Archive: April, 2009
|Photo | Neal Santos
- David Snyder feels that Bar Amalfi, the result of chef/owner Al Paris' recent conversion of Mantra, needs a little more finesse before it can break away from the pack.
- Trey Popp falls into a wrinkle in time and lands at Stogie Joe's, Kristian Leuzzi's (not-too-dramatic) renovation of the old-school Passyunk Tavern. It's a neighborhood bar ï¿½ and he's keeping that way.
- In What's Cooking, the perpetually in-the-know Lauren Fleming tells you about this weekend's Headhouse Farmers Market debut, the River Wards Restaurant Week, a benefit for the Urban Nutrition Initiative and more.
- Details on Kibitz Room, Noble American Cookery and the Northeast's JT's Philadelphia House, all up in Feeding Frenzy.
|Ricki Land O Lakes|
FOOD'LEBRITIES merges the faces you know with the flavors you crave with awesomely ridiculous results.
Check out Cindy Lobster, The Chex Pistols and Goudacris on the frequently-updated site.
Tomorrow kicks off Restaurant Week in Kensington, Fishtown and Port Richmond.ï¿½ Take a peek at the article I wrote for Keystone Edge on the newest and hippest of the Restaurant Weeks.
To the young newcomers who have flocked north of Center City Philadelphia in search of affordable housing, Fishtown, Kensington and Port Richmond seem like real estate prayers answered. These post-industrial, car-friendly communities still retain the grit of the Irish, German and Polish immigrants who settled them in the early 19th century, but have been lent an edgy credibility by artists and craftsmen seeking warehouse live-and-work spaces. Following the last decade's wave of gentrification are the restaurants and cafï¿½s who feed and entertain these locals old and new.
From Friday, May 1 to Wednesday, May 6, twelve restaurants in the river wards will feature specials designed to attract diners northward and out of their comfort zones. This Restaurant Week is a collaboration between local restaurant owners and the New Kensington Community Development Corporation (NKCDC), an organization seeking to grow the community by supporting sustainable business.
The three distinct 'hoods now known as Kensington, Port Richmond and Fishtown were collectively designated the Kensington District in 1820. The precise borders of each are still a topic of dispute today, with the only inarguable lines at Girard Avenue to the south and the Delaware River to the east.ï¿½ Though the official northern political border is Norris Street, York Street divided the two Catholic parishes of Port Richmond and defined neighborhood identities since the earliest years of the 20th century.
Neighborhood identities still have the power to inflame passions in these historically working-class neighborhoods. Attending grade school in the mid-eighties, Port Richmond native Rob Cooper was taunted as a "Kenzo" by his classmates, since he lived on the wrong side of York Street. Kensington was always seen as the toughest and roughest of the river wards, dominated politically by the K&A Gang, known as the Irish Mob. After textile, fishing and metal working industries fled the area in the 1950s, K&A (Kensington and Allegheny Avenues) became well known as the corner to score heroin and pick up prostitutes. Philadelphia filmmaker David S. Kessler documents Kensington's continuing struggle with poverty and addiction in Shadow World, his hypnotic series of encounters with strangers under the elevated train tracks.
Such dark associations still dog the steps forward by the river ward neighborhoods, although organizations like the NKCDC are putting forth a huge efforts to support economic development through revitalization of abandoned buildings into affordable housing, greening vacant land, microloans to small business owners and community organizations. Restaurant Week in the river wards showcases their improving conditions and highlights what makes them tempting places to live--walkable, family-friendly cafï¿½s, a growing art and gallery scene and like-minded neighbors bent on beautifying streets.
Keeping residents' discretionary dollars in the neighborhood is a priority for NKCDC, and in recent years it's been paying off; nine new eateries have opened in the river wards since January 2007. William Reed and Paul Kimport, owners of bellwether gastropub the Standard Tap in Northern Liberties, turned their attentions to the underserved corner of Frankford and Girard Avenues when they purchased and renovated the 40-year old Johnny Brenda's Tavern in 2003. Since then, Johnny Brenda's (1201 N. Frankford Ave., 215-739-9684) has served as the anchor of the expanding neighborhood, serving simple but exceptional food, an all-local, all-draft craft beer selection and adding an acclaimed music venue in 2007. For Restaurant Week, their kitchen celebrates shad--once the mainstay of Philadelphia's colonial fisheries and the creature that gave Fishtown its name--with a three-course, $30 shad-centric special that includes an appetizer, entrï¿½e and dessert.
