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Tuesday, September 7, 2010
Notes from the Weekend is a Monday Tuesday (this week) feature that sees the members of Team Meal Ticket compiling all the food/drink highlights uncovered during prime eatinÂ’ time, Friday to Sunday. Consider this a place for good deals, great dishes, wicked cocktails, recipe triumphs (and tragedies), bizarro conversations and more. WeÂ’re eager to share our notes, but especially excited to read yours. We encourage you to leave notes from YOUR weekend in the comments. Have at it! (View past NFTW installments at citypaper.net/notes.)
Rachel Burgos: RB
Adam Erace: AE Drew Lazor: DL
Photo | Drew Lazor
Friday: A plan to grab a "quick bite" at fish (1708 Lombard St.) turned into a full-fledged, multi-cocktail meal at the bar. Oops. Dug into an amazing spread of rock shrimp with tender gnudi, lobster and mushrooms in a duck fat bernaise (above; also, hell yeah!) and tuna atop pineapple fried rice with a peculiar and delicious vanilla vinaigrette. Also got to try a bite of the rich, pistachio-studded duck mortadella Mike Stollenwerk made for his recent James Beard dinner. A meat sighting at fish is as rare as the coelacanth, which is a fish. —DL Friday night, I had some girlfriends over for spiked Arnold Palmers made with sweet tea vodka and some bodega lemonade. We got delivery of  a steak pizza and some jalapeño poppers from J & J (Ninth and Federal), both awesome. Their poppers are made with cream cheese, not cheddar, something I didn't think of until my friend wondered out loud. We  eventually staggered over to the P.O.P.E (1501 E. Passyunk Ave.) for a friend's belated birthday/welcome home party, where I enjoyed Dogfish Head's Punkin Ale on tap. —RB Friday, I gathered evidence for my theory that the Piazza, not Sunnydale, is the actual portal to Hellmouth. Started with quick bite at Apollinare, where I watched a 70-year-old paesan' try to pick up the blue-fingernailed bartender by saying he was friends with Tony Danza, an apparent regular at the restaurant. (For thoughts on the food, you'll have to wait till my review next week.) Then, spying little kids with Capogiro cups, I popped over to the too cute-and-crowded Nana Petrillo's for a cone of ciocolato scurro. —AE Saturday was super-duper low key. Had a Wawa coffee and sandwich for breakfast, ran errands, made boxed Velveeta mac 'n' cheese for lunch (classy!), then watched Pedro Almodóvar movies while eating leftover steak pizza for dinner. It was still mad tasty. —RB I discovered on Saturday that Artisan Boulanger (1646 S. 12th St.) now brews Counter Culture, which made for a fair-trade Vietnamese iced coffee laced with eco-responsibility as thick as sweetened condensed milk. Also scooped a two-inch-tall croque monsieur sold by the half, cream puff shells and pistachio croissants I gobbled on the curiously traffic-free drive to the shore. I swooned over the salt-tinged, almost citrusy sweetness of the green pistachio paste. I swerved while savoring the endless layers of buttery pastry, brittle of ancient Egyptian papyrus. I almost hit a Honda. This is not an advisable way to drive, but fortunately I'm an expert in the road-head-for-food-nerds department. —AE Heard "Money Ain't a Thing (Thang?)" and "Can I Get A..." for the first time since my soph hop at my brother Andrew Erace's 25th birthday bash at Borgata's subterranean mur.mur. Which brings me to my preemptive hangover strike I will share with all of you now: cereal. I know, the thought of milk entering a bellyfull of tequila sounds like a recipe for a volatile chem lab experiment, but one small bowl before bed has never failed me. Special K with Red Berries, you are my savior. —AE In my opinion, there are few restaurants as consistently tasty and welcoming as Mémé (2201 Spruce St.), and a Saturday dinner solidified this yet again — I scraped the hell out of a long marrow-stuffed bone and sawed through a juicy-ass pork T-bone with bacon succotash and half a grilled peach while chef David Katz took his PJs-rocking baby son around the dining room to say hi to guests. When you're here, you're family. No unlimited salad and breadsticks, though. Stop being so cheap. —DL
Photo | Rachel Burgos
