Meal Ticket

Trey Popp, who's been our restaurant critic here at City Paper since 2006, is moving on to Philadelphia magazine but not before we got him to highlight his five most memorable CP food review experiences during his tenure here. We'll miss you, Trey! Take it away. "Is Trey Popp a pen name for Jeffrey Dahmer? Oh, that's right, Jeffrey Dahmer is dead. But his ghost lives in Trey Popp." Theres no counting the things for which I have City Paper to thank, but that letter to the editor is one Ill never forget. "What does Trey Popp have that I don't have, besides lack of morals?" its author asked. "I'm not even sure that he wouldn't eat a baby." Apparently that was just the sort of uncertainty City Paper hoped to inspire, because the story that gave rise to such passionate vitriol a description of the suckling pig at Pico de Gallo that made the uneasy reality of the dish perhaps a bit too palpable for some sensitive souls paved the way for another 136 columns over the next four years. Thanks for reading them. Thanks to Drew, and Ashlea Halpern before him, for publishing them. I couldnt ask for a better editor. Nor for a better publication to explore all the things I wanted to explore through the prism of food and restaurants. CP is getting a great new columnist in Adam Erace, but the reverse is more important than most people probably realize: He's getting a great new place to write. Drew asked me to put together five memorable columns in a parting Meal Ticket post. If memories alone were the sole criterion, that would be easy: Id base my picks on letter-writers and online commenters. After all, I have one of them to thank for the fact that I can now find my byline by Googling "Trey Poop." Thats memorable. But as fun as online combat is, Im grateful to CP for more than its engaging readers. It was also a place that had no qualms about letting a restaurant reviewer address issues ranging from cultural history to immigration policy to our sometimes pathological relationship to eating. None of these are the classic stuff of a restaurant review. You wont find them in the typical daily-newspaper restaurant column. But they are unquestionably relevant to eating in America, and Im proud to have been a part of a weekly paper that recognizes that. So in that vein, here are a couple columns that inspired spirited combat, and a few more that hopefully persuaded you that theres more to eating than the bite at the end of your fork.

1. Pico de Gallo Presentation turned out to be a slightly thorny issue. The visual effect of a whole piglet on a small platter serves to remind everyone that something not far removed from infanticide has taken place. One got the sense that the photographer was not thrilled with this assignment.

2. El Camino Real "Whether you like this place or not, one thing is clear: Trey 'Poop' is an incompetent and worthless reviewer." "I personally feel that this review is not a review but a bitching of snobbery." "disgusting, trashy article."

3. Garces Trading Company Pat Buchanan speared a fractal tuft of frisee from his Lyonnaise duck salad, catching a bacon lardon in its springy kinks. "You've got a wholesale invasion," he was saying, "the greatest invasion in human history, coming across your southern border, changing the composition and character of your country." The chicory crunched between his molars, slipping slightly where a poached egg yolk had slicked the white-green shoots. "Look," he went on. "They've got their own language, their own culture. They don't want to be Americans."

4. Table 31 I wondered if there had ever been a people that wasted good food so cavalierly as I had just done. My head grew light. The ancient Romans came to mind. "When we recline at a banquet," Seneca wrote, "one slave mops up the disgorged food, another crouches beneath the table and gathers up the leftovers of tipsy guests." At least I had not dined in a supine position, vomited or availed myself of a table slave.

5. Chifa In 1943, the Chinese anthropologist Fei Xiaotong visited Washington as a guest of the U.S. State Department. After tiring of formal visits with "gray-haired people all day," he went with an American colleague to a Chinese restaurant. What he found there astonished him.

Tweets that mention A Tasty Bon Voyage: Outgoing CP critic Trey Popps five most memorable reviews :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper -- Topsy.com

Posted 2010-07-23 18:24:39

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City Paper's new restaurant critic: Hi, my name is ...

