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An Asian-American take on the Roundeye Noodle name
Last night, the second installment of Ben Puchowitz and Shawn Darragh's Roundeye Noodle Bar pop-up went down at Puchowitz's Matyson (37 S. 19th St.). The partners, who first rolled out the conceptual "hip noodle spot run by two guys from the suburbs" on Jan. 29, are getting close to signing an investor, with an eventual plan to land a permanent space in Center City. But don't be surprised if the Roundeye name is scrapped before that time.
An Asian-American take on the Roundeye Noodle name
Last night, the second installment of Ben Puchowitz and Shawn Darragh's Roundeye Noodle Bar pop-up went down at Puchowitz's Matyson (37 S. 19th St.). The partners, who first rolled out the conceptual "hip noodle spot run by two guys from the suburbs" on Jan. 29, are getting close to signing an investor, with an eventual plan to land a permanent space in Center City. But don't be surprised if the Roundeye name is scrapped before that time.
The reason? Local Asian advocates are publicly speaking out about the moniker's racial — and by some accounts racist — implications.
Yesterday morning, several hours before the pop-up kicked off, Helen Gym of Asian Americans United released a statement to press lambasting the Roundeye name. "If these self-named 'white boys' are the 'roundeye' noodle maker," Gym wrote, "what does that make the Asian noodle places they're modeling their place after? As a city notoriously home to Chink's Steaks, it's really a shame that a well-regarded spot like Matyson would lower their reputation to a legacy of petty, derogatory names in an effort to be 'hip.'"
"We didn't think it would get to the point where it would be offending people," says Darragh, who characterized he and Puchowitz's initial decision to run with the name as a joke on themselves and not on the Asian community. "I don't want to alienate anybody. We are definitely going to be brainstorming some new names. That's where we stand right now." Darragh adds he and his partner are drafting an apology directed toward Gym and others who have expressed offense.
As an Asian-American, I was surprised the first time I came across the name. As someone who grew up absorbing plenty of malicious comments about my background, I thought dubbing a white-owned concept "Roundeye" was too much of a risk. It took me a little while — plus visits to both pop-ups — to form my current opinion on the matter. What is lost in this conversation is the fact that "roundeye" is not a term Puchowitz and Darragh invented in a ethnically lunkheaded fever dream. It's a term used by Asians to describe white people. A version of this word can be found in the annals of pretty much every minority's slang lexicon — cracker, paleface, gringo. Would a white-owned Mexican restaurant called "Gringo's Tacos" elicit this type of reaction? I don't think so.
"I personally don't consider [Roundeye Noodle] racist because it's a slang term used by Asians to describe white people," says Clara Park, a Philly-based Korean-American culinary professional whose Twitter handle, @phillyslantfood, is racially charged. "For me it doesn't imply anything better or worse in regards to the shape of my own almond eyes. ... Now, if the owners of Roundeye Noodle came out and said something like, 'Roundeye Noodle is better than slant eye noodles,' then I would be seriously offended."
Roundeye, in my own not-that-round eyes, is causing an uproar for two reasons. First, though it's a word to describe Caucasians, it refers so sharply to a sensitive topic for Asians that some cannot help but feel slighted. Secondly, and more vitally in my opinion, the term "roundeye" is absolutely archaic — I've witnessed very few Asian-Americans of my generation (born in the '80s) dropping it into conversation, jokingly or not. Meaning, many who are simply unfamiliar with the term's origins in the Asian community view it as a back-handed attack and not how I personally see it, as an Asian version of "gringo."
Both Puchowitz and Darragh have made it clear that there is no racist intent behind their name, but, as Gym points out in her statement, "that's exactly the problem with racial stereotypes — they're so deeply ingrained people don't even question it." If the large number of Asians I've seen in the crowd during both Roundeye pop-ups is any indication, the partners have captured the interest of part of a community that's either accepting of or nonplussed by the controversial name.
Photos: Neal Santos
Well said. I think these situations are pretty easy...the original intent of the speaker doesn't really matter. A significant group of people have said they are offended by the name. Keeping it would now be an flagrant FU to those people. It's only a pop-up, and changing the name isn't that big of a deal, so they should change it.
