Andrew Zimmern tackles tasting menu "tyranny"

Whether you're fretting over tyrannical restaurateurs or not, this podcast is worth a listen.

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Andrew Zimmern tackles tasting menu "tyranny"

POSTED: Monday, January 21, 2013, 1:20 PM
(Kate Sherron)

So, chances are that even if you haven't carved out the time to read it yourself, you've heard a thing or two by now about Corby Kummer's article in Vanity Fair, Tyranny—It's What for Dinner, which takes down the "tyranny" of tasting menus and "the shift the balance of power from diner to chef."

This week, Andrew Zimmern's Go Fork Yourself podcast came back from holiday hiatus to weigh in on the piece. And to be honest, we saw it and left that tab open in our browers for about two days, meaning to listen to it but putting it off because the original article didn't really resonate with us. But it's worth a listen, because Zimmern takes a predictably reasoned stance and says a lot of the things we were thinking when reading Kummer's piece.

His co-host, Molly Mogren, starts off saying that she "can't imagine a snobbier article ever written," and we wholeheartedly agreed. This seems like such a Food Writer Problem that we just couldn't fully engage, but Zimmern and Mogren do a great job of dissecting which parts of it to take to heart and which parts are sheer silliness. Zimmern also goodnaturedly ribs coming-soon-to-Philly chef Spike Mendelsohn and the legions of people who flock to his restaurants, and the food media in general. If you haven't caught it yet, we suggest you head over there when you've got a spare 45 minutes or so.

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