Top Chef

POSTED: Tuesday, November 30, 2010, 6:02 PM
Filed Under: Chef Salad | Food Events | Food TV | Top Chef
Check out the premiere of Top Chef All-Stars in style tomorrow, Dec. 1, at 10 Arts (Ritz-Carlton, 10 S. Broad St.). Take in the festivities with 10 Arts chef de cuisine/Top Chef Las Vegas finalist/Top Chef All-Star contestant Jennifer Carroll (above) and 10 Arts culinary director/silver fox Eric Ripert as they meet/greet guests in the restaurant and lounge throughout the evening. In addition to 10 Arts' a la carte menu, guests can choose to experience chef CarrollÂ’s $75 five-course tasting menu of her favorite dishes from her first run on Top Chef, including halibut with black pepper bourbon sauce, the first dish she made on the show. As a refresher, guests will be able to watch episodes from Carroll's season on flat-screens throughout the restaurant leading up to the premiere of All-Stars at 10 p.m. Enjoy complimentary tastes of the chef's favorite whiskey cocktail and enter to win the grand prize of the night: a DVD set of Top Chef Las Vegas, a 10 Arts gift certificate and a complimentary overnight stay at the Ritz-Carlton. Ripert will also be signing copies of How to Cook Like a Top Chef, as well as his new book, Avec Eric: A Culinary Journey with Eric Ripert. The party gets under way at 7 p.m.

SNACK TIME: Regional food treats, 10 Arts is Philly!, Up the punx, Holy pierogies, OK NO :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-12-01 15:43:47
[...] RIP Bruce Nichols, Philly Beer Week founder• EAT THIS IMMEDIATELY: Soondubu at Giwa• Tomorrow: Top Chef All-Stars premiere party at 10 Arts• Earn Extra Credit at The Franklin• Dec. 13: Chefs Sam Jacobson and David Ansill crash [...] 

poncho
Posted 2010-11-30 13:22:00
The grand prize seems like a sweet deal! Anyone know how much the gift certificate is worth?
Posted by Anthony Sica @ 6:02 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Thursday, September 16, 2010, 9:46 PM
Filed Under: Chef Salad | Food TV | Top Chef

I'm spoiling this rightrightright now so go away and hide if you don't wanna a spoonful of spoiler.

Our dude Kevin Sbraga, the Willingboro native who we've been calling Jersey Kev on this blog since Day 1, took home Season 7 of Top Chef like a damn boss! And Brendan Fraser goes WILD! I'll be honest — as I touched on last week, I had this weird feeling that the sensationalized treatment of fellow finalist Angelo's freak ailment in the episode previews was something of a death knell for both Kev and New York-based chef Ed — what better storyline for the drama-guzzling sluts of the Bravo network than a lanky, peculiar half-Dominican chef rising from the dead on his Latino Lazarus grind to outcook two competitors not afflicted by unidentified Southeast Asian parasitic invasion?! I'm glad they didn't go there, I'm glad I was wrong, and most of all, I'm glad that this season's belt — unlike some otherrrrrr seasons — was scooped up not only by a chef who represented well in the final challenge, but did his thing throughout the span of the always-preposterous Top Chef season, as well. This final episode began with the transcendently beautiful Padma revealing that the remaining threesome would be randomly, knife-drawingly paired with three past Top Chef winners — Season 2's Ilan, Season 3's Hung (my dude! with the beast chicken game!) and last year's winner, Michael Voltaggio — who would serve as sous chefs. Ilan, who can be seen bitching at a Singaporean tailor about a suit in this video, ends up with Ed, Jersey Kev lands Michael V. (they're actually boys from back in the day) and Angelo, who as we know very well is a highly skilled Asiaphile who likes to talk about getting physically intimate with his ingredients (c'mere, you sexy geoduck, you!) is paired with mymanpotsandpans Hung. "I'm in Asia, I'm in the finals and I get Hung," he exclaims. "This is the trilogy." No, this is the trilogy, Ang (did he mean trinity?). Though I did like your chances a whole, whole lot at this point.

Tom C, who seems very relaxed and jovial in this hemisphere (perhaps the tropical climate feels nice on his chromedome?) and your mom's favorite Gallic silver fox, Eric Ripert, hit up some markets to supply ingredients for the chefs' final challenge — to cook the best four-course meal (dessert REQUIRED!) of their lives. Each must do a veggie, fish, meat and sweet course, using identical components. Singapore is the world's number one exporter of Boo Berry, so obviously that's a priority. They also pick up rouget, cuttlefish, pork belly, black cockles (so hot right now) and slipper lobster. For what it's worth, this picture came up when I Google-Image-searched slipper lobsters out of curiosity:

The three finalists kick with their sous (souses?) before the competition, and this is when Angelo first announces he's not feeling so hot. The next morning, Ed and Jersey Kev head to prep, but Angelo is so ill he can't even get up; he deathbed-whispers instructions to Hung over the phone, and then a doctor comes and visits him and sticks him with an antibiotic ass injection the physician informs him has about a "3 percent chance" of working. OK I'm not a doctor but I'm pretty sure that dude just made that up. Watch how easy: When I leave work today, I have a "100 percent chance" of drinking whiskey. Alright bad example, that's wholly accurate. Anyway, the shot seems to work on our dude, as he springs back up and dramatically re-enters the kitchen, Willis Reed-style, just in time for the big day. Silver living: The mystery ailment gave him a bit of time to catch up on all that reading he's been slacking on!

The chefs and their assistants (Kev/Mike and Ang/Hung work together great, while Ilan seems to want to stick his nose in Ed's bidness a bit) put out their food for a group of esteemed diners, including a bunch of prominent Asian restaurateurs/chefs and prominent Asian-American chef/malcontent David Chang. First course: Kev does a veg terrine (Chang thinks that it "takes a lot of balls" to start with that); Angelo puts out pickled mushrooms with homemade noodles and char siu bao pork belly; and Ed rocks a corn veloute that Ripert le loves (shocker!). Second: Kev with the seared rouget/cuttlefish noodles/pork belly; Ang with an Asian-style bouillabaise; and Ed with a bacon-wrapped lobster and a stuffed rouget ("I need a user manual," Singaporean street food expert Seetoh says of the super-complicated presentation). The third course sees Kev with a duck breast/dumpling/bok choy plate; Angelo with a crazy-ambitious duck/foie/gras/cinnamon marshmallow concoction; and Ed gets Blalicchio style with it, doing a duck duo.

FINALLY — and I think this is the course that really put Jersey Kev over the top, solid — Kev rocks a crazy-colorful, inspired "Singapore Sling 2010" (right), a tropical-fruity dessert version of the cocktail; Angelo puts out a bordering-on-savory Thai jewel shaved ice; and Ed — oh Ed, Ed, Ed — cedes his dessert duties to Ilan, who puts together a dull and confusingly received sticky toffee pudding. ("It's sort of like a fuck you," Chang says of the dish, though he was laughing and meant it as a compliment. Chang! Keeps 'em guessing!) The judges have kind words for each of the cheftestants and their dishes, but it's clear early on that Ed is out of the running based on his overwrought meat course and phoned-in Ilan pudding. (Ed gets weird and defensive about the dessert course at judges' table, too, which really seals his fate.) Angelo earns plenty of praise, but Tom C and others feel his courses needed work. That leaves our dude Jersey Kev, who is able to execute his vision in a cohesive fashion, with flavors, plating and innovation — they fawn over his dessert in a manner that probably has all the Top Chef: Just Desserts contestants real salty right now — humming along in equal stead. Good on ya, Kev! The guy is currently hunting for a local restaurant space to start his own spot. Hope to hear more about this soon. Also very excited to learn, via that interview, that he regrets the baby food Quickfire. First of all, thanks to everyone for putting up with these ridiculous recaps for another season. Now I wanna hear your opinions: Did the right chefs make the finals? What'd you think of the finale? Did the right man win? Let me know in the comments. Till next season!


Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-17 09:28:27
I feel you, J, but the judges are pretty clear chefs are only as good as their last meal. It's an arbitrary rubric for sure, one that lets someone like Josea squeak in as the winner. It really does come down to that last challenge, who makes the best meal of their life. That said, I think Kev's cooking is way more deserving of the Top Chef crown than Josea's.

Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-17 09:38:23
There wasn't much about Ed's dessert debacle that wasn't strange. Even if he delegated the course to Ilan, a weird decision in the first place, you'd think someone would stop and say, 'Well, we're in Singapore, and it's a hundred-and-fucking-one degrees out, and maybe sticky toffee pudding isn't the best idea." That's where Kev sealed it; his Singapore Sling 2010 is exactly the kind of refreshing humidity-cutter you want to eat in that sticky island setting. 

Why did Ed bring up lemon curd in his comments to the judges? That's about as hard to make as Tollhouse Cookies.

And I've gotta agree with Terry; I love Gail, but she's not Transcendently Beautiful like Padma. Transcendently Girl Next Door, perhaps. Canadian Girl Next Door.

M.E.
Posted 2010-09-17 11:46:14
Nice to see some hometown pride, but my girl Tiffany woulda killed it in chef-to-chef combat. She owned every time they let her play to her strengths. But, it's ok because I think she's got fan favorite in the bag. No one else was nearly as likable. Thoughts, other commenters?

Kevin Sbraga
Posted 2010-09-17 13:08:26
Are you serious? You don't have better question?

Terry B McNally
Posted 2010-09-17 00:53:43
I like Gail a lot but Padma she's not.  I had a hard time listening to her voice for that long!

Terry
Posted 2010-09-16 17:04:29
Yup-Bravo finally had some Jersey that made the state look good.  Kevin snuck up on us and by last week I was over the asshole Ed wo Tiffany, reminding me of Nicolas Cage, and I've been a restaurant owner long enough to know a drug addict when I see one, Angelo.

PhilaFoodie
Posted 2010-09-16 20:43:52
Did anyone else notice that Ed s complete delegation of the dessert course to Ilan did not come up at Judge s Table?  Perhaps they edited it out, and I do give Ed credit for owning the dessert at Judge s Table.  But had Ed won, the fact that he did not have the bandwidth to conceive the entire meal himself would have have put a cloud over his title and the credibility of the show itself.  Given his ailment, the same is true of Angelo.  There are as-of-yet undiscovered tribes in the Transvaal Basin that know Hung carried Angelo to the finish line on his back.  And whose charitable comments did Bravo use to narrate many of Angelo s darkest moments?  Our man, Jersey Kev.  Thanks to Bravo's unsubtle editing, that s how you knew he won.  But a well-deserved win it was.

What, no recaps of Top Chef: Just Desserts? Don t make me wait until next season, bro! Is Gail Simmons not transcendentally beautiful as well?

Anthony Sica
Posted 2010-09-16 20:48:18
When I talked with Jersey Kev back in August, he told me " Stay Tuned". Glad I did. The day Kenny went home, Kev won this title. Great guy, great chef. Hope he comes to Philly with his new restaurant.

j leo
Posted 2010-09-17 04:19:03
Look, I don't want to take anything away from Kevin, who came on strong late and shone in the finale. Props to him. He did great in Signapore and I will try to get to his place the next time I'm back east. And it's always nice to see Philly / Jersey represented.

However....

Can you really tell me he was the best chef there, especially throughout the year? I don't remember him winning any challenges before the last 3 episodes. I seem to remember him being on the bottom a few times, and in the middle a lot. I haven't tallied up the total wins from this season (I hope you have that data somewhere), but I have to think he rates below Tiffany, Angelo, Ed, and probably Kelly for actual wins in quickfires and challenges. Maybe even Kenny. I know that's not how they decide things, and that it's week-to-week, but it seemed really unexpected compared to last season. Last season, I was so happy that the people who made the finale had established themselves as the best chefs throughout the season. I'm still surprised that Kevin was there at the end. He stepped up when it counted, yes, but I hate to say that he's one of the more forgettable winners.

BTW, I think the desserts show will make up for our lack of Arnold. Diva power!

BrianW
Posted 2010-09-16 17:08:57
I called Jersey Kev's win early on in the episode and was super excited to be right about that one (despite the fact that I'm still miffed about my main girl Tiffany not ending up in the finals). 

As a side note, despite Ilan's escalating doughy-ness (sooo evident in that suit-buying video), I still want to gay marry him forever and ever amen.

Mandy Bee.
Posted 2010-09-17 00:23:37
Top Chef: Just Desserts already seems slow, over-edited, and boring. While I certainly wouldn't mind a Lazor recap each week, this spin-off probably won't hold a candle to Top Chef in any way.

poncho
Posted 2010-09-17 13:33:00
Top Chef: Just desserts was boring - I lost interest & stopped watching it.  I love Gail but the real problem is Johnny Iuzzini

Restaurant Week Pick for Sept. 21: Fuji :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-09-21 14:32:09
[...] off your bill at guilty favorite The Black Horse Diner and a $35 opportunity to see our boy, Top Chef D.C. winner Kevin “Jersey Kev” Sbraga, at Rat’s in Hamilton one last time.   Restaurant Week [...] 

j leo
Posted 2010-09-17 04:25:05
Sorry, one more point - I just saw the link to season 5, which I agree was disappointing, with Josea winning. Funny, that's exactly who I was gonna compare Kevin to, except I couldn't remember his name (for a reason). Like Josea, he did fine and acceptable but was never really great or on top until the end. I think this season is like that, but maybe I'm too harsh on Kev.

Drew Lazor
Posted 2010-09-17 01:02:17
Great commentary man! I honestly think that Ed saying Ilan handled the dessert himself would've been better than what was shown, with him basically saying, "I could've fucked up if I had taken a risk, do you really want me to do that?" But you're right, I don't doubt that they touched on that point at least once during judging and it just didn't make the final cut.

Doing these recaps causes me so much undue strife and hand-wringing that I just don't think I could make a Top Chef Just Desserts recap schedule part of my weekly grind. And yes, I realize how lame complaining about Photoshopping Tamesha's head onto Rihanna's body is.

Michelle
Posted 2010-09-17 13:38:29
I cannot believe you are comparing Kevin to Hosea! Kevin rocked it and deserved to win whereas Hosea should have been sent packing way before the finale

Michelle
Posted 2010-09-17 13:58:00
Whoa! Jersey Kev calling out PSN for a ridiculous comment on a Top Chef recap? I think this just made my day!

Jillian
Posted 2010-09-17 08:24:14
Okay, I know what my cat is being for halloween.

I'm really happy Kevin won (but come on, we all knew it when he quit Starr so quickly). However, this was the first season I really wasn't pulling for anyone. Maybe its just me, but I did not think the talent was on par with other seasons.

Great recaps Drew!!

Phyllis Stein-Novack
Posted 2010-09-17 08:30:56
Michael Klein's article in Friday's Inquirer states Kevin and his wife named their new son Kevin Angelo and he will be called Angelo. I'm wondering...did they do this in honor of Angelo Sosa? Welcome thoughts on this.

