Archive: January, 2010
The New York Times reports that a study of 6,000 Australian women has found that even childless women who live with a mate gain significantly more weight over 10 years than their single sisters.
After adjusting for other variables, the 10-year weight gain for an average 140-pound woman was 20 pounds if she had a baby and a partner, 15 if she had a partner but no baby, and only 11 pounds if she was childless with no partner....
There is no reason to believe that having a partner causes metabolic changes, so the weight gain among childless women with partners was almost surely caused by altered behavior. Moreover, there was a steady weight gain among all women over the 10 years of the study.
Quit your cackling, husbands.ï¿½ The other shoe is about to drop on your pudgy butts, too:
The study included only women, but the researchers cited one earlier study that showed an increase in obesity among men who had children, adding further evidence that social and behavioral factors are part of the explanation.
|Courtesy of Marigold Kitchen|
|Belgian waffle w/ shaved chocolate, blood orange, pine nut foam & powdered sugar|
A press release from Marigold Kitchen (501 S. 45th St.) advises diners to "ease into the avant-garde" with the new Sunday brunch at chef/owner Robert Halpern's modern Cedar Park restaurant. The BYO policy means you can haul your own sparkling wine to mix with GUS Grown-Up Sodas in Star Ruby Grapefruit or Valencia Orange, while trying Halpern's "creative takes" on weekend standards. Brunch runs every Sunday from 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
A sampling of menu items, which will change monthly with the seasonal dinner menu: Belgian waffle with shaved chocolate, blood orange, pine nut foam and powdered sugar (pictured); short rib grilled cheese with Grafton cheddar, sourdough bread and pickled red onions; and pain perdu with apple compote, smoked bacon, maple butter and cinnamon bubbles.UPDATE: Full menu after the jump.
|Click to enlarge|
|Calcium crystals for crunch|
Glamorous things to ingest that were made in 1998: single-malt Scotch, right bank Bordeaux, Champagne and now, Hook's 12-year cheddar.ï¿½ DiBruno Bros. (930 South 9th St.) stocked a 40-lb. wheel ofï¿½ the super-aged fromage just before the holidays; even with aï¿½ retail price of $49.99/lb, only about eight pounds remain.
Hook's Cheese Company is a family-owned business in Mineral Point, Wisconsin that produces over 35 cheeses, including America's oldest commercially-available cheddar, their rare 15-year. Though the 15-year has not yet made it into Philadelphia (the next batch is due to be released in March), I got a bite of the 12-year while braving the DiBruno Bros. Dec. 23 line.
An abundance of calcium lactate crystals pervade this cheese, adding a crunch and pleasant textural change from the smooth, rich paste.ï¿½ The distinct sharp flavor of cheddar is magnified here by an earthy, almost dirty undertone that screams long-aging; it's definitely a cheese-head choice. Like Hook's other offerings, the 12-year cheddar is madeï¿½ from the pasteurized milk of Wisconsin cows and curdled with a vegetarian "rennet".
A quarter-pound, enough to satisfy two cheese dorks when paired with some crusty bread, an Asian pear and a New Holland Dragon's Milk stout (or even a Victenaar, for the adventurous), is $12.50. Think of it as supporting the arts.
|Have two of these and try to say Brasserie Ellezelloise.|
Creamy, roasty and blacker than a moonless night in the mountains, stouts are essential winter beers. Nowadays the low-calorie, smooth and dry Guinness of our youth has been vamped up by craft brewers with additions of lactose and oatmeal, infused with coffee or oysters and increasingly, aged in an oak whiskey barrel. Wit these myriad flavors come higher ABVs for a higher-octane experience.
Test your tongue on the 18 stouts on draft right now at Monk's Cafï¿½ (264 S. 16th St.). Every New Year's Day, Monk's owners and my employers, Tom Peters and Fergie Carey, stack the tapsï¿½ with 19 stouts and 1 lambic. This thrills half the guests and none of the bartenders, who scurry back and forth from front to back bar fetching the only non-stout brews on draft as the stout kegs kick, one by one.ï¿½ It's good fun and an absolute bonanza for dark-beer aficionados.