The strength of the river wards has always come from ordinary people, and the new wave of restaurateurs has wisely played to working-class wants. Sketch Burger (413 E. Girard Ave., 215-634-3466) crafts the classic American sandwich for every eater--try sirloin, American Kobe, turkey, chicken, vegan or smashed onion burgers, washed down with a dairy or vegan milkshake. During Restaurant Week any non-Kobe burger with two toppings, fries and a shake is just $15.
Jovan's Place (2327 E. York St., 215-634-3330) has been the destination for Yugoslavian home cooking since the 1990s. The family-run bar serves classics like goulash, stuffed cabbage and schnitzel; even the menu takes a parental tone, admonishing you to "be patient" while your food is made to order. During Restaurant Week, $25 buys a three-course meal that will barely leave room for the complimentary quaff of homemade brandy.
When a lavish brunch is in order, the signature Irish Breakfast at Ida Mae's Bruncherie (2302 E. Norris St., 215-426-4209) fills the void in home-style. Stop by Mercer Cafe (2619 E. Westmoreland St., 215-426-2153) for generous Restaurant Week breakfast and lunch specials; NKCDC economic development assistant Kathryn Doherty-Chapman recommends the tuna nicoise salad and French toast. Art classes for children, a live music venue and upstairs gallery add flavor to the offerings at Hinge Cafe (2652 Somerset St., 215-425-6614), with Restaurant Week multi-course choices for three daily meals.
Visit riverwardrestaurants.wordpress.com for details and a complete list of participating eateries.
Interior shot of Ida Mae's
Johnny Brenda's Tavern
As of 3:44 p.m. I got the last of the tripe being served at Shank's & Evelyn's, the S. 10th Street Italian luncheonette that is, after is 48 years in South Philly, closing its doors and moving to 15th and Sansom (into the former J.B. Pastrami's spot). Tomorrow, April 30, is closing day, and Evelyn Perri and daughter Pamela Poppa will be serving food to the locals as a sort of bon voyage until the rabe runs out. But tripe ï¿½ cowï¿½s stomach to the uninitiated ï¿½ wonï¿½t be making the trek to the new location, according to Poppa. Itï¿½s mostly only South Philly old heads and me who like it.ï¿½ So I snagged the last batch with some chicken cutlets to go, while my wife Glamorosi got eggplant parm and veal scaloppini ï¿½ the latter being another dish that won't survive the move.
I thought about it, and I couldn't come up with single reason why I shouldn't post this. Cheers to you, DJ Steve Porter.
SNACK TIME: Hey kids! B is for Beer!, yet more steakhouse shakeups, Shank & Evelyn's endgame, youthful elitism vs. recessionary reality, homemade mayonnaise by the half-egg
Every Wednesday, Meal Ticket pokes around the food blog world to see what's simmering.
- Joe Sixpack and the female half of Meal Ticket have more than excessive brew knowledge in common ï¿½ we both worship at the counterculture altar of Tom Robbins, who has beaten us to writing a beer book for kids. Robbins' trademark mind-bending prose is ideal for childhood's long strange trip; read a few chapters on HarperCollins Web site here.
- Union Trust partner Terry White is out like blue eyeshadow, according to Michael Klein at The Insider. White's (former) partners at Union Trust, Ed Doherty and developer Joe Grasso, did not comment on the split. A lightened menu and lower price points are on the docket from new chef de cuisine Kevin Sbraga, former culinary director of Jose Garcesï¿½ Restaurant Group. Shrimp cocktail ceviche, perhaps?
