Apamate was the inspiration of La Colombe alum Rebecca McGhee and Ane Ormaechea, a chef whose family is from northern Spain. They got the idea when they realized that no one in the city was serving the authentic, casual dishes Ormaechea grew up with.

The concept gels perfectly with the Graduate Hospital neighborhood, where Aussie Ants Pants and Israeli La Va have made South Street the United Nations of caffeinating. The pimento- and Seville orange-hued walls are welcoming, opening up into a garden patio. A glass case displays wedges of membrillo, wheels of Manchego cheese and a selection of the cured meats that grace so many of the dishes here.

At present, Apamate is open for BLE: breakfast, lunch and early dinner. Dinner is BYO, but you can order a sangria mix for $6. Appetizers include ham croquettes and sandwiches stuffed with sliced meats, roasted vegetables or oil-packed tuna. The chef's offering of pinchos, or slices of bread with different toppings, changes daily and McGhee says that they will introduce an expanded pinchos menu for dinner.

In the meantime, there are plenty of authentic treats for breakfast. Try the Tortilla Espanola, a creamy omelette with tender potatoes, onion and garlic, or a make your own omelette, which can be filled with cheese, Spanish ham, vegetables or buttery lomo (cured pork loin). On the side are peppery mixed greens with strawberries and a simple vinaigrette.

La Catalana con Jamon de mi Edgar "Pa amb tomaquet" is another authentic dish: A tomato and garlic rubbed baguette is covered with delicately folded Serrano ham and a drizzle of vibrant green olive oil. Wash it down with a limonada or a mini bottle of extra-sweet clementine juice.

Better yet, go for a hot beverage. There are three kinds of chocolate (Spanish, Mexican and American). The Spanish, while creamy and delicious, is a little lighter and thinner than the kind you find in Spain. It's served with or without an order of churros, ridged strips of dough that are fried and dusted with sugar. They're also available filled with cream and fruit, chocolate, dulce de leche or the spread of the gods (aka Nutella). For its expertly made coffees, Apamate gets a custom roast from Chicago-based Intelligentsia and it's excellent. Turns out no one else in Philly even uses the company. See? That's where they get you.

(e_ludwig@citypaper.net)

Apamate

Cash only. Wheelchair accessible. Smoking permitted on patio only. Reservations are accepted only for a party of six or more. BYOB.