On draft right now:
- Flying Fish Exit 1 Oyster Stout (NJ)
- Brasserie Ellezelloise Hercule Stout (BEL)
- Hitachino Nest Espresso Stout (JAP)
- Lagunitas Cappuccino Stout (CA)
- Left Hand Fade to Black (CO)
Click the jump for the full, original list, with Tom's descriptions.
ï¿½ At The Front Bar ï¿½
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout (New York) ï¿½ 10.5%abv.ï¿½ An excellent Imperial Stout.ï¿½ ï¿½ It just tastes that way.ï¿½ Great chance to see how ageï¿½ alters the taste of this stout. $3.50 / $5.50 REPLACED WITH DARK HORSE TOO CREAM STOUT
Flying Fish Exit 1 Oyster Stout (New Jersey)
Casey Hughes is at it again.ï¿½ This is perhaps the best oyster stout Iï¿½ve ever tasted.ï¿½ He put a lot of whole oysters (shells, too) into the boil so you really get some of that briney quality.ï¿½ 7%abv ï¿½ $3.50/$5.50
Founders Breakfast Stout (Michigan) 8.3%abv.
Made with flaked oats, bitter & sweet chocolate, with Sumatra and Kona coffee.ï¿½ Lots of coffee in the nose and finish.ï¿½ Full body.ï¿½ If this beer doesnï¿½t wake you up, it will put you to sleep.ï¿½ ï¿½ $3.50 / $5.50
Furthermore Smoked Irish Dry Stout (Wisconsin)
Medium body.ï¿½ Lots of roasty flavors & aromas.ï¿½ Brewed withï¿½ peat smoked malt.ï¿½ Not too smokey. 5.5%abvï¿½ $3.50 / $5.50
New Holland Dragonï¿½s Milk Stout Oak Aged (Michigan)ï¿½ 9%abv. picks up vanilla notes from the oak barrel aging.ï¿½ A rare keg in these here parts. ï¿½ $3.50 / $5.50
REPLACED WITH STEAMWORKS BACKSIDE STOUT
Voodoo Cow Bell Imperial Oatmeal Milk Stout (PA)
Full body with hints of bittersweet chocolate & roasted notes from the barley. Very drinkable.ï¿½ 9%abv ï¿½ $3.50 / $5.50 R EPLACED WITH D'ACHOUFFE HOUBLON
ï¿½ At The Back Bar ï¿½
Bellï¿½s Expedition Stout (Michigan)ï¿½ 10.5% abv.ï¿½ Russian Imperial Stout.ï¿½ Big, malty body & a warming glow from the high alcohol.ï¿½ $3.50 / $5.50
Bellï¿½s Rye Stout (Michigan)ï¿½ 6.7% abv. Aroma of bread.ï¿½ You can really taste the rye in this.ï¿½ Rich, yet refreshing.ï¿½ $3.50 / $5.50
Boulder Beer Obovoid Empirical Stout (CO) This beauty was aged in oak casks.ï¿½ Medium body.ï¿½ Picks up just a hint of vanilla from the oak barrels.ï¿½ A tad of bitterness in the finish (not sure if itï¿½s from hops or the dark roasted malt).ï¿½ 7.5%abvï¿½ $3.50 /ï¿½ $5.50
Duck Rabbit Milk Stout (NC) the best milk stout I ever tasted.ï¿½ Rich, creamy, malty & a hint of lactic acid.ï¿½ Really good s tuff.ï¿½ 5.7%abv ï¿½ $3.50 /ï¿½ $5.50
Hercule Stout (Belgium)ï¿½ 9%abv. ï¿½ Named for Agatha Christieï¿½s Hecule Poirot.ï¿½ This dry stout has that unique Belgian influence that comes from the yeast. Yummy!ï¿½ $8.50
Hitachino Nest Espresso Stout (Japan)ï¿½ 7.5%abv. espresso beans were added during the boil of this Imperial Stout.ï¿½ Chocolate notes along with the coffee.ï¿½ $8.50
Lagunitus Cappuccino Stout (California)ï¿½ 8%abv
aroma is coffee & cocoa.ï¿½ Really delicious strong stout.
