Archive: October, 2009
David Gilberg and Carla Goncalves' Koo Zee Doo (615 N. Second St.), which we first noted in late August, is hoping to be ready for a Thursday, Oct. 8 opening, Goncalves tells Meal Ticket. That's not set in stone just yet, as they're waiting on some inspection-y stuff, but that's the current plan. More on the spot soon; for now, hit up their Web site or check after the jump to for the Portuguese-inspired menu.
Fresh goatï¿½s milk cheese
Fried horse mackerel
Braised chicken gizzards
Pastï¿½is de bacalhau
Salt cod croquettes
Rissï¿½is de Camarï¿½o
Creamy shrimp turnovers
Bolinhos de Couve e Pimentos
Collard greens & red pepper croquettes
Pureed potato broth with collards and chouriï¿½o
Canja de Amï¿½ijoas
Clam and rice soup
Aï¿½orda de Beldroegas
Bread soup with purslane, mushrooms, cheese
and poached egg
Salada de Chocos com Feijï¿½o Frade
Cuttlefish and black-eyed pea salad
Salada de Bacalhau com Grï¿½o de Bico
Salt cod and chickpea salad with boiled egg
Salada de Tomate com Queijo Fresco
Tomato salad with fresh cheese
PEIXE E MARISCO
Sardinhas na Brasa
Grilled sardines with roasted pepper salad
Caldeirada de Marisco
Seafood and potato stew
Peixe Frito com Arroz de Tomate
Fried fish with tomato rice
Bacalhau ï¿½ Lagareiro
Grilled salt cod with punched potatoes
Arroz de Pato
Baked rice, chouriï¿½o, braised and pan-seared duck
Coelho ï¿½ Caï¿½ador
Stewed rabbit with potatoes
Carne de Porco ï¿½ Alentejana
Pork and clams with crisp potatoes
Bife ï¿½ Portuguesa
Flat iron steak with presunto, fried egg and fried potatoes sautï¿½ed broccoli rabe
Feijoada ï¿½ Transmontana
Pork and bean stew
Pastel de Nata
Custard baked in puff pastry cup
Bolo de Bolacha
Coffee soaked wafers with buttercream
Sandes de Salame de Chocolate
Chocolate salami and mousse sandwich
Tarte de Amï¿½ndoa
Caramelized almond tart
Aletria com chocolate
Noodle pudding dipped in chocolate
Today, your boy Tommy Up is giving away the latest rendition of his "Serious Grilled Cheese" at PYT in The Piazza ï¿½ it's bacon, tomato and your choice of cheese (cheddar's the standard) on a Martin's potato roll ï¿½ from 5 to 7 p.m. If you're on PYT's mailing list, print out the blast announcing the deal to get your sandwich (usually $8). Or show your server/bartender this tweet. Or hell, just flash this here blog post, Up adds, furthering the time-honored tradition of y'all getting gratis PYT eats as a result of something we said about the spot. So yeah, free grilled cheeses.
The Good Word is a weekly Meal Ticket feature where we ask Philadelphia food people questions. Weï¿½re going to start by highlighting the cityï¿½s many excellent food writers and bloggers, with eventual plans to extend beyond the scribeosphere. The questions will be different every week unless we come across a really sweet one we want to reuse. Want to nominate a future Good Word candidate (yes, you can nominate yourself), or submit ideas for questions? E-mail firstname.lastname@example.org.
In this installment of The Good Word, weï¿½re chatting with Collin Flatt, editor/contributor at Phoodie. In addition to instructing at the Wine School of Philadelphia, Collin consults on restaurant beer and wine lists and represents private clients in the wine auction market.
What are some of the most underrated restaurants in Philly right now?
I'm going with Rangoon as my underrated haunt. The only Burmese place in town, and it's been around quite a long time. They bring the heat and have really supple and textured plates no one else can match. And I'm not just saying that because it's the next entry in the Search For Umami. It's been a favorite of mine for years with some one-of-a-kind vittles.
Instead of another underrated restaurant, I'm gonna give you an underrated plate. The Royal Tavern is always pimped for its bad ass burger. But what you don't hear enough about is the chicken sandwich. Topped with prosciutto, pear, arugula, blue cheese and honey, it's a flavorful beast and beautifully layered, texture-wise. The snap of the pear against the blue cheese is really kind of precious. I'll order that before the burger any day of the week.