Drew Lazor
Posted 2010-09-17 12:00:31
I checked, and statistically, Hosea and Kevin were pretty similar...Kevin was @ the top more than Hosea, but Hosea won more Eliminations. So that's definitely a good point. Perhaps this is geographic bias talking, but I really just enjoyed seeing what Kevin came up with this season moreso than what we saw Hosea cook.
Posted by Drew Lazor @ 9:46 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Monday, September 13, 2010, 6:30 PM
Get the flash player here: http://www.adobe.com/flashplayer
If you’re a food nerd like me, you can’t watch Top Chef without screaming obscenities at the contestants while peacefully pondering what you’d whip up for Transcendently Beautiful Padma each Quickfire. If a case of backseat cooking is what ails ya, dig this fresh weekly column featuring recipes based on each TCQF. Let me preface this NSQF by saying that, no, I still do not know who was axed from Top Chef this week. I was so beat Wednesday night and passed out just after the chefs rocked woks for the Quickfire and Jersey Kev called shotgun on cockles for his Elimination Challenge protein. In this NSQF, I honor J.K., my maybe-fallen, maybe-not comrade, with a cockle and calamari stir-fry that gets its numbing heat from the mysterious Sichuan peppercorn. Wok cooking is so fast, so furious. Ingredients are added in intervals that can last a few seconds or a few minutes — this recipe takes less than 10 — so it's best to have all prep done before cooking begins. Mis-en-place bowls bring control to the chaos; just arrange them alongside the stove in the order you’ll need them.

Sichuan Cockle & Squid Stir-Fry

Go Get This: 1/2 lb. cleaned squid, rinsed and cut into rings 1/2 lb. cockles, purged* 1 lb. dragonÂ’s tongue beans (or another, not-as-badass variety) 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 stalks lemongrass, minced, or lemongrass paste 1 small knob ginger, julienned 2 tbsp. Sichuan peppercorns, toasted and ground 1 lime, juiced 1/4 cup tamari or soy sauce 1 tbsp. canola oil 1 cup cilantro leaves, chopped Salt and pepper, to taste Now Do This: Place the wok over high heat and add oil. Once the oil is rippling, add the garlic, ginger and lemongrass. Saute 30 seconds, then add the Sichuan pepper and cilantro root. Saute an additional 30 seconds, then add the beans, tamari and lime juice. Saute 2 minutes, then add the calamari. Saute another minute, then add the cockles. Saute till the cockles open, about 2 minutes, add the cilantro, toss and serve. * Most cockles available at your neighborhood fishmonger are farmed, which eliminates a lot of the sand and grit. Still, I always purge them by soaking the bivalves in a bowl of cold water with a handful of kosher salt (and cornmeal if IÂ’ve got it around). Leave them in the fridge for and hour or so, and the cockles will expel any residual sand hiding inside. (This also works for mussels and clams.) And as always, discard any that donÂ’t open after cooking. TheyÂ’re as dead as anyone who drops spoilers in the comments.

Cast Iron Steak Weight. Sold Individually | Cast Iron Cookware Sets Reviews
Posted 2010-09-17 14:11:44
[...] Top Chef N&#959t S&#959 Quickfire: Wok-a Wok-a :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Pape... [...] 
Posted by Adam Erace @ 6:30 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Monday, September 13, 2010, 5:11 PM
Filed Under: Food TV | Top Chef
This recap is so late because I've spent the last 96 hours staring at this picture of Angelo doing the lambada with Singaporean fruit. And just like that, Top Chef D.C. is one episode shy of calling it a season, a single judge's table away from taking its perch in the pantheon of Google Image Search randomness and confusing lunch-hour chatter ("Which season was it when the dude kept talking about having sex with his food? That was the one with Hung, right? No no, the funny Italian dude. No? Santino?"). Let's take a quick stroll down Mindless, Braincell-Killing Recap Memory Lane, shall we? Episode 1. Too many people. Na'Vi John goes home. Episode 2. Cooking for a bunch of brats. Jacqueline goes home. Episode 3. Pic-a-nic baskets/caskets. Tracey goes home. Episode 4. Baby food, foreal?! Arnoldface goes home. Episode 5. Crabs and farms. Tim goes home. Episode 6. This is probably the worst recap of the season. Tamesha goes home. Episode 7. Cooking for gay-hating cutiepie congressmen. Andrea goes home. Episode 8. Ethiopian and offending ethnic sensibilities. Stephen goes home. Episode 9. Restaurant Wars! Kenny Blalicchio goes home. Episode 10. Cooking for good-natured spies. Alex goes home. Episode 11. Feeding miserable Nats fans. Amanda goes home. Episode 12. Cooking for astronauts (and Bourdain). Tiffany goes home.
So that leaves us with a final four — Angelo, Kelly, Jersey Kev and Ed (solid bunch) — travelling to Singapore, Top Model style, for the finale. The cheftestants meet up in a food hawker's center (Kev's rocking a bucket hat; Ed asks him if he's about to embark on safari) and are soon greeted by Tom C. and the Singaporean food writer KF Seetoh, who is such an advocate for Asian street food that he has nary a poor word to say about the chef's food throughout the episode. He takes them to a bunch of stalls, where they get to grub on absolutely amazing-looking good like chili crabs (above). Ed takes every opportunity to stick it to Angelo because that's what Ed does best (did you really think mentioning your taste for black cockles would be a good look, Ang?) Everyone is smiling and having fun and excited to take in the local culture. Then ...
... the transcendently pant-suited Padma materializes! Though she's dressed as if she's about to dispatch a bunch of knife-wielding thugs with a bo stick, she's actually there to drop the penultimate ep's Quickfire: The foursome has to cook a street food-style dish with a wok, a tool that Jersey Kev has never actually tried out. Crazy twist, too: For the first time ever, winning this Quickfire will grant the cheftestant unfettered passage to the finale. Stakes is high! Angelo goes for a chili crab but switches it up to frog's legs at the last sec; Kelly does a seafood noodle dish; Ed, who "likes to wok it out on the weekends" at his house, puts together his own noodle stir-fry; and wok virgin Kev does up a curry with lobster, calamari and cuttlefish. Seetoh shows so much love to to the chefs that he stops just short of singing this song, but in the end, Hobbyist Wok Fiend Ed punches his ticket to the finals for "lifting up the entire street food sensation" for the dude Seetoh.
The transcendently plucky Stacey Carosi
Elimination: Dana Cowin, ever the diligent wine swirler, brings 80 or so of friends to a posh-ass beachfront resort to eat and engage in droll conversation while the final four freak the hell out in the kitchen because the waitstaff keeps writing their a-la-minute order tickets in Chinese. "The spark in the forest has been set, and those flames are going to be burning," declares Angelo. I feel like that's a combination of like five different sayings/ The servers are all wearing crisp polo shirts and have no clue what they're doing, one of several eerie similarities between this episode and the Malibu Sands Beach Club arc on Saved by the Bell. (Where is Stacey Carosi when you need her?!) The judges, who include Seetoh, Cowin and our girl Gail, are generally blown away by the quality of all the food put out (Gail yells the title of this post at judge's table, and immediately follows it up by dropping the term "taste-a-licious." Foreal.)
Tom C with Hissy, his trusted Cobra Bong
Angelo does a spicy shrimp broth, plus a lamb tartar with nice flavors ("It makes me want to eat it," says Cowin. Well, that's great!). Ed puts together a duo of sweet and sour pork, plus banana fritters Tom C describes as "the perfect stoner food," right before he burns a Backwoods, tosses in some eyedrops, aimlessly wanders into a Singaporean convenience mart and spends 27 Singapore dollars on Singaporean gummi bears. Kelly's cucumber/yogurt/bitter melon soup is well-received, as is her prawn-flavored red curry. Jersey Kev imrpresses, too, with a clam chowder starter and a well-executed tapioca congee porridge. So, just like the Tiffany elimination, it's down to nit-picking to decide who's shipped stateside and who gets to keep kicking it in the super-clean city-state. Kelly, who I picked in Episode 1 to get quite far, is sent home. Tears! She really rocked it out. Before we talk Finale Part 2, let me draw your attention to her crestfallen losing pic on bravotv.com:
Don't you think that could totally be her album cover shot if she quit cooking and decided to pursue a career as an adult contemporary singer-songwriter?
Sorry. OK Top Chef fans — who's winning this season?! I would absolutely love to see our dude Jersey Kev take it home, but I for some reason have the sinking feeling that Angelo's gonna walk away with the chip, given his Asian expertise. Though in the previews it looks like he's stricken with dengue fever or something. Thoughts? Leave your pick and your reasoning in the comments!

adam
Posted 2010-09-14 09:55:31
So happy to see Stacey Carosi in this recap!

