (34 percent), over 34 (53 percent)

Councilmember name and phone number: First District Councilman Frank DiCicco, 215-686-3458

Police district and phone number: Third District, 215-686-3030

Biggest crime problem: Relatively low crime numbers 'round here. Except on Fat Tuesday.

Most famous landmarks: The Sparks' Shot Tower, between Christian and Carpenter streets and Front and Second streets. Built in 1808, it made ammunition for the War of 1812, and now it's one of only three remaining in the country. Also, the neighborhood boasts the oldest church in Pennsylvania, Old Swedes', which celebrated its 300th anniversary in 2000.

Brief neighborhood history: Philadelphia's oldest continuously inhabited neighborhood was settled by the Swedes in the 1600s and originally named Wicaco, an Indian tribal word meaning "peaceful place." William Penn later changed the name to Southwark. Principal development took place in the 18th century. Southwark did not officially become part of Philly until 1854. In 1965 the name was changed to Queen Village (mostly a marketing ploy to separate the area from the neighboring Southwark housing project) to pay homage to the Swedish Queen Christina, for whom Christian and Queen streets are also named.

RITTENHOUSE SQUARE

Nightlife: Bar Noir, Bleu, Loie, Magazine, Rouge and the list goes on and on. If that's not your scene, anti-hipster, go give Pat Burrell batting tips down at the Irish Pub. The eating scene is divine as well. It's not a matter of finding something to do. It's deciding what you feel like doing that night.

Recreation: The park around which the square itself runs offers the quintessential meeting place.

Culture: The Kimmel Center's not far. Neither are the theaters on and around the Avenue of the Arts. It's not quite Old City on First Friday, but there's an ample number of art galleries.

SEPTA: There's easy access to every train, trolley and bus imaginable.

Parking: If you're rich enough to live there, it's not a concern. But if permit parking on the street is too bourgie, monthly parking-garage rates range from around $140 to $300.

Housing stock: 69 percent rentals; 29 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 11,025; 3 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (4 percent), 18-34 (52 percent), over 34 (44 percent)

Councilmember name and phone number: Fifth District Councilman Darrell Clarke, 215-686-3442

Police district and phone number: Ninth District, 215-686-3090

Biggest crime problem: A well-protected enclave, theft seems to be the biggest problem. Most publicized? Neil Stein's tax and pill "issues."

Most famous landmark: The whole place.

Brief neighborhood history: One of the original five squares in William Penn's master plan, it was known as Southwest Square until it was renamed in 1825 to honor David Rittenhouse, the first director of the U.S. Mint and onetime president of the American Philosophical Society.

SOCIETY HILL

Nightlife: Headhouse Square with Artful Dodger and the Dark Horse pub is right there. It's also within walking distance of both South Street and Old City.

Recreation: Penn¹s Landing, Independence Historical Park

Culture: Independence Seaport Museum. If historic isn't enough culture for you, there are always the Old City galleries.

SEPTA: Bus routes 12, 33 and 40 all run nearby.

Parking: Get your permit out. Not much comes for free around here.

Housing stock: 71 percent rentals; 26 percent rowhomes (statistics for Center City, east of Broad)

Who lives there: Population 25,597;

12 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (12 percent), 18-34 (37 percent), over 34 (51 percent)

Councilmember name and phone number: First District Councilman Frank DiCicco, 215-686-3458

Police district and phone number: Sixth District, 215-686-3060

Biggest crime problem: See Old City.

Most famous landmark: The Society Hill Towers, which celebrated their 40th anniversary last night with a party for the renowned architect I.M. Pei.

Brief neighborhood history: William Penn sailed up the Delaware and landed here. After settlement, it became a shipping hub. And there's also those little incidents surrounding a nation's birth that happened a matter of blocks away.

SOUTH PHILLY

Nightlife: Looking for action any night of the week? Head to South Street, the block where South Philadelphia begins. Between Sixth and 27th streets -- technically South Philly, as the Queen Village folks stake claim to Fifth -- the neighborhood offers an array of popular watering holes. You'll find Bob and Barbara's (with its $3 special and the institutional Nate Wiley and the Crowd Pleasers), Tritone (featuring eclectic live music and inexpensive late-night fare), The Jamaican Jerk Hut (spicy grub served up in a tree-filled outdoor dining room) and Ten Stone, the area's newest bar/restaurant/poolroom hangout. At Victor Café (1303 Dickinson St.), you'll even find singing waiters. There are a handful of Vietnamese restaurants and Southeast Asian supermarkets in the area, and, of course, delicious Old World Italian bakeries tucked away on the tiny South Philly blocks. And, 24-7 (except Christmas and New Year's Eve), you can get bona fide, award-winning Philly cheesesteaks at Pat's King of Steaks or Geno's, both on Passyunk Avenue.

