Archive: September, 2010

POSTED: Wednesday, September 8, 2010, 11:24 PM
Filed Under: Chef Salad | Food News
Photo | Adam Erace
Le Virtù's lemon tagliolini with prosciutto
It’s been a busy summer for Francis Cratil Cretarola and Cathy Lee, sweetheart owners of South Philly cucina Le Virtù (1927 E. Passyunk Ave.). In the past month, they won a Best of Philly award for their ethereal pastas; premiered their year-in-the-making Il Campo beer garden; and parted ways with opening chef Luciana Spurio — a mutual break-up, according to Cretarola. Meal Ticket brings you the first word on her replacement, Joe Cicala. Cicala is a 27-year-old Maryland boy — Lazor likes him already — who’s done time at Del Posto in New York, Galileo in D.C. and the Michelin-starred Ristorante al Cenacolo in Salerno, Italy. "I'm excited to be here," he says of our fair town. "All the natural resources nearby ... it's a chef’s dream." Cicala is of Sicilian descent, and while this might mean bloodshed in the old country, he’ll retain Le Virtù’s Abruzzese focus while introducing his own recipes, like quail stuffed with house-made pork sausage, porchetta-style rabbit and smoked potato gnocchi (!!!!!!) layered with braised lamb ragu. New menus will be rolling out officially next week — we’ll have them then — or make rezzies for Mon., Sept. 27, when Cicala plates up four courses paired with Duvel and Ommegang beers for $65 a head (menu below). Warm chocolate budino with mascarpone gelato and sour cherry puree’s already got us drooling.

Antipasto

Duvel-marinated swordfish ceviche with fennel, oranges, red onion and arugula

with Duvel Golden Ale

Primo

House-made tagliatelle pasta with Rare Vos-steamed mussels and Muffata sheep’s milk cheese from Abruzzo

with Ommegang Rare Vos Amber

Secondo

Ommegang Abbery Ale-braised short rib, creamy polenta and root vegetables

with Ommegang Abbel Ale Dubbel

Dolce

Warm chocolate budino with marscarpone gelato and sour cherry puree

with Ommegang Three Philosophers Quadrupel Ale


lorraine
Posted 2010-11-05 12:06:24
My husband and I were able to tell the chefs had changed, even before the change was announced. The food had gone downhill. The dish above used to be one of my favorites when the former chef was there...the fried rolls were terrible. I wish I knew where the former chef went!

Southron
Posted 2010-09-08 22:24:14
Sounds like he's got good credentials, but I go to Osteria way more than Le Virtu these days. Better food, better service.

David Mancini
Posted 2010-09-10 10:10:47
I am looking forward to the new menu and experiencing Chef Cicala's cuisine.  I was introduced to Le Virtu recently by my family (roots in Marche) and was delighted to find authentic regional cuisine in my home town.  What a treat! The service and hospitality made it feel like coming home again.  I gladly make the trip from Manhattan to Philly anytime to dine at Le Virtu. Chef Cicala can only add to what makes Le Virtu special.

VIDEO: Le Virtu chef Joe Cicala’s smoked potato gnocchi :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2010-10-06 15:05:45
[...] this clip of chef Joe Cicala (Adam Erace told you about him here) rocking a smoked potato gnocchi with lamb ragu at Le Virtù (1927 E. Passyunk Ave.). That kitchen [...] 

JIM LIBERATORE
Posted 2010-10-04 12:32:07
WHERE DID LUCIANA SPURIO GO ?