Top Chef Not So Quickfire: Wok-a Wok-a :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-09-13 13:31:44
[...]  [...] 

Molly Eichel
Posted 2010-09-13 12:30:03
Greatest Generation Ed will take it all. And then he will sleep with Angelo's girlfriend ... again.

Ticket Stubs: Meal Ticket Weekly Recap, Sept. 13-17 :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-09-20 08:01:32
[...] Recap of the penultimate Top Chef D.C. episode finds the final four battling it out in Singapore. [...] 

Eat This Immediately: Pawpaws :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-09-14 14:35:17
[...]  [...] 

poncho
Posted 2010-09-13 15:48:26
Gail always says the best shit.  Anyone else remember when she shouted "Super mega-delicious!!" during one judges' table?
Posted by Drew Lazor @ 5:11 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Tuesday, September 7, 2010, 4:11 PM
Get the flash player here: http://www.adobe.com/flashplayer
If you’re a food nerd like me, you can’t watch Top Chef without screaming obscenities at the contestants while peacefully pondering what you’d whip up for Transcendently Beautiful Padma each Quickfire. If a case of backseat cooking is what ails ya, dig this fresh weekly column featuring recipes based on each TCQF. This latest ep of Top Chef (recap plug, what up) had the Five Alive work a wine pairing into their Quickfire dish. Far more interesting and applicable than cooking with idioms — and no gratuitous Terlato BJs! Way to go, producers! If you can drink wine, you can pair wine. And unlike Angelo while lacquering short ribs, it’s not hard. One no-fail combo is off-dry (grapespeak for slightly sweet) wines with spicy food. For this NSQF, I pulled a bottle of 2008 Willm Alsatian Gewurztraminer from the dusty nook between the pantry cabinet and the TV stand wine cellar. Gewurtz can range from bone-dry to diabolically dessert-like, though as a general metric the ones made in Alsace are not as sweet as their German counterparts. This leggy vintage contains just enough residual sugar to temper the heat of spicy tofu, as well as lingering spice notes (ginger, coriander, cinnamon candy) that can keep up with the recipe’s aggressive deployment of chipotle and cumin. As an added bonus, this Gewurz delivers a spice-extinguishing effervescence that foams over the tongue like Scrubbin’ Bubbles. Refreshing, yo.

Spicy Tofu

Lima-Coconut Puree and Macadamia Crunch

Go Get This: ... for the tofu 1/2 lb. block of firm tofu, pressed and drained 1/2 cup chipotles in adobo 1 tbsp. honey 1 tsp. cumin seed 2 tbsp. neutral oil, like peanut or canola Salt and pepper, to taste ... for the puree 1 cup lima beans, shelled 1 can coconut milk 1 tsp. cumin seed Juice of 1/2 a lime Few leaves fresh lemon verbena, chopped Salt and pepper, to taste ... for the crunch 1/2 cup macadamia nuts, toasted 1 tsp. cumin seed, toasted and ground Few leaves fresh lemon verbena, chopped Zest of 1/2 a lime Salt and pepper, to taste Now Do This: Start by making the marinade by pureeing chipotles, 1 tsp. cumin, honey and 1 tbsp. of oil. Cut the tofu into four half-inch slices, toss in marinade and refrigerate 30 minutes to an hour. While the tofu is marinating, combine half the can of coconut milk with a cup of water and 1 tsp. cumin in a sauce pot. Bring to a simmer, then add lima beans. Cook 10 minutes. Separate the beans and cumin from the coconut milk and water with a strainer. Discard the liquid and transfer the beans and cumin to a  blender. If you’re patient you should let them cool first. (I am not.) Get the blender going, add lime juice and stream in fresh coconut milk until the beans pull away from the sides of the pitcher and form a thick, smooth puree. Pass the puree through a strainer to make it extra-smooth, add chopped lemon verbena and season with salt and pepper. Reserve. Prepare to cook the tofu by heat a tsp. oil in a pan. Remove the tofu from the fridge and blot off extra marinade. Sear on one side until the marinade has caramelized, approximately 10 minutes. Flip and cook an additional 8 minutes. While the tofu is cooking, toast and chop the macadamia nuts for the crunch. Mix with toasted, ground cumin, chopped verbena, lime zest, salt and pepper. Plate: Spread the coconut-lima bean puree on a dish and arrange the squares of tofu on top. Sprinkle with macadamia crunch on top and pop that bottle of Gewurz like an Alpine gangsta.
bravoTV.com
Spinaderella cut it up one time.

Kelly
Posted 2010-09-07 12:22:28
I knew that was tofu when I saw the pic, but I told myself it could not be.

Then I read the recipe.

It was true. I will make this immediately.
Posted by Adam Erace @ 4:11 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Friday, September 3, 2010, 1:44 AM
Filed Under: Food TV | Top Chef
Quickfire: Dana Cowin of Food & Wine joins the transcendently beautiful Padma, who's dressed like the long-lost lesbian member of the Rat Pack, to challenge the five remaining chefs — Angelo, Kelly, Ed, Tiffany and our dude Jersey Kev — to come up with a dish well-paired to one of a handful of pornographically hawked wines. Kels utters the words "blue cheese emulsion" early on, which means she is gonna lose. Sure enough, she and Kev cook Cowin's least favorite dishes, but his shortcoming is due to a botched batch of braised pork belly swapped out for grilled quail that goes poorly with his selected vino. Angelo, who does some foie, wins the challenge plus a trip to London plus Cowin's steely Manhattanite approval.
During the pre-dinner screening of Oldboy
Elimination: In the last challenge before the super-exotic finale (more on that in a sec), the cheftestants ship off to NASA, but not before they perform a contractually obligated group fellatio session on a Toyota Avalon. (Anyone else feel that they're trying to cram in all the gross product placement in these final few episodes because somebody forgot to work shit into the previous 11?) At NASA, they're greeted by a very sincere adult braces-wearing scientist nerd lady who asks them to develop a dish that can be served to various other nerds in zero gravity. Guest judge this time? The one and only Anthony Bourdain, who rocks an ominous black suit/red tie look on his British hitman/Billie Joe Armstrong's dad/tour manager for The Hives grind.
Also, they're both banging flight attendants
Tony's got great rapport with fellow dapper-dressed chef guy Eric Ripert (he calls him "The Ripper!"), so much so that I believe they're working on an opposites-attract buddy comedy together. The pitch: Frank (Ripert) is a straitlaced, reserved investment banker who's got everything going for him — but ever since his parents, three siblings, wife and mistress died in a freak hovercraft accident, he's been nothing but lonely. Enter Ricky (Bourdain), a free-spirited graphic designer who looks at life upside down and inside out! Ricky answers Frank's ad for a loft space for rent, and what starts as a business relationship quickly turns into so much more for both men. Frank hates Ricky's sloppy unpredictability, but admires his joie de vivre. Ricky can't stand Frank's regimented lifestyle but envies his unrelenting sticktoitiveness. It's not long before they realize they can learn a lot from each other — that is, if they don't kill each other first!  They've got nothing in common — except each other. Life of the Party, this fall on NBC. Dammit, my fake show sounds so much better than Top Chef.
"This shit right here is the International Space Station hand signal for 'Don't nobody go in the intergalactic bathroom for about 35, 45 minutes.'"
The chefs prepare their dishes for Frank and Ricky Ripert and Bourdain, Padma, Tom C, some NASA folks and a couple astronauts, including Buzz "Jesus Christ, Somebody Make Sure This Poor S.O.B. Gets Home OK" Aldrin. All the chefs turn in good performances for the final challenge, so the judges are placed in the unenviable position of nit-picking their way toward a loser. Angelo, who discusses at length how he sexed his ginger-lacquered short ribs into submission, wins the first slot in the finale, plus the Toyota Avalon that he had familiar relations with earlier in the episode. Ripert finds Ed's Moroccan-inspired lamb plate to be too complicated, while Bourdain feels Jersey Kev played it too safe with his steak dish. Kelly makes halibut, and I totally forgot to mention earlier that Tom C. makes fun of her for going to space camp when she was a kid. Haha strong work Tom C. It's a real ball-buster of an elimination, one that ends with Tiffany (she'll likely win Fan Favorite, yes?) packing her knives and going, just one episode before the finalists ship off to Singapore. Yes, you read right — Top Chef is now America's Next Top Model! SMILE WITH YOUR EYES, ED!
I don't know if that's gonna cut it, dog ...

