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More at the Shore: Atlantic City and Downbeach
Through the summer, we'll be running monthly installments of more shore recos from a kid who's been spending summers there since he could crawl: our very own Adam Erace.
More at the Shore: Atlantic City and Downbeach
In print this week, seaside scribe Jen Miller shared some of her can’t-miss eats by the beach. Through the summer, we’ll be running monthly installments of more shore recos from a kid who's been spending summers there since he could crawl: our very own Adam Erace.
More at the Shore begins with Atlantic City and its neighboring towns of Ventnor, Margate and Longport, known collectively as "Downbeach" — the closest Shore points to Philly, a scant 50 minutes if you're driving the right way. The Expressway practically dumps you out in the heart of AC: half seedy, half spiffy, with the glowing, blinking, jagged casino skyline like a giant cardiogram against the horizon. If you’re dining inside these behemoths, your best bet (predictably) is Borgata (1 Borgata Way) — Michael Schulson's Izakaya is no gamble, and the subterranean Fornelletto has a sick wine list and antipasto spread. But Harrah's (777 Harrah’s Blvd.) might be the spot this summer with the hotly anticipated return of Luke Palladino, who made waves last summer with a high-energy offshore BYOB in nondescript Northfield (1333 New Road). Remember when we told you about the deal back in March?
Outside the casinos, alway-bumping AC Bar & Grill (1219 Pacific Ave.) does a helluva steamed lobster and addictive crab pie (white or red pizza topped with lump meat) in the shadow of the Taj, and heading north to Absecon Island’s tip, you’ll find Back Bay Ale House (800 N. New Hampshire Ave.) in scenic, surprising Gardener’s Basin. Get the voodoo shrimp, mason jar margaritas and a seat on the deck overlooking the marina.
On the opposite side of the city, hit the James Beard Award-winning Chef Vola (111 S. Albion Pl.), if you (a) can get a reservation and (b) find it. (Hint: It's in a basement just past the Trop.) Back toward the bay, Little Saigon (2801 Arctic Ave.) has been serving a gorgeous lotus root salad and potent Vietnamese coffee since the ‘90s, and in Ducktown, Angelo's Fairmount Tavern (2300 Fairmount Ave.) has epic waits, nostalgic looks and a complimentary family-style house salad garlicky enough to repel all the bloodsuckers on True Blood.
Heading south, Atlantic City bleeds into Ventnor, where the cut-rate tenements and faded Art Deco condos give way to stately beachfront manors and quaint commercial strips. Here, you need to know Yama (5305 Atlantic Ave.), which cuts the best sushi at the Shore, followed by Mentos (5304 Ventnor Ave.) and The Ice Cream Place (7312 Ventnor Ave.) stands for dessert. Gino's (7306 Ventnor Ave.) is good for pizza and better for baked-to-order garlic knots.
Margate earns is see-and-be-seen rep at places like Tomatoe's (9300 Amherst Ave.) — yes, they know it's spelled wrong — and fine-dining-with-a-view Steve & Cookie's (9700 Amherst Ave.), but there's nothing slummy about a chili dog and cinnamon twist served like a banana split at Junior's Donuts & Dogs (9315 Amherst Ave.) right across the street. Or invade the locals' territory at low-key Robert's Place (7807 Atlantic Ave.); just be prepared for looks. Sundaes, shakes and cones should be procured at the midcentury Dairy Bar (9510 Ventnor Ave.) and Roaring Twenties-themed Two Cents Plain (9305 Ventnor Ave.). Just follow the smell of freshly ironed waffles.
Sleepy Longport does a brisk breakfast and brunch business with black-and-white-tiled Ozzie's Luncheonette (2401 Atlantic Ave.). Their orange juice is fresh-squeezed and a million dollars. We work off the fluffy pancakes with a bike ride along the waterfront, lined with mansions we could never afford. Well, maybe if we’d have skipped the o.j.
More at the Shore continues south in July with the best places to eat and drink from Ocean City to Stone Harbor.
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