SUPPER: Last call for marinara

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SUPPER: Last call for marinara

POSTED: Monday, October 27, 2008, 3:20 PM
Filed Under: Dirty Dishes | Recipes
Goodbye, marinara. It's been nice eating you.
Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio

Every week, I head to Greensgrow Farms with my heart in my mouth, convinced that today is the day without tomatoes. Lusty red- and yellow-streaked heirlooms and petite plums are the soul of a simple marinara with caramelized onions and herbs that has sustained me since August, when the tomato harvest began pouring in from surrounding farms.

Every Thursday and Saturday, I rake the ruby bounty into my basket, casting suspicious eyes at my fellow shoppers, prepared to shovel yet faster should some other sauce-maker take a step toward my supply. Though I am not proud of this packrat behavior, these superior local tomatoes are at the true end of their season, and we will all go without fresh marinara until next summer's heat sends us a new harvest.

Scoop up the last tomatoes of the season and savor your last bite of summer with this garlic-less fresh marinara. Scads of caramelized red onions lend a subtle sweetness to the sauce without any additions of sugar. (But if you like garlic or have it on hand, by all means use it.) Shallots, red or white onions can be used interchangeably, and the sauce can be reduced to your preferred thickness. The marinara can also be puréed in a Cuisinart or blender to create a smooth texture for pizza or layered pasta dishes like eggplant parmigiana and lasagna. Gnocchi can be topped with marinara and grated Locatelli cheese for a quick dinner; simply scooped up with toasted slices of thick bread, it makes for a healthy Indian summer lunch. Recipe for Caramelized Onion Marinara after the jump.

Bring your own box to Greensgrow
Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio

Caramelized Onion Marinara

(Makes one large pot of sauce)

Go Get This:

5 lbs. fresh local tomatoes

2 large red onions

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Big handful of fresh herbs: parsley, basil, oregano, thyme, or a combination

Salt and pepper

hearty pinch of red pepper flakes if desired

Then Do This:

1. Put a large stockpot of water on the stove to boil. While waiting for the water to boil, core each tomato with a sharp knife and cut a small "X" in the skin of the bottom of the tomato.

2. Prepare a large bowl of ice water.

3. While you wait for the water to boil, dice the onions to your desired size. Rinse and pick herbs, chopping large herbs like basil and parsley.

4. When the water is boiling, place tomatoes in boiling water for 1-2 minutes until the skin splits. Fish the tomatoes out with a sieve or tongs and drop into ice water. Peel tomatoes.

5. With your fingers, bust open each tomato and pull out the seeds. This is easiest to do over two bowls: one for seeds, skin and trash, one for juices and tomato flesh.

6. Chop the deseeded tomato flesh into rough chunks.

7. In a heavy stockpot or cast-iron pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When it is very hot (the oil will shimmer like the air over the highway on a hot day) add the chopped onions. Stir to coat with oil.

8. Gently caramelize, but do not burn, the onions. Refrain from seasoning with salt until you have reached your desired level of brownness.

9. Season caramelized onions with salt and pepper; pour in the chopped tomatoes and all of their liquid. Turn flame up to high.

10. Bring tomatoes and onions in their liquid to a boil, stirring frequently. If you are short on time, leave the heat on full blast, stirring and checking frequently to avoid burnt spots, reducing the sauce to your desired thickness. If you've got all Sunday to do this, reduce heat to medium, simmer and reduce.

11. Once sauce has reduced to your preferred thickness, add chopped herbs and red pepper flakes (if desired). Serve hot over pasta or with thick toasted slices of bread.

Posted by Felicia D'Ambrosio @ 3:20 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
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Founded in October 2008, Meal Ticket is a City Paper blog about food, drink and assorted other things that make you go mmm. We do recipes, interviews, restaurant news, commentary and much more. We don't do restaurant reviews herethose are handled in print, mostly by our critic (and Meal Ticket contributor) Adam Erace. Got a tip, question, thought or concern? Just want to say hello? Please shoot a note to caroline@citypaper.net.

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