Justin Manne
Posted 2010-09-04 14:09:37
First of all... Drew your recaps are legend- keep up the good work... always a great read. Second, I love Bourdain's response to Angelo upoon his description of his dish- "I don;t know what the hell you are saying, but it was a good dish"- classic... And fiallly, does any one notice the way Angelo says "with you"? It drives me crazy!

Molly Eichel
Posted 2010-09-03 16:45:11
RIP Tiffany's time on Top Chef. I'll pour one out for you!

Drew Lazor
Posted 2010-09-03 14:27:46
They should go to Kenya and use their cooking powers to find Obama's birth certificate.

Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-03 02:31:05
Next week on to Top Chef: Upon arriving in Singapore, the chefs each commandeer a Toyota Venza equipped with navi equipment to guide them around the city on restaurant go-sees. Tardiness is very frowned upon in the restaurant industry, Padma will explain, which of course means at least two chefs will be late, one of which will cry. Ed will come down with food poisoning, but will work it when it comes time to cook Singaporean street food on top of an elephant. Meanwhile Angelo steals Kelly's granola bars, and drama in the house ensues.

poncho
Posted 2010-09-02 23:50:56
"long-lost lesbian member of the rat pack"
Love it!

Also, any recap that includes a picture reference to Perfect Strangers is number one in my book.  Awesome recap!

Top Chef Not So Quickfire: Grape Expectations :: Meal Ticket :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-09-07 11:11:47
[...] latest ep of Top Chef (recap plug, what up) had the Five Alive work a wine pairing into their Quickfire dish. Far more interesting and [...] 

Holly
Posted 2010-09-03 13:53:25
You're hilarious Drew!!!  Love your write-ups!! :)

G Nagle
Posted 2010-09-03 13:56:55
I thought this season focused on DC? "Hail to the Chef" ring a bell? Its not even like Singapore is a country we have really outstanding political/cultural ties to. England, Canada, Australia seem like more logical choices if they MUST go abroad; really it seems like they should have stayed in the US. I believe the producers were planning on incorporating Obama somehow, but they were turned down, so they said screw it, we're going to Singapore.

Phyllis Stein-Novack
Posted 2010-09-03 09:36:31
I'm still laughing. I predict Kevin is next to go. Angelo knowsd more about the complexities of Asian cuisines than any of the other chefs. I admire him because he is empathetic and wants quiet in the kitchen. So do I. I predict he will be Top Chef unless he makes a fatal error. I vote for Tiffany for fan favorite. What was with Ripert? Bourdain really slammed on him and rightly so. I met Ripert two years ago in the Reading Terminal Market. He was looking through the cook books at the cook book stall. You can't miss him. Silver hair and blue eyes go right at you. I welcomed him and we spoke in French. A delightful charming gentleman.

Top Chef D.C. Episode 13 (Finale Part 1): Holy Asian Extravaganza! :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-09-13 12:11:51
[...] Episode 12. Cooking for astronauts (and Bourdain). Tiffany goes home. [...] 

Ticket Stubs: Meal Ticket Weekly Recap, Aug. 30-Sept. 3 :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-09-07 08:31:57
[...] The early word on American Sardine Bar• Delicious or Suspicious: McDonald's McCafe Smoothie• Top Chef D.C. Episode 12: Boldly going nowhere• IN PRINT: City Paper Food and Restaurants, Sept. 2• Menu for SRO's Granite Hill at the [...] 
Posted by Drew Lazor @ 1:44 AM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Tuesday, August 31, 2010, 12:15 AM
And now that we have your attention ...
If you’re a food nerd like me, you can’t watch Top Chef without screaming obscenities at the contestants while peacefully pondering what you’d whip up for Transcendently Beautiful Padma each Quickfire. If a case of backseat cooking is what ails ya, dig this fresh weekly column featuring recipes based on each TCQF. You thought baby food was bad? This latest episode (read our recap) began with a masterfully corny Quickfire. Having exhausted all its presidential puns, Top Chef English Teacher had the crew cook dishes based on food idioms — "bring home the bacon," "the big cheese" and the like. Kelly blushed at the risque "hide the salami." Amanda wondered what an idiom was. Since I had a pasture-raised Cornish hen from Mountain View Poultry defrosting in my fridge — don’t we all? — I decided to put it to use in this NSQF. My food idiom? "Early bird special." The Cornish hen isn’t a different breed of bird, but a regular chicken, slaughtered at the ripe old age of four to six weeks. Early bird, get it? Check out the sweet, smoky Southern accent (peaches, bacon) I’ve given this Cornish bird, then tune in next week when the chefs will probably cook dishes based on gerunds.
Get the flash player here: http://www.adobe.com/flashplayer

Hazelnut-crusted Cornish Hen with blue corn grits, bacon-fried peaches and sherry syrup

