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Food News
As we told you in August, chef Jason Goodman's new menu at The Farmers' Cabinet (1113 Walnut St.) made its debut for Restaurant Week this past month. For those hungry and thirsty, F-Cab head bartender Phoebe Esmon has created a special list of cocktail pairings to go along with every option on Goodman's prix-fixe menu. Offered only during RW’s two-week run, the selection comprises concoctions named the Mystic Circle, the Procession of the Sage and The Charly Baltimore, all of which ring in at $12. After RW wraps up, she'll transition into the Cabinet's fall cocktail menu. Peep the full list of pairings after the jump.
Bartender John Boswell, who took over neighborhood tappie Corner Spot (2253 E. Clearfield Ave.) this past winter to convert it into Port Richmond Pour House, is not an unreasonable guy. But if you’re going to get lubed up at his bar, you have to be aware of the rules.
Most of PRPH’s 10 "House Rules," printed out and posted on the wall by the front door, are plain jane. (Click pic to enlarge.) The barkeep is king. Don't bother trying a beer if you're visibly sauced. Be respectful of neighbors. But then Boswell delves into atypical territory, stuff you normally don't read posted in public eyeshot at a neighborhood drinking establishment. "If you smoked wet today, don't ask for shit," intones Rule No. 7. Cool guy wanting to start a running tab? "Don't bother asking, we don’t care who you are." Abutting the Top 10, in oversize font, is a wholly separate and very straightforward disclaimer, granting bar staff carte blanche to toss out anyone they deem “riff raff, low-lifes, scumbags or just plain assholes."
Over the next few weekends, Brian Ricci (above) will be rolling out a new cool-weather menu at Queen Village saloon Kennett (848 S. Second St.). "The menu this fall reflects what folks responded to last fall [and] winter," says the chef and pizza maestro. "I wanted to gently prod our regulars who have come to trust us over the past 10 months, and I'm most looking forward to things like the pork loin-and-black pudding bundles. Maybe that's more than a gentle prod."
Chef Carmen Cappello, who opened The Wishing Well (767 S. Ninth St.) with longtime buddy Chris Martino in April 2010, is through cooking at the Bella Vista public house. He's no longer a partner in the business, either, and tells Meal Ticket he's also sold off his interests in his North South Meatery & Canning Co. product line and Smoke Truck mobile barbecue operation, both collaborations with local BBQ man Mark Coates. (No further details on the fates of either project just yet.) Cappello, who assures "everything is on good terms and friendships are intact," does have a potential opportunity in the pipe, but is not ready to discuss it publicly at this time. Meanwhile, the Well's new exec, Barry Hipple (bumped up from the chef de cuisine slot), launches his new menu tonight.
Photo: Drew Lazor
Elbowing your way into the always-stuffed-to-capacity Village Whiskey (119 S. 20th St.) typically requires patience, aggression, smooth-talking skills, patience, at least one cocktail at The Franklin, sprinting-friendly footwear and patience. Pour one out as an offering to the single-malt gods, then, that V-Dubs has decided to accept reservations for the duration of Restaurant Week. Though the first-come first-served Garces bar is not official RW participant, they will reserve tables for up to six heads between the hours of 5:30 to 10 p.m.; they'll book rezzies from today through Friday, Sept. 16, and from Sunday, Sept. 18 through Friday, Sept. 23. Call 215-665-1088 to give it a shot.
Photo: Drew Lazor
There was once a time when getting your picture on the wall at The Palm (200 S. Broad St.) was something you listed on your résumé. Now, the fusty honor is likelier to elicit eye rolls. So feel free to not care that the steakhouse chain is hanging a caricature of designer Nicole "My Three-Year-Old Son Eats Beluga with a Spoon" Miler this weekend. But here’s something you should care about: The Palm just turned 85 and Miller’s appearance coincides with a complete refresh for the brand. New leather-bound menus. New name-embroidered tan blazers for the servers. New salumi boards and housemade gelato, 18-ounce strip and warm doughnut. Good for them, better for us. We might even get DL's mug on the wall.
Photo: Michael T. Regan
Old City's Double Shots Espresso Bar (211 Chestnut St.), a frequent Meal Ticket haunt due both to its sweetheart staff and geographic proximity to City Paper HQ, has changed its name. It's now known as Customs Coffee House, perhaps to be more congruous with the always-bustling US Customs Services building directly across the street. Nothing about the menu or interior has changed, and luckily, you do not have to wait in line for 72 hours to get coffee like you do when you need your passport expedited.
The University City District, in coalition with Farm to City, kicked off the 2011 run of the Friday Farmers Market @ The Radian (3925 Walnut St.) today at 11 a.m. Running from today through Friday, November 18, the market pops up in front of the Radian building (home to Capogiro, City Tap House, Bobby's Burger Palace, etc.) from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The market's got two local vendors to start out — Biglerville, Pa.'s Knouse Fruitlands, offering produce like string beans, apples, peaches, tomatoes and squash; and Glen Mills, Pa.'s My House Cookies, hawking cookies, pies, scones and other sweets — but organizers may work in more seasonal options as we closer to Thanksgiving.
Chef Joey Chmiko's nationally hearted fried chicken caused plenty of panko-breaded ennui when it flew the coop at Resurrection Ale House (2425 Grays Ferry Ave.) this past winter. But perk up, pollo fanatics — RAH co-owner Leigh Maida tells Meal Ticket that the dish is on its way back. On Wednesday, Sept. 21, the bar will celebrate its second anniversary, and to mark the occasion Chmiko will serve nothing but fried chicken from opening till 5 p.m., after which point he'll crank out complimentary small bites for the crowd. Starting the next day, Sept. 22, "The chicken is back on the menu full-time," says Maida. "Maybe not forever, but for a while." For what it's worth, the team decided to yank the popular dish from rotation in the first place to remind people that there's plenty of other stuff to like on Chmiko's menu.
Photo: Zach Radel
Olivier Desaintmartin's Zinc (246 S. 11th St.) is getting a new chef the third week of September — Nanina Scriber, late of Alain Ducasse's Benoit in Midtown Manhattan, who's replacing Justin Bennett, now cooking with Brian Ricci at Kennett (848 S. Second St.).
Meanwhile, at Caribou Café (1126 Walnut St.), the Chopped-winning chef's other Center City establishment, Desaintmartin is is offering two bits of long-form dealage. The first is a 15 percent industry discount after 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and after 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; it's a summer promo he's carrying into fall. The second: Through the month of September, drop $20 and you'll get an order of steak frites, plus a wine or beer. For those seeking a fully immersive experience, Desaintmartin would like it to be known that Caribou will gladly accept Euros in lieu of U.S. dollars for the deal. "I'll give the difference to my waiters [to make up] for the tips the French don't leave them," jokes Desaintmartin, a native of Champagne. "Don't they study foreign customs before they travel?"
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