Archive: April, 2011

The restaurant business, she is a fickle mistress. Despite a trophy case's worth of local and national accolades, Jim and Kristina Burke's haute-seasonal temple James (824 S. Eighth St.) will close in June after a five-year run, as Michael Klein reported last week. One of my favorite restaurants in the city, if I can get personal for a minute. I can still remember the first thing I ever ate at James, a coral curl of buttery gravlax with green-apple matchsticks, a trapeze act of rich and tart, soft and crisp, and I don’t think I ever stopped loving the food there.
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