- Shed a tear over your final roast pork with rabe and prov at Shank & Evelyn's, which will serve their last in the Italian Market location tomorrow. MenuPages blog notes that the Poppa family will re-open at 120 S. 15th Street in six to eight weeks.ï¿½ Hopefully the Souf Philly waitresses can venture north without turning into pumpkins. Perky Center City waitrons don't have the style to serve Shank's sandwiches.
- Foodie at Fifteen Nick mourns the addition of a la carte and walk-in dining at his personal "Mt. Olympus," Thomas Keller's Per Se in NYC. Sixteen is old enough to learn that in a recession, nothing is sacred, especially $300 tasting menus.
- Charlotte at Farm to Philly shares her method for splitting a batch of homemade mayo ï¿½ some for now, and some to freeze for later. Kudos to solving a great mystery of the kitchen: What the heck do I do with all this mayo?
|Photos | Drew Lazor|
Thai Singha House To Go, an offshoot of West Philly's long-running Thai Singha House (3939 Chestnut St.), has opened on 20th between Chestnut and Sansom in the former Gianna Jr's (106 S. 20th St., 215-568-2390). They're gunning for the lunchtime Rittenhouse crowd (watch y'all backs, Pad Thai Shack) with budget-priced soups, apps and noodle dishes. (Check out the full menu below.) They deliver from 4 to 9:15 p.m. Hours: Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Sat., 4-9:30 p.m.; closed Sun.
One fun thing of note: In the window, they display a framed City Paper review of their original restaurant, penned by our classical music guy Peter Burwasser. I couldn't find the piece online, but click on the photo for a larger version.
|Click to enlarge|
|Reducing beef consumption could help
halt climate change.
The National Cattlemen's Beef Association has spent $1.5 million and the last five years trying to figure out new ways to slice up a cow, all in the hopes of teaching customers to buy unfamiliar cuts of meat.
The New York Times reports today on this project, financed by the Beef Check-off program, which will debut five new cuts from the familiar chuck steak, and four new cuts from the round. Some seasoned butchers are skeptical of these new cuts, stating that the "Denver," "Petite Tender" and "Sierra" are just the same old pieces trimmed in different ways.
The interesting part of the article is what it doesn't say, which is that the average home cook knows only how to cook steaks and roasts, and cannot be bothered to learn how to cook more flavorful and cheaper off-cuts.ï¿½ï¿½ The Cattlemen's Association therefore has a huge financial interest in identifying cheaper cuts that can be grilled like a steak or stuck in the oven surrounded by carrots and onions.
Writer Kim Severson notes that Americans spend $15.5 billion a year at the supermarket buying beef. In 2008, 1.12 cows were slaughtered every second in America ï¿½ Mark Bittman linked to this pretty amazing graphic on Herbiv.org that illustrates the rate of slaughter of cows, chickens and pigs.
My question to the Cattlemen: how much more beef can we eat? Elke Stehfest of the Netherlands Environmental Assessment Agency and colleagues have studied the carbon impact of animals raised for slaughter. From NewScientist.com:
Climate-change experts have warned of the high carbon cost of meat for several years.
Beef is particularly damaging. Methane, a potent greenhouse gas, is released from flatulent cows and by manure as it decays. Furthermore, to produce a kilogram of beef (2.2 pounds), farmers also have to feed a cow 15 kg of grain and 30 kg of forage. Grain requires fertiliser, which is energy intensive to produce.
If eating habits do not change, Stehfest estimates that emissions would have to be cut by two-thirds by 2050, which is likely to cost around $40 trillion.
If, however, the global population shifted to a low-meat diet ï¿½ defined as 70 grams of beef and 325 grams of chicken and eggs per week ï¿½ around 15 million square kilometres of farmland would be freed up. Vegetation growing on this land would mop up carbon dioxide. It could alternatively be used to grow bioenergy crops, which would displace fossil fuels.
Shifting the argument for reducing meat consumption from the shrill cry of animal rights to a sober environmental analysis is a brilliant approach. Much like casting alternative energy as the way to stop giving hostile nations billions of dollars for fossil fuels, it allows a different segment of the population to latch on to the cause.
