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Archive: October, 2009
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| Photo | Drew Lazor |
Meal Ticket dropped by the kitchen at P.Y.T. yesterday for a peek at what Tommy Up last week dubbed his World Fucking Champion (WFC) Burger. Chef Kevin Maskol walked us through the construction of the $25 beast (named, of course, after Chutley's timeless parade-day quotable), which'll be available as a special starting today at 5 p.m. and ending whenever the Phillies get around to shaming the Yankees into perpetual submission.
The Piazza burger joint just started sourcing game from Texas' Broken Arrow Ranch � Maskol starts by forming an 8-ounce patty (P.Y.T.'s signature burger is 5 ounces) of the purveyor's free-range venison meat, which is blended with 20 percent beef fat to bump up juiciness. It's cooked medium-rare or medium (max), then topped with an ounce lobe of pan-seared foie gras, a shallot/cranberry relish and rutabaga straws. They melt a few generous slices of Memoire black truffle gouda on the top half of a brioche bun (not on the patty) before completing the plate with hand-cut spicy butternut squash chips. We got an opportunity to sample a couple bites of the burger, and it's balanced, if decadent � you can most definitely taste the foie in each bite, and that truffled cheese is an umami-tastic buddy for the venison, lean and subtle by its very nature.
Since this is a Tommy Up production, there's a sprinkle of extra flash involved, beyond the built-in notoriety of being the most expensive burger in Philly right now (it edges out Jose Garces' Whiskey King alphaburger by $1 in the price column). Every WFC will be finished off with a sparkler bearing a Phillies pendant (not pictured). "Yes, a little over the top," Up admits. "But we're the World Fucking Champions, and this is the burger to go with it."
PYT fucking blows.
[...] available again�tonight at 5PM and is made with Venison and Foie Gras. Check out story at Meal Ticket�/�For the Game: �Pickleback shots, one shot of whiskey & one shot of pickel juice for $3 [...]
this place is tragic- the hype machine will wear down soon- the only thing worse then the mediocre food is the waitstaff who is apparently too cool for school dealing with their art installations in fishtown to actually do their job.
$25? A venison burger with foie gras and black truffle gouda with hand-cut spicy squash chips!?!? That is a bargain, way to go PYT!!!!
[...] Champion Burger) debutes tonight at 5PM and is made with Venison and Foie Gras. Check out story at Meal Ticket�/�For the Game: �Pickleback shots, one shot of whiskey & one shot of pickel juice for $3 [...]
$25????? how much longer till this place closes?
How were the chips? Sound really good, but look a bit odd...
Danya: I didn't try the squash chips personally so I have no insight, but I can say that their sweet potato chips are very tasty.
Can't wait to try it.
THAT is a $25 burger? Do I get a happy ending to go with it?
Now that is a burger! Definitely making my way to PYT during the World Series to get one of those.
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| Twitpic | UWISHUNU |
Hell of a deal today (and every Tuesday) at Paul (1120 Pine St.) �it's "Neighborhood Appreciation Day," meaning you can get a three-course meal for just 20 bones. Effie Bouikidis-Schweich, who opened the Pine Street BYOB in July with sister Christina Jimenez, tells Meal Ticket that chef Adam Merlin will switch up the courses every week, but it's basically a soup/salad, entr�e and dessert breakdown. Wednesday to Sunday (Paul's closed Monday), they offer a $30 three-courser off the menu, too.
Thanks to Eric from UWISHUNU for the tip.
You're welcome Drew! :)
Thanks to the Meal Ticket tipster that put us on to this one: Shinju Sushi, the popular neighborhood BYO at 930 Locust, is in the process of moving a few blocks to the northeast to 719 Walnut, the former home of Aso Sushi, which closed in July. This new space is nearly three times the size of their current digs, and the move'll coincide with a name change � Shinju will soon be known as The Fat Salmon. This'll all go down seamlessly in the month of November, a staffer tells Meal Ticket; The Fat Salmon will also be BYOB, and they'll keep the same menu (with a few additions). Oh, and if you're fond of the sushi-themed movie posters that decorate Shinju, rest easy: They're working on an entirely new series for the move.
