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Phyllis Stein-Novack witnesses culinary magic at Ela
Spoiler: Four tips of the toque!
Phyllis Stein-Novack witnesses culinary magic at Ela
Anyone familiar with South Philly Review Restaurant critic Phyllis-Stein-Novack knows that "flawless" is not a word that pops up too frequently in her reviews. Butin this week's review of Ela (627 S. 3rd St.) both the service and the meal were just that.
PSN and husband Edward experienced Jason Cichonski's culinary magic on a recent visit to the Queen Village corner. Beginning with a glass of Falanghina from the Cruvinet and a martini for Edward, PSN enjoyed the tableside French onion soup service. Almonds lent a Spanish flair to a beet and carrot salad.
Not a fan of molecular gastronomy, PSN is not too keen on kitchens that tread into the weird world of foams but Cichonski's melt-in-your-mouth whipped foie gras is not to be missed.
Other successful experiments included shiitaked-dressed scallop noodles which had the look of udon but tasted fresh from the sea.
The marrow-filled agnolotti that accompanied the Waygu beef sirloin were so good that PSN might be in the market for the recipe.
Foam made another appearance at dessert with a sweet and salty butterscotch and chocolate pudding.
PSN doesn't dole out four tips of the toque very often but Ela earned 'em with a flawless meal and service to boot.
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