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THE MEAL TICKET INTERVIEW: Lior Lev Sercarz
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THE MEAL TICKET INTERVIEW: Lior Lev Sercarz
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When I got the word that chef Michael Solomonov of Zahav (247 St. James Place, 215-625-8800, zahavrestaurant.com) was hooking up with master spice blender Lior Lev Sercarz of NYC�s La Bo�te � Epices, it was like hearing that Batman had hooked up with Spider-man; that Bowie had linked up with Eno; that De Niro had hooked up with Pacino. OK, forget that last one. I hated Righteous Kill.
Anyway. The two old pals are doing a Night of Spice Dinner tonight, Thu., March 12. (Two seats are left for 9:30 p.m. � act fast!) Sercarz, who will be in attendance, will drop science on La Boite a Epices�s mad-glad secret spice blends. The five-course menu will showcase five different blends.
Sercarz is a both procurer of rare spices and a creator of new blends � 30 of them at present, with new ones coming all the time. He uses spices from around the world, mixing them into new forms for chefs/home cooks to allow them to play around of their own accord. �I have an inspiration when I create each spice, but have no specific purpose in my mind,� says Sercarz. �I want chefs to come up with their own recipes and their own inspirations, whether it�s for savory or for sweet.�
The expert aims to quell the fears of cooks who might not know enough about the range of spices and their delicate differences. �I think people are afraid of spices," he says. "There isn�t enough knowledge regarding that. But it�s a fantastic world, and I�ve taken it upon myself to promote that world, to give spices the proper glory they once had centuries ago.� It�s rewarding for him to see how 10 different people approach one spice with 10 different ideas.
In terms of tonight�s meal, Sercarz says he didn't share too many of his own opinions with Solomonov. �Michael and I come from similar backgrounds," says Sercarz. "We�re both inspired by the same elements. It was natural for us to work together. But these are his recipes and dishes, [and] I�m more than happy to be part of [it].�
Here�s the lineup of spice blends/dishes for tonight's dinner:
- Tangier No. 23 for duck rillettes and barbecue heart
- Amber No. 2 for Spanish mackerel confit, beets and labaneh
- Coquelicot No. 24 for Tasmanian sea trout, pumpernickel and mustard
- Sri Lanka No. 14 for wild boar, chestnuts and cranberries
- Yemen No. 10 for persimmon cake, raisin ice cream and almond milk.
The spice man breaks it all down after the jump.
Meal Ticket: What is Sercarz�s Tangier No. 23?
Lior Lev Sercarz: It�s a blend inspired by Moroccan cuisine. What characterizes that is the mix between sweet notes and savory ones � cinnamon and rose petals blending with elements of cumin, cardamom and different styles of peppers.
MT: Sri Lanka No. 14?
LLS: The idea behind it is the soft stick cinnamon. It�s not known to a lot of people. Most people know the Chinese kind. This is a much more fragrant kind, sweet, and floral even. The combination is very bright. The sweet and the anise flavors really come together. It can reflect northern African and Middle Eastern cooking, with some notes of the Far East.
CP: You�ve got two fish dishes here � Spanish mackerel and Tasmanian sea trout. What are the differences?
LLS: Amber No. 2 has a lot of smoky notes � there�s actual chilies in it, [and] a little brown sugar. The sweet and the smoky make for a very warm spice. Coquelicot No. 24 has a crunchy component � poppy seeds, lemon, celery. You can sense the element of texture within it.
CP: And the Yemen No. 10 for persimmon cake, raisin ice cream and almond milk?
LLS: There�s cinnamon � the Chinese kind � and ginger in it. It�s citrusy and fragrant. Goes well with dairy.
CP: Can�t wait.
LLS: Neither can I.
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