Recreation: South Philly is home to Veterans Stadium (for now), First Union Center and First Union Spectrum. It has dozens of neighborhood ballparks for football, baseball and soccer; centers offering indoor and outdoor pools, tennis, basketball and hockey courts and the venerable Christian Street YMCA.

Culture: Mario Lanza Museum, Marian Anderson Residence/Museum, Mummers Museum

SEPTA: In addition to the Broad Street subway (orange line), which travels along Broad from Pattison Avenue to Fern Rock, over a dozen bus routes service the area, including the 2, 7, 12, 17, 23, 29, 40, 47, 57, 63, 64, 79, C and G.

Parking: Mostly free, on-street parking, but in some neighborhoods, permits are required. Still, just park in the middle of Broad if you so desire.

Housing stock: 31 percent rentals; 93 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 86,697; 27 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (25 percent), 18-34 (26 percent), over 34 (49 percent)

Councilmember names and phone numbers: First District Councilman Frank DiCicco, 215-686-3458; Second District Councilwoman Anna Verna, 215-686-3412

Police districts and phone numbers: Fourth District, 215-686-3040/3041; 17th District, 215-686-3170

Biggest crime problem: Now that Skinny Joey's safely behind bars, South Philly has low crime statistics when compared to the city's rougher nooks. Though it had more murders in 2002 than many areas (17), the rest of the numbers are passable.

Most famous landmarks: Mummers Museum, Philadelphia Naval Yard

Brief neighborhood history: Simply defined, South Philly is comprised of over a dozen neighborhoods, including Bella Vista, East Oregon, Grays Ferry, Hawthorne, Packer Park, Passyunk, Point Breeze, Southwest Center City, Tasker and Southwark, the oldest district in all Philadelphia. Originally settled by the Dutch and Swedes in the 17th century, Jewish and Italian immigrants settled here in the 19th century. In the last 100 years, African Americans, Hispanics and Asians have also made it home. A recent development boom has increased property values in this area by approximately 45 percent since 1996. South Philadelphia is considered the city's "Little Italy" because of its world-famous Italian Market and the large Italian-American population that has been living in the area for centuries. The 1976 movie, Rocky, put South Philly on the map with its authentic neighborhood scenes. Today, a mural at Eighth and Montrose streets titled Rocky's Gym memorializes the fictional boxer.

SOUTHWEST PHILLY

Nightlife: The area¹s numerous bars and restaurants reflect neighborhood diversity, including Abby¹s Desert Lounge, Dahlak, Gojjo and The Carrot Cake Man. More adult nighttime diversions can be found at the Purple Orchid gentlemen¹s club.

Recreation: Clark Park offers volleyball and Frisbee games as well as concerts, community fairs and the famous Clark Park Farmers' Market. Kingsessing, 48th Street and Myers playgrounds have regular and pickup basketball, football and baseball games.

Culture: The universities aren't far.

SEPTA: The 11, 13, 34 and 36 trolleys run from the neighborhood directly to Center City. Bus routes G, 52 and 64 connect with the Market-Frankford line and West Philly.

Parking: Usually catch-as-catch-can street parking, with a city-owned lot off Baltimore Avenue at 47th. Penrose Plaza shopping center offers plenty of free parking.

Housing stock: 33 percent rentals; 85 percent rowhomes

A neighborhood gem: Culture in Mt. Airy revolves around the Sedgwick. Photo By Michael T. Regan

Who lives there: Population 83,445; 33 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (30 percent), 18-34 (26 percent), over 34 (44 percent)

Councilmember names and phone numbers: Second District Councilwoman Anna Verna, 215-686-3412; Third District Councilwoman Jannie Blackwell, 215-686-3418

Police district and phone number: 12th District, 215-686-3120

Biggest crime problem: Looking for trouble? You got it. The 12th has the highest murder, rape and aggravated assault rates in the city.

Most famous landmarks: Statue of Charles Dickens in Clark Park, Golden Dome of St. Francis de Sales Church, Philadelphia International Airport, Heinz Wildlife Refuge, Fort Mifflin

Brief neighborhood history: Generally recognized as that neighborhood south of Baltimore Avenue from University City to the airport, its communities go by names like Kingsessing, Eastwick, Paschall, Mount Moriah and Bartram Village. From 1990 to 2000, the non-English-speaking population rose from 7 to 16 percent, most of those languages and people from South Asia.

