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| Down south industro-lager |
| Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio |
I'm risking my entire crediblity here, but what the hell. Modelo Especial is brewed by Grupo Modelo, Mexico's largest and top-selling brewery. The giant turns out the deplorable, lime-requiring lagers better known as Corona and Pacifico, as well as the respectable Negra Modelo, among other brands.
Modelo Especial is a fizzy pale lager that would be indistinguishable from Budweiser once poured into a glass. I tasted a 12-ounce can, freshly pulled from its six-pack ring. A very vigorous pour produced some white head, which had the characteristic industrial lager big-ass bubbles — the product of additions of carbonic acid to the beer.
The nose is so light as to be almost imperceptible. A little fresh-cut grass aroma is detected. The flavor, what there is of it, is meant for the beach-volleyball playing, keg-standing cup-flippers who have just outgrown Miller Lite. The beer is crisp and refreshing, meant to be served absolutely ice-cold. It isn't unpleasant or bad, just boring.
As a beer to drink in a bar with a selection that tops out at High Life, Modelo at least is clean and inoffensive. The can design is righteous cool looking and maybe some freshly minted 21-year old will think you look sophisticated swigging from an import .
Other than that, Modelo Especial is just like its north of the border brothers: fizzy yellow piss in a can.
Modelo Especial can be purchased at the Mexican deli on the corner of Ninth and Washington for $11 a six-pack.
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