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EAT ARTFUL: Hook's 12-year Cheddar
The Web site for the award-winning alternative weekly, the Philadelphia City Paper.
EAT ARTFUL: Hook's 12-year Cheddar
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| HooksCheese.com |
| Calcium crystals for crunch |
Glamorous things to ingest that were made in 1998: single-malt Scotch, right bank Bordeaux, Champagne and now, Hook's 12-year cheddar.� DiBruno Bros. (930 South 9th St.) stocked a 40-lb. wheel of� the super-aged fromage just before the holidays; even with a� retail price of $49.99/lb, only about eight pounds remain.
Hook's Cheese Company is a family-owned business in Mineral Point, Wisconsin that produces over 35 cheeses, including America's oldest commercially-available cheddar, their rare 15-year. Though the 15-year has not yet made it into Philadelphia (the next batch is due to be released in March), I got a bite of the 12-year while braving the DiBruno Bros. Dec. 23 line.
An abundance of calcium lactate crystals pervade this cheese, adding a crunch and pleasant textural change from the smooth, rich paste.� The distinct sharp flavor of cheddar is magnified here by an earthy, almost dirty undertone that screams long-aging; it's definitely a cheese-head choice. Like Hook's other offerings, the 12-year cheddar is made� from the pasteurized milk of Wisconsin cows and curdled with a vegetarian "rennet".
A quarter-pound, enough to satisfy two cheese dorks when paired with some crusty bread, an Asian pear and a New Holland Dragon's Milk stout (or even a Victenaar, for the adventurous), is $12.50. Think of it as supporting the arts.
I appreciate the mention of pairing this cheese with beer, further adding support to the argument that beer is better for cheese than vino.
Beer, wine, whatevs! Cheese is delicious and this one sounds like a winner. Thanks, Felicia!
I tasted this cheese at DiBruno 9th Street...totally worth the price. I got a small piece, and it has lasted me for two weeks. A little bit goes a long way.
Is "dirty undertone" foodie code for tastes moldy??? I jsut want to know
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