POSTED: Wednesday, July 21, 2010, 5:23 PM

Filed Under: Meal Ticket

Slim Shady. No, its Adam Erace. You might remember me from such publications as: Philadelphia Style, the Courier-Post and, lately, Philadelphia Weekly, where I served as the restaurant critic for nearly three years. Starting today, a new entity assumes responsibility for my calcified arteries, alcoholism and impending adult-onset diabetes: City Paper! Im their new reviewer and Meal Ticket contributor. For this, City Paper has generously agreed to subsidize all future medical bills. They just dont know it yet. In agreeing to write for City Paper and Meal Ticket, your boy has done two things: (1) acquired the challenge of filling the very large shoes of Trey Popp (not to mention the very stylish pumps of Felicia D.) and (2) branded himself a party jumper at best and a traitor at worst. Were this Tudors-era Britain, Id be executed for high treason like some Luther-lovin' ho. Fortunately, we live in more civilized times, but before the gossip starts, Id like to take this opportunity to put speculation to rest as to why I am no longer with PW. Unfortunately, my boss had discovered that Id forged my résumé from a how-to book, fudging work experience and a Vassar degree, desperate faced with having to financially support my three brothers and sister after our babysitter died while my mother was on vacation in Australia. Mama Celeste face up, and thats the way it goes. I have some lingering guilt, but on the real, Im excited as Jessie Spano to tackle the City Paper food section like a QED report. The editing is tight, the writing bites and Meal Ticket gets more scoops than a fat kid at an ice cream parlor. I plan to ride the coattails of Drew Lazors Top Chef recaps to a guest judging spot on the still-only-existing-in-my-imagination Philadelphia season. I have nearly perfected Gails trademark expression of amused disgust. EDITOR'S NOTE: Many of you are aware that Adam, along with his brother Andrew, own and operate Green Aisle Grocery at 1618 E. Passyunk Avenue in South Philly. Through his business, he's struck up relationships with a number of local purveyors, chefs and restaurateurs Green Aisle stocks products from Zahav, James, Pub & Kitchen and Fond, to name a few. To avoid any critical malfeasance, Adam will refrain from reviewing any establishment with whom he works via Green Aisle, as well as any establishment within the immediate vicinity of his store. These reviews will be handled by Elisa Ludwig, who has been doing a bang-up job filling in during this transitional period. Adam's first print review will appear on August 5.

kibby

Posted 2010-07-21 12:31:28

Woot Woot! Congrats Adam! Yay!!!!!

Anthony Sica

Posted 2010-07-21 12:36:00

Fantastic addition to CityPaper and Mealticket. Between Green Aisle and one liners that would make Lisa Lampenelli blush, Adam is one of the coolest people on the Philly food scene and it is great to see him with CP.

Michelle

Posted 2010-07-21 12:37:12

This is so exciting! I look forward to reading the reviews and awesome Meal Ticket posts - recipes please!!!

Tweets that mention City Papers new restaurant critic: Hi, my name is :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper -- Topsy.com

Posted 2010-07-21 12:45:40

[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by Philly City Paper, Eric Paraskevas and Allie Harcharek, Meal Ticket. Meal Ticket said: Introducing @citypaper's new restaurant critic, @adamerace: http://bit.ly/biBVx8 [...]

Philly Grub

Posted 2010-07-21 12:53:49

Looking forward to adding yet more restaurants on my "to-go" list. Congrats Adam!

Joy Manning

Posted 2010-07-21 13:40:38

Love Adam's work, love Drew's work, love City Paper, love Meal Ticket. You people will be unstoppable with all this talent under one roof!

Molly Eichel

Posted 2010-07-21 15:17:41

Don't Tell Mom the Babysitter's Dead reference? +10.

Neal

Posted 2010-07-21 16:25:33

Can't wait to photograph your leftovers.

Holly Moore

Posted 2010-07-21 16:32:12

Congrats.  The City Paper reviewers keep getting better and better.

Collin

Posted 2010-07-22 01:23:34

This couldn't be better.