Chuck Shotton
Posted 2010-09-09 07:48:05
Philly is incredibly lucky to have Chef Cicala in town. We enjoyed many months of his creative talents, attention to detail, and wonderful food while dining at Palio in Leesburg, VA. Our town's loss is certainly Le Virtu's gain. We are already planning the next road trip for dinner. In the meantime, definitely check out the charcuterie (Joe makes some awesome stuff!) and the budino is not to be missed (warm chocolate, a drizzle of EVO, and some sea salt make an incredible combination.)  Buona fortuna a tutti!
Posted by Adam Erace @ 11:24 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Wednesday, September 8, 2010, 8:58 PM
Filed Under: Chef Salad | Menu Time | Openings
Photo | Neal Santos
Back in June, chef Todd Dae Kulper, who earned great looks during his short stint at Ro-Zu at Seventh and Bainbridge, told us that he was working on something new in the Philly area. Turns out he'll be running the show at the still-not-named izakaya going into The Khyber (56 S. Second St.) — h/t to Meal Ticket reader LP for coining the placeholder name "Iza-Khyber." Kulper tells Meal Ticket he's been crazy busy getting everything lined up, and Iza-Khyber co-owner Stephen Simons passes along some of the chef's ideas for the opening menu, which you can check out after the jump. No official prices yet. (For the noodleheads out there lamenting Philly's dearth of ramen joints — Kulper will be slinging serious soups here.) As for what it'll be called? "No name yet," says Simons. "It seems that we're following our tradition of not naming a place until a few days before it opens." It's true — Cantina Los Caballitos was called Cantina Royale until Simons and partner Dave Frank called an audible just days before opening in June of '06.

Yasai to Mame (Vegetable and Bean)

Edamame

Shishito Peppers with Yuzu Sweet Miso

Crispy Bok Choy with Garlic Ponzu

Chilled Tofu with Bonito Flakes and Ginger

Kimchi Tofu

Sea Vegetable Salad

Sauteed Garlic Stems and Bean Sprouts

Chilled Spinach Salad with Vinegar and Pickles

Fermented Soy Beans

Roasted baby Eggplant with Sweet Miso

Japanese-style Tomato Ceviche

Age Dashi Tofu with Nameko Mushrooms

Vegetable Okonomiyaki

Tofu and Mushroom Tobanyaki

Sakana (Fish)

Triggerfish Jerky

Mixed Fish Ceviche

Kumamoto Oysters with 3 Sauces

Fluke with Garlic Umami Seasoning

Salmon Ceviche with Heirloom Tomatoes

Sashimi Salad

Bigeye Tuna Poke with Li Hing Mui

Japanese Yellowtail Sashimi with Chili and Yuzu

Bigeye Tuna Tataki with  Shiso Butter Ponzu

Eel and Asparagus with Truffle Honey Soy

Crispy Oysters with Avocado Sansho Salsa

Alaskan King Crab with White Soy Butter

Niku (Meat)

Pork Belly Steam Bun

Wagyu Beef Sliders

Korean Style Chicken Wing with Miso Blue Cheese

Chicken Teriyaki with Pineapple

Lamb Chop with Shiso Chimichurri

Beef Tobanyaki

Chicken Kara-Age

Chicken Katsu

Pork Tonkatsu

Atsumono (Soup)

Miso Soup

Mushroom Clear Soup

Sake Steamed Manila Clams (Ginger/Chili)

Sumo Style Hotpot with Seafood, Meat, and Vegetable

Miso Ramen

Soy Ramen

Tempura

Shrimp Tempura

King Crab Tempura with Yuzu Chili Ponzu

Mixed Vegetable Tempura

Baby Shrimp Tempura with Mustard Aioli


Southron
Posted 2010-09-08 22:20:20
The menu looks great. I'll check it out, especially if they keep the good beer selection also.

julia shaw
Posted 2010-09-09 09:41:14
I'm dying for an affordable Ramen Shop in Philly

M
Posted 2010-09-15 12:24:50
Ro-Zu had a bump in the road for sure but they are back in full force. I was just there last Saturday and the fish was fresh and delicious   I think both places will be a great asset to the city.

Jay
Posted 2010-09-15 12:33:56
I am excited about an Izakaya in the city but can't imagine it in the Khyber?? As for RoZu, I too was there last week and everything was wonderful. I had the Eel roll and it was the freshest I have ever had.

Philly Grub
Posted 2010-09-08 21:49:20
Every time I walk by Ro-Zu it's dead. Not a good sign in my eyes.

jason
Posted 2010-09-08 17:17:47
i'll give that a shot. 
also, out of respect for what the khyber once was, i will pee on the floor.

LM
Posted 2010-09-08 17:15:43
Finally, an izakaya in Philly! I can't wait...

Drew Lazor
Posted 2010-09-08 23:20:24
Southron:

They will definitely be keeping the beer program.