Though a $5.99 "Denver" steak could tempt a thrifty home cook into trying a new cut, it's still the same high-cost beef, no matter how you slice it.
As we mentioned earlier today, Noble American Cookery will open at 2025 Sansom next Monday, May 4. Meal Ticket dropped in earlier this afternoon to take a peek at the restaurant that's been cooking for months in what was formerly Gioia Mia.
Bruno Pouget and Todd Rodgers have worked together forever, along with Noble chef Steven Cameron, at the Jersey Shore's Blue, which has been open for 11 years. Despite the restaurant being open only from May to October annually, Cameron was nominated in 2008 for "Best Chef, Mid-Atlantic" by the James Beard Foundation. The partners have decided to not return to Surf City this summer, choosing instead to focus their energies squarely on Noble. Rodgers sees the decision as a logical pattern of growth ï¿½ in many ways, this restaurant is a fully realized urban translation of Blue. (The name Noble, Rodgers says, was coined by a Blue regular who flattered the owners by telling them their meticulous approach to hospitality was a noble pursuit.)
The muted, earth tone-draped space is spread out over two floors. The ground floor features a 20-foot bar crafted out of a solid slab of 45-year-old bubinga, or African rosewood; the piece they sourced was originally 8.5 feet in width, so they broke it down to create a series of four-top tables for the second floor. Up here, around 70 can sit comfortably beneath three gorgeous oversize skylights resting atop the building's original rafters. Though this won't be open to the public, the roof is where Cameron will have an herb garden with three 2-by-12-foot planters growing everything from lettuces to herbs like mint, marjoram and dill.
Continuing with the my-how-Blue's-grown theme, Cameron's menu here is big on seafood, with sustainable fish like wild Atlantic striped bass, Pocono Mountain river trout and Long Island golden tilefish. Meat eaters should look to East Coast-sourced meats like PA-raised cage-free chicken and roasted duck breast from Hudson Valley (they also serve foie gras from that New York purveyor). There's an entirely separate bar menu where prices top out at $12; drink-wise, there's a fully North American selection of beers and wines and a small cocktail list (expect these tipples to be solid, as Pouget's also a partner in APO Bar + Lounge).
Peruse the latest edition of chef Cameron's opening menu, as well as the beer, wine and cocktail lists, after the jump.
GRILLED PORTUGUESE SARDINESï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 12
sweet & sour vegetables, hot mustard
POACHED WHITE ASPARAGUSï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 11
domestic summer truffle, Juniper Grove Farm, OR "Redmondo," fried egg
GRILLED GULF OF MEXICO SHRIMPï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 13
apple & cabbage, cumin broth
BABY ROMAINEï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 10
dried tomato & chili, sherry vinaigrette, farmer cheese, torn chips
BARNEGAT LIGHT SEA SCALLOPSï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 15
watercress, peas, asparagus, avocado, mint
PAN-FRIED VEAL SWEETBREADSï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 12
cucumber, raw honey, herbed cream
ROASTED BABY GOLDEN BEETSï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 10
arugula, pumpkin seed, goat cheese, tarragon vinaigrette
PAN-SEARED HUDSON VALLEY FOIE GRASï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 15
almond scone & puree, roasted grapes, parsley
BATTER-FRIED WILD ATLANTIC SQUIDï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 12
bibb lettuce, heart of palm, grapefruit
CRISPY DUCK CONFITï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 12
chicory, braised fennel, pickled carrot, navel
