Adam Erace talks to Marshall Green about closing Cafe Estelle

Earlier today we caught wind that Cafe Estelle would be closing its doors at the end of September. Adam Erace sat down to talk to Chef/owner Marshall Green about five years in the brunch biz and what the future has to hold.

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Adam Erace talks to Marshall Green about closing Cafe Estelle

POSTED: Tuesday, August 28, 2012, 11:40 AM

Note: Earlier today we caught wind that Cafe Estelle would be closing its doors at the end of September. Adam Erace sat down to talk to Chef/owner Marshall Green about five years in the brunch biz and what the future has to hold.

The last day for Cafe Estelle, Philly's most beloved out-of-the-way brunch stop, is Sunday, September 30th. Chef/owner Marshall Green will be serving up five years of memories along with omelets and cinnamon buns.

"I've known this was going to happen for while, but I tried to keep it discreet, so I could let my staff and regulars know first," says Green, who informed his crew of the impending closure last weekend. "We've accomplished a lot, but as a business, we've never gotten to the break-even. Continuing here didn't make sense."

Green's five-year lease for the ground floor space in the 444 North 4th complex is nearly up. The location has been a challenge from go, and the building's recent repossession of the dedicated Cafe Estelle parking spaces hasn't helped. That said, it's a testament to Green's culinary prowess that he was able to recruit a loyal following while earning critic acclaim from the media. His strawberry-rhubarb pie would be my death-bed dessert. 

How is Green feeling about all this? "I described it to someone the other day like a 12-step program. I've gone through denial, anger and depression before you realize it's inevitable and you start to look forward to what's on the other side."

What's on the immediate other side is quality time with his wife, Amy, and a fishing trip to New Orleans with his dad. Then, "I don't know what I'm going to do next. I want to get away from cooking to order, I want to get away from tickets. I've been cooking on the line for 12 years without stopping and I want to take a break from that." Green mentions getting into a lower-stress side of the business (is there one?) like prepared foods, but at this point, it's all spitballing.

 

On Cafe Estelle's final day, expect everything-must-go deals. "We're going to have specials to use up all our inventory and make it a festival occasion," Green says. "Running out of food was what I'm used to stressing about. At least for one day, I don't have to worry."

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Founded in October 2008, Meal Ticket is a City Paper blog about food, drink and assorted other things that make you go mmm. We do recipes, interviews, restaurant news, commentary and much more. We don't do restaurant reviews herethose are handled in print, mostly by our critic (and Meal Ticket contributor) Adam Erace. Got a tip, question, thought or concern? Just want to say hello? Please shoot a note to caroline@citypaper.net.

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