On Sunday, I suggested to my boyfriend that we do a "Mexploitation" day, so we started out with a Cantina los Caballitos (1651 E. Passyunk Ave.) breakfast. I got the huevos Mexicana, which was actually pretty bland — white rice, black beans, and a scrambled egg/tomato/onion/jalapeño mixture, served with three tiny tortillas. Snooze central. After that we went to see Machete, which was so full of general bad-assery that I think I high-fived someone sitting next to me after a beheading. Post-movie, the friends we went with were hungry and on a quest for delicious beer, so we headed to the Foodery in NoLibs (837 N. Second St.). Eventually ended up at P.Y.T, where I had my first-ever adult milkshake — I opted for the Caucasian because it was a reference the The Dude. It was bangin', made with vanilla vodka and vanilla ice cream, though I can't see spending $10 multiple times on a drink that will fill you up and not get you tipsy. —RB
Photos | Drew Lazor
Sunday, blew way too much cash on stupid home things at Target (why do I have to keep buying shower curtain liners?! shower curtains should just come lined), but I made up for it with an impromptu stop at the Taco Loco truck at Fourth and Washington. One campechanos taco, one tripa taco, a couple veggie beans/rice ones for the meat-ducking girlie and we forgot all about how we spent 15 fruitless minutes looking for scrubby dish wand heads. Screw you, Target. —DL
Photo | Adam Erace
Sunday, stuffed myself at the annual Erace Family Fish Fry in Ventnor, where fire captain/avid fisherman cousin Michael "Mims" Iraci — he changed it back to the pre-Ellis Island spelling back in the day, thus not dooming his sons to a childhood of blackboard eraser puns — cooks up all extra fish he's caught and frozen over the summer. Think fried fluke, broiled striper, blackened catfish and because this is a gathering of 40 Italians, baked rigatoni and this pan of veal sausage and peppers. —AE
Photo | Drew Lazor
Monday night, stopped into a super-quiet Kraftwork (541 E. Girard Ave.) and threw down on the veggie board (AE loves this, too), a traditional pork/prosciutto/sage saltimbocca scattered over with mushrooms and the meanest, ripest tomato salad you ever did see. Los pomodoros aren't going to stay this amazing for much longer, so take advantage while you still can. —DL
Photos | Rachel Burgos
Monday I spent all morning making my way to North Jersey for a family dinner. Between SEPTA and NJ Transit, my commute was hellish thanks to "holiday schedules" and late trains. I eventually made it to Loucas in Edison (9 Lincoln Highway). We all shared an appetizer sampler that included eggplant rollatini, a caprese salad, shrimp in garlic sauce, stuffed portobello mushrooms, and clams with bacon on top (yessssss!). After all of that, we still ordered dinner; I played it safe and got a seafood capellini. Since we were celebrating mine and my twin's birthday, we were treated to a dessert of crème brûlée with two candles in it.  Everything was delicious, and meals are just better surrounded by my loud, hungry, amazing family. In typical Jersey-family-get-together fashion, a cousin had sent over a batch of fresh tomatoes from his garden for everyone. I grabbed a handful and can't wait to use them. —RB This is probably locavore heresy, but microwaving is a really lazy and awesome way to make good corn on the cob. Just stick some shucked ears on a damp paper towel and zap the things for roughly a minute per ear. It comes out piping-hot and juicy and ready to be buttered and salted. Don't tell Alice Waters. —DL
Photos | Adam Erace
Monday, ended the summer with Mack & Manco's on the Ocean City boardwalk, where the pizza seems to get more expensive every season, no? Two large pies and five drinks — the only acceptable sip is the fountain Pennsylvania Dutch-brand birch beer — cost $60 with tip. Yikes! Really, this is just useless haranguing, because I'd fork over my whole pitiful savings account for these cheese-and-nostalgia-soaked pies. While the price changes, their flavor stays the same. After, I hit up classic Kohr Bros. for their new flavor, dulce de leche. (Great job targeting the Latino market, guys!) Get it solo, or twisted with coffee soft-serve, though jimmies aren't up for debate. A sweet way to put a cap on summer 2010. —AE
Photo | Drew Lazor
This, despite its slightly brittle leafage, is the perfect cherry. I feel like it should be tattooed on the collarbone of some cute rockabilly chick instead of just chillin' on my kitchen table. —DL

