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Andrew Knowlton's feeling fat
Or, you might say, he's not feeling it.
Andrew Knowlton's feeling fat
...or not. We love bone marrow dumplings and duck fat-roasted potatoes as much as the next guy, but our better angels know there's only so much our hearts can take—not to mention that, while fat tastes good, a too-heavy hand can also dull and obscure other flavors. Yesterday, Andrew Knowlton took on the cult of fatty foods on his Bon Appetit blog, The Foodist.
(Elsewhere in the fat backlash, Gabby Hamilton was taking down "Josh Ozersky-style cooking"—that is to say, like, a deep-fried bacon-wrapped pork belly juicy lucy, or what have you—as "boyish and juvenile.")
Knowlton's rant ends with a call to crudos, and invokes a question from LA chef Jordan Kahn: "Should not the responsibility of a good restaurant also be to think about how the guest will feel after their meal & the following morning?"
The upshot? Blink and you'll miss it, but Knowlton cites our very own Vedge as a beacon of hope, and describes a recent meal there as "eye-opening."
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