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In Print
-Adam Erace runs into some pacing issues during his first meal at The Farm and Fisherman (slow food two ways, he says), but ultimately finds plenty to love about the cooking at Joshua and Colleen Lawler's cerebral BYOB. Care for a bloody beet steak?
- Forks Over Knives is a compelling new documentary that advocates for a wholly plant-based diet as a strategy for literally reversing the effects of chronic ailments like diabetes and heart disease. Can a drastic, animal protein-free overhaul of one's diet truly have such a dramatic impact?
- In Feeding Frenzy: Details on brand-new openings Frankford Hall and La Copine, and word on two to-come operations, Hot Diggity! and Sumo Steaks.
- Plenty of food/drink events for Laurel Rose Purdy to preview in What's Cooking: a Dock Street bacon/beer dinner at Twenty Manning Grill, a big beer fest in the Great Northeast and more.
- Hop over to the Agenda section to read up on Shut Up & Dance, a dance fundraiser for the Metropolitan Area Neighborhood Nutrition Alliance (MANNA).
Photo: Neal Santos
Excited to announce that the Meal Ticket print magazine CP dropped this past Thursday is now online! Head right here to flip through the virtual pages, checking out pieces from Adam Erace, Brion Shreffler, Felicia D'Ambrosio and excellent photography from Neal Santos and Mark Stehle.
There should still be hard copies in CP honor boxes throughout Philly, but you can also snag a mag this Friday, May 20, inside any issue of Philadelphia Business Journal.
- First things first: Be sure you snag a print copy of City Paper today to get your hands on our first-ever full-color Meal Ticket magazine! The publication, whose debut we celebrated last night with a great event at Trust (pics from that to come), features long-form pieces from Felicia D'Ambrosio, Adam Erace and Brion Shreffler, awesome photography from Neal Santos, an up-to-date guide to Philly's farmers markets and more. The mag will be online soon (we'll update with a link), but in the meantime, be sure to snag a hard copy!
Elsewhere in the CP food section:
- Our resident supermarket product expert, Carolyn Wyman, takes a hard look at Tastykake products, comparing them to comparable snacks from Mrs. Freshley's — a brand owned by Georgia corp Flowers Foods, which recently purchased Tastykake outright. Will Flowers change our native sweets for the better or for the worse? Read on to find out how Tasty stacks up.
- Adam Erace visits Danny's Café on Snyder Avenue, a quaint breakfast/lunch spot that offers a mix of American and Southeast Asian specialties. Big endorsement for their Cambodian stews, hot weather notwithstanding.
- What's Cooking? Laurel Rose Purdy sums up a busy week in eats, from La Minette's French movie nights and a Collingswood restaurant crawl to this weekend's big ol' Italian Market Festival.
Photo: Neal Santos
- Adam Erace visits Mark and Eric Plescha, the undercover brothers who run the modern BYOB Charcoal in Yardley. The self-taught chefs, who took the restaurant over from their father, are using modern techniques to their best advantage. "Family and rebirth are the themes of Charcoal's story," says Erace, "and from the open, come-say-hi kitchen to the down-to-earth service, that sense of togetherness colors the dining experience."
- Author Jennett Conant — who's at the Free Library in Philly tonight — chronicles Julia Child's pre-cooking exploits in WWII espionage and black propaganda in her book A Covert Affair: Julia Child and Paul Child in the OSS. Though the book is far more political than culinary, it does offer some amazing insights into Mrs. Child — she was an experienced opium slinger, for example.
- In Feeding Frenzy, there's word on Spread Bagelry and a new Center City Saxbys Coffee, plus all sorts of other little vittles.
- Over in What's Cooking, Laurel Rose Purdy shares details on a jam-packed food/drink week: Check out details on a high-grav "beer goggles" dinner at Varga Bar, next week's Meal Ticket panel event (more on that here!), some Mother's Day ideas and more.
Photo: Neal Santos
- Adam Erace visits Fathom Seafood House, where Mike Stollenwerk and chef de cuisine Robert Holloway are putting the fish back in Fishtown. Though some of the heavier fare busted our critic's gut (after one meal, he "didn't sto much step out into the gun-shy spring sunlight as waddle"), he's loving the simple innovation of the menu, and the well-stocked raw bar, too.
- Well, Clarice ... have the marzipan lambs stopping screaming? Carolyn Wyman shares some background on the Sicilian Easter specialty so rare they're rationed. Two places in South Philly make them from scratch for the Easter season — Isgro's and Varallo Bros.
- In Feeding Frenzy, details on the brand-new Pure Fare, the coming-soon Sawatdee and several closings of note, including Fork & Barrel and Horizons (this summer).
