Inside Scoop: The Mildred

Very good things to come at The Mildred opening September 12th.

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Inside Scoop: The Mildred

POSTED: Friday, September 7, 2012, 3:20 PM

Yesterday Meal Ticket had the pleasure of stopping by The Mildred (824 S. 8th St.) to see what's in store for the former James space in Bella Vista and we've got to say, it's looking absolutely gorgeous.

The Mildred is a collaboration between two cooks who met at Johnson and Wales culinary school and happen to have some stellar resumes. Heading up the kitchen is Michael Santoro. His most recent gig was at Talula's Garden but previously he made his way around Europe racking up hours of experience in the kitchens of the Michelin starred The Fat Duck and Mugaritz. Taking over front of the house is Michael Dorris, whose background also includes Michelin stars and stints in England and Switzerland before returning to the states to run a catering company. Emily Riddell of Le Bec is on pastry duty.

The space is clean and minimal with lots of lovely wood and brick detailsand a vaulted ceiling with exposed beams. There's both a very apparent eye for detail as well as an understated elegance when it comes to The Mildred: the napkins are from the very fancy Italian linen maker Frette, there are Staub cast iron vessels for roasted dishes and the bowls and plates are handmade by Dorris' high school ceramic teacher.

Sharing experience in the UK, Santoro and Dorris have crafted a menu that's heavy on French technique with a touch of a British accent as well as some Italian influence. We tried Santoro's beautiful stuffed quail served with al dente lentils, perfect little cubes of beets and baby artichokes that carried through the same understated elegance. Other menu standouts include vitello tonnato and bratwurst with charred onions, grapes and lovage.

Classic cocktails and beer will be on offer but the real excitement, drinks-wise, is Dorris' wine program. He's focusing on high acid wines that play well with Santoro's menu. Look forward to Old World selections, lesser known varietals like Sicilian Catarrato and off the beaten path bottles like a Secateurs, a Rhone Blend from South Africa's A.A. Badenhorst.

Santoro and Dorris are gearing up for a September 12th opening and will be serving dinner Tuesday to Saturday from 5:30 to 11 p.m. and Sundays from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.

Posted by Caroline Russock @ 3:20 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
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Founded in October 2008, Meal Ticket is a City Paper blog about food, drink and assorted other things that make you go mmm. We do recipes, interviews, restaurant news, commentary and much more. We don't do restaurant reviews herethose are handled in print, mostly by our critic (and Meal Ticket contributor) Adam Erace. Got a tip, question, thought or concern? Just want to say hello? Please shoot a note to caroline@citypaper.net.

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