Phyllis Stein-Novack gets into the Southern Spirit at Redwood

The gumbo's a no go but everything else passes the test at this South Street American bistro.

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Phyllis Stein-Novack gets into the Southern Spirit at Redwood

POSTED: Thursday, February 14, 2013, 1:47 PM

Before delving into Phyllis Stein-Novack's review of Redwood in this week's South Philly Review we'd like to mention that CBS Sunday Morning is one of the finest news magazine programs on air and PSN watches it religiously.

Okay, now that we've gotten that out of the way, let's talk about Redwood redwoodphilly.com (340 South St.), a newly opened American bistro on South Street. A segment on Sunday about Tabasco sauce and gumbo left PSN with a serious craving for the New Orleans staple and happily it's on the menu at Redwood.

Cocktails (not specified but we're thinking a Rob Roy and a martini) were icy cold and expertly mixed and small plates were small in name only, both big pluses in the PSN book of restaurant criticism.

House-made chips fried in duck fat had an indescribable flavor and proscuitto wrapped asparagus was grilled just right.

PSN was dubious about the pairing of Southern fried green tomatoes with feta and marinara but the disparate flavors worked together so well that the duo could have ordered another round.

There were a few issues with the gumbo that initially lured PSN into Redwood, namely a not dark enough roux, skimpy sausage and overcooked rice.

PSN described the service at this fine addition to South Street as first rate, noting that her conversation was not once interrupted during dinner. She also mentions that it is located right next door to Copabanana, which apparently serves a killer burger (really?).

All and all Redwood passed the PSN test with flying colors and was awarded a very nice three tips of the toque.

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