Go Get This: ...for the hen 1 1-lb. Cornish game hen 1 cup raw hazelnuts 1 tbsp. smoked black peppercorns 1 tsp. kosher salt 1/2 cup sherry vinegar ...for the grits 1/2 cup blue corn grits 1 cup whole milk 1 cup water 1 pat butter 1 garlic clove, crushed 1/2 cup smoked cheddar cheese, grated 1/2 lb. slab bacon 1 peach, peeled and cut into eighths Salt and pepper, to taste Now Do This: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees, then get the hazelnut crumbs working by toasting the nuts and peppercorns in over medium heat in a dry skillet until fragrant, 5 minutes. Once toasted and slightly cooled, transfer the hazels to the dish towel, fold in half and rub gently, which helps remove most of the papery skins. Put the nuts in the food processor or spice mill with the peppercorns — regular’s OK, but smoked is worth seeking out for this recipe — and kosher salt and buzz into a fine powder. Sprinkle the hazelnut crumbs liberally over the hen and press in firmly to create a crust around the bird. Shake off excess and place hen on pan fitted with a roasting rack. (If you don’t have a roasting rack, put the hen directly in an ovenproof pan; just make sure you oil it first.) When the oven comes to temp, bake the hen. Mine weighed just over a pound, and 50 minutes cooked the bird through without drying it out. Were I making this for my living-in-fear-of-salmonella parents, I’d probably take it another 10 minutes, but it was perfect for me. Make sure you let it rest 10 minutes before eating. As the hen cooks, make sherry syrup by adding the sherry vinegar to a saucepan, reducing by half and whisking in a touch of butter off the heat. Reserve. Then cut the bacon into lardons and fry them up in a skillet. Remove the bacon but leave the fat in the pan, lower the heat and add the sliced, peeled peaches. Ideally, you want to use firm peaches, but mine were ripe and they turned out swell. They only need 5 minutes per side to caramelize. Remove them from the pan and use the mingled bacon fat and peach juices to baste the hen half an hour into cooking. Get the grits going by combining them with water, milk, butter and garlic in a pan. My fave grits come from Anson Mills in South Carolina, but white or yellow Quaker work just as well in a pinch, and you can use any combos or ratios of liquid to cook them in. (Chicken stock’s nice.) Bring the mix to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer, stirring every few minutes as the grits thicken. They’ll come together in 20, but give them another 20, adding liquid if you needed. After 40 minutes, fish out the garlic clove and stir in the cheese and lardons. To plate, lay down some grits and place the rested hen on top. Ring with the bacon-fried peaches and garnish with a drizzle with sherry syrup and crushed hazelnuts.
Posted by Adam Erace @ 12:15 AM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Monday, August 30, 2010, 11:32 PM
Filed Under: Food TV | Top Chef
"I'm sure you get this all the time, Chris, but the episode where Fred Savage was the sociopath serial rapist? TO DIE!"
I would like to apologize for the inexcusable lateness of this recap. As much as I would like to say that I was waiting till now to post because I wanted to see if Top Chef would win at last night's Emmy Awards (they did, and Padma looked transcendently soiree-appointed!), the truth of the matter is that I have a drinking problem and have been hitting the Bulleit supersupersuper hard since Thursday, leaving little time for cognitive thought. Which, of course is a great segue into our discussion of HOW AWESOME THIS PICTURE OF PADMA SHAKING HANDS WITH CHRIS MELONI IS. I love you and all, Mariska Hargitay, but if Law and Order SVU revamped and started featuring Padma using her palate to solve especially heinous sexually based offenses alongside Detective Elliott Stabler, all other TV would just have to pack up and quit because that shit would be the pinnacle. Consider it, NBC. We already know Padz's acting game is strong.
I also really love this photo of Padma and Gail adorably popping up out of the Emmy crowd on some Meerkat Manor shit.
Jason Merritt/Getty images | cbsnews.com
There's also this post-ceremony pic, where it appears that they gave Emmy statuettes to Padma and Tom C. but not Gail, forcing her to sheepishly grasp the bottom of Colicchio's to prove that she is involved with the show. The fuck, Emmys!? Give that lady a trophy! What do you make of this egregious mistreatment, Gail?
OH GREAT YOU CAUSED GROSSED-OUT GAIL FACE. I hope you're happy, Academy of Television Arts & Sciences. Dicks. Lame, I guess we have to talk about the stupid Top Chef episode now. Quickfire: Chef Rick Moonen shows up with Episode 11's QF challenge — cooking dishes based around well-heeled food idioms. Ed, for example, gets "hot potato" and does potato gnocchi; Jersey Kev pulls "bring home the bacon" and preps it three ways; Amanda gets "the big cheese" and does a mac and cheese with a side of pork chop (a SIDE of pork chop! that is a damn good idea). At the bottom: Kelly, whose chicken dish "didn't sing," according to Moonen (isn't it us uncreative food writers who are supposed to say shit like that, and not chefs?) and Amanda, whose dish he describes as "a sledgehammer to the gut" (whatever, I would've totally geeked out on your side of pork chop, girl!). At the top: the aforementioned Jersey Kev and Ed, both doing big things in the past few episodes. Though Moonen admits he wants to lick Jersey Kev's plate, he gives the W to Ed, who early in the episode is pictured wearing Tiffany's yellow Patty and Thelma dress. (Be thankful I don't have a screenshot of that shit handy.) Two other notes of interest: Angelo readily admits that as a child, he cut out pictures of four-star chefs and constructed a candlelit altar where he would pray to them (?!?!!!?!???!), and you should check back here shortly for Adam Erace's Top Chef Not So Quickfire challenge based around idioms.
"We're completely screwed now that Strasburg's out, so I say we just stay up here and eat fusion empanadas or whatever the fuck these are until the bottom of the seventh."
Elimination: The remaining cheftestants head to Nationals Park, where they must cook an appetizer tensile enough to replace the shot-to-shit ligament in rookie phenom Stephen Strasberg's pitching arm. Angelo prepares a hoisin-glazed spare rib that he characterizes are "sexy as all getout." Actually the challenge is cooking high-end concession stand food, but I think my made-up challenge is more topical. The six chefs are asked to work as a team, which leads to some friction between Angelo and Jersey Kev, who's a new dad. (Life Rule of Thumb: Any time you tell someone to "chill out," they will automatically do the opposite of chill out.) How uncomfortable does Eric Ripert look sitting in the stands? And how transcendently sporty does Padma look in a Nats jersey?
Some of the dishes sound pretty bangin' (particularly Angelo's pork/lobster roll and Tiffany's Italian meatball sub with fennel, basil pesto and fresh mozz), but in the end Quickfire champ Ed comes out on top once more for some well-received shrimp and corn risotto fritters (great idea for ballpark grub — finger food!). Jersey Kev's chicken skewer is criticized for being too long ("It was touching the bottom of my mouth," Tom C. complains OMGthatswhatshesaidtimes800million), but in the end, it's the long-suffering Amanda who's sent packing — she cuts the fish for her tuna tartar way too early, which creates an oxidized, gray-looking end result. You can't pull that ish with seafood guys like Moonen and Ripert on watch ("I am offended by the color of the product!" says Ripert), so it's her time to go. Happy trails, A. Before you leave I would like to share this unintentionally creepy criminal mastermind photo of you:

Drew Lazor
Posted 2010-08-31 10:48:03
Though I can't speak for Season 6 (trying to remember boobs...), Gail's knockers did have a HUGE role in Season 5.

I like Tiffany too but I think Angelo is going to take it all home.

Molly Eichel
Posted 2010-08-31 10:11:16
I disagree that Gail isn't the reason Top Chef won an Emmy. Didn't we all agree that last season, Gail's breasts were comparatively larger/shown more prominently than previous seasons? And isn't this the first year Top Chef has broken The Amazing Race's seven-time, Best Reality show winning streak? Ergo: The Emmy should have gone to Gail's knockers.

Also, Tiffany is going to win this thing. Word.

boom boom
Posted 2010-08-31 14:29:22
don't count kevin out yet. true, he's made a few mistakes but the man's got talent!

j leo
Posted 2010-08-31 03:10:50
I don't think I've ever been relieved to see someone go home. I think this top 5 is ok, and although I hate to say it, local Kev has to be the weakest link left, yeah? It would be an upset if he makes the final.

I was hoping you were watching the Emmys when they won. I liked Gail freaking out on stage as the producers were talking. As my wife cracked, "settle down, Gail, they're not giving this because of you." I think this is the first time since they started handing out Emmys for reality shows that a Jerry Bruckheimer-produced show has NOT won, so thank god!