Royal Sushi & Izakaya rolls out with a Feb. 21 ramen fest :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2011-02-08 16:49:59
[...] to convert their Old City rock club (56 S. Second St.) into an izakaya (Japanese pub) run by former Ro-Zu chef Todd Dae Kulper. A certain contingent of folks did not seem keen to this idea, and Simons and Frank eventually [...] 
Posted by Drew Lazor @ 8:58 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Wednesday, September 8, 2010, 8:00 PM
Filed Under: Snack Time
rarerborealis.com
A Rarer Borealis takes her cute little vegetarian self out of NYC and into the Iowa State Fair and shares with us her food findings. Included are fried goods, various jerkies, foods on sticks ... and strange combinations of the three. It shines a light onto the unknown traditions of the Midwest through their food. Also included is a vintage MST3K video. Nerds rejoice! - I Am Beer Wise gives us the rundown on the collaboration between One Village Coffee and Victory Brewing to create Victory Village Ale at a Plymouth Meeting Whole Foods.  Coffee and beer are a tasty combo in my book, and IABW gives a much more thorough and helpful description, along with where you can find the brew. I'm still kind of stuck on the fact that Whole Foods in the 'burbs have pubs attached to them. Yo Philly — let's get on that, hmm? - Bitters are not normally in my realm of tasty things. I usually equate them with old-timey cocktails or fancy fops stuck in the Victorian era. But Burning Pasta makes a great pro-bitters argument, explaining how it's not my personal fault, but my age's, that I'm uninterested. He also shares a recipe on how to make your own bitters at home, and includes his own cocktail featuring peaches. - In perfect timing for the impending fall season, Mac and Cheese shares her love of, and a recipe for, squash casserole. It is a southern food staple, and though I've never made it, her photos and unabashed love for it are contagious. I'd like to try to impress some veg friends by whipping this up in the near future. - Psssst ... hey MoMa ... I know you guys are really cool and cutting-edge and I love your museum/exhibits/lectures/store, and it sort of kills me to say this, but apparently no one told you this "Banana Bunker" is err... extremely phallic. And kind of totally unnecessary. Fifteen-year-old me is giggling super-duper hard right now. LOL, I wrote "hard." - HBO has a show called Hard Knocks about NFL training camp. In this clip, you get to see NY Jets coach Rex Ryan truly inspire his team, and then end his pearls of wisdom in a manner Meal Ticket truly appreciates. PLEASE NOTE Coach's language in the video is quite colorful (very NSFW).

cleevus
Posted 2010-09-09 17:49:16
has anyone linked through to the bitters recipe?  First of all, that is NOT how you make bitters and will surely taste like ass.  Secondly, would you trust ANYONE who ruined a delicious bourbon with peaches and brown sugar??  Lastly, what's with the song?

Allison
Posted 2010-09-08 20:13:43
Bitters are an excellent thing to keep in the house. Biting on a lemon wedge with bitters on it is an instant hiccup cure!

rachelburgos
Posted 2010-09-09 14:15:25
I cannot stop watching the Rex Ryan clip.
Posted by Rachel Burgos @ 8:00 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Wednesday, September 8, 2010, 7:20 PM
Filed Under: Food News
Thanks to the tipster who put us on to this one: Philly Cupcake (12th and Chestnut), which opened in December at 12th and Chestnut, is putting the finishing touches on a big expansion directly south, into what was Zack's Cafe. Co-owner Johnny Columbo tells Meal Ticket the new space, which is roughly 550 square feet, will serve as an "art kitchen," aka a wide-open space where folks can watch PC's bakers prepping, mixing and decorating. The new space will be unveiling early next week, and its debut coincides with the launch of several new offerings from Philly Cupcake, namely a chocolate-covered brownie on stick (!) and a $13 special they're calling "The Lunch Box," a four-pack of back-to-school-themed cupcakes — peanut butter/jelly; carrot cake (eat your veggies!); the "Teacher's Pet," spiced applesauce cake with cinnamon/brown butter buttercream; and the "Lunchbox Chocolate Cake," filled with vanilla buttercream and glazed with chocolate.