Oh man, Shinju is my absolute favorite sushi place in the city-- mainly because it is just so adorable. I'm excited to see the new place and the new sushi posters. The new name is cute too!
I am the Tipster Grifter!
What are they doing with the old posters? I would totally buy some!
[...] Ticket reader JC spotted this sign on the door at Shinju (930 Locust St.). It’s an update to the October news that the sushi spot would be moving over to Walnut and changing its name to Fat Salmon. [...]
Darin Picorella says he's thisclose to opening Grey Social (132 Chestnut St.)� � as of right now he's committing to "this weekend" for the debut. (This project's been in the works for awhile � we first had word of it back in May.)
The story on this address is that it operated as a teahouse before Prohibition, and then later as a speakeasy, so Picorella's nodding to both traditions with d�cor and bevs. A triple-tiered chandelier is the centerpiece of the ground floor (the second floor is about a month behind), hanging in a main room, past the bar area, that features low lounge tables, exposed brick walls with candle recesses and a classy leather wraparound banquette. Edison lightbulbs and aluminum caf� tables round out the speakeasy feel. Drink-wise, they'll be mixing classics � the French 75, the Clover Club � as well as a selection of tea-based tipples (spiced rum, black tea, cran, simple syrup, grenadine; ZEN Green Tea liqueur, dry sake; Beefeater, chilled Earl Grey, lemon, sugar, lime).
Picorella's been renting out Grey for a number of events over the past few weeks to warm up his staff � this Thursday, for example, he's hosting a $500-minimum fundraiser for State Senator Anthony H. Williams. Opening hours will be Mon., 4:30 p.m.-midnight; Tue.-Wed., 4:30 p.m.-2 a.m.; and Thu.-Sat., noon-2 a.m.
After the jump, take a look at Grey's opening menu, which is affordable and has a French bistro feel � tartares, raw bar, crepes, an en croute selection, etc.
TARTARE (CHOPPED)
Steak������� �
Chopped Filet, Quail Egg, Parmigiano, Dijon, Ice Cream 12
Yellow Fin Tuna and Scallop
Carpaccio of Watermellon, Mirin, Daikon Radish, Ginger and Wasabi Oil 10
Roasted Beet������ �
Chevre, Verjus and Petite Greens 7
Port Poached Pear������ �
Roquefort, Honey and Fig Jam 6�� �
FRUITS DE MER
Oysters du Jour������ �
1/2 dozen on the half shell 11
Littleneck Clams������ �
1/2 dozen on the Half shell, Spicy Tomato Salsa 9
Shrimp Cocktail "Grey Style"����� �
Jumbo Shrimp, Louis� XIII Sauce� 12
Petite Lobster Tails������ �
Saffron Remoulade 15�� �
SANDWICH BOARD
Served with: French Kettle Chips, Cornichons, Pommerey Mustard
Croque - Monsieur������ �
"Toasted Ham and Cheese" Jambon and Gruyere Cheese� 8
Mini Philly Cheese Steaks����� �
Shaved Certified Angus Tenderloin, Sauteed Onions, Banana Pepper, Raclette Cheese� 8
Furmaggi Aux Tomato "Panini Style"���� �
Toasted Tomato and Cheese�� 7
French Dip "Shabu Shabu"����� �
Horseradish Brandade, Sliced Baguette� 8
Crab Cake Sliders������ �
Mini-Crab Cake sandwiches served on French Boules, Chimay Creole Mustard Mayonnaise� 10
Pan Bagnat������ �
