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Archive: December, 2009
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| TwitPic | Campo's Deli |
Campo's in Old City (214 Market St.) has put together quite the patriotic cheesesteak in honor of tomorrow's Army-Navy game at the Linc. The "Flying SUBmarine" ($8) is your choice of meat (chicken or steak), roasted tomatoes in blue cheese sauce, American cheese (USA! USA!) and crumbled blue corn tortilla freedom chips. It's too bad it's available this weekend only, as we wanted to eat this sandwich while blasting Van Halen's "Running with the Devil" on a hot pink boombox from inside a voting booth/riding in a tank wearing a sweet helmet and waving the stars and bars/gently petting an eagle on its majestic bald head.
[...] one thinks of Campo’s Deli (214 Market St.), “vegetarian-friendly” might not be the first descriptor that comes to mind. But now the Old City staple is adding a cheesesteak to its ever-growing vegetarian menu, featuring [...]
Baker/chef Nick Bronson was profiled by CP back in 2007, and eventually started contributing to our food pages. He tells Meal Ticket that he left his post as chef at South Philly's Michael's Cafe (reviewed back in May) less than a month back to get back in the dough -- he's now kneading away for Northeast Philly's lauded Wild Flour Bakery.
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Stephen Starr made his first appearance on Bravo's Top Chef during Season 5's Restaurant Wars episode. For Top Chef Las Vegas, he sat at the Final Table during last night's finale episode. Meal Ticket caught up with the restaurateur today to get his thoughts on the experience.
Some Top Chef fans here in the city are sore over the fact that they always identify you as the owner of Morimoto and Buddakan in New York, but gloss over all your restaurants in Philly. What's up with that?
The first time I was on [Top Chef New York], it was a totally new experience, and I had no idea what they would do. I had barely watched the show and I didn't know much about it. I don't know why they didn't say that. If I do it again, I would make sure they say that I'm the owner of restaurants in both Philly and New York. My guess is they're sort of not giving us the respect we deserve, just honing in on New York. And of course, that's ridiculous. Philly is our home, and most of what I do is here.
Did you feel as though the format for this final table �� mandatory dessert, the "mystery box" � damaged the finalists' ability to showcase their strengths?
It probably hurt them. It's like playing in the World Series in 60-degree temperatures or 40-degree temperatures. What's easier on the pitcher and batter? It's better when things are controlled. If they figure out how to do their best and plan it in their heads, I think it'd be much easier and better.
Now I don't know when Tom Colicchio actually told them [about the various twists]. It might have been 7 in the morning. So if they were told that at 7 a.m., it's not as much as a curveball, since we taped until the late afternoon. But generally speaking, my answer would be that those curveballs would only hurt the chefs.
How long did the taping for the Final Table actually last?
Five or six hours? I don't know. I have all these confidentality agreements so I can only give you the broad view.
Based on what you tasted, do you feel as though the right chef came out on top?
It was really close. And at the end of the day, I was not the judge who made those decisions. I really liked that dessert with the pumpkin seeds. It was really good. People said it was dried out, but it didn't matter � the flavors and consistencies were really good. I think that dessert was from the guy that won [Michael Voltaggio]. Bryan [Voltaggio] did the venison � that may have been the best [entr�e]. But if memory serves me well, I think that the right guy won.
I don't watch these things very often. I'm really way too busy to watch them every week, but I read on the Internet when people are like, "So and so should've won." But there's no way you can know who should've won by watching TV. You gotta eat it! I think that people really develop a fondness for the characters, like that guy with the beard [Kevin Gillespie]. He was a very folksy, likeable guy.
With so many palates at one table, there was bound to be some disagreements about specific dishes, right? Any disputes or differences in opinion that didn't make it onto the show?
Not really ... there were no major disagreements on this one. Tom Colicchio is excellent, by the way � he really is almost a professor with his analysis of food. My opinions are very basic � which may be better � but Tom's are so much astute and prolific. He's really good.
Taking their styles and cooking in consideration, which of the three chefs would you most like to hire for one of your restaurants?
If you really want me to be very honest with you, the conditions by which we eat this food, the number of dishes we have � it's not even close to being enough for me to determine if I would do a restaurant with them. If I were a judge the whole time, sure, I could figure it out.