You're a fan of, let's say, "unconventional" eats ï¿½ organs, odd cuts, stuff like that. What do you think are some good "starter" dishes for the more meat-and-potatoes diners out there?
When taking someone's "offal virginity," try sweetbreads. I know it sounds like it should be further down the continuum of freaky foods, but when done right, they're special. And last year's menu at Cochon had sweetbreads that were basically General Tso's chicken livers. And I mean that as a compliment. They were tasty in a junk-food-accessible way. Anyone would've eaten those. Just don't tell them what it is.
There's at least one commercial winery in every state in America. As a wine guy, which states have produced some unexpectedly good stuff?
Long Island is often talked of locally as a nice wine trip, but the truth is they make some serious Cabernet Franc on the North Fork. It's the real deal, as is their Merlot. Specifically, I would hit up the Old Field Winery, where the unoaked Chard and their Blanc de Blanc sparkler is really something special.
Washington State makes amazing Cab Sauv and Merlot. Look for bottles under $10 from the Columbia Valley. It's gonna blow up in a few years, so buy it up now.
Gun to your head ï¿½ you HAVE to start working in a restaurant tomorrow, but you get to choose your position. What's your pick and why?
Bread guy. Zahav is my favorite restaurant and the bread makes it for me. Parc is overrated, but I'll go there every damn day for that country bread. It's the best baked anything in the city. Bread guy can't lose. No one's meal is ever ruined by the bread, but some people will leave a restaurant talking about the starchy sex that preempts every dinner.
Team Meal Ticket dropped by the Wachovia Center this past Wednesday to check out Appetite for Awareness: A Gluten-Free Cooking Spree. Organized by the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness (NFCA) and sponsored by Thomas Jefferson, the evening featured a slew of local chefs preparing dishes designed specifically for those with celiac disease ï¿½ one in 133 Americans cannot consume gluten, the protein inherent in wheat, barley and rye products. The purpose of the evening, aside from raising awareness about the disease, was to highlight the fact that local restaurants are ready, willing and able to accommodate celiac diners.
Above, check out our chats with Matthew Levin from Rubb, Marcie Turney from Bindi and Lolita, Eric Paraskevas from terra and Keith M. Taylor from Holy Smoke.
Huge thanks to our very own Neal Santos for the video.
Rittenhouse corner boite Snackbar (253 S. 20th St.) revamped their menu a few days ago to keep pace with the crisp weather and the tiny restaurant's freshly lit fireplace.ï¿½ While certain guest favorites like the breakfast burger with bacon and a fried egg and the classic roasted chicken remain, new items are making the scene, as well.ï¿½ Executive chef John "Chainsaw" Taus has added small plates like a buttery scallop crudo with pomegranate seeds, mint and champagne granita, and larger plates including ricotta tortellini with butternut squash, citrus and Marcona almonds. Also worth noting: Snackbar serves their entire menu until 1 a.m. nightly, as well as a 5-to-7 p.m. happy hour that halves the price of pierogies, flatbread and calamari, along with a red and a white wine by the glass.
Pictured above are the dishes listed below.ï¿½ See the complete menu after the jump, and definitely try the fried apple pie with golden raisin creme anglaise.ï¿½ It's just like Grandma never made.
- Beet salad (red beets, golden beets and candy stripe beets) with almond vinaigrette and honey-goat cheese
- White bean soup with duck confit and fried sage
- Mache salad with French breakfast radishes, prima donna cheese and black olive-walnut vinaigrette
- Steamed cockles with merguez sausage and spicy tomato sauce - and toasted baguette
- Potato pierogies with chive creme fraiche and caviar (from chef's grandmother's recipe)
- Seared salmon with celery root puree, chestnut fumet and green apple
- New York strip with roasted brussels sprouts and fingerling potatoes, cipollini onions and red wine sauce
- Peanut butter semifreddo on shortbread cookie with grape compote, topped with a sugar tuille
Photos courtesy of Snackbar sous chef David Goody.