Split-Loaf Brushed with Olive Oil, Onion Slices, Green Pepper, White Anchovies, Tomato Slices, Champagne Vinaigrette 6�� �
BAGUETTES / BRUSCHETTA
Tomato and Basil������ �
Vine Ripened Tomato and Thai Basil� 6
Wild Mushroom & Boursin�� 7
Hummus "Roasted Garlic"�� 6
French Herbed Cream cheese with Crab� 10
Roasted Pear and Blue����� �
Toasted Walnut��� 8
Brandade������� �
Creamed Salt Cod, Chive and Fingerling Potato 8
Vegetarian Cellophane Rolls�� 5�� �
Tomato, Ginger, Jam
SALADS
Grey House Salad������ �
Organic Greens, Red Onions and Tomatoes� 5
Verte A La Nicoise������ �
Haricots Vertes with Red Onion, Tuna, Hard Cooked Egg, Fingerling Potato, Capers and French Herbs 8
Lyonnaise������ �
With toasted Gnocchi, Frisee, Bacon, Poached Egg and Sherry Vinaigrette 9
Agnolotti Pasta������ �
With Pesto, Artichoke, Red Pepper and Tomato Surbot 7
Shrimp and Avacado����� �
Lemon Tyme Vinaigrette 10
EN CROUTE
Coq Au Vin������ �
Natural Springer Mountain Chicken Breast, Pinot Noir-Infused, Mushroom Duxelle, Smoked Bacon 8
Chilean Sea Bass������ �
Marinated in Miso and Sake Glaze, Duxelle of Shitake Mushrooms, White Truffle Oil 10
Beef Wellington������ �
Beef Tenderloin, Blue Cheese and Bacon� 10
Salmon Oscar������ �
Fresh Atlantic Salmon, Bernaise Sauce, Young Spinach 7
Brie and Framboisse����� �
Pomegranate and Corbarnet Molasses, Marcona Almonds��� 5
Escargot������� �
Snails cooked in Burgundy Chervil, Garlic 10
Quiche Lorraine������ �
Egg, Cream Custard and Smoked Bacon in an Open Pie Crust 6
SOUP
Charred Tomato Soup����� �
Gruyere Cheese Straws 5
Roasted "Three Onion Gratinee"� 8
Cream of Asparagus������ �
Asparagus Tips and Bechamel 7
Pumpkin Vichyssoise"Chilled"
A Rich Creamy Puree of Pumpkin and Potato, Grated Nutmeg, Raisin Walnut, Toast Points 5
Vichy Carrot and Ginger����� �
Lilett Chastally, Toasted Brioche 6
LITTLE BITES
French Marinated Olives����� �
Tarragon Pernod Marinade 4
Stuffed Figs������ �
Chevre, Marcona Almonds, Burgundy Syrup� 4
Crispy Artichoke Petals����� �
Warm Parmigiano Crusted� 4
Smoked Salmon Canapes����� �
Caperberries, Parsley Oil, Cr�me Fraiche 5
Grilled Octopus ������
With Citrus Salad, Micro Mint 5
Smoked Trout������ �
Endive spears, Kumquat and Grapefruit Salad 5
Asian Dumplings������ �
Chicken and Cashew, African Peanut Sauce 4
DESSERT
Bento Box������ �
An Assortment of Traditional French Pastries� 7
French Waffle (Serves 2)����� �
Warm Belgian Waffle, with French Vanilla Gelato Pernod Scented 10
Selection of Sorbet or Ice Cream� 6
CREPES
Butter Poached Lobster����� �
With Asparagus Sauce Americaine 15
Roast Chicken and Spinach����� �
With Gruyere and Tomato Hollandaise 12
Championge������ �
Wild Mushroom, Warm Potatoes, Roasted Onion, and Sauce Mornay 15
[...] Meal Ticket has a slideshow and the menu for Grey Social,� French bistro spot that is promisingly swimming against the Old City current. [Meal Ticket] [...]
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| Tony Cenicola/The New York Times |
Eric Asimov unravels the mysteries of stout in the New York Times today, tasting 19 bottles of the North American versions of the United Kingdom classic.
