Shared Blessings

Thanksgiving Dinner for the Homeless at Portofino

by Felicia D'Ambrosio

For more than 15 years, Ralph Berarducci has thrown open the doors of Portofino on Thanksgiving Day to feed the homeless.

But before he had that big restaurant at 12th and Walnut to welcome them into, he would ask local priests for the names of deserving people to whom he could deliver food for the holidays.

"I [would] say, 'Hey Father, give me 20 addresses,' and I used to deliver the turkey, the full package. Then I realize the priest sent me to their friend! These guys living better than me! Fifty percent was poor, 50 percent [were] his friends," booms Berarducci in his Italian staccato, miraculously holding no grudge. He began his Turkey Day feast tradition because he wanted to share his own good fortune with others.

"I believe in God too much not to do it," explains the Abruzzo native, quite devoid of self-importance. "One way to thank God for the blessings I have is to do something for people. I've been in America 40 years, and Thanksgiving is an important day. Everybody should have somewhere to go."

Berarducci is 72 this year, but possesses no trace of an old man's hesitancy or fatigue. Good thing: The scale of his Thanksgiving event would test even a young man's stamina and compassion.

The restaurateur and his staff served 700 people last year, and are preparing for 1,000 this holiday. Hundreds of pounds of turkey, stuffing, pies and traditional laden-table side dishes will be made from scratch in Portofino's kitchen. They open their doors at 12:30 p.m. and the dinner goes on until about 6 p.m., until the last bites are eaten.

At 2:30 p.m. last year, the line stretched for two blocks, and contained many people that Portofino serves every year. Though he's positive at least 600 regulars will show up, Berarducci is determined to spread the word to those who may not have heard about the dinner before.

Though never homeless himself, Berarducci found America a hard place to live when he first arrived more than 40 years ago.

But he never lost track of his innate concern for those who struggle. Goodwill bursts out of him, an open-handed and joyous trait that he definitely doesn't limit to the holiday season. "This is one way I thank God for the blessings I have — I have a life, I feel good and I want to do something," he says. "You can serve the Lord in many, many ways."

(felicia.dambrosio@citypaper.net)

Thanksgiving Dinner for the Homeless | Thu., Nov. 27, 12:30-6 p.m., Portofino, 1227 Walnut St., 215-923-8208, portofino1227walnut.com