Popcorn : Brown Butter ï¿½ Fleur De Sel
Mache Salad : radish, prima donna and black olive-walnut vinaigrette
Baby Beet Salad : honey goat cheese and almond viniagrette
White Bean Soup : duck confit and fried sage
House Cured Lomo
Scallop Crudo : pomegranite, mint and champagne granita
Steamed Cockles : merguez sausage and spicy tomato
Calamari : smoked sundried tomato and horseradish aioli
Potato Pierogies : chive crï¿½me fraï¿½che and caviar
Chicken Liver Pate : dijon mustard, cornichons and crostini
Fried Pig Trotters : chanterelle mushrooms and jalapeno cheese grits
Seared Foie Gras : poached pear and port gastrique
Braised Short Rib : barley, glazed carrots and red wine sauce
Ricotta Tortellini : butternut squash, citrus and marcona almonds
Red Snapper : rice, bok choy and miso beurre blanc
Seared Salmon : celery root puree, apples and chestnut fumet
Roasted Chicken Breast : spinach, potatoes and garlic jus
New York Strip : brussels sprouts, cipollini onions and fingerling potatoes
Breakfast Burger : sharp cheddar, bacon and a fried egg
Cheese Plate 3 or 5 cheeses with accompaniments
12.00 / 18.00
Triple Chocolate cake : chocolate mousse and white chocolate mousse
Peanut Butter Semifreddo : grape compote and shortbread
Pumpkin Cheesecake : bourbon caramel and whipped cream
Fried Apple Pie : honey-mascarpone creme anglaise and white plum sauce
Meal Ticket just heard that Daniel Stern's MidAtlantic, in the Science Center at 3711 Market, will open this coming Tuesday, Oct. 6. Below, take a peek at the menu and cocktail list.
Looks like the crab scrapple we spotted on Twitter awhile back will be served as part of a "Crab Louis," with lettuce, buckwheat and a Brandy Louis dressing. What else sounds good to us? Clam and oyster salsify stew, Welsh rarebit fondue with soft pretzels and the nightly specials section, which'll feature eats like meatloaf and gravy, chicken and dumplings and corned beef, colcannon and cabbage.
Check out our July 31 Q&A with Stern for a bit more on the concept, which boasts plenty of influences from this very region.
|Click to enlarge|
As we speak, the dames of Les Dames d'Escoffier International ï¿½ the "organization of women leaders in food" ï¿½ are packing in to the Sofitel for four days of eating and networking at their annual conference. The org features more than 1,400 members from 26 international chapters ï¿½ï¿½ culinary luminaries, food writers, educators, chefs, PR specialists, historians, scientists, authors, retail specialists, caterers, tour planners, nutritionists, manufacturers, stylists and more. But for all their renown, I felt like there was something missing from their legend ï¿½ a face, a voice. That was remedied quickly upon speaking with Suzanne J. Brown, a coffee and tea marketing specialist and president of LDEI.
Meal Ticket: When did you take the reins of the organization?
Suzanne J. Brown: A year ago. The term for the president is one year, so my term ends at the end of this conference.
MT: So then, youï¿½re gonna be throwing things around, getting drunk, and the whole event will turn into a bacchanal, right?
SB: Yeah, thatï¿½s the way weï¿½ll celebrate when I pass the gavel. But seriously, itï¿½s the presidentï¿½s responsibility to develop the conference and preside over it. She is the one responsible for it. And then the host, which is Philadelphia this year, has a local committee that will, along with our board of directors, actually execute and to find community speakers.
MT: Why was the organization formed in the first place?
SB: At the time we started in the '70s, there weren't very many women chefs. And it was really not a profession for women. So there were several women in New York ï¿½ including Karen Brock, our founder, who is still living and will be in Philadelphia ï¿½ who gathered women together because of her standing in restaurant critic circles. There was a small group of women that got together and thought, "You know what? We need to create a community for women that want to be chefs that want to go to culinary school. We need to raise the awareness that there are a lot of capable women who are already cheffing or that want to chef." So they did ï¿½ they formed this organization, and the purpose is to raise funds within our chapters for scholarships given to women who want to pursue careers in the culinary field.
MT: Do you feel as if your mission has been met? Are people catching the drift?
SB: I think itï¿½s equal opportunity now, and itï¿½s just continuing to grow and more professionals [are coming] into the field. We discover more culinary opportunities. ï¿½ One of the differences between Les Dames and other culinary organizations, other than being by invitation only ... [is] that [these] are women of accomplishment. Theyï¿½re not at the beginning of their careers. They have already sort of made their mark or are making their mark. We have a diverse membership in terms of profession that is different than other, similar kinds of organizations.
