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Archive: August, 2009
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| Photos | Drew Lazor |
grace tavern?
Paco: You've got the scent ... but no, this is not Grace.
Tough one today! OK, some clues â this is a beer lover's bar west of Broad Street. And the owner's got more than one place.
Black Sheep?
Deb: Nope. Look to the South ...
Monk's? Really?
Barry: It's not Monk's, either. How 'bout I share some other stuff we ordered, Craig LaBan Crumbtracker-style? - Scrapple, egg and cheese - Two eggs over easy with vegan sausage - Headcheese omelette
SOUTH PHILLY TAP ROOM!!
Rachel, hot damn, that must be it as the "Puretest" fridge is on the front page of their website: http://www.southphiladelphiataproom.com/ Misleading, though. The second "place" the owner has is a takeout beer store that doesn't even have it's liquor license yet.
Miss Rachel is a WINNER. This is the good ol' SPTR. Now get over there and eat chef Scott Schroeder's headcheese. (Not you, Miss Rachel.)
Barry: Brew counts as a place! Don't forget that they also do some sick coffee there.
win win! I live right around the corner... I'd recognize those wood tables and beer case anywhere!
I've been really, really disappointed with the taproom recently. Especially with the food. Both "my moms meatloaf" and the breakfast burger were dry and flavorless. Being able to dip the burger in ketchup and hollandaise sauce was what saved that for me. The tomato soup was good but I really disliked how they put the mini grilled cheese in the soup (I suggest asking for them on the side). The mac and cheese was alright. Its a block from my house so I wish it was better.
agree with amy on this one, havent had good experiences there lately- in the early summer my jeans were ripped down the side due to a lovely nail sticking out in a booth bench (with no apologies or free booze provided). staff didnt seem to know the beer menu at all (telling us one was not available when it actually was) tho i think the girl was new. the next trip we were stuck with a miserable waitress (that also works another tavern with considerably better food) probably wont be returning anytime soon
You guys are F-ing nuts !!! The food at the SPTR had never been better. The new Chef's menu is off the charts and had finally caught up with the beer. They were just in Bon Apetite Magazine for shit sake!
Hey now, an opinion is an opinion. Sorry we disagree. I used to love the taproom, it is basically my neighbor. I would love to still love it but I've had my bad experiences, maybe the chef was having bad days when I was there but I wholeheartedly stick by my opinion. I'm not picky in the least but I was very disappointed on more than one occassion.
i have to disagree also amy, it's my favorite neighborhood spot for dinner, a late night snack and for brunch. don't change a thing . . . especially the sliders or the shrimp ceviche.
my opinion is that amy should open her own restaurant and leave the grilled cheeses out of the soup. I'm leaving mine in.
Today is the last day for 4 Corners Management's Loie (128 S. 19th St.), a source tells Meal Ticket. The bistro's shutting down to make room for Zama, former Pod chef Hiroyuki "Zama" Tanaka's Japanese restaurant that's aiming for a fall opening. We had more info on that project back in June.
[...] Meal Ticket :: Blog Archive :: Loieâs last day is today :: Philadelphia City Paper :: Philadelphia... mealticket.blogs.citypaper.net/blogs/ – view page – cached o ⢠Service held for unknown homeless man, killed by police o ⢠Another Band Gets Fleeced in Philly o ⢠Should Cole Hamels be in a Phillies playoff rotation? o ⢠Shocking: SEPTA delays again! o ⢠Night of the Animals: Part Three o ⢠Best Thing Ever: Barney Frank lays on the smackdown o ⢠Damn you, Rittenhouse Row! o ⢠Two new shirts for two new stars o ⢠Tonight: Urban Cyclists Unite! at Arbol Cafe o ⢠Robert Novak, 1931-2009 o ⢠You're gonna have to bribe someone to get in on Avatar Day o ⢠Night of the Animals: Part Two o ⢠Ed Rendell "only kidding" about pressing Bloomberg to buy — From the page [...]
