Luck of the Draw

Lucky 13 Pub

by David Snyder

One of our most enduring superstitions is that the number 13 is unlucky. Longtime barkeep Clark Newman wasn't spooked by this when he named his Passyunk Avenue pub Lucky 13. For him, it's a matter of perspective. "Thirteen is lucky and unlucky," he reasoned in an interview. "I just wanted something old-school."

The name isn't the only thing about this narrow 55-seater that harkens back. The jukebox is filled with handpicked classics from Fugazi and The Cramps. A Galaga arcade game (I scored an embarrassing 28,750) doubles as a two-top.

Given the microscopic kitchen, chef Ben Johnson (Plough and the Stars) may be tempting fate with his oft-lofty grub. But for many of his dishes, the payout is greater than expected.

Take the Ace of Spades, a vegan sandwich named after the Motörhead anthem. As a lover of both flesh and metal, it's hard for me to equate a meatless dish with a song boasting an intro that Q magazine says, "wouldn't be out of place ushering in the end of the world." But after sampling the crisp, savory tempeh on rye with sprouts and caramelized onions, I was ready to bang my head.

I appreciated that Johnson paired a sausage and peppers app with a minty couscous, but it was the depth of flavor in his herbed tomato broth, along with the deliciously spicy merguez from D'Angelo Bros., that made this dish special. I liked the contrast of the rich tempura batter on the Mexican wild shrimp against the bitter orange zest in the glaze. Johnson deserves props not only for putting a sustainable seafood choice like bluefish on the menu, but also for taming its oily texture with a crispy cumin and coriander rub and a tangy puttanesca-style sauce.

But fate does catch up with Lucky 13 in certain spots. The crab cake, though flavorful, was unpleasantly watery. The mac and cheese was served in a Colorex bowl that kept the dish so hot, the locatelli and white cheddar never became more than a drippy soup. Colorex delivered a similar blow to the beef daube, Johnson's take on shepherd's pie, though the meat was tender and satisfying.

Some might argue that Lucky 13 should hang a horseshoe above the door or rub a rabbit's foot. But as long as it's pouring Kenzinger and playing the Ramones on the juke, it won't need these talismans. Knock on wood.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

Lucky 13 Pub | 1820 S. 13th St., 215-336-8467, lucky13pubphilly.com

Hours: Mon.-Fri., 4 p.m.-2 a.m.; Sat.-Sun., 11 a.m.-2 a.m.

Appetizers, $6-$10; Sandwiches, $9-$10; Entrées, $13