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Two surfers sit on their boards in the unpopulated lineup that is typical of late fall in New Jersey. Though the water is cold and the ambient temperature colder, the best waves of the year happen only after the summer crowds are long departed. Waiting for the next set to roll in, the two watermen make conversation.
That casual beginning was the seed of the Jersey Shore's most lauded restaurant in recent memory, Blue, and now a new Philadelphia venture, Noble American Cookery.
The two surfers were Bruno Pouget, original owner of Caribou Café and a current principle of Apothecary, and Todd Rodgers.
Connected by their shared love of surfing and passion for cuisine, the two partnered with chef Steven Cameron to open Blue in Long Beach Island, New Jersey.
Though Blue is open just five months out of the year, Cameron quickly earned a semi-finalist nod from the James Beard Foundation for "Best Chef, Mid-Atlantic", as well as a seriously favorable review in The New York Times, which called his cuisine "far-reaching, inspired and ambitious."
The trio is on the verge of graduating from feeding summer folk to opening Noble at 2025 Sansom St., a property they have owned since 2005. Cameron will focus on using local ingredients from his farmers and fishermen, with special attention to avoiding unsustainably harvested seafood. Seasonally changing menus will highlight herbs picked from the restaurant's rooftop garden.
The space has been painstakingly restored to its original condition, with reclaimed wide hickory plank floors, a 20-foot bar and an upstairs dining room illuminated by three skylights. Noble will be the first restaurant in Philly to feature alfresco dining tables that face into the restaurant, as well.
Opening is projected for early in 2009, just about the time even the most dedicated surfers thaw out and head indoors for some comforting food and a drink.
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