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Zavino (112 S. 13th St.), from the extremely well-traveled Steve Gonzalez, is up for an October opening in the bustling Midtown Village cluster that'll soon welcome newcomers like Michael Schulson's Sampan and Jason and Delphine Evenchik's Bar, among the many existing eateries/drinkeries. Chef Gonzalez will serve a seasonal, affordable Italian menu (with an "authentic European sensibility"), from 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily, in a space that'll accommodate just under 40. (Philly Chit Chat has an artist's rendering of the interior.) Pizzas will be fired in a wood-burning oven that'll blister dough at 900 degrees. Check out a few sample dishes after the jump.
- Artichoke pizza: thinly sliced artichokes, Swiss chard and pecorino Romano cheese
- Rosa pizza: tomato sauce and roasted garlic
- Margherita pizza: tomato sauce and buffalo mozzarella, topped with fresh basil
- Polpettini pizza: tomato sauce and provolone cheese with veal mini-meatballs
- House-made beef ravioli with brown butter and sage
- Roasted red and golden beets with pistachios and goat cheese
- Roasted lamb with fried eggplant and mint
- Traditional panzanella
- Cheese and charcuterie
Why doesnt he just call it Osteria and then his unoriginality will be complete.
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Le Cochon Noir, the West Philly barbecue/live jazz venue out by the Mann (5070 Parkside Ave.), has been serving up outdoor barbecue since opening July 4 weekend. But owner Jamal M. Parker tells Meal Ticket that there are big plans up for the business come fall. Soon they'll start moving the operation from outside (they have smokers and an auxiliary kitchen set up) to a 7,000-square-foot space inside the Philadelphia Business and Technology Center, which sits at the same address.
Features will include a glass-enclosed kitchen � "I liken it to a 'show kitchen,'" says Parker � an indoor smoker, a chef's table (also enclosed in glass), a raw bar and a steam kettle bar for �touff�e and jambalaya. They're acquiring a liquor license to build up a wine portfolio to complement chef Daniel Rosen's grub. (As of right now, his specialties include St. Louis-style pork spare ribs, marinated barbecue chicken and sides like corn relish and mac and cheese.) Of course, there'll be an indoor stage for live jazz and blues, with long-term plans to add a deck to host steel drum and reggae performances in the summer of 2010.
Oct. 15 is the target date for the grand reopening, and Parker hopes most of all of these elements will be in place by then. Currently, Le Cochon Noir's outdoor space is open Fridays from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturdays from 5 to 10 p.m. and Sundays from 3 to 8 p.m.
I initially mistook noir for nuit and assumed that this was an extension of Cochon. How have these people not been sued yet?
[...] first told you about Le Cochon Noir, the BBQ/live music venue out by the Mann Center, last summer. Back then, owner Jamal M. Parker said he hoped to be finished with an outdoor-to-indoor [...]
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| twitter.com/foodieatfifteen |
The Good Word is a new weekly Meal Ticket feature where we ask Philadelphia food people questions. We're going to start by highlighting the city's many excellent food writers and bloggers, with eventual plans to extend beyond the scribeosphere. The questions will be different every week unless we come across a really sweet one we want to reuse. Want to nominate a future Good Word candidate (yes, you can nominate yourself), or submit ideas for questions? E-mail drew.lazor@citypaper.net.
In this installment of The Good Word, we're chatting with Nick Normile, the now 16-year-old who writes the blog Foodie at Fifteen. Normile, who's entering his junior year at Lower Merion High School, juggles classes, cross country and SATs with a weekend apprenticeship at Lacroix at the Rittenhouse. (This is a kid who celebrated his birthday at Per Se.) For the record, the young cook says he wants to study business in college, with long-term plans to attend culinary school and eventually open his own restaurant.
We know you stage at Lacroix on the weekends, but we don't know how you landed the gig. When did you start and how did you get in?
One day about three years ago, the Inquirer did a special in the food section about cooking classes and demonstrations in the area. I saw that Lacroix was holding something called "Shopping with the Chefs," where people would go with the chefs at Lacroix to Di Bruno's, try some cheeses and pick out some ingredients, and then go back to Lacroix. The chefs would then show the guests how to cook the ingredients, and the guest would get a finished three-course lunch. I convinced my mom to let me go to this and I really enjoyed it. It was just me and a few adults and I was just talking with the chefs the whole time, telling them how I liked to cook, and at the end of the lesson, the chef told me that I could come back on weekends, which I've been doing ever since.