Philly Cupakes to expand, now offering back to school cupcakes | Love Cupcakes
Posted 2010-09-10 14:56:15
[...] Philadelphia City Paper food blog Meal Ticket comes the news that Philly Cupcake is [...] 

poncho
Posted 2010-09-08 16:21:23
Omg did you say spiced applesauce cake with cinnamon and brown butter buttercream????? I want that right now!

barry eichner
Posted 2010-09-11 08:10:24
philly cupcake rocks!

everythhing is amazing.

they won the most awards in our cupcake warz!!!
http://foodrulez.com/2010/08/21/philly-cupcake-warz/
Posted by Drew Lazor @ 7:20 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Wednesday, September 8, 2010, 6:25 PM
Filed Under: Booze | Food News
Whether you read it on a receipt (dag Brownstoner) or saw a sign on the door indicating it would soon start taking reservations, Garces Trading Co. (1111 Locust St.) has been feeling the heat beyond just what exec chef Adam DeLosso’s been cooking, beyond even the headache that is the PLCB lawsuit. "Everyone forgets that we have nothing to do with the PLCB problem," says DeLosso. "The PLCB only leases space from us. When [they] stop selling liquor at 5 p.m. on a Sunday, people who came unprepared for BYOB get mad at me. But that’s the law." That said, GTC’s recent application for its own liquor license, plus the impending reservation policy, have some wondering whether the spot is poised to shift from a casual prepared-foods market/BYOB eatery into a more formal restaurant. DeLosso, though, says the impending reservations policy is purely operational. "The problem that we’ve heard most from our constituents is that it takes too long to get seated, and they’re never guaranteed a seat when they get here," says the chef, noting that with theater season coming, big groups will be clamoring for exact times. He’d like to accommodate that audience. "People with six to 12 diners can never get in here. People who come here and are told there is an hour or so wait — they go somewhere else." So GTC will have reservations, along with keeping a few select tables (no idea how many yet) open for walk-ins. As for the liquor license — they want the ability to serve wine by the glass ("if you don’t feel like having to buy a whole bottle"), beers and pitcher drinks like vodka-spiked rosemary lemonade, margaritas, sangria and mojitos. The market-style approach is not changing —  the reason GTC has been participating in farmers markets at The Piazza and Headhouse Square is to better promote their wares. So the Trading Company is not converting into an operation similar to Garces' other spaces — they just want to make it easier for diners to know there's space for them when they come. That’s good, as I can never get a seat when I’m just roaming around the area.
Posted by A.D. Amorosi @ 6:25 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Wednesday, September 8, 2010, 5:48 PM
Filed Under: Openings
Betty's Speakeasy (2241 Grays Ferry Ave.), which fudge lady Liz Begosh of Betty's Tasty Buttons closed temporarily for the summer to make time for renovations, will finally reopen to the public this coming Friday, Sept. 10. They'll throw a reopening party, with some cupcakes and fudge and whatnot, from 6 to 9 p.m. that evening. Welcome back!

Neighbor
Posted 2010-09-08 16:33:13
I live very close to Betty's and I really, really want to like it but I don't.  The staff has a weird anxiousness to them, to point where I walked out one time because the woman working made me feel so uncomfortable.  I hope they reopen with friendlier employees.
Posted by Drew Lazor @ 5:48 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Wednesday, September 8, 2010, 5:28 PM
Filed Under: Coffee | Openings
Manakeesh Cafe on Facebook
Manager Abd Ghazzawi just checked in with Meal Ticket to share some prelim details on Manakeesh Cafe and Bakery, a Lebanese cafe at 45th and Walnut. The 3,000-square-foot historic building, at 4420 Walnut Street, is owned by the same company that owns the Association of Islamic Charitable Projects mosque across the street; it's currently being partitioned, and 2,000 feet of it will be dedicated to Manakeesh, named for the Lebanese flatbread sandwich that's traditionally topped with salty cheese, thyme or ground spiced beef or lamb. The 40-seat café will specialize in these eats, but Ghazzawi says they aim to fuse Lebanese and American breakfast traditions together — expect sausage/egg/cheese combos, tuna melts and various other meaty eats joining forces with Lebanese baked goods like ma'amoul (basically a shortbread cookie stuffed with dates or nuts) and kanafi, a phyllo-based sweet treat. To drink: Lebanese and herbal teas, Turkish coffee and espresso beverages, too. Manakeesh, which is up for a November opening, will open daily at 6 a.m. and close anywhere from to 6 to 10 in the evening depending on the season.

