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EAT THIS IMMEDIATELY: Roast quail at Nam Son
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EAT THIS IMMEDIATELY: Roast quail at Nam Son
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| Photo | Drew Lazor |
When I eat at Vietnamese places, I tend to stay pretty boring with my appetizers, opting for simple spring or summer rolls. (Deviation, however, usually manifests itself in my pho order, which tends to lean toward the tendon-y tripe-y end of the spectrum.) But I just couldn't pass up the roast quail (chim quay) starter at Nam Son, tucked into the shopping center at 16th and Washington. (It was previously called Nam Phuong, like the one at 11th and Washington; word has it that the principle of that location sold it to another party and is now operating solely out of this spot.)
Offered on an oval platter atop a rather negligible bed of lettuce, shredded carrots and cilantro, two quails are quartered, their teeny wings tucked aerodynamically close to the breast as if they were caught and cooked in mid-divebomb. The roasted skin is crisp but not greasy, boasting a sweet garlic and five-spice-enhanced glaze that's nice with a bit of the vinegary soy dipping sauce. Tiny bones crop up with some frequency, so keep an eye out.
As I coarsely ravaged my plate with my hands, I noticed a group of eight Viet-speaking diners shooting occasional glances over at me and whispering. At first, I figured they were impressed by my immersive culinary gusto, steering clear of the Americanized junk for their real deal countrymen's food. Then I realized I just looked like a total slob and had stuff all over my face. They were probably saying "get this poor kid a napkin" to each other in their native tongue.
Eat this immediately.
Nam Son Vietnamese Restaurant, 1601 Washington Ave., 215-545-4067
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