In addition to Lacroix you've apprenticed at Osteria and Amada. All top-notch spots � all with excellent beverage programs. Do you ever feel jipped that you can't partake in wine and cocktails due to your age, given that they're important to a dining experience?
Yeah, I definitely wish I could try wine. Wine is kind of similar to cheese in terms of production (that it takes a lot of care to produce, that there are so many varieties from everywhere, that it tastes different depending on where it's from) and it really interests me. I'm going nuts on my 21st birthday.
Read on your Twitter that you believe there's a "strong correlation between food and my mood." Do you mean that you gravitate toward certain foods when you feel a certain way, or vice versa — do you find certain foods affect your mood, for better or for worse?
When I said that, I meant that the food I eat affects how I feel. It is definitely true that how we feel determines how we eat, but I think the reverse is true, as well. Eating good, whole, healthy foods makes me feel good, whereas heavy, fatty, processed food, when not eaten in moderation, makes me feel like crap (cheesesteaks, hamburgers). It goes deeper than that, but that's the basic idea.
Do you pack a lunch to bring to school, or do you eat cafeteria food? If you pack, run us through your average brown-bag meal.
I always pack a lunch. If I'm in a hurry, I'll do something like peanut butter, banana and dulce de leche on this great whole-wheat bread from a nearby bakery. If I have more time to prepare something, however, I'll crisp up the skin on a sous vide chicken breast and put it in a Tupperware with some grilled asparagus.
Future rising star in the food world? Maybe. That PB&B sounds delish! I'm keeping my eye on Nick, I see great things in his future.
See you on Top Chef 10: Philadelphia!
if philly has to wait till #10, I'm gonna be mad!!!
Another great interview.
He's spot on with his comment about the quality of the food affecting his mood and overall sense of well being. Compounding over-eating with a selection high in sodium and cholesterol not only leaves you feeling lethargic, but it's always very detrimental to your health. That 'stuffed' feeling isn't good for you as it causes imbalances in blood pressure. Add to that the cancer link with preserved foods- known yet ignored for so long- and you'll see what the average American diet does to both the individual and the healthcare system(of course, in regard to the latter issue, diet is by far not the only thing to blame).
Here's an article that's about 40 years late:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/health/8202188.stm
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Fishtown's Cornerstone Market, which we first wrote in March 2008, has announced that it's closing at the end of August. Conrad of PhilthyBlog spotted this sign on the door at 19 W. Girard Avenue.
Going Out of Business
25% off all groceries!
All of us at Cornerstone Market & Produce sincerely appreciate your business and friendship over the last year and a half. Unfortunately, however, we will be closing our business by the end of August and invite you to stock up on any of the items we have remaining in our store to complement your pantry.
We sincerely apologize to our customers who have come to rely on us day in and day out. If it was not for your support, we would not have come this far and we are truly grateful.
Sincerely,
Cornerstone Market & Produce
I'm so sorry you are closing Mike. I wish you all the luck in the world in your future endeavors. It's a hard economy now. You'll be back on your feet in no time!
[...] Friday, we noted (via PhilthyBlog) that Fishtown’s Cornerstone Market (19 W. Girard Ave.) would be closing up shop at the end of [...]
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| Photo | Michael T. Regan |
Chef Jennifer Zavala, who was the first to go home on the latest season of Top Chef, just checked in with Meal Ticket to share her take on her elimination � and, of course, talk a little seitan.
The Elimination Challenge on Wednesday's season premiere was cooking a dish inspired by a personal vice. Zavala, formerly of El Camino Real and now at Xochitl, was sent home for a seitan-stuffed chile relleno (representing her fiery temper) that perplexed the judges. But the chef reveals that doing just this dish wasn't her initial plan. Zavala says she was under the mistaken impression that she had to cook two separate dishes, so she bought ingredients for a jalapeno cucumber gazpacho as well as stuff for the relleno.