Manakeesh to open Monday :: Meal Ticket :: Food Blog :: Philadelphia City Paper
Posted 2011-01-12 11:12:28
[...] Cafe and Bakery, the Lebanese hub that Meal Ticket first discussed in September, will open this coming Monday, Jan. 17, says GM Abd Ghazzawi. The combo coffee house and bakery is [...] 
Posted by Drew Lazor @ 5:28 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Wednesday, September 8, 2010, 4:22 PM
Filed Under: Food News
Pod (3636 Sansom St.) is rolling out some menu changes with the start of the fall semester, and Meal Ticket has a first look at the new menu. (Download it in PDF format here.) Geared toward more shareable portions with a more student-friendly price point, there are now brand-new tempura and hibachi selection at the sushi restaurant. Steamed buns and crab dumplings are new additions to the dim sum menu; lamb ;o mein is the newest noodle in town; and look for suzuki, king Sslmon, king crab and madai, jumbo lump crab California rolls, avocado rolls, and a" TnT" roll on the sushi and sashimi menus.

Foobooz » Pod Overhauls Menu
Posted 2010-09-10 12:13:32
[...] New menu items at Pod [Meal Ticket] [...] 

Southron
Posted 2010-09-08 22:27:34
Wait. Wait. Pod is still open?!? No way.
Posted by Anthony Sica @ 4:22 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Tuesday, September 7, 2010, 7:54 PM
Filed Under: Notes from the Weekend
Notes from the Weekend is a Monday Tuesday (this week) feature that sees the members of Team Meal Ticket compiling all the food/drink highlights uncovered during prime eatin’ time, Friday to Sunday. Consider this a place for good deals, great dishes, wicked cocktails, recipe triumphs (and tragedies), bizarro conversations and more. We’re eager to share our notes, but especially excited to read yours. We encourage you to leave notes from YOUR weekend in the comments. Have at it! (View past NFTW installments at citypaper.net/notes.)
Rachel Burgos: RB
Adam Erace: AE Drew Lazor: DL
Photo | Drew Lazor
Friday: A plan to grab a "quick bite" at fish (1708 Lombard St.) turned into a full-fledged, multi-cocktail meal at the bar. Oops. Dug into an amazing spread of rock shrimp with tender gnudi, lobster and mushrooms in a duck fat bernaise (above; also, hell yeah!) and tuna atop pineapple fried rice with a peculiar and delicious vanilla vinaigrette. Also got to try a bite of the rich, pistachio-studded duck mortadella Mike Stollenwerk made for his recent James Beard dinner. A meat sighting at fish is as rare as the coelacanth, which is a fish. —DL Friday night, I had some girlfriends over for spiked Arnold Palmers made with sweet tea vodka and some bodega lemonade. We got delivery of  a steak pizza and some jalapeño poppers from J & J (Ninth and Federal), both awesome. Their poppers are made with cream cheese, not cheddar, something I didn't think of until my friend wondered out loud. We  eventually staggered over to the P.O.P.E (1501 E. Passyunk Ave.) for a friend's belated birthday/welcome home party, where I enjoyed Dogfish Head's Punkin Ale on tap. —RB Friday, I gathered evidence for my theory that the Piazza, not Sunnydale, is the actual portal to Hellmouth. Started with quick bite at Apollinare, where I watched a 70-year-old paesan' try to pick up the blue-fingernailed bartender by saying he was friends with Tony Danza, an apparent regular at the restaurant. (For thoughts on the food, you'll have to wait till my review next week.) Then, spying little kids with Capogiro cups, I popped over to the too cute-and-crowded Nana Petrillo's for a cone of ciocolato scurro. —AE Saturday was super-duper low key. Had a Wawa coffee and sandwich for breakfast, ran errands, made boxed Velveeta mac 'n' cheese for lunch (classy!), then watched Pedro Almodóvar movies while eating leftover steak pizza for dinner. It was still mad tasty. —RB I discovered on Saturday that Artisan Boulanger (1646 S. 12th St.) now brews Counter Culture, which made for a fair-trade Vietnamese iced coffee laced with eco-responsibility as thick as sweetened condensed milk. Also scooped a two-inch-tall croque monsieur sold by the half, cream puff shells and pistachio croissants I gobbled on the curiously traffic-free drive to the shore. I swooned over the salt-tinged, almost citrusy sweetness of the green pistachio paste. I swerved while savoring the endless layers of buttery pastry, brittle of ancient Egyptian papyrus. I almost hit a Honda. This is not an advisable way to drive, but fortunately I'm an expert in the road-head-for-food-nerds department. —AE Heard "Money Ain't a Thing (Thang?)" and "Can I Get A..." for the first time since my soph hop at my brother Andrew Erace's 25th birthday bash at Borgata's subterranean mur.mur. Which brings me to my preemptive hangover strike I will share with all of you now: cereal. I know, the thought of milk entering a bellyfull of tequila sounds like a recipe for a volatile chem lab experiment, but one small bowl before bed has never failed me. Special K with Red Berries, you are my savior. —AE In my opinion, there are few restaurants as consistently tasty and welcoming as Mémé (2201 Spruce St.), and a Saturday dinner solidified this yet again — I scraped the hell out of a long marrow-stuffed bone and sawed through a juicy-ass pork T-bone with bacon succotash and half a grilled peach while chef David Katz took his PJs-rocking baby son around the dining room to say hi to guests. When you're here, you're family. No unlimited salad and breadsticks, though. Stop being so cheap. —DL
