Chef change at Le Virtù

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Chef change at Le Virtù

POSTED: Wednesday, September 8, 2010, 11:24 PM
Filed Under: Chef Salad | Food News
Photo | Adam Erace
Le Virtù's lemon tagliolini with prosciutto
It’s been a busy summer for Francis Cratil Cretarola and Cathy Lee, sweetheart owners of South Philly cucina Le Virtù (1927 E. Passyunk Ave.). In the past month, they won a Best of Philly award for their ethereal pastas; premiered their year-in-the-making Il Campo beer garden; and parted ways with opening chef Luciana Spurio — a mutual break-up, according to Cretarola. Meal Ticket brings you the first word on her replacement, Joe Cicala. Cicala is a 27-year-old Maryland boy — Lazor likes him already — who’s done time at Del Posto in New York, Galileo in D.C. and the Michelin-starred Ristorante al Cenacolo in Salerno, Italy. "I'm excited to be here," he says of our fair town. "All the natural resources nearby ... it's a chef’s dream." Cicala is of Sicilian descent, and while this might mean bloodshed in the old country, he’ll retain Le Virtù’s Abruzzese focus while introducing his own recipes, like quail stuffed with house-made pork sausage, porchetta-style rabbit and smoked potato gnocchi (!!!!!!) layered with braised lamb ragu. New menus will be rolling out officially next week — we’ll have them then — or make rezzies for Mon., Sept. 27, when Cicala plates up four courses paired with Duvel and Ommegang beers for $65 a head (menu below). Warm chocolate budino with mascarpone gelato and sour cherry puree’s already got us drooling.

Antipasto

Duvel-marinated swordfish ceviche with fennel, oranges, red onion and arugula

with Duvel Golden Ale

Primo

House-made tagliatelle pasta with Rare Vos-steamed mussels and Muffata sheep’s milk cheese from Abruzzo

with Ommegang Rare Vos Amber

Secondo

Ommegang Abbery Ale-braised short rib, creamy polenta and root vegetables

with Ommegang Abbel Ale Dubbel

Dolce

Warm chocolate budino with marscarpone gelato and sour cherry puree

with Ommegang Three Philosophers Quadrupel Ale


lorraine
Posted 2010-11-05 12:06:24
My husband and I were able to tell the chefs had changed, even before the change was announced. The food had gone downhill. The dish above used to be one of my favorites when the former chef was there...the fried rolls were terrible. I wish I knew where the former chef went!

Southron
Posted 2010-09-08 22:24:14
Sounds like he's got good credentials, but I go to Osteria way more than Le Virtu these days. Better food, better service.

David Mancini
Posted 2010-09-10 10:10:47
I am looking forward to the new menu and experiencing Chef Cicala's cuisine.  I was introduced to Le Virtu recently by my family (roots in Marche) and was delighted to find authentic regional cuisine in my home town.  What a treat! The service and hospitality made it feel like coming home again.  I gladly make the trip from Manhattan to Philly anytime to dine at Le Virtu. Chef Cicala can only add to what makes Le Virtu special.

VIDEO: Le Virtu chef Joe Cicala’s smoked potato gnocchi :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-10-06 15:05:45
[...] this clip of chef Joe Cicala (Adam Erace told you about him here) rocking a smoked potato gnocchi with lamb ragu at Le Virtù (1927 E. Passyunk Ave.). That kitchen [...] 

JIM LIBERATORE
Posted 2010-10-04 12:32:07
WHERE DID LUCIANA SPURIO GO ?

Chuck Shotton
Posted 2010-09-09 07:48:05
Philly is incredibly lucky to have Chef Cicala in town. We enjoyed many months of his creative talents, attention to detail, and wonderful food while dining at Palio in Leesburg, VA. Our town's loss is certainly Le Virtu's gain. We are already planning the next road trip for dinner. In the meantime, definitely check out the charcuterie (Joe makes some awesome stuff!) and the budino is not to be missed (warm chocolate, a drizzle of EVO, and some sea salt make an incredible combination.)  Buona fortuna a tutti!
Posted by Adam Erace @ 11:24 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
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Founded in October 2008, Meal Ticket is a City Paper blog about food, drink and assorted other things that make you go mmm. We do recipes, interviews, restaurant news, commentary and much more. We don't do restaurant reviews herethose are handled in print, mostly by our critic (and Meal Ticket contributor) Adam Erace. Got a tip, question, thought or concern? Just want to say hello? Please shoot a note to caroline@citypaper.net.

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