We are [also] international and trying to grow that facet of our organization. For instance, one of our goals this year was a new initiative called the Global Culinary Initiative, where we become more active in their communities to engage with the population. Philadelphia is an ideal example. Your international flavors tend to fit within Philadelphia and the surrounding communities. Itï¿½s an opportunity for the Dames to embrace that and bring the ethnic culinarians into the fold and share tradition, ways to cook, culture, into our food first, and then to share ours with them. In other words, bring them, letï¿½s embrace them, letï¿½s work with them, letï¿½s learn from them, make them members. Weï¿½re about women helping women.
MT: Why did you choose Philadelphia for this yearï¿½s event?
SB: Every year, we try to balance the location of our conference. For instance, one year, weï¿½ll have it on the East Coast, which is this year, and Philadelphia stepped up to the plate and offered to be the host city. Last year, we had it in Honolulu. So next year, weï¿½ll go back to the west, and Palm Springs, California has offered to be the host city. We have chapters all over North America, [so] we try to offer a city where at least some part of the population will be able to get there if they hadnï¿½t made the previous one.
This is the 21st conference, and weï¿½re glad to be there. I love Philadelphia ï¿½ I used to live in Bucks County. We try to develop a theme for the conference that is sort of indigenous with the host city, and this year, because of the wealth of history and the wealth of significant architecture and art and food, we felt that it was the year to really focus on education. Iï¿½m an Easterner, so I love the historical, the educational, and enrichment activities that take in those fine points of the Philadelphia area.
Featured speakers include Marion Nestle, Ph.D., Mr. Michael Whiteman, and Marcia Levin Pelchat, Ph.D.ï¿½ Nestle, the Paulette Goddard Professor of Nutrition, Food Studies and Public Health at New York University, will present the keynote address on Fri., Oct. 2 at 8:15 a.m. on "Today's Food Revolution: Changing the Way We Cook and Eat from Farm to Table." Afterwards, Whiteman, president of Joseph Baum & Michael Whiteman Company, will address "After the Downturn Turns Around: Preparing for Change." On Sat., Oct. 3, from 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m., Dr. Pelchat will discuss "Our Aging Senses and Cuisine." These presentations are open to food professionals for a fee. To purchase tickets visit ldei.org.
|Photo | Neal Santos
- An influx of new restaurants to South Street means the corridor is more relevant than ever as a diner's destination. A.D. Amorosi talks to Stephen Starr, the Percy Street Barbecue team (L-R: Michael Solomonov, Erin O'Shea, Steve Cook) and others to take the current temp of the street where the hippies meet.
- Pumpkin beer Valhalla at The Institute, Midtown Village Fall Festival, a First Friday talk from Tria's Michael McCaulley and more in this week's What's Cooking.
- Three openings of note in Feeding Frenzy ï¿½ Pizzeria Stella, Flying Monkey Deuce and D.P. Dough.
|Courtesy of Zinc|
Starting in mid-October, Olivier Desaintmartin's Zinc (246 S. 11th St.) will roll out this duck press. What's a duck press? It's a traditional, mostly archaic French tableside tool — and it is not for the squeamish.
Works like this — you order the duck press special, and your server shears the meat and limbs from the duck's carcass and sets it aside. He or she takes that carcass and inserts it into the cylinder of the press, above. Then, your server twists and twists and twists that wheel at the top, which forces a pulverizing disc down, crushing the carcass into submission. Every last ounce of the duck's blood, juice, marrow, etc. drips out of that little spout at the bottom ï¿½ and then all that goodness is worked into a red wine reduction, which serves as your sauce.
Zinc will soon begin offering a whole duck, along with a salad and potatoes Lyonnaise, for $70, which is pretty good deal for two Francophiles and/or adventurous eaters.
Want to see the duck press in action? Check out this vid from The Feedbag's Josh Ozersky:
Help! Suggestions for romantic Philly restaurant (a proposal is involved) for two vegetarians (not me!). Doesn't have to be all veg rest.
So how about it, y'all? Where are some good Philly spots that are both romantic AND vegetarian-friendly? Note that the proposal is not actually taking place at the restaurant ï¿½ this'll be a post-"YES!" meal for the happy veggie couple, but it still needs that ambience. A few places off the top ï¿½ Cochon is quite romantic (and, as we told you recently, can accommodate vegetarians). Mi Lah could be an option. And while this may be a slightly obvious pick, how could you possibly go wrong with Horizons?
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