Photo | Rachel Burgos
On Sunday, I suggested to my boyfriend that we do a "Mexploitation" day, so we started out with a Cantina los Caballitos (1651 E. Passyunk Ave.) breakfast. I got the huevos Mexicana, which was actually pretty bland — white rice, black beans, and a scrambled egg/tomato/onion/jalapeño mixture, served with three tiny tortillas. Snooze central. After that we went to see Machete, which was so full of general bad-assery that I think I high-fived someone sitting next to me after a beheading. Post-movie, the friends we went with were hungry and on a quest for delicious beer, so we headed to the Foodery in NoLibs (837 N. Second St.). Eventually ended up at P.Y.T, where I had my first-ever adult milkshake — I opted for the Caucasian because it was a reference the The Dude. It was bangin', made with vanilla vodka and vanilla ice cream, though I can't see spending $10 multiple times on a drink that will fill you up and not get you tipsy. —RB
Photos | Drew Lazor
Sunday, blew way too much cash on stupid home things at Target (why do I have to keep buying shower curtain liners?! shower curtains should just come lined), but I made up for it with an impromptu stop at the Taco Loco truck at Fourth and Washington. One campechanos taco, one tripa taco, a couple veggie beans/rice ones for the meat-ducking girlie and we forgot all about how we spent 15 fruitless minutes looking for scrubby dish wand heads. Screw you, Target. —DL
Photo | Adam Erace
Sunday, stuffed myself at the annual Erace Family Fish Fry in Ventnor, where fire captain/avid fisherman cousin Michael "Mims" Iraci — he changed it back to the pre-Ellis Island spelling back in the day, thus not dooming his sons to a childhood of blackboard eraser puns — cooks up all extra fish he's caught and frozen over the summer. Think fried fluke, broiled striper, blackened catfish and because this is a gathering of 40 Italians, baked rigatoni and this pan of veal sausage and peppers. —AE
Photo | Drew Lazor
Monday night, stopped into a super-quiet Kraftwork (541 E. Girard Ave.) and threw down on the veggie board (AE loves this, too), a traditional pork/prosciutto/sage saltimbocca scattered over with mushrooms and the meanest, ripest tomato salad you ever did see. Los pomodoros aren't going to stay this amazing for much longer, so take advantage while you still can. —DL
Photos | Rachel Burgos
Monday I spent all morning making my way to North Jersey for a family dinner. Between SEPTA and NJ Transit, my commute was hellish thanks to "holiday schedules" and late trains. I eventually made it to Loucas in Edison (9 Lincoln Highway). We all shared an appetizer sampler that included eggplant rollatini, a caprese salad, shrimp in garlic sauce, stuffed portobello mushrooms, and clams with bacon on top (yessssss!). After all of that, we still ordered dinner; I played it safe and got a seafood capellini. Since we were celebrating mine and my twin's birthday, we were treated to a dessert of crème brûlée with two candles in it.  Everything was delicious, and meals are just better surrounded by my loud, hungry, amazing family. In typical Jersey-family-get-together fashion, a cousin had sent over a batch of fresh tomatoes from his garden for everyone. I grabbed a handful and can't wait to use them. —RB This is probably locavore heresy, but microwaving is a really lazy and awesome way to make good corn on the cob. Just stick some shucked ears on a damp paper towel and zap the things for roughly a minute per ear. It comes out piping-hot and juicy and ready to be buttered and salted. Don't tell Alice Waters. —DL
Photos | Adam Erace
Monday, ended the summer with Mack & Manco's on the Ocean City boardwalk, where the pizza seems to get more expensive every season, no? Two large pies and five drinks — the only acceptable sip is the fountain Pennsylvania Dutch-brand birch beer — cost $60 with tip. Yikes! Really, this is just useless haranguing, because I'd fork over my whole pitiful savings account for these cheese-and-nostalgia-soaked pies. While the price changes, their flavor stays the same. After, I hit up classic Kohr Bros. for their new flavor, dulce de leche. (Great job targeting the Latino market, guys!) Get it solo, or twisted with coffee soft-serve, though jimmies aren't up for debate. A sweet way to put a cap on summer 2010. —AE
Photo | Drew Lazor
This, despite its slightly brittle leafage, is the perfect cherry. I feel like it should be tattooed on the collarbone of some cute rockabilly chick instead of just chillin' on my kitchen table. —DL