Funny you say that, because leading up to the Final Table, they had the contestants saying stuff like, "This could make or break our careers!"
It's a television show, you know? It's a very well-done and successful one. It's inspired a lot of people to not only watch, but to want to cook.
You said you didn't care for the inclusion of bacon in Kevin's dessert. Safe to say we'll never see a bacon-laden dessert at a Starr restaurant?
Chefs are experimenting with lots of stuff, and pork has become a very important ingredient in cooking. Of course, it's always been. [That type of dessert] is being done a lot now ... but putting pork in a dessert for me is just gross. I don't want pig ice cream.
So are you not into that vein of experimentation?
When you're a young chef and you just start doing stuff for the sake of doing stuff ... your foundation needs to be strong. Your knowledge of classic techniques needs to be awesome. Then I think you start to play. That's the danger in cooking shows and things like this. Maybe a lot of people are going too quickly to the experimental stage before they have the basics down pat.
What are the chances of seeing a Top Chef season set in Philly in the future?
I don't know. Of course I put my two cents in that they should do that. I've pushed the producers. I told them they need to come to Philly, it's a great culinary town. I think they are considering it.
I, for one, have been miffed that Starr has been solely identified with New York in his TC appearances (I mean, I know he's a mogul, but he's OUR mogul, right?), but I certainly believe him when he says he'll make sure he's associated with Philly next time out. Thanks for asking him about it, Drew! And Mr. Starr, you are a terrific judge so don't forget us next time they ask you to appear!
Great Questions! Stephen Starr sounds hilarious! I think my favorite part is when he refers to Kevin as "that guy with the beard" and "folksy"
Top Chef Philadelphia would be awesome!!!
[...] Tom Colicchio Wants To Open A Restaurant In Philadelphia And *GASP* Maybe Even Film Top Chef Here [The Illadelph] Interview: Stephen Starr discusses the Top Chef Las Vegas Final Table [Meal Ticket] [...]
The great thing about acquiring NBC Universal is that Comcast just needs to command Bravo to film Top Chef here.
When I hear "Stephen Starr," I automatically think about Philadelphia. Maybe it's because I'm from Baltimore, and Philly is closer to me? And I have only eaten at Morimoto in Philly, but never in his NY outposts.
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| bravotv.com |
Last night, Top Chef's sixth season wrapped up in fairly dramatic fashion. Dramatic chair-leaning was involved.
First off, it should be said that this final three � brothers Bryan and Mike, and Kevin � is, in my opinion, the strongest in the show's history. Unlike last season, when I (and some of the rest of y'all, i'm guessing) boo-hissed at my screen due to the groan-inducing nature of the conclusion, I knew that all the remaining finalists were worthy adversaries for one another. While it's easy to argue that these three were groomed from the outset by producers based on their manifold archetypal value � tall good-looking blonde dudes! vicious sibling rivalries! jolly Southern gentlemen! pork fetishes! tattoos! beards! � you can't knock the numbers: This threesome combined to win 12 of the 13 elimination challenges this season. No joke.
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| bravotv.com |
To be honest, I was surprised and a little disappointed that they decided to switch up the free-for-all format of the final challenge this year. While in previous seasons the judges had final cheftestants cook up whatever they pleased (the transcendently beautiful Padma would always say something melodramatic like "cook us the best meal of life," and then make a series of sensual gesticulations), this year's ultimate challenge carried a barrage of stipulations and limitations that I believe hampered the overall results for the worse. At first, Bryan, Mike and Kevin are told that of the three courses they're required to cook, they'll have free reign over only one. For the other two, one must feature ingredients out of a Chopped mystery box (above � rockfish, kobacha squash, meyer lemon, etc.), and the other � the other must be DESSERT. Nooooooo.
Before they get their prep started, the chefs draw knives to see which eliminated contestants will back them up in the kitchen. Kevin pulls Preeti (who was probably offended by this facepalm-worthy WaPo correction) and Ash. Mike adds Jessi ("She's a workhorse") and Eli to his team. Bryan gets Ashley as well as our girl Jen.
