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Haute dumplings at Chew Man Chu
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Haute dumplings at Chew Man Chu
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| Photo l Julia Koprak |
Photographer/food fiend Julia Koprak, who spent several years living in Asia, was eager to check out the dumpling situation at the new Chew Man Chu, so we sent her over to grub out. Here's her report.
After observing many a packed house since its opening in late October, I was excited to visit Chew Man Chu (Symphony House, 400 S. Broad St.), housed in the space that was previously Du Jour. The menu spans a multiple Asian cuisines, which makes a lot of sense given executive chef Tyson Wong Ophaso�s background: Born in Laos, with a Chinese/Japanese father and Thai mother, Ophaso speaks several languages. So many, in fact, it was difficult to keep track of the different countries he rattled off in one breath.
In Asia, dumplings and noodles are often considered street food, but Ophaso�s approach is much more crafted. He finishes pot stickers (above) with brown butter to create an extra-crisp bottom; he stuffs soup dumplings with blue crab and serves them in a white wine, vinegar and ginger sauce with goji berries. Actually, there was no soup (read: pork juice) to be found in the oxtail soup dumplings I sampled, but that might've been because they weren�t brought out in a traditional bamboo steamer. Some of the other atypical elements you�ll find in Chew's dumplings and spring rolls � ricotta, mirepoix and hollandaise (!).
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| Photo l Julia Koprak |
I spoke to Ophaso about some of the liberties he takes on his menu. When I asked him why he dialed down the fish sauce flavor in thepPad Thai, he explained he wanted to please American customers, thus upping the amount of tamarind paste and adding paprika (you won�t find any of that spice at your favorite Bangkok noodle vendor). Still, this is definitely the kind of restaurant where, if you prefer a little more kick, they'll happily provide whatever you may need. One of the more authentic touches at Chew is the little condiment jars on each table � though you'd probably have a hard time finding a chef who makes his own soy sauce at your average hole-in-the-wall dumpling joint.
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| Photo l Julia Koprak |
One highlight of my meal was the complimentary bag of fresh-made donuts served tableside.� Shaken up in a brown paper sack with powdered sugar, this dessert brought back memories of wandering through night markets eating delicious fried morsels out of bags. Given its polish and location, Chew Man Chu can't really be considered a replacement for the slightly grungy (but cheap!) spots we love in Chinatown. But for those in Center City looking to a meal with a little Asian flair � especially pre- or post-theater � the spot offers something unique to the area.
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