POTATO PUREEï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 6
RICE & ONION PUDDINGï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 6
MIXED GREENSï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 6
herbs, fried shallots
PAN-ROASTED MUSHROOMS ï¿½ ï¿½ 7
SPRING VEGETABLESï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 7
PAN-ROASTED ATLANTIC STRIPED BASSï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 28
artichoke pasta & broth, fiddlehead, oyster mushroom
ROASTED PENNSYLVANIA CAGE-FREE CHICKEN BREASTï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 25
morel, pea, noodles, leg confit
RYE-DUSTED ALASKAN BLACK SABLEï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 27
mussel chowder & salad, pea puree
POACHED LONG ISLAND GOLDEN TILEï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 24
purple potato salad, shrimp & Smithfield ham dressing, pea tendrils
LEMON-BRAISED GRASS-FED BEEF SHORTRIBï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 29
sweet onion rice pudding, fava relish
GRILLED FREE-RANGE VEAL FLANKï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 25
potato & cheese dumplings, spinach, preserved tomato, roasted garlic
GRILLED ATLANTIC MACKERELï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 23
fried green tomato, smoked chili mayo
PAN-ROASTED GRASS-FED EYE OF RIBEYEï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 38
roasted root vegetables, horseradish whip
SAUTEED POCONO MOUNTAIN RIVER TROUTï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 23
cauliflower puree, girole & shallot pickle, veal jus
ROASTED HUDSON VALLEY DUCK BREASTï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 26
black quinoa, braised escarole, blueberry smash
NOBLE BURGER BURGER OR HOUSEMADE VEGGIE BURGERï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 12
special sauce, cheddar, potato fries, add bacon for $1
FRIED CHICKEN WINGS AND/OR PORK BELLYï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 11
spicy watermelon glaze, feta
CHICKPEA FRIES ï¿½ ï¿½ï¿½ 7ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½
BEER-BRAISED MUSSELSï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 10 ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½
Smithfield ham, leeks, grilled bread
BAR BREAKFASTï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 8
housemade scrapple, pickled eggs, potato fries
POACHED SHRIMP TOSTADAï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 12
avocado, tomatillo, poblano
LEMON CREAMï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 8
angel cake, caramel, meringue, berry
CHOCOLATE TARTï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 8
hazelnut ice cream, grilled breadcrumbs, caramelized banana
SPICED CARROT CAKEï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 8
raisin mincemeat, coconut ice milk
CAPE GOOSEBERRY BREAD PUDDINGï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 8
white chocolate, goose jam
YOGURT BAVARIAN ï¿½ ï¿½ 8
chili chocolate, sesame, herbed strawberry
ASSORTED SORBETS ï¿½ ï¿½ï¿½ 7ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½
Grandma Erpeldingï¿½s sugar cookies
"Saint Olga" River's Edge Chevre, Logsden, OR ï¿½ ï¿½ 6
semi-soft stout-washed raw goat, nutty, rich
"MouCo Blu" MouCo Cheese Co, Fort Collins, COï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 6
pasteurized soft-ripened cow, flossy, bitter chocolate
"Noble" Wakefield Dairy, Peach Bottom, PA ï¿½ ï¿½ï¿½ 7
3-year cave-aged raw cow, grassy, floral
All three cheesesï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ 10
NORTH AMERICAN CRAFT BREW BEER
CRAFT BREW DRAFT ï¿½
-Two Seasonal Craft Brew Drafts
LOCAL CRAFT BREWSï¿½
YARDS BREWING COMPANY (Philadelphia, PA)
-Philadelphia Pale Ale. crisp & hoppy, bursting with citrus flavors & aromasï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ $4