Is it a slippery slope? I guess. If the complaints had happened after it was open six months, would thinks change? Maybe. But I think we're all smart enough to treat each situation that comes up individually.— alexr- Yes, the Roundeye guys have made it pretty clear that a name change is in the immediate works. As businesspeople, any other move would be unwise. What I find so interesting about this controversy is everyone's different takes on the term "roundeye." I've always understood it as I characterized in the piece, as a passing slang word used by Asians to refer to Caucasians. It's fascinating to me how quickly established perception can shift once a word lands on the lips of people outside the community. — Drew Lazor
- I took the name exactly the same way, akin to 'gringo', and was surprised by the outrage. But whatever, the important thing is that everything I had at the pop-up was awesome, and I guess it doesn't much matter what the sign outside says once they have their permanent place. I just hope they get set up soon!— Pam M
- How very "privileged white male" of them to include a race-based word in their business name. Gym is absolutely correct: racial stereotypes are dangerous precisely because they are so accepted amongst general society. I am glad that they are planning to change their name, I hope the change also includes a general apology for their entitled naivety.— Lori Z
- While I understand the possibility of the terminology being offensive in nature, I do question the timing of the outrage, as this is not the first Roundeye pop-up. This project was discussed on every food blog in town without any commentary before Ms. Gym sent out her email, and the only complaint we heard the first time around was the lack of seating and some folks didn't get ramen. I found the name to be borderline offensive the first time I heard it, and I was surprised no one said anything then.
Before, they were bad planners because of space issues. Now, they're deemed racists. What gives?— C. Evan - Pretty much everything I've seen about this as an actual news story originates with Ms. Gym, so it's plausible that the first go-around just flew under her radar, and no one else cared enough or had enough clout to really make it an issue. — Pam M
- Thanks for speculating on intent, but for clarification, the first opening of a one-day pop-up was troubling, but not necessarily clear what the end result would be. The issue became more important once it became clear through said blogs that the owners were considering a permanent location and were engaged in a marketing campaign on social media and through the food blogs. — Helen Gym
- WASp here who took "Round Eye" in the spirit I think it was intended - poking fun at themselves - non-Asians - cooking Asian fare. Never saw it as racially stereotyping Caucasians as round eyed, so I wasn't offended. I also appreciated the irreverence of the name for a pop up restaurant.
I am curious as to the percentage of the Asian community is outraged at the name? Is this akin to the Florida Family Association persuading Lowe's to drop its advertising on All-American Muslim or is it there widespread objection?
Out of curiosity, Drew, how do you feel about "Chink's?"— Holly Moore - Holly:
As much as advocates like Ms. Gym argue that intent is irrelevant in many cases of ingrained racism (and that is a very strong point), I don't think you can compare Roundeye to Chink's based on context. Roundeye's origin is two white dudes who are trumpeting the fact that they are not Asian. Chink's origin is based on the non-Asian founder's eye shape and being nicknamed "Chink" by people because of it, and then deciding to open a business named after himself — which is really just naming a business after an entrenched racial slur. Me personally, I'm made uncomfortable by the context behind Chink's, but not by the context behind Roundeye.— Drew Lazor - Correction. We never said that intentions are entirely irrelevant, but rather that it's not helpful to speculate about intent when folks say otherwise. The owners of "Ch- Steaks" have been fully intentional about the racist origins and use of their name. I'd be a lot more than "uncomfortable" with that cheesesteak shop. Clearly the owners of the noodlebar are not remotely in the same category of hate as the cheesesteak place; they've been classy and gracious throughout. That's why we focused on the hurtful impact of their choice of words rather than what their intentions were. — Helen Gym
- Believe it or not, this comment section is considerably more reasonable than the phily.com comment section. weird.— alexr
- I was shocked the first time I heard the name of their business and am glad that Ms. Gym is bringing light to the issue.— IndustryInsider
Comment removed.- Yes, "gringo" is a Latino term for white guy...and "roundeye" is an Asian term for white guy. I don't see how that is incongruous. As I mentioned specifically in the piece, yes, Roundeye is weightier to some (not all) because it directly references eye shape. But these terms mean the same thing and are used in a similar context. Same thing with the Japanese term "gaijin." Actually, Gaijin Noodle might be a great replacement name.
As far as them doing it "authentically" — I took their decision to call themselves "Roundeye Noodle" as a self-poke at their own IN-authenticity. They are clearly not trying to trick anyone into thinking they are Asian, and I'm thankful for that.— Drew Lazor - @SamWeiss - ummmm. Mine were definitely Ramen noodles. They had a duck Pho which used the thin noodles, like Pho, but mine were definitely of the tangly, curly variety, and quite good. And from all the pics I am seeing (including the one above in this very post) those would be Ramen noodles.— C. Evan
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