In his roundup of the 10 best new restaurants in the USA for the January issue of GQ , Alan Richman has had the good taste to hail Philadelphia BYOB Bibou (1009 S. Eighth St.) as number seven.ï¿½ The full article won't be available on GQ's Web site until tomorrow when it goes live at 9 a.m. EST, but we can tease the fact that Richman is a definite Francophile and enjoys the braised, foie-stuffed pigs' feet almost as much as we do.
Bibou joins such exalted company as Jose Andres' Bazaar in L.A. and big-ticket Italian Marea in Manhattan on the list, and is proof positive great cooking and atmosphere doesn't have to come with a liquor license.ï¿½ï¿½ So from GQ to you, Pierre and Charlotte, fï¿½licitations.
The January issue of GQ hits newsstands Dec. 22; read the article online here when it goes live Wed., Dec. 16 at 9 a.m. EST.
|Photo l Jessica Kourkounis|
|Octopus carpaccio with olives and citrus at Fish|
-- Can you guess the major difference between a big Fish and a Little Fish?ï¿½ Seems like the answer is chicken skin!ï¿½ And a liquor license. Trey Popp is lured by Mike Stollenwerk's Fish.
--ï¿½ David Snyder voyages north of Vine to CityView condos' newest restaurant tenant, NoVi.ï¿½ï¿½ Ingredients of suspicious origin, harassed service and "gnocchi heavy enough to bend space-time" make this one an unfortunate No Thanks.
-- Where can you go wild over radicchio, eat Christmas dinner like zee Parisians do, hobnob with the Slow Food Society and attempt to taste every fine holiday ale?ï¿½ Erin Mae Szrankowski reveals all in What's Cooking.
-- Tortilla Press Cantina gets a second shot at life and Zack's Cafï¿½ keeps it under $6 right now;ï¿½ WMD Hot Sauce and Green Eggs Cafï¿½ are still on the waiting list.ï¿½ Read all about it in Drew Lazor's Feeding Frenzy.
|April Saul, Inquirer Staff Photographer|
|Harry G. Ochs hefting a piece of his work|
Harry G. Ochs, Jr., butcher and owner of Ochs Prime Meats,ï¿½passed away Sun., Dec. 6 at the age of eighty.ï¿½ This much-loved elder statesman was often called "The Mayor of the Market" for his 50-plus years working in the Reading Terminal.ï¿½ Rick Nichols eulogizes him with great feeling in Monday's Inquirer; read it here.
A viewing will be held at Donohue Funeral Home (8401 West Chester Pike) in Upper Darby this Sun., Dec. 13 from 3-6 p.m.ï¿½ï¿½ On Mon, Dec. 14, a viewing (8:30-9:30 a.m.) and Mass (10 a.m.) will be held at St. Laurence Church (8245 West Chester Pike) in Upper Darby.ï¿½ A funeral lunch will be held at the Reading Terminal Market (12th & Arch) at 1 p.m.
In lieu of flowers, Mr. Ochs' family requests that donations be made to St. John's Hospice (1221 Race St., 215-563-7763), an organization serving homeless men that Mr. Ochs supported for many years.
|Photo | Mark Stehle|
- David Snyder visits Eric Paraskevas' terra and leaves impressed with the chef's creative streak and adaptability.
- Hub Bub Coffee is all the hotness with West Philly coffee fiends, and Trey Popp tells us why ï¿½ quite simply, they brew a mean-ass cup.
- In What's Cooking, Erin Mae Szrankowski has the skinny (term used loosely) on Latkepalooza, a chili battle, holiday baking classes and more.
- Feeding Frenzy's got notes on some new kids, including Drinker's West, the third Sang Kee and a new Fresh Grocer in North Philly.
- Over in our awesome DIY Holiday Gift Guide, Sue Miller of Birchun Hills Farm teaches our Felicia D how to make cheese tartlets from scratch and Scott Yorko rounds up the best food/drink gifts (mmm, phluff).
- In Loose Canon, Bruce Schimmel sits in on a different kind of Thanksgiving dinner ï¿½ the first one of its kind for 40 legal refugees from Myanmar.
