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The fried chicken situation at Federal Donuts
"How many half chickens do you think we'll sell on Monday?" Mike Solomonov wondered aloud during a Thursday test-frying sesh at Federal Donuts (Second and Federal), which will open this coming Monday.
The fried chicken situation at Federal Donuts
"How many half chickens do you think we'll sell on Monday?" Mike Solomonov wondered aloud during a Thursday test-frying sesh at Federal Donuts (Second and Federal), which he, Steve Cook, Bobby Logue, Tom Henneman and CP/Meal Ticket contributor Felicia D'Ambrosio will open in less than 72 hours. My guess was in the triple digits, which shot a slight shudder through the room. Perhaps that's a lofty estimate for a little shop that'll only operate from 7 to 8 (chicken starts at 11), but based on the thermonuclear fat-kid anticipation FedDo has cultivated, I was simply hedging my Southern-fried bets.
Numbers be damned, they're gonna sell hellish amounts of this chicken — joining a litany of sugared and filled doughnut varieties and a custom PT's Coffee blend as behind-counter options — because it is very good. Their pollo, which cures overnight pre-deep fry, is offered two ways: crispy and caked in dry spices (a dope buttermilk ranch; very Zahav-ian za'atar/sumac and harissa mixes) and glazed (e.g. tossed in a sticky chili dressing in a riff on the style at Café Soho, a fave destination of the crew). Even if these flavors are familiar to you, know that they play in unexpected ways when applied to a food as intergalactically coveted as fried chicken. Just as the secret Pakistani rub at West Philly's Wah-Gi-Wah turns an unassuming butterflied bird into a complex bit of munchie magic, Middle Eastern, North African and Korean spices supporting salty gnarled chicken skin and juicy white and dark meat make for cultural commingling patriots of all persuasions can agree upon. Fried chicken will solve all our problems.
FedDo is doing half birds for $8 and wholes for $15, with accompaniments like Japanese pickles and honey-syrup-soaked plain doughnuts.
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