"When I went back to the cast house, [I realized] we only had to have [one], so I thought maybe I should change my vice to that I don't listen well," laughs Zavala. (Note: When you say "one" on Top Chef, it's actually two plates, as you're actually required to double up your dish in the time limit � one� plate for photographers, one for the judges.) Weighing her options, she decided that doing the soup alone would be "kind of lame," so Zavala, who cooked with seitan regularly at ECR, said "fuck it � I'll just go with it. ... I took a risk. That's what a Top Chef does, right? They take risks."
Zavala says that she observed that judges Tom Colicchio and Padma Lakshmi, as well as guest judge Wolfgang Puck, were unfamiliar with seitan, or textured wheat gluten. "The only one who knew was it was was [judge] Gail [Simmons]," Zavala says. "She said, 'I've had it before and I enjoyed it. But for me, you didn't represent it well.' That was enough for me."
"I didn't sell it well and I didn't plate it very well," she adds of the dish, which is on the menu at El Camino Real. "But I definitely would've done it again. I felt other people kind of played it safe. I definitely wanted to stand out." She chalks up the dish's lack of heat (a criticism vocalized by the judges) to the fact that the woodfire grill in the Top Chef kitchen was extinguished by the time she got in the door. Since all 17 chefs couldn't fit into the kitchen at the same time, they had to cook in flights, and Zavala says there simply wasn't enough time to get the grill going again once her group hit the stoves, meaning she cooked her chiles at a lower temp than usual.
Zavala has nothing but kind words for her former employer Owen Kamihira, owner of El Camino Real, whom she says supported her all the way when she was filming Top Chef. That being said, she's extremely happy with her new gig � she started a week ago � at Xochitl under chef/co-owner Dionicio Jimenez. "I wanted to go a different direction with my career," she says.
Zavala laughs at the rumors that the Mexican restaurant hired her based on her appearance on Top Chef. "There was a lot of BS going on about why Xochitl hired me," she says. "Xochitl does not care about Top Chef at all. [Dionicio] is so old-school. He doesn't roll like that."
Zavala has no plans to put a seitan dish on Xochitl's menu.
It is difficult to believe that Tom Colicchio and Wolfgang Puck were not familiar with seitan. It is on the menu of all sorts of places. Jack McDavid first served it to me fifteen years ago at the Firehouse. For the record, here is what Tom said about the dish in his blog for Top Chef: "it wasnât the seitan that did her in, underwhelmed by that protein as we were. The dish was poorly done: the breading was falling off because it wasnât breaded properly, whatever was thrown on the side of it was just a mess, and she garnished the plate with undressed radishes, âjust for colorâ â they had no purpose."
I loved that Jennifer Z. felt brave enough to woo the judges with Seitan. It's too bad it didn't work out, she was fun to watch. I can't wait to try some of her food at Xochitl. Bravo, Jen.
I'm so sure what so risky about seitan. its not new or difficult to work with. she couldn't open clams and her dish was poorly executed. she doesn't have enough experience, I'm not sure why she was on the show.
I wanted to root for her, I really did... but I have to agree with what one of the other contestants said, "Seitan? Yuk. Nobody likes that!" It's the type of food you cook when there is ABSOLUTELY NO OTHER protein available. Seitan is God's way of punishing vegans. Now I say, "Go, other girl from Philly!!"
Zavala came across as angry Latina, as opposed to "Wise Latina", surly, petulant, whiny. Apparently what Collcchio said about her horrendous chile relleno, that the breading was coming off, is exactly what Zavala voiced as she was cooking it. Why can't she just take responsibility when it's obvious it was a shitty, uninspired. "clunky" dish? Why does she have to pout or, as this interview suggests, find excuses like not having enough heat because of the grill? Ridiculous. And hey, can anyone explain her kooky ear rings through her lobes? How is this sanitary?
Sorry, but I was really glad to see Zavala go. She seemed genuinely confused at the end of the show, seeming to stammer "bu..but.. I took a risk, this isnt fair". Perhaps Jennifer doesn't fully understand the concept of risk taking; Risks aren't sure things, and you wont always be rewarded for doing something different, hence why its RISKY. Just cooking with a little known ingredient doesn't make you a master chef, sometimes there's a good reason why the ingredient is little used. Don't make a poo soufflé and expect people to laud you as a genius because no one else does it. Sometimes being different means you're way ahead of the game, and sometimes it just means it would be better for everyone involved if you took the short bus to school.
i don't get how it's risky to do a dish straight off the menu at your restaurant. and badly.
