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The latest developments at Adsum
Owner Kar Vivekanathan, whose schism with Matt Levin was rooted in philosophical differences over the nature and direction of Adsum's cuisine, has just brought in a brand-new guy to execute a brand-new menu.
The latest developments at Adsum
Since Matt Levin stepped away from the stove at Adsum (700 S. Fifth St.) in late July, the role of top cook in the Queen Village bistro has been in flux. Though Levin's sous, Rahjan Shabazz, was initially tapped to head up the kitchen, both he and co-sous Mark Regan left the restaurant last week. Owner Kar Vivekanathan, whose schism with Levin was rooted in philosophical differences over the nature and direction of Adsum's cuisine, has just brought in a brand-new guy to execute a brand-new menu: Matthew Harnett, the Hop Angel Brauhaus and Slate vet Meal Ticket readers might be familiar with thanks to his handiwork in the realm of extreme burgercraft.
Though there are plans for Harnett to put a small selection of signature burgers on Adsum's menu (he was offering a pork belly-stuffed one last night), that's far from the only thing he'll be handling. Last night Hartnett was cooking off a small starter menu that featured straightforward dishes like mussels in a white wine, garlic, parsley and tarragon broth; pan-seared striped bass, topped with garlicky arugula pesto, over potato gratin; and whole-grain mustard spaetzle with a bright summer ratatouille. (Check out the current menu on Adsum's website.) All neighborhood-friendly dishes at respectable prices — precisely the direction Vivekanathan wants to steer Adsum toward as we approach autumn. "[Hartnett is] a great match for where we're going," says Vivekanathan, who promises a fully realized new menu no later than September 1. Expect the options to grow as Hartnett settles in; meatloaf, pierogi, Kentucky-fried oysters with cole slaw and a fried chicken plate (not sous vide) should all find footing on the menu soon.
Adsum's bar scene is also evolving considerably. They're starting by offering a daily 5-to-7 p.m. happy hour featuring $2 beers, $4 wines and $5 apps. The cocktail list has been overhauled; there are still a handful of house signatures available, but there's now a big focus on the classics, like the Sazerac, Negroni, Last Word, Lynchburg Lemonade and Hemingway Daiquiri. The beer list has grown, too, and there are solid plans to double it moving forward.
Photos: Drew Lazor
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