Reincarnation

New Delhi looks great at 20.

by Trey Popp

I don't remember the first time I walked past New Delhi Indian restaurant in West Philly. I don't remember the next dozen, either. There was never much to look at. The place advertised itself as the oldest Indian restaurant in town, and that's more or less how it appeared. The servers had a reputation for grumpiness. I didn't test them — I never went inside.

Then, one bright day this spring, the sight of 4004 Chestnut froze me midstep. The front wall had been replaced with glass from cement to ceiling. Inside, the paneled ceiling had been reconceived as an abstracted wave form whose peaks rose 3 feet higher than its troughs. In a homespun sort of way, it reminded me of the swooping surfaces of Rem Koolhaas's Prada store in Manhattan. Farther back, a gently winding passageway was clad in gleaming stainless steel, with nooks cut out for the occasional religious idol.

I had to ask whether this was the same place.

It is, in one sense — the smart renovation was occasioned by New Delhi's 20th anniversary. But the restaurant has been reincarnated. The sleek, playful new interior has become one of the neighborhood's most pleasant dining spots. And the staff? All smiles — if they'd ever been sour, their new surroundings have put an end to it.

Better yet, the lunch buffet proved its worth. The dishes are familiar, but the colors shine and the flavors pop. A creamy navratan korma is a kaleidoscope of green zucchini, orange carrots and pale broad beans swimming in a sunshine-yellow sauce. The meats are tender, there's a tangy sauce for the samosas and there's mango ice cream for dessert if the cashew-studded rice pudding doesn't tempt you — or even if it does.

And you know how most Indian buffets confine you to a tiny basket filled with a few pieces of naan, discouraging you from requesting more? Not here — the hot flatbread overflows from its own buffet tray. Yet the clincher is the deliciously sour mixed pickles offered in the same unlimited fashion.

Those surprises inspired me to order a few things a la carte — a shrimp biryani whose searing heat was offset by nuts and raisins, a mediocre lamb vindaloo — but each time I did, I only ended up jealous of the all-you-can-eaters. A cool shredded-coconut soup was a winner, and I appreciated being able to specify more heat, but it didn't make up for the missing pickles and free dessert.

Happy 20th, New Delhi, and bravo.

(t_popp@citypaper.net)

New Delhi | 4004 Chestnut St., 215-386-1941, newdelhiweb.com | Hours: Tue.-Thu., Sun., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; closed Monday | Appetizers, $2.50-$6.95; Entrées, $8.95-$13.95; Lunch buffet, $8.95 | Delivery available