PEOPLE get stuck on the word stout. It confuses, the way it connotes size and fleshiness. And the color, too � inky, impenetrable black � suggests mass and power. As a result, many people think stout is a formidable blockbuster of an ale, heavy and alcoholic, just the way they assume darker roasts of coffee have more caffeine than lighter roasts. Nothing could be further from the truth.
Stout in its classic form is one of the lighter ales, paradoxically full-bodied yet delicate.
As a bartender with a nitro tap devoted to Sly Fox O'Reilly's Stout, a local riff on the quintessential dry, roasty Irish stout that most of us tasted first in Guinness, people daily wrinkle their noses when I suggest they try the black brew.� "It's so heavy. It makes me feel so full," is the common refrain.
Nevermind that a dry Irish stout has fewer calories (about 100 per 12 ounces) and less alcohol (4.5 to 6 percent for most; excepting big Imperial or double styles)� than a typical IPA.�� The solution?� Read Asimov's rundown for the top tastes in their field, then taste a fresh, sprightly local version -- with your eyes closed.
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| Courtesy of Jolly's |
Jolly's Dueling Piano Bar (2006 Chestnut St.), which Meal Ticket has been following for a few months now, opens to the public this coming Friday, Oct. 30 (a World Series off day) at 3 p.m. Here's a peek inside Jolly Weldon's new 125-seat space, the centerpiece of which will be two baby grands (not pictured) that'll double as battle stations for pianists Anthony "Tony T" DeCarolis and "Wildman Joe" Marchetti (more on concept here). On Friday, the music, which'll normally run Tuesday to Saturday from 8 p.m. on, will begin early, at 6; Jolly's first day will also see the unveiling of their happy hour (6-8 p.m.), which'll feature $3 cocktails, $3 wine/beer and $3 eats (sliders, flatbread pizzas, hummus, guac, etc.).
After the jump, more interior pics, a few looks at the food and the opening menu/drink list.
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| Courtesy of Jolly's |
Here are the specialty cocktail list and the small-plates menu, the latter of which was put together by chef/caterer Brendan Smith, owner of the nearby *smiths restaurant | lounge (39-41 S. 19th St.):
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| Click to enlarge | |
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| Have a beer, dear. |
Saturday, Oct. 31 is the deadline for entering your best home-brewed beer into M�m�'s (2201 Spruce St.) second homebrew competition going down Nov. 3.� Visit the restaurant Wednesday through Saturday between 1 and 4 p.m. with a sample of your best-home brewed offering for chef/owner David Katz to try: the top ten entries will be judged by attendees as well as beer experts George Hummel (Home Sweet Homebrew), Suzanne Woods (BeerLass) and Chris Fetfatzes (Bella Vista Beer Distributors) for a winner-takes-all prize of Best In Show.
The $25 event ticket buys samples of all the homebrews, plus plenty of beer from sponsors Sly Fox, Victory, Unibroue and Ommegang.� Guest chef Joe Chmiko of Resurrection Ale House will be plating up lamb skewers, roasted cauliflower with sweet and sour onions and pan con tomate, homemade grilled bread with chorizo, tomato and manchego cheese -- all items from Resurrection's lunch/dinner menu.� Host chef/owner David Katz will throw down tasty bites as well, but today is the man's birthday and we're not calling him on his day off.
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| Photo | Drew Lazor |
Chew Man Chu, in the Symphony House at Broad and Pine, opens to the public this coming Wednesday, Oct. 28. Tons of photos and info after the jump.
This noodle/dumpling bar concept (first mentioned earlier this month) represents a dramatic shift from Grims' first Du Jour city location, which the restaurateur (Moshulu, White Dog, The Inlet, Daddy O's) opened in Symphony House in the summer of 2008 � there's nothing quite like Chew in this part of the city, so they're hoping it becomes both a dining destination as well as a regular lunch/dinner drop-in for near neighbors (they're doing takeout, curbside pick-up and delivery). Du Jour's hyper-mod interior is now done up with plenty of deep, sexy reds, oranges and purples, with neat talking points like the wall of koi fish-laden plates behind the bar and a chef's counter where guests can watch the cooks work a giant steam cooker and a triumvurate of huge woks.
