April 15-21, 2004

cover story

Buckle Up

by Patrick Rapa

Isn’t what we wear supposed to protect us? Like, in battle?

It’s a shame that suits of armor fell out of fashion. All we have left to guard the flesh and bone are our belt buckles. So we might as well make them count.

Designed and built by Seattle artist Erica Gordon, "Rosie" -- named after the WWII and feminist icon Rosie the Riveter -- is a handmade belt buckle of industrial strength and substance. Just look at the tools needed to create it: a gas forge, a swage block, forging hammers, a vice, a band saw, a small oxy-propane torch, pliers, pop riveter and so on. It surely has the fortitude to deflect a swinging mace or broadsword (assuming you jump pelvis-first into the fray).

"The buckle is made from steel that is domed while red hot, then the loop and prong are silver-soldered on and the holes are drilled," explains Gordon, a trained blacksmith and jeweler. "The two pieces are attached with pop rivets which are patinaed -- a chemical blackening process." Obviously Rosie won't make it through a metal detector without a fight.

"I paint and finish the piece to look as though it has been used in an industrial setting," says Gordon. The result is a solid flying saucer of colored, unshiny metal that looks like it was rescued from the wreckage of a long-forgotten contraption.

Rosie is smooth, and simple enough to be worn in both casual and classy settings. Its elegance is tempered by its overt functionality. "I love the way old machinery looks after it has been repainted and rusted and worn over time," she says. "This is a major inspiration for my work."

Gordon also makes leather belts by hand to go with her buckles. "A lot of my customers quickly remark on how the belt really hugs the waist, due to the thickness of the leather and the weight of the buckle," she says. "I believe that jewelry and accessories should be weighty enough that the wearer always is aware of their adornment. I feel more confident when I have a belt, boots and some rings on. The weight seems to give me a sense of protection."

Rosie goes for $110 at www.steeltoestudios.com.

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