Also, Chris Meloni owns. He does a funny DeNiro/TaxiDriver-esque type character in Wet Hot American Summer.

Jillian
Posted 2010-08-30 22:28:53
Oh my god. If SVU and Top Chef joined forces, I would quit my job and never leave my couch again. Best picture ever.

Rachel Burgos
Posted 2010-08-30 21:00:07
That top picture rules! when guitar hero & rock band came out, my band was always called "stablers rage" in honor of a one-time weekend marathon on USA titled that, featuring episodes of SVU with well, stabler being angry.

poncho
Posted 2010-09-01 12:50:28
I'm glad Amanda went home, she was totally the bratty little sister type but who looked liked a loon as she ran around the kitchen.

I hate saying it but I have a bad feeling about tonight and I think either Kevin or Kelly will be sent home.
Posted by Drew Lazor @ 11:32 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Monday, August 23, 2010, 3:15 PM
If youÂ’re a food nerd like me, you canÂ’t watch Top Chef without screaming obscenities at the contestants while peacefully pondering what youÂ’d whip up for Transcendently Beautiful Padma each Quickfire. If a case of backseat cooking is what ails ya, dig this fresh weekly column featuring recipes based on each TCQF. This weekÂ’s Top Chef episode (read our recap) had remaining chefs Tiffany, Ed, Angelo, Jersey Kev, Amanda Isabella Soprano and Alex Skeletor cooking a dish based on a succession of mystery ingredients concealed in mystery boxes. Which, naturally, brings to mind ...
It also made me think of The Riddler, but Drew Lazor beat me to that reference. Riddle me this: How would the Quickfire Kid recreate this challenge at home? Lazor stepped up and went grocery shopping at Hung Vuong (Wing Phat Plaza, 1122 Washington Ave.), hiding his culinary curveballs in bags labeled 1 through 4. IÂ’d start with No. 1, and open each consecutive bag in 15-minute intervals. I was sure heÂ’d bought me a durian. I hit the time and opened bag #1 to find:
Culantro, a broad-leafed, saw-edged tropical herb that tastes and sounds (but doesnÂ’t look) like its cousin, cilantro, and head-on shrimp, which, as I made clear the other day, I really, really like. I washed the culantro and set it aside before turning my attention to the peeling and cleaning the beady-eyed shrimp. I yanked off the heads and using kitchen scissors, snipped through the shell from where the skull had been back to the tails. This makes it easy to remove the shell, as well as exposes the shrimpÂ’s digestive tract. I ran the peeled shrimp under cool water and set them aside:
Heads and shells went right into a sauce pot; they pack so much flavor in their entrails-splattered hollows that throwing them out would be a tragedy. I added bay leaf, black peppercorn, a halved corn on the cob and two cloves crushed garlic to the pot, filled it with water and set it on high heat. What IÂ’d eventually end up with was anyoneÂ’s guess, but I knew whatever it was would involve homemade shrimp stock:
Buzz! Bag No. 2:
A ripe mango, easy-peasy. And ... sardines canned in tomato sauce! Have I mentioned that I really, really, reaaaaally don’t like sardines? (Oh yes, I have.) I smelled sabotage. I opened the can of sardines, steeled myself and dipped a finger into the marinade. It wasn’t terrible — thin, vaguely tomatoey and not as fishy as you’d expect from a can that cost 49 cents. Using a mesh strainer, I separated the sardine fillets from the sauce and tossed them into the now-bubbling stockpot. How to proceed? The culantro and mango dictated a dish with a Latin-American or Southeast Asian profile, so I went the latter way, whisking the tomato sauce with circa-2006 tamarind concentrate and red curry paste, ground five spice, salt and pepper into a fly Far East marinade for the shrimp:
Buzz! Bag No. 3:
Pre-cooked Hong Kong noodles — a score that said soup I could base on the aromatic shrimp stock — and an imposing head of red cabbage, which threw a wrench into those plans just as fast as they coalesced. I could never braise the cabbage tender in time, so I halved the head and shaved it coleslaw-style. Possibly a garnish for the soup, something crunchy?
I remembered the corn—there was more in the fridge. I pulled out an ear, shaved off the kernels — do it in a bowl or on a towel so they don’t bounce everywhere — and added them to the cabbage with a fistful of chopped culantro. The dish was coming together, but I still had a mango to deal with. Not exactly the stuff soups are made of. Buzz! Bag No. 4:
Quail eggs, easy to work in as a thickener for the soup, and a jar of something brown and murky as swamp water. Pickled lettuce, according to the label. Pickled. Frigging. Lettuce. Confound you, Drew Lazor, you dastardly scoundrel!
I popped open the jar and stared at the bog inside. The lettuce looked like chopped celery; it was crisp, but didn’t taste like anything except the brine, though brine is probably the wrong word for this glossy, viscous liquid. It reminded me of an intensified soy sauce — thick, salty, sweet. Caramel! Reducing the brine into a syrup, maybe with — no yes, definitely with the mango would be a great way to incorporate both ingredients as a finisher for the soup.
I peeled and chopped the mango, ran it through my juicer, poured it into a saucepan with about half a cup of the lettuce brine and cranked the heat. Soon, it looked like this:
By now, the stock was ready. To remove the solids, I poured the contents of the pot through a mesh strainer into a bowl, but even this doesnÂ’t remove the smaller particles of gunk. Pro chefs would prob use a chinois, but I find a wet paper towel (or cheesecloth) and rubber band work just as well. Cover a bowl with the paper towel, draping it so thereÂ’s a crater in the middle, and fit the rubber band around the rim, which keeps the edges from falling in. Like this:
MacGyvered chinois! The liquid will trickle into the container below, while the solids stay in the paper towel well. Voila! Pure, clear stock:
Only a few more steps to finish the soup. I got a teaspoon of red curry paste toasting in pot, added the shimmering shrimp stock and a few dashes of soy sauce and brought the soon-to-be-soup to a high simmer. In a bowl, I whisked six quail eggs till smooth, tempered them this way and slowly added the huevos to the pot. I lowered the heat to a slow simmer and whisked until the broth turned frothy and pale gold. I cracked in some black pepper and tasted a spoonful. BanginÂ’.
I seared the marinated shrimp on both sides:
And meanwhile finished the corn-cabbage-culantro “relish” by adding a handful of chopped pickled lettuce to the mix and seasoning with salt, pepper, lime, sugar and fish sauce:
Two bowls came out of the cabinet. I filled them with soup noodles, nested a spoonful of relish in the middle and arranged the seared shrimp around the rim. I poured the broth right in the bowls, its heat relaxing the noodles, and garnished the soup with additional chopped culantro and a dab of mango caramel:
Not bad for cooking blind. Were I going to recreate this recipe, IÂ’d fortify the broth with ginger, kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass, but this was still pretty damn delicious. A head in Brad Pitt's box might have ruined his day, but the ones in mine made for some dynamite impromptu eats.

Fidel Gastro
Posted 2010-08-23 12:44:06
I second that. Looks bangin'

Ticket Stubs: Meal Ticket Weekly Recap, Aug. 23-27 :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-08-30 08:32:03
[...] We challenge critic Adam Erace with a bunch of weird ingredients (pickled lettuce?!) for his Top Che... [...] 

danya
Posted 2010-08-23 12:23:50
Extremely impressive.

rachelburgos
Posted 2010-08-24 13:16:48
This is so awesome, great job Adam! Love your "MacGyvered" chinois, too.

poncho
Posted 2010-08-24 12:24:28
Dude, I can't believe you made this! I'm pretty sure I would have started crying once I saw the pickled lettuce.  Oh wait, this never would happen to me because I don't cook.