Chew's chef is Tyson Wong Ophaso, who learned the ropes in France working under titans like Paul Bocuse and Daniel Boulud before landing in NYC and opening/running a number of restaurants, most notably Chinatown Brasserie. In 2007, he relocated to Cali in 2007 to join the Domaine Restaurant Group as a corporate chef. (It was during this Left Coast stint that Ophaso fought Masaharu Morimoto on an ep of Iron Chef America, where he was edged in Battle Curry.) Grims brought Ophaso on board about five months back, primarily for his in-the-works 300-seat concept in Commerce Square (code name "Ginger"), but the chef ended up tacking on this project, too.
The gregarious Ophaso was kind enough to walk us through a portion of his tour-of-Asia menu, which is big (50-plus items) but not expensive ($19's the top asking price, and most items are designed for sharing). What we sampled, in photo order (see full menu below):
- Roti with yellow curry
- Chili sauce, chili vinegar and soy sauce (all housemade)
- Vegan dumplings
- Shrimp dumplings
- Soup dumplings (oxtail, blue crab, pork shoulder; in a broth of Chinese white wine, tarragon jus and black vinegar)
- Crispy Chinese salad (sans chicken spring rolls)
- Five spice pork belly bun
- Housemade pancakes
- Mooshu (chicken or tofu/veg)
- Salt and pepper shrimp with spicy garlic aioli
- Pork and shrimp potstickers
- Shrimp curry
- Korean-style barbecue kalbi (short rib)
- Fried doughnuts with honey and powdered sugar
Ophaso, who's Thai, Chinese and Indonesian by descent, is adamant about the fact that he's not reinventing anything with Chew's menu � rather, he's focused on sharing clean, simple flavors from Southeast Asia and beyond and fixating on quality by producing everything in-house, including his own recipe for soy sauce. The chef's high-end pedigree probably shines through most prominently, though, in his plating, which is absolutely gorgeous for this price point (see those salt and pepper shrimp).
Here's the opening menu, plus the beer, wine and cocktail lists:
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| Click to enlarge | |
How is it possible that no reviews mention the horribly racist graphics/bad pun combo? If it's meant to be ironic, it's lost on me.
Had a GREAT dinner there last night! Bumpin atmosphere and food was delish!
Great addition to the Grims family of restaurants. Good luck Marty and Chef Ophaso. The pictures look awesome. I can't wait to try everything.
[...] the Fat with Chew Man Chu Owner Marty Grims [Grub Street] Chew Man Chu in pictures [Meal Ticket] Something to Chu On [Daily Candy] geopress_addEvent(window,"load", function() { [...] Did not enjoy the food @ friends and family to greesy......sorry
"Friends and Family" is typically off the record - part of the shake down process. Raising issues directly to the restaurant management is far more helpful and appropriate than a public announcement.
[...] Marty Grims just called Meal Ticket to let us know that Sunday was the last night for Chew Man Chu, the Asian eatery he opened in October at the Symphony House at Broad and Pine. He cites a rough review from the Inquirer’s Craig [...]
Amidst apocalyptic typhoons Saturday night, 18 guests squeezed into Philly Kitchen Share (1514 South St.) to taste Tim McGinnis and Brian McManus'� interpretation of their Philadelphia Weekly cover story collaboration with Adam Erace, Must Eats. Together with guest chef Brad Jennings, the Spinal Tapas founders dished out nine courses based on the city's can't-miss plates. Team Meal Ticket was kindly treated to the experience by the event's organizers.
Highlights included green pickles and beets from A.J.'s Pickle Patch to start things off on a crisp note; a black sea bass ceviche with an addictive tamari romesco sauce based on a Chifa dish; the sticky-zippy contrast of a fennel and fig mostarda with stinky Taleggio (the condiment to Fiorella's hot fennel-seed sausage on Parc baguette) and a transcendent braised lamb shoulder with lamb and veal demi and tarragon on more lovely Parc baguette, based on Michael Solomonov's dish at Zahav.
