EAT THIS IMMEDIATELY: Hay-roasted oysters at Oyster House
Few images are more landlubbery than a sky-high stack of Farmer John hay bales, but chef Andy Kitko at Oyster House (1516 Sansom St.) has developed a way to work the grazing fodder onto his nearly-all-seafood menu.
EAT THIS IMMEDIATELY: Hay-roasted oysters at Oyster House

Few images are more landlubbery than a sky-high stack of Farmer John hay bales, but chef Andy Kitko at Oyster House (1516 Sansom St.) has developed a way to work the grazing fodder onto his nearly-all-seafood menu. Kikto, who first worked with hay in a kitchen context at NYC's Café Boulud, pops the tops of briny oysters (Cape May Salts lately) and tops them with squiggles of compound butter flavored with shallots and Herbes de Provence. He then tosses a handful of hay directly onto a hot grill, nestles the shucked oysters right on top of the pile and domes the whole thing, letting the hay smoke permeate the unassuming bivalves for 3 to 4 minutes. When they're done, they've got a hell of a lot going on — slippery, herbaceous bite from the butter, sure, but a funky, earthy smoke far different from what you get from burning wood is what's most prevalent. How does Kitko describe this flavor? "Barnyard — in a good way," he laughs. Eat these immediately!
Photo: Drew Lazor
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