Ben Kessler
Posted 2010-08-23 11:18:25
Mad skills.
Posted by Adam Erace @ 3:15 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Saturday, August 21, 2010, 12:35 AM
Filed Under: Food TV | Top Chef
"If you don't want to get cut, you'll hand over the xanthan gum, pendejo."
First off, let me apologize for the tardiness of this recap — I was attending a sneak peek of Robert Rodriguez's Machete, starring my dude Danny Trejo as a stoic blade-wielding ex-federale hero (and also LiLo as a sexy meth fiend in a nun's habit!), and I think that is as good a lame blogger excuse as any. The only problem is that the movie was so sickeningly badass that Machete has successfully infiltrated all my avenues of thought. Now do my bidding and STAB WILEY DUFRESNE RIGHT IN HIS TAPIOCA MALODEXTRIN-LOVING HEART, AND BRING THE TRANSCENDENTLY BEAUTIFUL INDIAN WOMAN TO ME! Quickfire: Yay, a despised bane of professional chefs worldwide and the reason Ted Allen still has steady TV work — we're talking mystery boxes, jerks! You know they're the genuine article, too, because they have giant question marks on the sides, clearly denoting mysteryyyyyyyy. The remaining cheftestants — just six left after this ep, meaning it can only get sillier/more entertaining from here — start out with a box containing rockfish, fava beans and canned hominy. After 10 cooking minutes and at the end of two more 10-minute intervals after that, janky Secret Service-dressed dudes looking like they were fresh-plucked from a community theater production of The Matrix stomp in and drop off additional boxes, which the chefs then have to work into their dishes. Squid and black garlic and ramps and passion fruit start flying, the chefs start perspiring like they're on a Shawshank chain gang, and Dufresne just looks around shiftily, hoping (just HOPING!) someone pulls out agar-agar so he can practice his Disapproving Top Chef Judge Look™.
"Wait, Kevin, you got a whole fish? I got The Riddler's porno stash."
Dufresne and Padma (hot third-grade-teacher-during-Halloween-season look, Padz!) stick my-man-is-still-here? Alex and the oily-fish-cooking Amanda at the bottom, and Tiffany and Jersey Kev at the top, but it's the so-hot-right-now Tiff's fish stew that wins her the QF and a $10,000 chunk of change. Kelly was about to complain that her Yucatan seafood stew should've placed, but then Machete looked at her like
So Kelly was like
That interaction didn't actually happen but it is awesome to think it did because it is far more interesting than the actual Quickfire. (If you don't know: Kelly's the one who just barely lost to our own Jose Garces on Iron Chef America a few months back.)
You know what they always say: the shittier/more hastily Photoshopped the laser eye death rays, the deadlier they are! Everyone I've ever met has said this
Elimination: The seven remaining chefs draw knives to get assigned various classic dishes (Jersey Kev yanks cobb salad, which apparently made Alex mad enough to pull a  Cyclops) that they must "disguise" with technique well enough to fool the food-loving CIA, including strangely warm director Leon Panetta. Tiffany's excited, as she's a big La Femme Nikita fan!
Luc Besson would be so proud ...
Amanda, who lands French onion soup, expresses a desire to "seduce some secrets out of the KGB," which sounds like an awesome Lifetime movie that I would watch. Ed draws chicken cordon bleu and flips it/reverses it (chicken on the inside/ham on the outside); Tiff gets a gyro, which sounds really damn good right now; Angelo draws the food-for-reserved-English people Beef Wellington, and buys pre-made puff pastry (I tried to make that four years ago with very little success); Alex gets veal parm; and Kelly draws kung pao shrimp, which she's never made before. They present their dishes before Panetta and bunch of other spy types who probably have files stuffed with all our worst secrets on their BlackBerries, which gives them the right to be a little snooty, like Rubicon snooty. At the top — La Femme Nikita's Tiffany's gyro, which Eric Ripert says is the most elegant he's ever had (you ever notice how Ripert and Dufresne and other chefs always eat stuff off their knives on these shows? is that like a chef thing, or can we start doing that too and cutting ourselves in the mouth?); Kelly's improv kung pao shrimp; and my-man-pots-and-pans Ed's cordon bleu (I think Ed has a real solid chance of taking the show, don't you?). Tiff, continuing her ridiculous hot streak, ends up with the win and a trip to Paris, where she will be required to drop a duffel bag containing a sniper rifle and a list of cryptic GPS coordinates in a storm drain beneath a snow-covered footbridge in the fifth arrondissement. At the bottom — Alex, whose veal Tom C. said was "as tough as pulling a post in Yemen" (a lil' spy humor, nice! wait, why does Tom C. get to pull out spy humor?!); Amanda, with her too-sweet French onion; and Angelo, who clearly does a better job than me of making Beef Wellington but doesn't keep it tight enough to impress the judges. As we all suspected, this is Alex's week to go home. He packs his knives, taking the truth behind the Great Pea Puree Scandal of 2010 — a national security issue if I've ever seen one — with him.

Ticket Stubs: Meal Ticket Weekly Recap, August 16-20 :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-08-23 09:03:01
[...] and Bad Poetry Slam tonight!• NOW SEE THIS: Rachel Bloom, "Fuck Me, Ray Bradbury" Meal Ticket• Top Chef D.C. Episode 10: The hour-long kiss goodnight• Eating "From Beef Head Meat" at Los Taquitos de Puebla• Sept. 1: Burgundy dinner at [...] 

Top Chef Not So Quickfire: WHAT’S IN THE BOX?! :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-08-23 10:17:44
[...] "Fuck Me, Ray Bradbury" Meal Ticket• Ticket Stubs: Meal Ticket Weekly Recap, August 16-20• Top Chef D.C. Episode 10: The hour-long kiss goodnight• Eating "From Beef Head Meat" at Los Taquitos de Puebla• Sept. 1: Burgundy dinner at [...] 

Rock Colors
Posted 2010-08-21 00:18:10
Didn't see TC, but Machete stars LOTS of people and is the best movie I've seen in a long time. Seriously. It's not for everybody, but its brutal characterizations, political honesty and graphic horror (not to mention pseudo soft porn) come off as hysterical. 

GTG the image of Trejo is starting to scare me.

j leo
Posted 2010-08-21 13:54:37
I didn't think they could dump Kenny and then Angelo in consecutive weeks. Just not going to happen. Chaos averted, although Amanda is still there.

(Last year, there was a Facebook group for Kevin's beard. This year, my wife wants to start a group to kick Amanda out before the finale... or else. Cold blooded!)

Tiffany went from a personal favorite to spice it up to THE favorite, I believe.

What was up with Ripert and some others eating directly off their knives? Is that some cool chef thing we don't know about?

poncho
Posted 2010-08-22 00:00:46
I loved reading this recap but it made me jealous that I haven't seen Machete yet.

I also love that Tiff is doing well but at the same time it makes me uneasy.  I feel like she is primed to pull a Daniel Vosovic.

Morty
Posted 2010-08-22 00:05:30
You're an idiot, no person would eat food off a knife

G Nagle
Posted 2010-08-23 14:55:18
Shawshank = Andy Dufresne not Wiley Dufresne
Posted by Drew Lazor @ 12:35 AM  Permalink | Post a comment
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Founded in October 2008, Meal Ticket is a City Paper blog about food, drink and assorted other things that make you go mmm. We do recipes, interviews, restaurant news, commentary and much more. We don't do restaurant reviews herethose are handled in print, mostly by our critic (and Meal Ticket contributor) Adam Erace. Got a tip, question, thought or concern? Just want to say hello? Please shoot a note to caroline@citypaper.net.

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