Hot Fudge

Liz Begosh modernizes a classic boardwalk treat.

by Elisa Ludwig

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Published: Jul 10, 2007

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In the cyclical world of culinary trends, foods treated as footnotes are usually the ones poised for a comeback. Since its 19th-century inception at American women's colleges, fudge dominated community cookbooks and holiday gift exchanges. By the end of the last century, however, it seemed to drop out of popular favor. The decadent wedge of butter, milk and sugar was relegated to rare appearances � a vacation souvenir or a food court toothpick nibble. Even the name became embarrassing. Fudge needed a makeover, or it risked going the way of peanut brittle.

Enter Liz Begosh, a fudge- maker with an interesting backstory and a talent for marketing and reinvention. She studied industrial design at the Rhode Island School of Design, where she also won three national titles as a collegiate cyclist. Begosh competed professionally for four years after graduation, spinning through the Manayunk races annually. Satisfied with her accomplishments, she left the sport in 2005, settled in Philadelphia and began working at Manayunk's Cadence Performance Cycling Center.

In the meantime, Begosh also began to pursue a different passion: food. She explored Philadelphia's restaurants and developed her own skills in the kitchen. Her greatest inspiration came from her grandmother, Betty, who passed on her legendary fudge recipe to Begosh when she was 10 years old. Twenty-one years later, Begosh's decided to whip up this edible slice of family history into Betty's Tasty Buttons, which brings sophistication and the cachet of "specialty food" to fudge.

At the core of Betty's Tasty Buttons is Begosh's grandmother's recipe, which serves as a base for inventive new varieties. There's Balsamic, which incorporates tangy vinegar as a foil for the rich chocolate. Lava draws from a traditional Mexican combination of chocolate, fiery chipotles and cinnamon. One dreamy variety is made with fresh mint and lavender. In all, there are about 14 flavors. Every week, Begosh will produce five fudges from her repertoire, plus an "R&D" (research and development) flavor. This week's is "Steve's Hawaiian Dream," with toasted coconut and ginger.

If Begosh's renditions have anything on the boardwalk, it's sheer creativity. She gets most of her ideas from high-end chocolatiers or local restaurants. A recent licorice flavor, for instance, was inspired by a dessert at Rittenhouse's Snackbar. Sometimes, the most exotic flavors elicit the most positive responses. "I love seeing people's reactions," she says.

But the quality of her product relies not on the add-ins, but on the basics, Begosh says. The ingredients reflect an ethos of food consciousness: They're fair trade (Central American cacao beans), local (cream, butter, goat's milk and honey) and organic wherever possible. She shuns using corn syrup or boiling chocolate; the result is truer flavor and a more truffle-like texture.

Begosh's design background is clearly evident in her packaging and presentation. Rather than gooey blocks, the fudge is made into bite-size pieces. Tied up with brown string and a vintage button, the boxes depict a woman in an old-fashioned shirtdress talking to a young child, evoking both the business's name and the feminine history of fudge itself.

With the help of local coffee operation Mugshots, Betty's launched its retail business last spring. Begosh works out of Mugshots' Manayunk location, and the shop's coffee even makes a guest appearance in her Java fudge. Begosh produces about 40 pounds of fudge a week, and will eventually offer more through her Web site. For now, buyers can visit her at four area farmers markets � Headhouse Square, Fitler Square, Clark Park and Schuylkill River Park.

Is there any inherent contradiction in buying candy from a former pro athlete? Begosh says no. "I've spent many years reading labels, but I really believe that anything in moderation is good for you," she says. "Even if you eat all fruits and vegetables, sometimes you just need to treat yourself."

(e_ludwig@citypaper.net)

For more information, visit www.bettysfudge.com.

 

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