Rachel Burgos
Posted 2010-09-08 10:38:37
Holy smokes, that meal sounds awesome! I may have just drooled a little. My dear friend is very Irish, and she has a HUGE family party every St Patrick's day that involves the making and consumption of smoked butt with cabbage. I stopped laughing at the "butt" part when she described how good it was.

gourmand jk
Posted 2010-09-08 10:17:30
As is typical when preparing a meal for 10 people, my cooking buddy and I tried making something that we'd never tried before--namely, pork butt (and yes numerous jokes ensued afterward about eating butt).  I must say, at $2/pound, what a fantastic bang for your butt, I mean buck (too bad I can't use Mr. Lazor's nifty strikethroughs on the comments).  Slow roasted it with a dry rub and some fresh herbs for about 5 hours, and ate it with a squash and wild mushroom risotto and blanched wax beans.  Managed to digest enough to make room for dessert: grilled peaches with lemon zested whipped cream and maple glazed pecans.

robinslick
Posted 2010-09-07 16:59:15
Okay, i can't resist talking about Mac and Manco's, since I was also there yesterday and yeah, yeah, it's a tradition.  But $60 for two pies and five drinks?  Erm...did you ever notice you never, ever get a check when you ask for your tab nor are you ever handed a cash register receipt?  And that the guys who work there are all obvious relatives of Mrs. Manco  and clearly can't do simple math..so they stare at your order and do a tally in their head...only it's never the same amount.  We actually laugh cos' we always order the same thing when we go as a family and eat there - two pies and four small drinks.  Now, a plain pie is $17.  Small drinks are allegedly $1.50.  We've had our bill anywhere from $45 to $60, too.  On Sunday I went up to the window and ordered two pies to go.  The response was $34.00.  I said to myself, "Ha!  Finally!"   Except as we stood there waiting for our pies to cook, my son wanted a slice on the side and a small drink.  Somehow, it went up from $34 to $42.  I walked away and said to my son, "Did I just pay $8 for a slice of pizza and a small Coke?"

Yep.

So like, how do they get away with no receipts, tax, etc.?  If I didn't like their crappy pizza so much, I would never go there but even though it seems to get thinner and thinner and more expensive each year, it's the rule that we have to eat there.

Oh yeah, one final thing.  I'm a vegetarian and always get vaguely sick after I eat their piza though again, not enough to keep me away.  I am wondering if the lard in the crust rumor is true.  On second thought, don't tell me.

Felicia D'Ambrosio
Posted 2010-09-07 16:52:55
Two Philadelphia alums -- Brian (former sous of Roy's) and Kara (former pastry at Striped Bass) are holding down THE best food in Manasquan NJ's little commercial strip. 

I visited three times in one weekend, proving that nowhere else can even come close to these guys. 

London Broil sandwich -- horseradish cream, perfectly mid-rare slices of beef, pepperjack and fried shallots like to die

Cheesesteak -- just as good as the best in Philly

Chicken Salad sandwich -- why isn't there corn and bacon in every version?

Highly recommend checking it out if you're ever in that particular Shore 'hood.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/max-devros-manasquan

Andy B
Posted 2010-09-07 16:47:19
Saturday-cocktails at Cantina where I was the only guy without any type of facial hair.  Followed it up with one of the best dinners of the summer at Fond.  Corn risotto with crispy pancetta and a swordfish with tomatoes and tzatziki. 

Sunday-Metropolitan bakery croissant on the way down the shore and then a potluck dinner on the bay in LBI.  Pork loin sliders, BBQ brisket sandwiches, bacon wrapped dates, jalapeno poppers and copious light beers.

Sunday back in town for breakfast at the counter at Honeys.  Huevos rancheros with chorizo, and a double cheeseburger with BBQ potato chips on it in my in-laws backyard to close out the holiday weekend.

CMF
Posted 2010-09-08 12:52:35
Thursday and Saturday nights were closing nights at the bar, so I just threw down a Southhampton Keller Pils or two after my shift.  That beer has been on constant rotation in my thirsty hands.