I finally got to see the recipe. It simply says White Meat Seitan. Not all is created equal. What did she use would be my big question. We eat Seitan all the time and it is homemade where I can control the strength of the taste of the seitan by the broth. I would serve my homemade 'chicken' [vegan] to my brother in law the hunter but I wouldn't serve a store bought. The chicken gets votes from my two cats who are plastered to the stove while it cooks asking for some 'chicken'. It's all in the base. Next nothing ties that recipe together. I finally found it on Bravo. It's not going to have flavor but is depending on the cheese and grease to get it thru. The salsa didn't impress me either. However about the twit of the judge who said the midnight special at the Vegan bar... And egg is Vegan? That was one silly statement from someone who is suppose to know food. It might be the midnight special at the Vegetarian bar but surely not the Vegan bar.
whoops it cut off "And lets not forget the Cheese and butter. Vegan? It doesn't say soy anywhere in that. Someone send the judge back to school.
Love you Jen!
Top Chef Masters, the 10-episode miniseries run that tested the limits of how much petty, humiliating crap one group of bewildered superstar chefs can be put through, is history. Who won?
RICK BAYLESS.
The Chicago-based chef bested Hubert Keller and Michael Chiarello in a four-course cook-off judged by the Masters crew, the regular Top Chef-fers (Tom C., Padma and Gail, who should have a spin-off that involves them driving around in a Saturn and solving food-based mysteries) and past TC winners Harold, Ilan, Hung, Stephanie and Hosea.
The thematic approach for each course � the final three had the help of their favorite sous chefs for the meal � was melodramatic to say the least, but at the end of the day it was the ideal challenge for these three, all of whom
For the opener, the finalists whipped up a dish that represented their first food memory, Anton-Ego-scarfing-ratatouille style. Bayless, whose family ran a barbecue restaurant when he was a kid ("barbecue sauce coursed through my veins"), prepped smoked quail with watermelon. Chiarello got the ladies at the table to crack a little with his story of his momma guiding his hand over the gnocchi board. Keller accompanied his Alsatian lamb/beef/pork stew with a paint-a-peasant-portrait story about women in his teeny French village eating the stuff on laundry day. He's the only dude in history capable of making laundry day sound idyllic. "You can feel that he's been cooking that dish since he's been a child," coos Ilan, who probably used his leftover broth to drizzle-write his digits on a side plate for his new French BF.
Second, the chefs were asked to prep the dish that made them want to become a chef. Keller's beautiful salmon souffl� and Chia's polenta in a claspy jar were hits, but it seemed like Bayless ran away with this one thanks to a 27-ingredient Oaxacan black mole with ahi tuna. Alright fine, but I will say that I feel like food heads are predisposed to caressing mole over all other sauces because it's so whimsical and sexy, what with all the painstaking effort and million-and-one secret elemental components that comprise it. Mole is The Wire of sauces.
Third challenge � each chef had to recreate a dish from his first restaurant. Ahh, so '80s. Bayless' cochinita pibil gave way to Chia's Miami-influenced ginger-stuffed rouget with mango salad and Keller's lamb chop with a vanilla merlot sauce. "Rick's speaking my language here," says Hosea.
Fourth and final task � developing a "heady dish" that conveys where you're heading as a chef. Keller wants to stay budget-conscious since we're in a recession, so he serves sweetbreads (OK, affordable) and Wagyu beef cheeks (is Wagyu anything affordable?). Chia brines a short rib with five kinds of onions, while Bayless gets a little guff for draping chorizo "air" (too fussy for the Rickster?) atop a paella-type deal with tomato/jalapeno broth.
Each man gets stuck with a few quibbles at judges' table, but in the end, Bayless takes home the bragging rights and the $100K charity prize with a score of 18 stars, edging out Chia by one.