Be careful, because this can sneak up on you.ï¿½ $3.50 / $5.50
Left Hand Fade to Black (CO)ï¿½ 8.5% abv.Export style stout.ï¿½ Medium body.ï¿½ Licorise & coffee notes.ï¿½ This is a very rare keg of this one time brew.ï¿½ $3.50 / $5.50
Pater Lieven Buffalo Stout (Belgium)ï¿½ 9%abv. In 1907 "Buffalo Bill's" Circus from the US played on the town square of Sint-Lievens-Esse. This is to commemorate100th Anniversary of that event.ï¿½ Lots of dark roast notes. ï¿½ $8.00
Port Brewing Santaï¿½s Little Helper (California)ï¿½ 9.5%abv.ï¿½ Russian Imperial Stout. ï¿½ Lots of chocolate and coffee flavors.ï¿½ This is way yummy.Be careful, because this can sneak up on you.ï¿½ $3.50 / $5.50
Stoudtï¿½s Fat Dog Imperial Oatmeal Stout (PA)ï¿½ 9%abv. ï¿½ rich & creamy with a fair amount of hops.ï¿½ This is one of my favorites of todayï¿½s lineup.ï¿½ $3.50 / $5.50
REPLACED WITH WOLAVER'S ALTA (COFFEE PORTER)
Terrapin The Dark Side (GA)ï¿½ 8.5% abv.ï¿½ an imperial stout brewed with Belgian yeast.ï¿½ The requisite coffee/chocolate notes with a hint of fruit from the yeast.ï¿½ $3.50 / $5.50
Wolaverï¿½s Organic Oatmeal Stout (VT)ï¿½ 5.9% abv.ï¿½ 100% organic ingredients. ï¿½ Creamy mouthfeel & medium body.ï¿½ Healty beer...love the concept.ï¿½ $3.50 / $5.50
ï¿½ The Lambicï¿½
Lindemans Framboise (Belgium) A lambic beer infused with raspberry for one of the best dessert beers.ï¿½ You can smell the raspberry from across the room.ï¿½ $8.50
After the jump, check out the working menu for Marc Vetri's Amï¿½s, which will open Thursday, Jan. 14 on the corner of 13th and Waverly. They're starting out dinner-only, with plans to introduce daily lunch service beginning March 1. Vetri also says he's planning a special industry night for local FOH/BOH types within the first few weeks ï¿½ he and chef Brad Spence will be cooking gratis grub for in-the-biz workers on the late-night tip, date forthcoming. Pay as you go for booze (clearly the guy knows how y'all tend to drink).bruschetta (toast)
mortadella mousse 6
fresh tuna and white beans 6
eggplant caponata 6
ricotta and black pepper 8
snails alla romana 10
salumi and formaggi (all salumi is housemade)
fennel salami with marmalade 8
coppa with hazlenut honey 8
pork liver terrine and mostarda 8
scamorza with pickled veg. 8
trio of pecorino 12
marinated olives $4
antipasti di pesce
stuffed clams $7
marinated sardines $10
octopus with potato and olive 10
marinated sepia with fennel and grapefruit 6
fritto misto with anchovies and zuchini waffle chips and lemon 10
antipasti di carne
arancini di riso with meat ragu 6
carpaccio of beef filet with gorgonzola sauce 12
polpettine with tomato potato 8
crispy sweetbreads with fennel marmalade 10
fried lambs tongue with salsa rossa 7
polenta with brown butter 5
potato frittata 6
artichokes alla giudaia 10
egg "tripe" in tomato sauce 6
farro salad with root veg.7
escarole salad with apples and radishes 6
endive and celery with anchovy dressing 8
pasta (all pastas are housemade)
tonnarelli "cacio e pepe" with pecorino and black pepper 14
bucatiniï¿½ alla ï¿½griciaï¿½ with pork belly, chili flake and pecorino 14
gnocchi alla romana with oxtail ragu 14
rigatoni with swordfish and eggplant fries 14
strozzaptrete with clam cockles and muscles 14
