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| Photo | Drew Lazor |
You know that paranoid food-nerd friend you have who complains that ethnic restaurants tamper with his food based solely on the fact that he's American? Well, grating as he may be, he's right, at least according to Han Chiang � Chinese-run places regularly profile (for lack of a better term) customers and water down preparations thusly. But the restaurateur, who recently opened his third Han Dynasty location in Old City (108 Chestnut St., 215-922-1888), stresses that'll never, ever happen at one of his Sichuan eateries. Though there's an Americanized menu available at Chiang's suburban locations, there's nothing of the sort offered here in Philly. Why? "I have problems selling things I hate," says Chiang matter-of-factly. "My customers, when they come in � they want the real stuff."
Yes, the guy is dead-serious about authenticity, but don't mistaken that for rigidity. On the contrary, Chiang likes to quiz his diners when they sit down to determine what they'll like best. He says he's able to turn plenty of dishes vegetarian, too. As far as increasing or tempering the heat of dishes off his Sichuan menu, though � "I can do that, but I don't want to." In Chiang's eyes, stuff is spicy or not spicy for a reason, and should be served the right way.
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| Photo | Drew Lazor |
Sichuan cuisine's broken down into two major disciplines � Chengdu style (appetizers/small plates) and Chonqing style (mostly entr�e-size stuff that brings the serious heat). Han Dynasty's menu, delineated by cooking style, touches on a bit of it all � dry pots featuring your choice of meat or seafood; cumin-crusted meats; fish/meat stir-fried with pickled chili sauce; Kung Pao-style dishes that play with sweet, sour and spicy by bringing together peanuts, celery and hot peppers. There's also a number of street-food-style dishes from Chiang's native Taiwan on the menu. Heat level's conveyed on a 10-point scale.
For right now, Han Dynasty's open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.-ish. Chiang will have a liquor license come March or April.
[...] Han Chiang has opened the Old City outpost of his Han Dynasty dynasty. It is the third of his locations and promises no dumbed down items on his menu. [Meal Ticket] [...]
Wow...I'm drooling, this menu looks like the real deal. It might even rival Four Rivers. I am that paranoid food nerd and WILL be goin there real soon.
I went there yesterday. AWESOME! The heat is there but does not overshadow the wonderful and complex spice combination and the flavor of the dish. No holding back on the numbing Sichuan peppercorns either. Dry pan lamb was out of this world. The pepper pork that had a 4 heat rating had very little heat. Must have been bum long green peppers. Definitely planning to go back soon.
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