While the three finalists sit and stew in a really nice hotel room, they're thrown for yet another loop when their adorable mothers show up and immediately start crying and matting down their sons' cowlicks with spitty fingers. This, of course, translates into even more work for the guys � now that mamadukes action is in the house, they have to tack on a fourth course, one inspired by a favorite childhood dish.
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| bravotv.com |
The cheftestants cook, Kev gets mad at Preeti for chopping veggies too slow, Bryan reveals that he hunts to "be more in tune with his ingredients," yeahyeahyeah. The final table, at Douglas Keane's Cyrus, features all the usual suspects, plus a murderers' row of big-deal restaurateurs, including Sam Nazarian, Donatella Arpaia and Philly's own Stephen Starr.
Kevin's mom dish, chicken skin over a complex squash casserole, is a huge hit. His mystery box dish features a wack matsutake mushroom, and his pork belly is also poorly received � odd, since pig is his wheelhouse. His similarily kosher-unfriendly dessert, a banana/peanut/chocolate/bacon deal, moves Starr to declare that he doesnt't want pork in his sweets.
Bryan's mom-homage sardine starter wins praise, but his sous-vide rockfish mystery box dish is deemed too safe by Gail. His venison/sunchoke pur�e main, on the other hand, is a smash, as is his polished dulce de leche cheesecake to round it all out.
Finally � Mike dehydrates broccoli for his childhood memory plate (he was a picky eater), but serves an iffy spot prawn with it. His dashi-glazed rockfish is generally well-received, and the same goes for his squab breast with pistachio cassoulet and 'shrooms. A chocolate/caramel/squash coulant/brulee combo for dessert doesn't quite come full circle.
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| bravotv.com |
At judges' table, Kevin's zapped at the outset (the unfortunate timing of some personal issues might've played a part), so it comes down � much to Bravo's devious glee, I'm sure � to the Voltaggio brothers (have I mentioned that they have a SIBLING RIVALRY?!). Bryan's food is "well-presented and beautifully constructed," says Tom C, while his brother "reached high, and often delivered." So who the hell is rightly supposed to take this thing?
Mike Voltaggio is your new Top Chef, winning $125,000, the title, and psychological dominance over his older brother for years to come.
Questions and thoughts for y'all (let's hear what you have to say in the comments):
- Hell of a close call between these two, based on both season-long success and finale performance. What, at the end of the day, do you think bumped Mike past Bryan?
- What went wrong for Kevin in this episode?
- What did you think of all these final-table curveballs � the mystery box, the mandatory dessert, the mom course? Good to level the playing field? Or squelching for the competitors?
- How much of a role � in any � did the Voltaggio sibling rivalry play in both of them to the very end?
- Is Mike the father of Padma's baby?
Check back on Meal Ticket a little later, when we'll chat with Stephen Starr about the Final Table.
I'm kind of disappointed that Michael won. Kevin had my vote going into it... but I guess divorce trumps top chef cause buddy seemed so sad and out of it. I'm also sad no one brought back Mattin or Ron asking for a sword. Preeti, however, is just terrible. And can Toby Young just go away for good? He's terrible and I don't want to hear about the atom bombs of taste exploding in his mouth... maybe bring back Michael Chiarello full time? :) Or if it must be a critic bring back Gael Greene and her hats. Sad that Top Chef Recaps are over... great job this season! (no photoshop this time?) Can you do weekly recaps of Jersey Shore to tide us over until the next season? Just a suggestion...
In the end it felt a bit like it was scripted to me, maybe even from the beginning, with the 'sibling rivalry' promos. Also, the brothers ALREADY worked for the big guys, had restaurants and even a Michelin star, so, what did they really need from Top Chef? Watched finale at 10 Arts, in front of the only TV that you could hear. Michael had more bravado w food and deserved the win, I think. It was a bit much though, w momma hugging one while looking at the other-perfect cheap reality TV. I thought there was more talent this season, obviously, but I think it was the worse season, except for our own JEN of course.
Best season, worst finale. Curveballs aren't necessary in the finale. It's better when they have free reign.
