Menu for Peter McAndrews' La Porta, plus word of a new concept

Peter McAndrews, the most Italian Irish guy we know, says his Media pizzeria in the old Locust Crest Tavern (1191 N. Middletown Road) should be ready to fire up its brick ovens next week.

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Menu for Peter McAndrews' La Porta, plus word of a new concept

POSTED: Friday, April 13, 2012, 12:00 PM
Filed Under: Menu Time | Openings

Peter McAndrews, the most Italian Irish guy we know, says his Media restaurant in the old Locust Crest Tavern (1191 N. Middletown Road) should be ready by next week. Name of the pizzeria has changed a bit, and changed sex, from Il Porto to La Porta — romance languages, you just gotta break balls with your masculine/feminine suffixes, don't you? — but still means "the door." Only now the door keeps saying how cute Jon Snow is.

Menu (PDF) is a big boy, with 13 spuntini (snacks) and apps McAndrews has wryly billed "antipizza" (cornmeal calamari with long hots and tomato agrodolce, wings "di Buffula" with Gorgonzola and apricot), a play on antipasto. Classic lasagna with meat sauce and gnocchi with mushrooms headline the tidy pasta section, leading into 10 thin-crust pizzas bound by the following advisory: "Please do not try to alter your pizza in any way; hence it may compromise its integrity!" With pies like the Barolo, topped with an aged Piedmontese cheese rubbed in Nebbiolo grape must, figs, caramelized onions and speck, how could anyone?

McAndrews will allow one alteration to his blistered pies, though: any of La Porta’s pizza can be made on a on a gluten-free crust. The chef has a soft spot for celiac awareness, since both his daughters spar with gluten. To them we raise a "sensa glutine" slice. And soon we might not have to go all the way to Media to do so, as McAndrews drops word of a late-nite, Lorenzo's-like, by-the-slice kiosk he’s planning for Girard Avenue. That would make seven Italian concepts for the chef who started with Modo Mio in 2007. Looks like someone's gunning for a Garces-ian business portfolio.

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