I definitely had some critical things to say about Rick and his presumptuous television personality, and I still think he's kinda enamored with the sound of his own voice, but it would be wrong of me not to point out that I didn't warm to the guy quite a bit as the championship round of Masters transpired. There's something about his geeked-out, child-like excitement over all aspects of Mexican cuisine � even after cooking in the same style for decades � that's infectious. I called his victory earlier this season and it's dope to see him give a hefty boost to his Frontera Farmer Foundation.
So congratulations of a well-deserved win, chef Bayless. (I'm still ambivalent about the fact that your brother is Skip Bayless, but we'll talk about that some other time.) Now producers: If Tom C. isn't a competitor next season, I'ma pitch a fit.
I agree...Bayless grew on e as Chiarello become less and less bearable. That said, I still want Perrier or Vetri on there more than I want Tom C. *waits for obligatory anti-vetri or anti-perrier comment* I've come to accept that Rick likes his own voice on TV just because of all the damage that must have come from being related to Skip Bayless. ick. Keller had a disadvantage--his first restaurant was an earlier, french cuisine. Is there anything American palates have moved away from more than 1970s/80s French cuisine?
I'm sad Hubert Keller (my fav French chef/dj) didn't win but I'm happy it went to Bayless and not Chiarello. When I saw Hosea at the table I almost vomited.
I too am glad master Bayless won...super chef that he is! However I think Hubert Keller seemed just as good with his French cuisine amongst the garlic mistake. Would have been happy if either men had won...both just wonderful people! Michael Chiarello was a big disappointment to me personality wise but am wondering if he got gipped a bit with one of the top critics. The other two gave him accolades so just wondering? However to me the right man won .......yippppeee
Haha, I think Hosea is going to be the one winner that everyone forgets in a few years... oh he won? Oh really? Him? Huh. I'm happy for Bayless. He seems like a stand-up guy. I am a little pissed, on a personal note, because one of the few good things I thought I was getting from moving to Philly to LA was improved Meixcan food.... but it hasn't been all that great, and it seems like he's got some of the best around, in Chicago. Shouldn't SoCal have a monoply on this? Oh well.
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The International House of Pancakes location that took over for Passage to India (1320 Walnut St.) opened to the public this morning, a rep tells Meal Ticket. The chain's doing a "kids eat free deal" through Sept. 13 � families with children 12 and under who eat in from 4 to 10 p.m. get a gratis kid's meal with the purchase of an adult entr�e.
Who's excited? He is:
That clip is hilarious. Not so much while watching the movie, but in the context of IHOP, absolutely.
The IHOP Kids Menu is a fast track to diabetes, heart disease and obesity. If you love your kids, don't feed them this garbage even if it is free.
Please tell me what's funny about the IHOP Kids Funny Face Pancake:
* Calories 1456
* Total Fat 69g
* Sodium 556mg
* Total Carbohydrate 77g
* Sugars 76g
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Meal Ticket had the scoop on Izakaya chef/TLC star Michael Schulson's Sampan back on July 13, but we've just snagged a few more details on the tour-of-Asia menu. Check out the latest teases after the jump. (Menu will be affordable, with prices hovering between $7 and $29.) The restaurant (122 S. 13th St.) will open sometime in November.
- Edamame dumpling with black truffles, onion sprouts and sake
- Tuna tataki summer rull with ponzu gelee, somen noodles and chiles
- Skate wing sandwich with oshinko, arugula and tartar sauce
- "Steak and eggs": braised short rib with egg and Asian pear
- Veal tonkatsu burger with panko, kimchee and katsu sauce
- Young fried rice with shrimp, gold chives and congee
- Crispy frog legs with Chinese celery and blue cheese
[...] We’re hearing that chef Michael Schulson’s Sampan (122 S. 13th St.), which we first noted back in July, will be opening next Friday, Sept. 18. More soon; for now, check out our interview with the dude and some menu details we posted back in August. [...]
The real menu at Sampan is fabulous. I just went there last night with some friends and fell in love. The food, atmosphere and service were amazing. I was shocked that the restaurant had been open less than a week. Some of my favorite items were: edamame dumplings, "philly cheesesteak", lobster roll, brussel sprouts (which I normally won't eat), filet, snapper and the soft serve ice cream. The bonus is the price - this didn't break my weekend budget and it's a restaurant that is affordable to eat at on a frequent basis - not just for special occasions.
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