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Heir Apparent
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With their collaborative dinner coming up in Chestnut Hill, we take a look back at the shared history of two Philly greats.
Heir Apparent
+and+Friends+-+Philly+Cooks+-+Photo+by+A.D.+Amorosi.JPG)
Georges Perrier may have given up his Le Bec Fin dynasty, but he hasn’t lost his taste for cooking or his passion for whisking. Ask his old pal Al Paris (above, left), Perrier’s one-time neighbor (Walnut Street’s towering Circa) and the current owner/chef of Chestnut Hill’s Heirloom, with whom the French master will pair for a collaborative dinner—the first of a series that will feature chefs who have played significant roles in Philadelphia's recent culinary history—this Wednesday.
After owning and roaming through the kitchens of Oberon (French), Mantra (Asian), Bombino’s (Italian) and Zanzibar Blue (Southern), Paris is in his element at Heirloom, what with its proximity to area farms and noted foragers and his head “in just that perfect place” for uniquely dynamic takes on duck confit, venison and crab cakes. “The synergy is amazing here,” says Paris.
Perfect and amazing enough to start welcoming guest chefs such as Perrier, a chef that Paris was introduced to through an association with old-guard French master René Verdon at Le Trianon in San Francisco. “I used to cook in his kitchen and he’d tell me stories about working for JFK. I trusted him. So when I told him that I wanted to get back to my home in Philadelphia, Rene told me to look up the 'little French man.'" Paris got a formal introduction to Perrier through Verdon, and the two became fast friends. When Perrier wrote the Le Bec cookbook in 1997, he launched it at one of Paris’ spots, Rococo. “He’s royalty,” says Paris.
It’s not just about their friendship at this dinner at Heirloom. Instead, Paris says it is about the lineage of the cuisine, the heritage. “He’s the real deal, a master of the gastronomy. I respect him and what he wanted to do.” Some of the items on the menu are in Perrier’s 1997 book, some old favorites from his repertoire. Paris’ contributions are accents to the French chef’s items—a Sea Urchin Cream to Perrier’s Scallop and Shrimp Mousse, for example. “He had input on my venison with that cranberry compote. It was easy.” (Talking about the menu, Paris is most attracted to the squab dish, “so simple and so complex at the same time, so Perrier”).
The $125 six-course feast is scheduled for Wednesday, November 14th at Heirloom (8705 Germantown Ave., Chestnut Hill). The dinner is sold out, save for two seats at the 9:00 p.m. seating, which are being auctioned off to benefit The Food Trust. If you'd like to place a bid, you can do so here.
Amuse Bouche
Tartar of November Oyster
chopped farm egg, American salmon caviar
First Course
Mussel Soup perfumed with Saffron
lemon thyme, shallots, vermouth, bay laurel
Second Course
Scallop and Shrimp Mousse with Maine Lobster
sea urchin cream, black morels
Choice of Entrée
Medallion of Venison
sauce grand veneur, chestnuts, lardon, cranberry compote, celery root
or
Roast Pigeon with Foie Gras
mushroom cannelloni, madeira, cabbage confit
Salad
Organic Baby Mache
first pressed walnut oil, white balsamic vinegar
Dessert
Terrine Glace Grand Marnier
raspberry coulis, fall fruit, tuile
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