WEST PHILLY

Nightlife: Hanging with the college crowd doesn¹t cut it anymore? There are numerous neighborhood bars, like Casbar Lounge and Cavallis Tavern, with its display of antique swords. The Queen of Sheba II Pub on Baltimore Avenue also ranks among the under-appreciated spots that give a diverse feel. There¹s a wide variety of restaurants, with some of the best international food in town.

Recreation: With 23 playgrounds, 13 swimming pools, 22 parks and nearby Cobbs Creek Park and Skating House, there is no shortage of things to do.

Culture: The Mann Center for the Performing Arts, Community Gardens, the Zoo

SEPTA: 30th Street Station gives access to every SEPTA rail route imaginable, while bus routes 21, 30, 31, 42, 46 and 52 run right through the neighborhood.

Parking: Some streets are free, but much of the neighborhood require a permit.

Housing stock: 42 percent rentals; 59 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 195,735; 25 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (24 percent), 18-34 (31 percent), over 34 (45 percent)

Councilmember names and phone numbers: Third District Councilwoman Jannie Blackwell, 215-686-3418; Fourth District Councilman Michael Nutter, 215-686-3416

Police districts and phone numbers: 16th District, 215-686-3160; 19th District, 215-686-3190

Biggest crime problem: Be careful. West Philly has the city's third highest homicide rate per capita.

Most famous landmarks: The 52nd Street shopping corridor, Squirrel Hill Park, Koch's Deli (44th and Locust)

Brief neighborhood history: West Philadelphia hosted the Centennial Exposition, the nation's first World's Fair, in 1876.

YORKTOWN

Nightlife: Aside from the Blue Horizon, Yorktown is expecting an increase in nocturnal activity with the addition of a Sony/Magic Johnson movie theater, slated to open in 2004.

Recreation: Area playgrounds and basketball courts.

Culture: Freedom Theatre and easy access to Temple University's Esther Boyer Theater and Liacouras Center.

SEPTA: The Broad Street line can be accessed at Cecil B. Moore Station in the north and Girard Avenue in the south. All regional rail lines run through Temple University Station.

Parking: Free along residential streets with metered parking during working hours on main arteries.

Housing stock: 73 percent rentals; 39 percent rowhomes

Who lives there: Population 3,217; 31 percent of households have children; under 18 years old (30 percent), 18-34 (24 percent), over 34 (46 percent)

Councilmember name and phone number: Fifth District Councilman Darrell Clarke, 215-686-3442

Police district and phone number: 23rd District, 215-686-3230

Biggest crime problem: Though North Philly tends to get an across-the-board bad rep -- um, Gary Heidnik? -- this neighborhood remains buffered to a certain extent.

Most famous landmark: Freedom Theatre

Brief neighborhood history: The product of an ambitious urban renewal project from the '60s, Yorktown was designed to be an "inner-city suburb" and attracted middle-class African-American home buyers. It evolved into a natural retirement community over the past four decades and is Mayor John Street's home turf.

LA SALLE UNIVERSITY

The Brother Augustine Center for Off-Campus and Commuter Students can provide Explorers with lists of landlords renting homes near campus (215-424-7570). Most students live within spitting distance of the Olney campus.

Nightlife: Nightlife is scarce in this mostly residential section of Oak Lane, but shuttles to Old City, South Street, Manayunk are available.

Recreation: Wetzler Track and Hayman Hall athletic facility are open to students. The latter has a pool, weight room and a trio of basketball courts.

Culture: With nearly 150 years of Catholic academic tradition, La Salle is a cultural institution unto itself. The university's small art museum is a cheap and pleasant diversion.

SEPTA: The 18 and 26 bus routes bisect the campus. It's two blocks away from the Olney Terminal, with access to the Broad Street subway and several other bus routes, including the C, L, 55 and 22.

Parking: With limited space on the street, a permit may be necessary.

Councilmember name and phone number: Eighth District Councilwoman Donna Reed Miller, 215-686-3424

Police district and phone number: 35th District, 215-686-3350

Most famous landmark: The Explorers Den

Brief neighborhood history: This university has been a Philadelphia institution since 1863, when it was founded by the Christian Brothers. Contrary to popular belief, the school is named after Saint John Baptist de La Salle and not the North American explorer named La Salle. The school prides itself on its ability to sustain its original Catholic values and maintain an open environment to people of all faiths.