-Brawler. a malt forward, ruby colored English style session aleï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ $4
PHILADELPHIA BREWING COMPANY (Philadelphia, PA)
-Kenzinger. a golden session ale, refreshingly crisp & smoothï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ $4
-Rowhouse Red. a complex ale with flavors of toasted malt & rye ï¿½ ï¿½ $4
STOUDTS BREWING COMPANY (Adamstown, PA)
-Pils. a golden pilsner, clean, crisp & thirst-quenching ï¿½ ï¿½ $4.50
-Heifer-in-Wheat. Bavarian-style unfiltered wheat beer; imparts a flavor & aroma reminiscent of bananas & clovesï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ $4.50
VICTORY BREWING COMPANY (Downingtown, PA)
-Lager. a well-balanced German style lager ï¿½ ï¿½ $4.75
-Whirlwind Witbier. both spicy & sublime, greets the nose & tingles the tongue; a refreshing interpretation of the classic Belgian white ï¿½ ï¿½ $4.75
SLY FOX BREWING COMPANY (Phoenixville, PA)
-Saison VOS. a Belgian-style farmhouse ale; golden orange in color with a dry spicy characterï¿½ 25 ozï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ $17
LANCASTER BREWING COMPANY (Lancaster, PA)
-Milk Stout. a traditional English style sweet stout; a bold, dark ale bursting with barley dryness & mellowed by hints of chocolate & coffeeï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ $4.25
FLYING FISH BREWING COMPANY (Cherry Hill, NJ)
-Belgian Abbey Dubbel. A classic style abbey, with a fruity nose & generous body; malty in the middle with a clean almondy dry finish ï¿½ ï¿½ $4.25
-Extra Pale Ale. an extremely balanced beer with a beautiful straw colorï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ $4.25
FLYING DOG BREWERY (Frederick, MD)
-Old Scratch Amber Lager. a malty, mellow beer, with ale & lager characterï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ $4
-Gonzo Imperial Porter. mysteriously dark, with a rich malty body, intense roasted flavors & a surprising hop kick ï¿½ ï¿½ $6
DOGFISH HEAD CRAFT BREWERY (Milton, DE)
-Indian Brown Ale. a cross between a scotch ale, an IPA & an American brown with notes of molasses, coffee, ginger, raisinettes, & chocolateï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ $5
SOME OTHER GREAT NORTH AMERICAN BREWSï¿½.
SMUTTYNOSE BREWING COMPANY (Portsmouth, NH)
-Shoals Pale Ale. delightfully complex; tangy fruit at the start with an assertive hop crispness, & a long malty palate ï¿½ ï¿½ $4.50
STONE BREWING COMPANY (San Marcos, CA)
-IPA. medium malt character with a heavy dose of over-the-top hopsï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ $5
TWO BROTHERS BREWING COMPANY (Chicago, IL)
-Domaine DuPage French Country Ale. amber colored, full & sweet up front, with caramel, toasty & fruity characters; finishes with a gentle floral & spicy hop that cleanses the palate ï¿½ ï¿½ $4.75
SOUTHAMPTON ALES & LAGERS (Southampton, NY)
-Secret Ale Altbier. copper brown color, with a malty flavor & refreshing hop bitterness ï¿½ ï¿½ $4
ROGUE ALES (Newport, OR)
-Mom Hefeweizen. a Belgian-style blonde; unfiltered fusion of wheat & barley malts, spiced with coriander & gingerï¿½ 22oz ï¿½ï¿½ $15
ALLAGASH BREWING COMPANY (PORTLAND, ME)
-Dubbel. boasts a dark mahogany color with ruby hues & a complex malty taste, the finish is dry with subtle hints of chocolate & nuts ï¿½ ï¿½ $6
BREWERY OMMEGANG (Cooperstown, NY)
-Hennepin. a Belgian saison-style ale with a nice balance & notes of tropical fruit ï¿½ ï¿½ $6
BRECKENRIDGE BREWERY (Denver, CO)
-Avalanche Ale. subtly blended pale & caramel malts, a touch of bitter hopsï¿½ create a refreshing & flavorful anytime beerï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ $4.50
NORTH AMERICAN WINE LIST
Gruet Brut NV, Albuquerque, NMï¿½ $10/50
methode champenoise, crisp & full-bodied, with green apple & grapefruit
J Cuvee 20 Brut NV, Russian River Valley, CAï¿½ $16/66ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½