Wait, Kevin is single!?!? Holy moly, I am moving to Atlanta. Any boy who has a pig tattooed on his arm is destined to be my husband. I was team Kevin from the beginning, I think he was the strongest chef without using gimmicks that Michael used. If he had a bad day though, I think Michael was the runner up. I really didn't enjoy the restrictions that they imposed this season. If there were any season I wanted to see what they could do it would be them. I did like the mom bit though, because I'm cheesy and sentimental like that. I can't wait to see if they can keep this level of talent up next year. Awesome updates this season!! If you can throw some random photoshopping skills into Mealticket it would be much appreciated.
Last night felt like a regular episode to me. Sort of bland compared to some other episodes this season.
Great recap I will miss them! Will you do one final recap for the reunion show next week, please?! I have so many thoughts on Kevin from the episode. First, I believe there is direct correlation between Kevin's cooking and the height/style of his hair. Second, It's super sad that he separated from his wife right before :( Finally, he got Preeti! He might as well have only got one helper. This season finale was sooo boring and I hated the mystery box dealie. I would have been happier if Bryan won but honestly once Kev was sent packing it didn't matter. I think Mike I. is the father of Padmas's baby they always had a weird flirtation. She would coo his name during quickfires.
Agreed on this being the best 3 ever. Still think the finale was a little weird and anti-climactic. I could just feel Kevin's confidence slipping away after they put all those rules on. I'm not so mad at them setting up a brother vs. brother finale because they kept away from a lot of the cheap reality-show-style tactics this time, and both of them are good. Mike has some really intricate things going on and I could tell it was going to be him. I know the judges always like to say that it's better to be simple and make food that represents you, but they harped on Bryan a couple times recently for not seasoning his dishes enough, and they wanted Kevin to do more with the pork. I think Mike wins for complexity. My guess: Padma's baby dady is Sam from season 2. She was always way too in favor of him, and he came back for guest spots several times after, with her looking very excited to see him.
Ok, I am still very much Kevin 4eva and his little sad face and mom time broke my heart. Mike is DEF the father of Padma's baby-- the way that he said "Here's that emotion you wanted, Padma" when he won? Come on! He was referring to his stone cold demeanor when she told him she was with child. Also, I bet that Eli was bummed that he wasn't in the final three since they got a visit from their moms! But it's ok I guess because she was probably sitting with him on the couch that they share, consoling him for his loss. P.S. J Leo, can you blame Padma for always being in favor of Sam from Season 2? Sexy Diabetic!
Poncho: Agreed! The reunion show def needs a recap, especially because Kevin is supposed to drop some moralistic bombshell and because that dude they have hosting the reunion shows is kind of a bitch. I hated the mystery box. I like the ProjRunway final curveballs because they are supposed to continue the ideas already present in their collection. Forcing constraints on "the best meal of their lives" is unfair and taints the results. It played to Michael's strengths of out-there creativity, while ignoring Brian's impeccable technique and Kevin's penchant for simplicity. Also, Michael blows.
Social comments and analytics for this post... This post was mentioned on Twitter by mealticket: TOP CHEF LAS VEGAS Season Finale recap (read, comment!): http://tr.im/HgZ8...
[...] Top Chef D.C. really snuck the hell up on us, did it not? It seemed like just yesterday that we were bambling incoherently about Kevin’s fire-engine-red beard and our jawsome girl [...]
In the end it felt a bit like it was scripted to me, maybe even from the beginning, with the 'sibling rivalry' promos. Also, the brothers ALREADY worked for the big guys, had restaurants and even a Michelin star, so, what did they really need from Top Chef? Watched finale at 10 Arts, in front of the only TV that you could hear. Michael had more bravado w food and deserved the win, I think. It was a bit much though, w momma hugging one while looking at the other-perfect cheap reality TV. I thought there was more talent this season, obviously, but I think it was the worse season, except for our own JEN of course.
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Tonight at 8, P.Y.T. in the Piazza is hosting It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia Quizzo, which we believe is the first Quizzo of its kind in the city. The three-round competition, hosted by P.Y.T. bartendress L'oreal (she also wrote all the questions), will feature gift certificates to Tommy Up's burger joint ($75, $50 and $25) as prizes, plus pitchers of beer as a reward for bonus rounds. It's Always Sunny's season finale airs at 10 p.m., after which point they'll kick off a game of "Flipadelphia" (aka the flip cup tourney featured in tonight's ep) at the bar.
