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EAT THIS IMMEDIATELY: Pulpo y Ensalada Rusa at Jamonera
Yes, the ink's barely dry on the rezzie book at Valerie Safran and Marcie Turney's new Jamonera (105 S. 13th St.), but that doesn't mean a dish we had at their recent staff tasting is not legit ETI material.
EAT THIS IMMEDIATELY: Pulpo y Ensalada Rusa at Jamonera
Yes, the ink's barely dry on the rezzie book at Valerie Safran and Marcie Turney's new Jamonera (105 S. 13th St.), but that doesn't mean a dish we had at their recent staff tasting is not legit ETI material. Submitted your cephalopod approval: their pulpo y ensalada rusa, a restaurant interpretation of an all-too-common Spanish dish.
Ensalada rusa, or "Russian salad," is as common as coleslaw in España. There are as many regional variations on it as there are hairs on Javier Bardem's head, but the base ingredients never change — always potato, tuna, carrots and peas, and alwaysalwaysalways merciless amounts of mayo. Turney and crew have extracted each element of the salad (it often comes topped with meat in tapas joints) to create a polished pedestal for their octo. A base of aioli accented with crispy shards of fishy bonito meets a bed of snap peas, baby carrots and charred potato cubes, all crowned with custard-tender tentacles prepped in a pressure cooker. An enveloping drizzle of pickled chorizo vinaigrette adds fatty tang and reminds you where to aim. ¡Come esto inmediatamente!
Photo: Drew Lazor
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