lemon peel, honeysuckle & yeast, followed by fuji apple, grapefruit & toast
2005 Schramsberg Blanc de Noir, Napa, CAï¿½ $79
aromas of peach melba, toasted almond, fresh raspberry, & bing cherry; alluring flavors of sweet ginger, white gooseberry & mandarin orange
2005 Wolffer La Ferme Martin, Long Island, NYï¿½ $10/48
ripe peaches & mineral notes; vibrant & medium-bodied, with lush, ripe fruit & elegant acidity
2007 Healdsburg Ranches ï¿½unoakedï¿½, Sonoma County, CAï¿½ $13/54
fresh grapefruit, lemons, & pear, with aromas of honey, kumquat & fig
2006 Joseph Carr, Napa, CAï¿½ $57
tropical notes of citrus & pineapple; layers of fruit flavors, with a long mineral finish
2008 Shooting Star, Lake County, CAï¿½ $9/41
notes of fig, melon, gooseberry, & a hint of honey, with a palate of fresh grapefruit, gooseberry, tart lime & a crisp acidic finish
2007 Gainey, Santa Ynez Valley, CAï¿½ $11/43
honeydew melon, white grapefruit, lime, & guava, with sleek racy citrus, melon & spice
2007 Ash Hollow, Walla Walla, WAï¿½ $60
lemon thyme & grass, with a mineral finish
2007 Erath, Willamette Valley, ORï¿½ $11/46ï¿½ï¿½
banana cream pie, hints of lemon & fresh applesauce; juicy flavors of honeydew melon, stone fruits, & palate cleansing acidity
2007 Ravines Keuka Village, Finger Lakes, NYï¿½ $10/41
melon, peach, & mango with floral & mineral notes; fresh fruity off-dry palate, with a nice balance of sweetness & acidity
2007 Bridlewood Viognier Reserve, Central Coast, CAï¿½ $58
honeysuckle, orange blossom, melon, butter toast, & rich tropical fruits, with a creamy texture
2006 Rayï¿½s Station, Alexander Valley, CAï¿½ $10/41
ripe black cherry, plum, & tobacco, with a lingering vanilla oak finish
2005 Hess Allomi Vineyard, Howell Mountain, CAï¿½ $13/57
toffee, vanilla bean, & hickory; black cherry, pomegranate & licorice, with a dark chocolate finish
2006 Joseph Carr, Napa, CAï¿½ $61
black currant, smoke, & saddle; a rich accessible palate of dark cherry & ripe plum with a long elegant finish & soft tannins
2006 Macmurray Ranch, Russian River Valley, CAï¿½ $11/49
pretty bouquet, deep black cherry, & subtle oak
2006 Joseph Carr, Napa, CAï¿½ $15/61
ripe strawberry & floral rose petals on the nose; flavors of sweet black cherry, cassis, spice, & hints of cinnamon, finishing smooth
2007 Siduri, Willamette Valley, ORï¿½ $63
red cherry & mulberry fruit, with hints of spice & distinct floral character
2005 Tin Roof, North Coast, CAï¿½ $6/22
black cherry & plum, tobacco, herbal spice, & chocolate, with a long rich finish
2005 Paso Creek, Paso Robles, CAï¿½ $54
black cherry, tea leaf, plum & cedar
2006 Bridlewood, Central Coast, CAï¿½ $8/34
spice, earth, & dark berrym with violets & plum
2004 Red Diamond, WAï¿½ $9/38
raspberry jam, leather, & pepper, with a floral spice & honey finish
2005 Kinton, Santa Barbara, CAï¿½ $54
racy plum & dark berry, cherry, black pepper & smoky dark chocolate
2004 Jubileo Rosalio Rhone Blend, Baja, MXï¿½ $9/41
earthy nose & mouth filling fruit, with soft tannins, & a medium length finish
2006 Pedroncelli ï¿½Mother Cloneï¿½ Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, CAï¿½ $41notes of banana & cherries, with blueberries & raspberries
the French ï¿½75
gin, sugar, lemon juice, sparkling wine, lemon peel
the TI Jean
rye whiskey, lemon juice, spearmint, house-made ginger beer
tequila, lemon juice, crï¿½me de cassis, apple cider
the Blood & Sand
scotch whiskey, Italian vermouth, cherry heering, orange juice
vodka, gin, Lillet blonde, orange bitters, lemon peel
the Alaska Manï¿½s Luck
pisco, aquavit, French vermouth, St. Germain, honey
rye whiskey, cognac, sugar, Peychaudï¿½s bitters, absinthe wash, lemon peel
the Philadelphia Fish House Punch
rum, cognac, peach brandy, black tea, seltzer
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- The Good Word
- Next Iron Chef
- Arterial Terrorism
- Food and Radio