Friday was a late night but with quick jaunts after work to the Pope (MORE KELLER PILS for me and my man) and then the Sidecar right before closing time to take home a six pack (Duck Rabbit Amber, Prima Pils, Stoudts Pils, Purple Haze, Lagunitas IPA, and... something else)

Sunday, I worked the inaugural brunch at Local 44 and couldn't take my eyes off the food.  This stuff looks and tastes gooooood.  I personally ordered the PB&J French Toast sticks and Shitake Scrapple-- and sampled the vegan Red Flannel Hash.

Sunday night brought a night of rest with some Dogfish Punkin, Victory's Hellerbock, and some burgers and spinach dip on a friend's deck.  Monday = more work, nothing exciting to report.  Amen.

danya
Posted 2010-09-07 18:33:21
I forgot to say: PISTACHIO CROISSANTS by Artisan!?!?! Did not know. Now, I do.

danya
Posted 2010-09-07 17:43:40
Re: Microwave corn - My hyper-gourmet aunt & uncle shocked me this summer when they served bluefish they caught, zucchini from their garden & bread baked by a friend with - gasp - microwaved corn on the cob. Who knew?

Having guests from out of town is always a great excuse to get the best Philly offers. So:

SAT Started out with a traipze through 9th St Market and then on to East Passyunk to score supplies. Wowed the visiting fam with Capogiro ("Best gelato we've ever had!"). A stop at Hawthorne's outdoor seating on the way back for some choice Yards selections.

Back home for a cheese plate that included prosciutto & mozz from Claudios, & was pepped up by Zahav hummus and amazing fig jam from Green Aisle. Followed by grillin: Griggstown herbed poussin and NY Strips from South Philly Acme. (No one can tell me the mafia does not run that meat dept. They have the best beef, hands down.)

SUN Showed off the Headhouse Market. As I was shopping for goods, Mr. Not-hungry-yet-its-too-early snagged a breakfast sausage sandwich from the Renaissance truck, and ate the whole thing in about 2 minutes. "I was trying to save you a bite, but..."

MON Visitors are fun, but when they leave it's time to relax. Happy coincidence: new fave Catahoula was hosting a Bartenders' Association gathering with Plymouth Gin. Even existing on the fringes meant random exotic-but-hardcore cocktails repeatedly found their way into our hands. The Oyster Shooters are incredible (2 for $5) and the Po' Boys rock. 

Eating & drinking this weekend was as stellar as the weather.

kibby
Posted 2010-09-07 18:53:33
I don't have to imagine it Adam-- ITS ALREADY DONE!!! I make some pretty delicious (albeit definitely white person, inauthentic-style) banh mi on those baguettes more than I care to admit.  I've been on a self imposed Artisan hiatus for a while because it was bordering on Intervention-style addiction.

Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-07 22:33:25
Can we talk about the goat's milk butter at fish? I could eat that by the ice cream scoop.

Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-07 17:45:58
Kib, Artisan really is the best. Could you imagine a banh mi on those baguettes....

tim
Posted 2010-09-08 17:49:25
Friday was my birthday and I celebrated with my buddy, whose b-day was the following day.  We started with breakfast at Morning Glory, then hit the bars: POPE to Varga to Fergie's to Oyster House to Tria to Slice (yeah, not a bar but we needed food) to the Franklin to Johnny Brenda's.  God bless my sainted wife for taking me home that night.

Saturday, the aforementioned sainted wife treated me to an amazing birthday dinner at the chef's table at Elements in Princeton, NJ.  It was a multi-course extravaganza with seriously good cocktail and wine pairings.  The food is definitely worth the drive.

Sunday, my brother and I brewed 20 gallons of rye pale ale for his upcoming wedding and then went to a family party where the host grilled up some great pizza (pulled pork with smoked gouda and scallions was a highlight).

