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Archive: August, 2011
Olivier Desaintmartin's Zinc (246 S. 11th St.) is getting a new chef the third week of September — Nanina Scriber, late of Alain Ducasse's Benoit in Midtown Manhattan, who's replacing Justin Bennett, now cooking with Brian Ricci at Kennett (848 S. Second St.).
Meanwhile, at Caribou Café (1126 Walnut St.), the Chopped-winning chef's other Center City establishment, Desaintmartin is is offering two bits of long-form dealage. The first is a 15 percent industry discount after 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and after 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; it's a summer promo he's carrying into fall. The second: Through the month of September, drop $20 and you'll get an order of steak frites, plus a wine or beer. For those seeking a fully immersive experience, Desaintmartin would like it to be known that Caribou will gladly accept Euros in lieu of U.S. dollars for the deal. "I'll give the difference to my waiters [to make up] for the tips the French don't leave them," jokes Desaintmartin, a native of Champagne. "Don't they study foreign customs before they travel?"
Lindsey Love, the baker who runs Coco Love Homemade, has earned plenty of local daps for her whoopie pies, but it's her chocolate chip crisp — a chocolate chip cookie of the thin, crunchy-edged and chewy-centered persuasion — that has us ETI-ing all over the place. Love, a cookie obsessive since her high school days in Baltimore, uses organic whipped sweet cream butter and organic whole-wheat flour, both sourced through Lancaster Farm Fresh, to create these discus-like wonders. And the secret ingredient here hits the exacta of textural appeal and legit health benefits — Love cuts her dough with whole ground flaxseed meal, which grants her cookies a nutty bite while imbuing hedonist snackers with Omega 3 fatty acids and dietary fiber.
Right now you can get Coco Love cookies at Brew (1900 S. 15th St.) and Shot Tower (542 Christian St.), and Love tells us to be on the lookout for a few signature brownie varieties to hit the shelves sooner rather than later. For now, though — eat this immediately!
Photo: Drew Lazor
Last time Chick-fil-A did something nice for Philly, it involved armies of terrifying humanoid cows crawling all over our most noted landmarks. This one's a little more subdued and doesn't smack of bovine colonization — starting today, you can go to chick-fil-aforbreakfast.com to register for a free Chick-fil-A breakfast between Sept. 6 and 10. Simply select a time and location and it'll provide you with a voucher to redeem for a breakfast chicken biscuit, a chicken/egg/cheese bagel or a bunch of other a.m. poultry options (they have sausage stuff too). It's free and it doesn't involve you dressing up as one of them.
Monday, August 22
Percy Street Barbecue will open a new sandwich-focused location in the Comcast Center.
The new, gigantic Superfresh has opened in Northern Liberties.
Check out Bistrot La Minette chef Peter Woolsey's France travelogue, good stuff.
Le Bec-Fin's subterranean hang is now known as Tryst.
Lamb shoulders, Maker's and makeup, Lion Bars and more fatness in Notes from the Weekend.
Tuesday, August 23
Check out MilkBoy Philly's food and drink menus.
What were you eating during the earthquake?
Garces Trading Co. rearranges and expands.
Wednesday, August 24
A multi-chef Sausagefest is scheduled for September at South Philly Tap Room.
Joey Vento of Geno's Steaks is dead at the age of 71.
Thursday, August 25
Potbelly Sandwich Shop is closed on Walnut; we hear Chipotle is sniffing around the area.
Adam Erace busts out the ice cream equipment to create Philly's own Phanatic Tracks.
Friday, August 26
Jason Goodman shares plans for his new chef gig at The Farmers' Cabinet.
We want to know about your favorite quinoa dishes.
Chef Lucio Palazzo is bowing out of Xochitl after Restaurant Week.
Once a week, Team Meal Ticket shares its latest sugar-laten fixations. Do not tell our dentist.