ST. JOSEPH’S

For help finding off-campus housing, many students turn to room 229 in the Campion Student Center, where Denys Davis works with apartment managers and property owners to help students find housing, roommates and advice on dealing with landlord-tenant issues. (The contact number is 610-660-1003.) Most off-campus students live within three miles in nearby Wynnefield, Wynnefield Heights and Overbrook Farms.

Nightlife: Some "mature" students frequent Brownie's 23 East, conveniently located across the street from campus. Many head down to Main Street in Manayunk.

Recreation: 20 different varsity sports (10 men¹s, 10 women¹s) NCAA Division 1 Atlantic 10 conference, as well as 31 intramural sports and recreational activities. Nearby, there¹s a botanical garden with jogging paths. Kelly Drive isn¹t too far.

Culture: You're on a college campus: Check out a calendar of events already.

SEPTA: Bus routes 52, 65, 44, 1 and G all make stops near or at City Ave. and 54th St.

Parking: Resident freshmen are not allowed cars on campus. A parking pass for all other resident students is $150 annually and $90 for commuters. Those visiting for admissions purposes get a free-parking decal; all other visitors pay a dollar a day to park. Free on-street parking in surrounding neighborhood.

Councilmember name and phone number: Fourth District Councilman Michael Nutter, 215-686-3416

Police districts and phone numbers: The off-campus community is scattered between the Fifth District in Manayunk and Roxborough (215-686-3050) and the 19th along City Line (215-686-3190). University public safety and security can be reached at 610-660-1111.

Most famous landmark: According to freshman orientation leader Kevin Kery, St. Joe's most famous landmark is Barbelin Bell Tower, the first building on campus.

Brief neighborhood history: Before the skyscrapers arrived, St. Joe's was situated on the city's highest natural point, "Hawk Hill," named for the hawks that circled here, thus appropriately giving way to the university's award-winning mascot.

TEMPLE UNIVERSITY- MAIN CAMPUS

Temple’s Office for University Housing is located at 1910 Liacouras Walk (215-204-3279). Most students living off campus choose Center City, Fairmount and University City.

Nightlife: Draught Horse Bar is a great place to stop after catching a show at the Liacouras Center, an Owls' game or a poetry reading. If that gets old, it's a short subway ride to Center City bars, theaters and nightclubs.

Recreation: Full-time students have free access to the Independence Blue Cross Student Recreation Center, the outdoor track and the pool at Pearson Hall.

Culture: Aside from the Esther Boyer Theater, WRTI radio station and the Liacouras, Temple University's diverse student population offers a number of student-based activities, performances and forums. (For more information, check out the events page at www.temple.edu.)

SEPTA: The Broad Street line can be accessed through Cecil B. Moore or Susquehanna-Dauphin stations. The 23 and C bus routes traverse the campus and any regional rail line can be caught at Temple University Station.

Parking: With limited street parking during the school year, it may be necessary to pay for parking. Part-time students may be interested in the debit system that allows students to pay per park at the rate of $3.50, but full-time commuters will have to dish out the $228 (residents, $240) per semester for guaranteed access.

Councilmember name and phone number: Fifth District Councilman Darrell Clarke, 215-686-3442

Police districts and phone numbers: Temple University Police, 215-204-1234; 22nd District, 215-686-3220; 23rd District, 215-686-3230

Most famous landmark: John Chaney

Brief neighborhood history: Founded in 1884 by orator Russell Conwell, who, after giving a speech urging potential philanthropists to find the "Acres of Diamonds" in our area, received millions of dollars to build the school. One of the most diverse campuses in the country, Temple has enveloped much of North Broad Street between Erie and Girard avenues.

University City (drexel AND penn)

Penn’s Office of Off-Campus Living is located at 4046 Walnut St. (215-898-8500). Its website, www.business-services.upenn.edu/offcampusliving, offers a wealth of information about rentals in the surrounding neighborhoods, including a confidential "Rate your Landlord" survey. Drexel’s off-campus housing office refers to the Penn website. Located at Creese 001, the phone number is 215-895-1328.

Nightlife: The quintessential college bar scene is alive and well in University City hot spots like Smokey Joe's and Cavanaugh's.

Recreation: Clark Park, UPenn skating rink and Pottruck Center, Drexel's Daskalakis Athletic Center

Culture: The Arthur Ross Gallery, Institute of Contemporary Art, Penn Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, Drexel Museum

SEPTA: LUCY runs a loop through University City; route 30 runs directly through University City. Easy access to 30th Street Station.

Parking: The majority of the neighborhood requires parking permits.

Councilmember name and phone number: Third District Counc