Sour Patch Kid and Festina Pecherace working together? Awesome.

Posted by Adam Erace @ 5:23 PM Permalink | Post a comment

Boo, Mondays.

POSTED: Monday, July 19, 2010, 3:18 PM

Filed Under: Meal Ticket

Due to the impending deadline of a big food story all you Meal Ticketers will definitely enjoy, we're gonna have to sit today out, folks. We'll be back with Notes from the Weekend and all sorts of other bloggy goodies tomorrow morning. [feebly conceived lasagna joke]

ryan

Posted 2010-07-21 10:37:21

im not too fond of tuesdays either.

PhillyChitChat

Posted 2010-07-21 12:07:10

I guess you hate Wednesdays too. It must be this week. I put up two lame posts the last two days.

Drew Lazor

Posted 2010-07-22 02:53:49

I've been getting my ass kicked this week, HughE!

Ticket Stubs: Meal Ticket Weekly Recap, July 19-23 :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper

Posted 2010-07-23 21:33:56

[...] Bit of a slow start this week on Meal Ticket  we were busy writing this cover story about Philly pizza! [...]

Posted by Drew Lazor @ 3:18 PM Permalink | Post a comment

Ticket Stubs: Meal Ticket Weekly Recap, July 12-16

POSTED: Saturday, July 17, 2010, 1:05 AM

Filed Under: Meal Ticket | Ticket Stubs

Monday, July 12 Korean fried chicken crops up at Meritage. Not the healthiest eatin' weekend for us the foie gras poutine, chicharrones and bone marrow that showed up in Notes from the Weekend prove it. Tuesday, July 13 Latest candy obsession: Jolly Rancher Fruit Chews. Happy Hour Hopper pays a visit to Sampan's Graffiti Bar. Kanella's Konstantinos Pitsillides is cooking food from the Levant for the next Starr pop-up. Wednesday, July 14 Bodhi Coffee and Green Aisle Grocery are teaming up for maximum local/sustainable power. Lucky Old Souls, the long-awaited bar/music venue in Newbold, will have a liquor license hearing on Aug. 4. Show up! Thursday, July 15 This "Maine Event" seafood/beer dinner at fish sounds amazing. Think you could take on the "5-lb. Philly Challenge" at Jake's Sandwich Board? Starr culinary director Chris Painter shares a few details about his upcoming restaurant, Il Pittore. Episode 5 of Top Chef D.C. features a crab challenge, plus Eric Ripert in an American Apparel circle scarf ... Friday, July 16 Jose Garces releases the names of his upcoming taco truck and beer/brats spot. Quick look at Mumbai Bistro, opening this coming Wednesday.

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Posted 2010-07-17 02:48:09

[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by You Post, Meal Ticket. Meal Ticket said: Ticket Stubs: Meal Ticket weekly recap, July 12-16 http://bit.ly/duAkc9 [...]

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Now Serving: Lil' Pop Shop
Notes from the Weekend: June 17
Rock Star cheese dinner at Di Bruno's
Happy National Martini Day!
Afternoon Snacks: Party Pizza, Empellon joins tumblr, Giant bibimbap (!), Snickerdoodle cobbler
Vetri opening in the Navy Yard, plus a nod to Le Bec
Dolcissimo! Pastry classes with Le Virtu's Angela Ranalli
The Lite Choice Opens Flagship Store on 16th Street between Walnut & Locust
Gone Fishin'
Free stuff for Father's Day

About this blog

Founded in October 2008, Meal Ticket is a City Paper blog about food, drink and assorted other things that make you go mmm. We do recipes, interviews, restaurant news, commentary and much more. We don't do restaurant reviews here — those are handled in print, mostly by our critic (and Meal Ticket contributor) Adam Erace. Got a tip, question, thought or concern? Just want to say hello? Please shoot a note to caroline@citypaper.net.

Follow team Meal Ticket on Twitter:

@mealticket | @carolinerussock | @adamerace

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