IN QUESTION: Mamba brand fruit chews, which have always seemed so staid and humorless when compared to the zestier Now and Laters or Jolly Rancher Fruit Chews, now come in "Funny Fruit Gummy" form (made with real fruit juice!). I have absolutely no objections to the broadening of the Mamba market, but I must object to the practice of anything, candy or otherwise, self-identifying as "funny." It's obnoxious, just like the girl you went to high school with who constantly described herself as "superrrrr sarcastic." You can't call yourself sarcastic! And you can't call yourself funny, either. This is solid advice, Mamba Funny Fruit Gummies.
WHERE TO BUY: The 7-Eleven at 11th and Washington, which is in a heated race with the 7-Eleven at 10th and Snyder and the Wawa in Chinatown in the "most overtly crazy people outside every time we visit" competition.
MANY DO WE TYPICALLY EAT IN ONE SITTING: I made about a 25 percent dent in this bag before handing them off to CP arts editor and fellow candy enthusiast Carolyn Huckabay — they've got the consistency of grandpa-friendly old-school gummy candy (softer than gummi bears or worms), but they're so incredibly sweet that I started twitching afer like two oranges, three raspberries and maybe a few watermelons and cherries. OK maybe I shouldn't have eaten so much so fast.
FINER POINTS: Perhaps I have a higher tolerance for sour stuff than some people, but it really irks me when candy is emblazoned with a bold "SOUR!!!" declaration and then is not even remotely sour. These jawns are saccharine as hell, quit lying bag!
Photos: Drew Lazor
Adriana's Pizza, three-time gold-medal winner of the South Philly Review's annual Pizzalympics, is moving from its Pennsport digs. The pizzeria is currently closed for vacation (hopefully not at the Shore) and will reopen at its new location on Sept. 6. Where you ask? Not far. The slice-slinging operation is heading just nine blocks west to 1703 S. 11th Street, former home of perpetually empty paesan’ hang Family and Friends Cafe (above).
Xochitl (408 S. Second St.), which Demetri Pappas and Peter Leontara took over from former owners Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook last month, retained chef Lucio Palazzo (above) in the switchover. Now Palazzo has announced he's leaving the Headhouse Square Mexican joint after Restaurant Week in mid-September. No official landing spot for him just yet; the chef tells Meal Ticket he plans on taking some time to pursue kitchen apprenticeships to "hone his craft," and is focusing on restaurants in California, Mexico City, Italy and NYC.
Hurricane, shmurricane was the outlook of Pub & Kitchen's Avalon sister spot The Diving Horse (2109 Dune Drive) yesterday. “We are not going anywhere,” the restaurant tweeted. “We are open till they make us leave.”
Well, Chris Christie made them leave. If you were planning to dine at the BYO this weekend, all is not lost. Chef Jonathan Adams just announced a five-course Irene pop-up in the upstairs dining room at Pub & Kitchen (1946 Lombard St.), featuring Diving Horse dishes and sun-tanned staff, on Saturday night. Cost is $65 per person, umbrellas not included.
Meal Ticket reader ME checks in with this super-grainy query:
Quinoa is my new favorite food. And by the grace of the food gods, it's actually good for me, unlike everything else I like to eat. I have pages and pages of quinoa recipes (quinoa lasagna is much better than you'd think), but I'm sure actual chefs can rock it better than I can. Please aid me in my search for the best quinoa-centric dishes Philly restaurants have to offer. (Links to other awesome quinoa recipes are welcome, as well!)
Help out our quinoa-fixated friend in the comments, won't you?
Earlier this month, we told you about chef Jason Goodman waving goodbye to his gig at Parc (227 S. 18th St.) to become head chef at The Farmers' Cabinet (1113 Walnut St.). Today is his last day at the Rittenhouse brasserie; starting next week, Goodman will familiarize himself with the new digs and prepare F-Cab's first-ever lunch and freshened dinner menus, both of which will debut in time for Restaurant Week. Goodman will combine the restaurant's American farmhouse feel with honed French technique to conceive a menu with a "whole-chop, bone-in" rusticity, big on braises and confits. What's getting his juices flowing? Ribs — buffalo short ribs and St. Louis style, to be more specific. "They don't do that a lot around here," he says.
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