IN PRINT: slow-cooked pasta, the vanishing food stamp stigma, a sustainable dining hall for a bigger movement, two bells toll for Fond
While the rest of us were stuffing face and then lying on the floor groaning about how Mom overfed us, hard-bitten food feature editors were still at it. Check out the highlights from the holiday weekend broadsheets:
Mark Bittman goes all Minimalist on an staple ingredient we thought couldn't get any simpler: pasta. His recipe for gemelli with chicken and mushrooms is slow-cooked by additions of stock, just like risotto, a process that liberates the pasta's starch to create a creamy, multi-dimensional sauce.
Elsewhere in th Times, The Safety Net continuing series takes a look at the federally funded Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), neï¿½ food stamps, a program once labeled "failed welfare" that is now assisting more than 36 million people, including one in eight adults and one in four children.
The Inquirer investigates last week's locally sourced sustainable Thanksgiving dinner at Philadelphia University'sï¿½ Raven Hall, an example of the growing movement of agricultural awareness and interest in local colleges.
Fond is bestowed a friendly two-bell review by an unnervingly jolly Craig LaBan, who lovingly describes his highlight dishes (like the thrice-cooked pork belly) and picks a few nits over dessert and an overdone chicken. With the ownership staff's average age at 27, looks like plenty of room for this BYO to grow on the Avenue.
|Photo | Jessica Kourkounis|
- Trey Popp is impressed with the cooking at the revamped Meritage, where chef Anne Coll is putting out refined, Asian-inspired food at neighborhood-friendly prices.
- Felicia D breaks down Lucid Food, a new eco-conscious cookbook from New York caterer (and Philly native) Louisa Shafia. She also caught up with the author for an extended Q&A you can check out here.
- All sorts of tidbits in Feeding Frenzy this week, from pho and burgers to word on forthcoming Szechuan, beer bistro and Japanese concepts.
- Over in Opinion, Bruce Schimmel chats with Buddhist chef/author Edward Espe Brown, who shares tips on how to keep peace in the kitchen on Thanksgiving.
|Photos | Mark Stehle|
If you picked up a copy of City Paper this week, you probably already peeped out our fall '09 Meal Ticket supplement, which features features, recipes and more. It's now online, so be sure to check out Felicia D's roundup of delicious fall dishes (featuring recipes from Fork and Sweetie's Pie Diner) plus her feature on the hot toddy, everyone's favorite chill-in-the-air beverage. Cheers!
[Leslie] Pope and John Wagner were hauled away by police and charged with theft for not paying the mandatory 18 percent gratuity totaling $16 after eating at the Lehigh Pub in Bethlehem, Pa. with six friends.
Pope claimed that they had to wait nearly an hour for their order and that she had to get napkins and silverware for the table herself.
After the $73 bill came, the group paid for food, drinks, and tax but refused to pay the tip. After explaining the bad service to the bartender in charge, Pope claimed he took their money and called police. The couple was handcuffed and placed in the back of a police car.
Arresting officers charged the two with theft, since the gratuity was considered part of the actual bill. Chang opined in the piece that the charge is unlikely to hold up in court, where the couple appear next month.
Seriously though, dinner for eight people ringing up to just $73 with tax?ï¿½ For that kind of deal, maybe you should be getting your own silverware and drink refills.
|Photo | Neal Santos
- We take you inside the meticulous and altogether meaty research process that produced Percy Street Barbecue, the new Texas-style venture from Steve Cook, Erin O'Shea and Michael Solomonov. Be sure to check out Neal Santos' excellent photo slideshow.
- Trey Popp finds that's there a whole lot to like about chef Joshua Noh's cooking at Paul, the unassuming BYOB on Pine Street.
- Erin Mae Szrankowski touches on Thanksgiving-themed goodness and more in this week's What's Cooking food events column.
- We fill you in on the latest openings in Feeding Frenzy ï¿½ check out the deets on Hawthornes, Vietnam Cafï¿½, Green Aisle and more.
|Photo | Jessica Kourkounis|
- Trey Popp digs the burgers, cocktails and stagecraft of Jose Garces' Village Whiskey (look at those truffled artichokes!), but can't look past the exorbitant per-ounce brown-liquor markups.
- David Snyder visits Tazia, formerly Ly Michael's in Chinatown, and is thoroughly confused by the mixed-up, multi-culti small-plates menu.
- So much to do this weekend as far as eating and drinking goes ï¿½ Erin Mae Szrankowski has details on Winter Beer Fest, a red gravy-off and more in What's Cooking.
- Joey's Stonefired Pizza, Con Murphy's and a handful of other projects are chronicled in the latest edition of Feeding Frenzy.
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