Monday, brunched at Johnny Brenda's on a croque madame, Standard Porter and Dock Street Satellite Stout. Back at home for dinner I grilled a butterflied chicken while my wife sauteed spinach and made potatoes and corn on the cob.  I washed it all down with some delicious rosato from Proprieta Sperino.

danya
Posted 2010-09-08 10:07:42
I've had the almond... had it yesterday, in fact. But c'mon, pistachio? I'm drooling.

kibby
Posted 2010-09-07 15:30:37
That cherry really is adorable.  Also, Adam, Artisan Boulanger is my favorite. I love it as much as I love my cats.
Friday I was FINALLY rewarded with something I had been waiting for.  For four days in a row, I had faithfully gone to the POPE (literally across the street from my house, but still!!!) with the hopes that Ephemere would be on tap after spotting it  on the "coming soon" list.  On Friday, I finally got to have some of it and it was worth every day I spent chasing the dragon. 
Saturday I ate a lunch of pork schnitzel and spaetzle at a creepy, creepy place in rural PA.  It was full of old people and had a "raw bar" right when you walked in the doors that was totally unattended and had a bunch of shucked oysters sitting on ice.  I was tempted to steal some but the whole place smelled like a nursing home so I somehow lost my urge to eat shellfish.  It was a weird place but I got drunk there.  Silver lining!

gourmand jk
Posted 2010-09-08 10:05:22
That butter is awesome.  I seriously think you can judge the quality of a restaurant by the tastiness of its butter.

alex
Posted 2010-09-08 07:59:21
The goat's milk butter at fish is sublimely good. Like i don't understand why goat's milk butter isn't everywhere. I also don't understand how it's still possible to get reservations at fish. Way underrated.

Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-07 22:36:21
When you wanna get re-addicted, I am an excellent enabler.

Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-07 22:35:35
All the croissants are great there--I think they call them croissants, although they look more like danish--but the pistachio is the best I've tried. I noticed them for the first time last weekend, saw the green shade and figured it for something tropical like guava. Grab 'em if you see 'em,

Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-07 22:44:59
To be fair, I should clarify that one pie was white ($19.25 versus the $17 for a regular), plus $2.50 to add spinach. By my math, I figure each soda for about $2. It's pretty ridiculous when you put into perspective that you could get a pizza at Osteria for less than the $21.75 cost of the white--but I can't help love the M&M. Been going there since I had enough teeth to tear through a slice.

Molly Eichel
Posted 2010-09-07 17:47:00
Celebrated Larry's birthday at the Mill Creek Tavern on Sunday. The super friendly bartender wanted to pretend it wasn't his special day but he was so chatty and sweet (not to mention an excellent pourer), I was down to celebrate with him either way. Then hit up Fiume, for some Jack and Gingers and delightful bar banter with the 'tender, Alli.

tim
Posted 2010-09-08 17:31:03
I asked the Patches of Star lady at Headhouse why she doesn't sell goat milk butter.  She said it's because it takes an insane amount of milk to make it, and she would have to charge so much for it it's not worth it.  Re: Fish, I love the food but the service has ranged from erratic to indifferent (bartenders excepted).

Doron Taussig
Posted 2010-09-07 18:04:27
BBQ on Lemon Hill on Labor Day. Practically empty! What the hell? Had chicken and veggie kabobs, then lazily decided to put marshmallow kabobs on the grill, rather than holding them over it (so taxing!). Naturally they melted into a giant mallow blob, which we all dunked our graham crackers and hersheys in. Somehow the remainder scraped off easily. I highly recommend this accident.

Michelle
Posted 2010-09-07 22:13:23
Thanks for posting the pic of the cherry! It somehow eases the guilt I feel from consuming its cuteness.  

Friday was the first time I've eaten at the bar at fish and it won't be the last- so wonderful!  Meme was great as always (corn and ricotta agnolotti with truffle and parmesan oh my!) and I can't get the delicious veggie board at Kraftwork out of my mind.

Great food AND a killer episode of Mad Men? September is shaping up to be pretty amazing!
Posted by Drew Lazor @ 7:54 PM  Permalink | File Under: Notes from the Weekend | Post a comment
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Founded in October 2008, Meal Ticket is a City Paper blog about food, drink and assorted other things that make you go mmm. We do recipes, interviews, restaurant news, commentary and much more. We don't do restaurant reviews herethose are handled in print, mostly by our critic (and Meal Ticket contributor) Adam Erace. Got a tip, question, thought or concern? Just want to say hello? Please shoot a note to drew.lazor@citypaper.net.

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