veal cannelloni with porcini bï¿½chamel 14
pork and fennel pollen sausage with peperonata 16
guinea hen leg saltimbocca with prosciutto and sage 18
abbacchio con patate (roasted lamb with potatoes) 18
turkey cutlet alla milanese 16
tagliata di manzo (grilled ribeye)over arugula salad 26
halibut with tomatoes, raisins and pinenuts 16
mixed seafood grill 22
tagliata di tonno (grilled tuna steak) with celery root salad 18
baccala in casserole 16
Coppo of mixed Semifreddo e granite 8
ricotta and espresso budino 6
pear and polenta bread 6
olive oil torta with whipped cream and marmelatta 8
waffles amis: warm belgian style waffles with nutella and semifreddo 10
fresh champagne mango crisp 8
Last week, we told you all about the Vaudevillains Mummers brigade's "Philly Phood Phantasia" New Year's Day performance. Here's a clip of the troupe in action on Broad Street Jan. 1.
Apparently, one of the pizza slices in the clip is none other than Daily News gossip columnist Dan Gross. "Iï¿½ve known [co-captain] Hillary [Rea] and a few of the other Vaudevillains for a long time and loved their performances the last two years," Gross tells Meal Ticket. When Rea sent out a note welcoming new members to the troupe, Gross and his wife Holly ï¿½ she was also a slice ï¿½ jumped at the chance. "It was awesome," Gross adds. "Can't wait for next year."
|Photos | Drew Lazor|
|PhilaFoodie on Flickr|
Back in April '09, Felicia D wrote about the tentative expansion plans of Aimee Olexy and Bryan Sikora of Kennett Square's lauded Talula's Table. (Here's David Snyder's 2008 review of their farm table dinner.) Back then, they'd signed a temporary lease to open a 40-to-50-seat full-service bistro across the street from Talula's, revisiting their restaurant roots (the couple ran the hit BYO Django in Philly pre-Talula's). By August, however, the project was put on hold due to funding troubles.
Now, Olexy tells Meal Ticket that she and her husband's plans to open up a new location in the quaint Chester County hamlet are officially defunct ï¿½ but they've got something else in the works. "I'm over the idea of opening a restaurant in Kennett Square," says Olexy. "When people here ask [about the plan], I tell them, 'Well, it's kind of dropped off, but I've started to broaden my scope ï¿½ specifically to the city.'"
While there is "nothing credible" to report at this point, Olexy says she and Sikora are most definitely exploring the prospect of returning to Philadelphia to open a restaurant. "I feel very entrenched here ï¿½ we'll be [in Kennett Square] for a long time," says Olexy, all the while indicating that her heart will always have a place in the big city. "But I can see doing both [Kennett Square and Philly] as a doable option now. I couldn't wrap my head around it then, but now I can."
Olexy confirms that she and her husband have met with Stephen Starr to discuss a potential restaurant project in Philly. Could the couple be involved with the pending resurrection of Starr's Blue Angel (706 Chestnut St.) ï¿½ where Sikora worked ï¿½ as one reliable source tells us? Olexy won't specify at this time. "I'm friends with Stephen, so we talk to him about all kinds of stuff all the time," she says.