- Laurel Rose Purdy has your food/drink agenda for the coming week in What's Cooking, including a seafood class at Oyster House, a fried chicken party at The Institute and other good stuff.
Photo: Jessica Kourkounis
- It took years for Café 943 to open its doors, but now it finally has, it's getting the Adam Erace treatment. Our critic leaves impressed by chef/owner Pascual Cancelliere's Argentine/Italian cooking style, especially his skill with the meaty bits.
- Legendary chef Jonathan Waxman, who's coming to Philly in a few weeks to cook at Osteria, has released a killer new cookbook — Italian, My Way.
- Feeding Frenzy has details on three brand-spankin'-new spots: Talula's Garden, OCF Coffee House and the West Philly location of Sweetgreen.
- Laurel Rose Purdy rounds up the best food/drink events of the week in What's Cooking — read for details on next week's Flying Fish beer dinner at The corner, a PIFA-curated guest chef appearance at Bistrot La Minette, an educational cheese workshop during the Philadelphia Science Festival and more.
- Outside the food section, in news: Holly Otterbein tells the story of the ubiquitous John Banks — "The Name for Stress-Free Grocery Delivery Since 1991" — and the controversy long-term he and other Italian Market fixtures are stirring up amidst Ninth Street's efforts to rebrand itself.
Photo: Neal Santos
- There are no flying plates and napkins to be found at Opa, the stylish new Midtown Village Greek eatery, but Adam Erace uncovers plenty to be jovial about. For starters: He's gone on record saying chef Andrew Brown's octopus is the best he's ever had.
- It's about damn time someone released The Encyclopedia of Sandwiches. Laurel Rose Purdy runs down Susan Russo's epic new tome dealing with all things betwixt bread.
- In What's Cooking, we've got info on a tasty Tex-Mex collab, a totally '80s dinner in South Philly (wedge salad holla!), info on a dollar empanada deal and more.
Photo: Neal Santos
In his latest opinion piece, New York Times food policy columnist Mark Bittman visits Philadelphia, where he tours town with The Food Trust and talks to Mayor Michael Nutter about his work securing whole-food access for Philadelphians on lower economic planes. "Philadelphia," he writes, "is figuring out its residents’ food needs and demonstrating that government and non-profits can lead the fight against diet-related diseases by putting real food into the hands of people — especially children — who have trouble finding and affording it."
Bittman goes on to detail several examples of local programming — the Healthy Corner Store Initiative, Philly Bucks, the state-spearheaded Fresh Food Financing Initiative and the controversial proposed soda tax among them — designed with Philadelphians' long-term health in mind. Read the entire column here.
For more with Bittman, check out our recent Q&A with him in Cowbell magazine.
Photo: cowbellmagazine.com
- Adam Erace visits Cantina Feliz, the Fort Washington Mexican restaurant from Distrito veterans Tim Spinner and Brian Sirhal. The food wows, even if the spot is situated at the corner of "GPS and Required" for all us city dwellers.
- Soil Kitchen, which we touched upon in our March 17 spring food issue, kicks off Friday. The FutureFarmers-helmed art installation dissects the topics of sustainability and urban agriculture through the whimsical lens of Cervantes' Don Quixote. There is also soup!
- Feeding Frenzy features details on four new openings: Gunners Run, Indian Restaurant, 1518 Bar & Grill and a new location for Erawan Thai Cuisine.
- Lots to do in What's Cooking this week: Laurel Rose Purdy shares info on a Japan benefit at Elixr, a swanky charity benefit honored Georges Perrier, Amis industry night featuring Prune's Gabrielle Hamilton and more.
Photo: Neal Santos
- Adam Erace sails from South Philly to Sicily at Monsù, the new Italian Market restaurant from Peter McAndrews (Modo Mio, Paesano's). Here, Siggi-by-blood chef Damien Messina does a wonderful job playing with all the atypical ingredients that characterize the singular cuisine of the oft-conquered isle — prickly pear, apricot, cocoa powder, couscous being but a few.
- The folks at Mondial Café mean well, they really do. But that's not enough to make the interminable experience at the Albanian-owned restaurant a fun one.
- In Feeding Frenzy this week: All the particulars on The Farmers' Cabinet, plus tidbits on Jolly's, James Beard love feor Philly and a new look for Ants Pants Café.
- Laurel Rose Purdy is at it again, rounding up all the sweetest food/drink events in What's Cooking: read on for details on this weekend's Scrapplefest and Oyster House shuck-off, plus two can't-miss chef-collab dinners.
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