McGinnis assured Meal Ticket that this evening was just the first of many Spinal Tapas dinners. "You know StudioKitchen?" he asked, referring to chef Shola Olunloyo's signature multi-course tasting dinners served in his home. "We're going to do StudioKitchen for the common man."
See the full menu for the Must Eats dinner in Drew Lazor's preview post.
I had fun. The food was great. Does anyone really need to worry about anything more than that at dinner? I'll see you next year/time.
i don't think they should be allowed to do another one. if they were going to actually have chefs/people who actually made the dishes it would be a good idea. but to do their amateur versions is lame and insulting to the creators. i was also told by two people who went that it wasn't very good at all
All 3 went to culinary school and all have worked extensively in professional kitchens. McGinnis studied in France and teaches culinary arts at a high school with Jennings. Please get your facts straight before you comment. They are all pros and the food was fantastic. as for "allowed to do another one" Who do you think can stop them?
PhillyGreg, First, reinterpretation of dishes is very close to the soul of cooking. There is nothing insulting or amateurish about the pursuit nor about the event in question. In fact, many of the "original" dishes that McGinnis and company riffed on were themselves interpretations derived from world cuisine. Reinterpretation is an engine of innovation. It is one of the ways that cooking grows as a form of expression. Second, I am not sure where you are getting your information on the quality of the food that evening. I do not agree with your secondhand opinion. I attended and enjoyed my evening thoroughly. I recommend you try one. The menu was an interesting concept: thoughtfully designed from primary research and crisply executed right in front of us. It was also accessible (remember the "common man" part), nothing on the menu was arcane or daunting (It's Philly after all). All the while, the chefs and hostesses spun and cooked and quipped and made everyone right at home. This is not to say that there were not aspects they could work on, some dishes could have used an extra dimension - I personally would have liked one more note from the tempura green beans, the flavor was all in the sauce. From a presentation standpoint, there are some amenities needed at the Kitchen Share facility to make it a better venue for this type of event. In fairness it was not first conceived as Kitchen to entertain in, it is primarily a business incubator for the culinary industry. All 3 chefs have a legit background with room to grow and I wish them the best of luck while they do. I will attend the next one as well. Hope to see you there.
@ phillygreg-It was the best idea to have the people who didn't create the dishes prepare them. Maybe u missed the part of the article you're commenting on when the writer says it was their interpretation. The food was awesome! It was the best way to get a taste of some of the great food in this city. And in case your mother never told you, imitation is the best form of flattery.
[...] far Spinal Tapas McMasterminds Tim McGinnis and Brian McManus have tackled Philly Weekly’s 50 Must-Eats cover story, the legendary barbecue of Texas and flavors emerging from Peru’s culinary [...]
[...] Dating back to October ‘09, we�ve talked plenty about Tim McGinnis and Brian McManus (aka Spinal Tapas), Philly Kitchen Share�s frequent occupants/dinner party hosts. Here�s the latest for yas: On Saturday, June 12, the “McMasterminds” will mix it up with Yards for a Brawler Pugilist Style Ale Dinner. [...]
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| Courtesy of 10 Arts |
Monica Glass at 10 Arts (The Ritz Carlton, 10 S. Broad St.) has caught the Phever, and it seems to be contagious, as it's spreading into her work. These red velvet Phillies cupcakes are the latest edition to the pastry chef's mini cupcake trio, which is available both at lunch and dinner for $10. Wonder if Glass, chef Jennifer Carroll and the rest of the 10 Arts crew have challenged the Le Bernardin mothership over the impending World Series. What would two of Eric Ripert's kitchens draw up as terms, anyway? Buckets of caviar? Scrubbing each other's walk-ins? Ripert doing a lap around the dining room dressed as the Phanatic? (So Phrench!)
Three mini cupcakes are ten bucks? What the fuck?
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