He's not just a "hellbeast bent on destruction" ï¿½ he's your civilized Brit neighbor. You know, Raisin Bran Crunch can keep you from packing on the pounds from all that cerebral fluid and red meat. Meet Miles Melman!
|Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio|
|Cheap & easy protein|
Many home cooks (including myself) who aren't afraid of breaking down a leg of lamb or spending two hours blanching and peeling minute pearl onions for an edible project still flinch away from cooking fish.ï¿½ The invisible bones, the lingering smell and the inevitable sticking and trashing of the expensive fillets are kind of a scary prospect.
My dear friend Nicole Pogas (who has cooked at Pif and Vetri, and taught me how to perfectly poach an egg) and I cooked a fast dinner the other night that employed her oven-roasting method for skinless, boneless fillets of tilapia. Her method removes the fear from cooking fish because you pre-heat a sheet tray in the oven and then add the fillets to it, which keeps the flesh from sticking and the lingering fishy smells under control.ï¿½ All tilapia, a hardy, freshwater white-fleshed fish native to North Africa, are farm-raised, mostly in the U.S., Central America and Asia.ï¿½ The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch lists U.S.-raised fresh tilapia as the Best Choice for sustainability; with Central American specimens as a Good Alternative.ï¿½ They recommend avoiding frozen tilapia from Asia because of pollution and farming practices.
Other thin, boneless-skinless fillets of fish can also be cooked using this method.ï¿½ After the jump, Nicole Pogas' super-fast Oven-Roasted Tilapia with Cucumber Salad.
|Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio|
|Placing the fish fillets on a preheated sheet tray keeps them from sticking|
Oven-Roasted Tilapia with Cucumber Salad
By Nicole Pogas
Go Get This:
3 boneless, skinless fresh tilapia fillets
2 English cucumbers (you can use ordinary cucumbers, too, but English cukes have way fewer seeds)
3 thin green onions (scallions)
A few sprigs dill
A few sprigs Italian flat-leaf parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
A few small glugs extra-virgin olive oil
Two small pats butter
Your choice of starch or sauteed greens
Now Do This:
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit for at least fifteen minutes.ï¿½ When oven reaches temp, place a rimmed baking sheet in the oven to heat, at least 15 minutes.
While the oven is preheating, completely peel both cucumbers.ï¿½ Cut 1/4 inch off ends and discard.ï¿½ Slice trimmed cuke in half lengthwise and place flat side down on cutting board. Thinly slice cucumbers and place in large mixing bowl.
Cut root ends and tough green parts off green onions and discard, keeping the white and light green parts.ï¿½ Slice the green onions as thinly as you can and add to mixing bowl.
Take one lemon and zest it all over with a peeler or Microplane.ï¿½ Add all lemon zest to cucumber/green onion bowl.ï¿½ Cut zested lemon in half and juice both halves thoroughly; add juice to mixing bowl.ï¿½ Take second lemon and cut in half; juice one half into bowl and reserve other half to be cut into wedges for garnishing finished plate.
Wash and finely chop dill and parsley; add to mixing bowl.
Season cucumber salad with salt and pepper to taste; cover with plastic wrap and allow to rest in refrigerator while you cook the fish.
Remove tilapia fillets from packaging and season all over with salt and pepper.
Once the sheet pan has heated in the hot oven for at least 15 minutes, remove it from oven with oven mitts or tongs and place on heatproof surface (the range top is ideal, or use a few hot pads or a trivet).
Pour a hearty glug of olive oil onto hot sheet pan, then add a pat or two of butter.ï¿½ Arrange tilapia fillets on oil and butter and return to oven.ï¿½ Roast for about seven minutes; then remove sheet from oven and flip fish with large spatula.ï¿½ Return to oven and cook about five more minutes, until flesh is opaque white and firm to the touch.
Serve hot fish over your choice of starch or sauteed greens; top with cold cucumber salad.ï¿½ Cut wedges from reserved lemon half and serve on plate for squeezing over.
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