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| Photo l Jessica Kourkounis |
| Octopus carpaccio with olives and citrus at Fish |
-- Can you guess the major difference between a big Fish and a Little Fish?� Seems like the answer is chicken skin!� And a liquor license. Trey Popp is lured by Mike Stollenwerk's Fish.
--� David Snyder voyages north of Vine to CityView condos' newest restaurant tenant, NoVi.�� Ingredients of suspicious origin, harassed service and "gnocchi heavy enough to bend space-time" make this one an unfortunate No Thanks.
-- Where can you go wild over radicchio, eat Christmas dinner like zee Parisians do, hobnob with the Slow Food Society and attempt to taste every fine holiday ale?� Erin Mae Szrankowski reveals all in What's Cooking.
-- Tortilla Press Cantina gets a second shot at life and Zack's Caf� keeps it under $6 right now;� WMD Hot Sauce and Green Eggs Caf� are still on the waiting list.� Read all about it in Drew Lazor's Feeding Frenzy.
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| Photo | Drew Lazor |
Got word that tomorrow's public hearing on the liquor license for Brew (1900 S. 15th St.), which was originally scheduled for 10 a.m., has been pushed back to 1 p.m. Location is the same � the old Strawbridge's building at 801 Market, entrance at the Marshall's. Attendees � meaning, those who have already submitted their names � are asked to arrived early (12:30 p.m.) and bring government-issued ID.
For the full rundown on Brew's liquor license controversy and the overall purpose of this meeting, check out our Nov. 30 post.
Social comments and analytics for this post... This post was mentioned on Twitter by foobooz: RT @mealticket: Time change for tomorrow' Brew/@ultimocoffee hearing: http://tr.im/HfsU...
On Monday, we shared a bit about chef Steven Cameron's October departure from Noble (2025 Sansom St.), as well as a statement from co-owner Todd Rodgers that Cameron's replacement would be announced this week. That deal's done: Brinn Sinnott, who's put in work at Lacroix, Supper, Amada and Pumpkin, will take over the post. We'll have more details on what Sinnott plans on doing with the menu soon.
[...] a month back, we dropped word that Brinn Sinnott (Lacroix, Supper, Amada) would be taking over the kitchen at Noble (2025 Sansom St.), replacing [...]
M�m� (2201 Spruce St.) chef/owner David Katz announced today via Facebook that he will be cooking at NYC's famed James Beard House (167 W. 12th St., Manhattan) on March 23, 2010.
Passed hors d'oeuvres and sparkling wine will precede a five-course meal with wine pairings; the menu will go up on the James Beard House Web site some time after the New Year.� Philadelphians interested in making a night of it out in New York can make reservations for the dinner at 212-627-2308.
UPDATE: Here's a little insider tip for ya � to get a special "friends of the restaurant" rate of $125/head, use the secret password "THYME" when calling to make a reservation. you MUST utter the password to get access to the special price. How cloak and dagger!
[...] David Katz of Meme will be cooking at the James Beard House on March 23rd. The dinner will include an hour of hors d’oeuvres and sparkling wine followed by a 5-course dinner with wine pairings. Call 212-627-2308 for reservations. If you say you’re “a friend of the restaurant” you get the member price of $125. [Meal Ticket] [...]
[...] (2201 Spruce St.)� would be taking their refined rustic cuisine to New York City when chef/owner David Katz cooks at the James Beard House (167 W. 12th St., Manhattan) on March [...]
[...] we mentioned back in, David Katz of M�m� (2201 Spruce St.) will be doing his thing at the James Beard House next Tuesday. That translates to a hell of a lot of prep work. But instead of closing his restaurant outright, [...]
Tomorrow night at Time (1315 Sansom St.), check out a whiskey dinner featuring a seven-course meal from chef Josh McCullough paired with seven different whiskeys hand-picked by master of whiskey Michael Parducci. Tix are $70 and include a cocktail in addition to the pairings. Monkfish in chicken skin with a Talisker 10 Year? OK! Full menu here (PDF).
Nice announcement about the re-opening of Tortilla Press Cantina in Pennsauken. Food is good - ART is great! Walls full of colorful paintings! Check it out.
I love Time and the staff who works there- they know so much about bourbon/whiskey/scotch without being pretentious. I hope they do more of these dinners!
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