Rachel Burgos
Posted 2010-09-08 10:38:37
Holy smokes, that meal sounds awesome! I may have just drooled a little. My dear friend is very Irish, and she has a HUGE family party every St Patrick's day that involves the making and consumption of smoked butt with cabbage. I stopped laughing at the "butt" part when she described how good it was.

gourmand jk
Posted 2010-09-08 10:17:30
As is typical when preparing a meal for 10 people, my cooking buddy and I tried making something that we'd never tried before--namely, pork butt (and yes numerous jokes ensued afterward about eating butt).  I must say, at $2/pound, what a fantastic bang for your butt, I mean buck (too bad I can't use Mr. Lazor's nifty strikethroughs on the comments).  Slow roasted it with a dry rub and some fresh herbs for about 5 hours, and ate it with a squash and wild mushroom risotto and blanched wax beans.  Managed to digest enough to make room for dessert: grilled peaches with lemon zested whipped cream and maple glazed pecans.

robinslick
Posted 2010-09-07 16:59:15
Okay, i can't resist talking about Mac and Manco's, since I was also there yesterday and yeah, yeah, it's a tradition.  But $60 for two pies and five drinks?  Erm...did you ever notice you never, ever get a check when you ask for your tab nor are you ever handed a cash register receipt?  And that the guys who work there are all obvious relatives of Mrs. Manco  and clearly can't do simple math..so they stare at your order and do a tally in their head...only it's never the same amount.  We actually laugh cos' we always order the same thing when we go as a family and eat there - two pies and four small drinks.  Now, a plain pie is $17.  Small drinks are allegedly $1.50.  We've had our bill anywhere from $45 to $60, too.  On Sunday I went up to the window and ordered two pies to go.  The response was $34.00.  I said to myself, "Ha!  Finally!"   Except as we stood there waiting for our pies to cook, my son wanted a slice on the side and a small drink.  Somehow, it went up from $34 to $42.  I walked away and said to my son, "Did I just pay $8 for a slice of pizza and a small Coke?"

Yep.

So like, how do they get away with no receipts, tax, etc.?  If I didn't like their crappy pizza so much, I would never go there but even though it seems to get thinner and thinner and more expensive each year, it's the rule that we have to eat there.

Oh yeah, one final thing.  I'm a vegetarian and always get vaguely sick after I eat their piza though again, not enough to keep me away.  I am wondering if the lard in the crust rumor is true.  On second thought, don't tell me.

Felicia D'Ambrosio
Posted 2010-09-07 16:52:55
Two Philadelphia alums -- Brian (former sous of Roy's) and Kara (former pastry at Striped Bass) are holding down THE best food in Manasquan NJ's little commercial strip. 

I visited three times in one weekend, proving that nowhere else can even come close to these guys. 

London Broil sandwich -- horseradish cream, perfectly mid-rare slices of beef, pepperjack and fried shallots like to die

Cheesesteak -- just as good as the best in Philly

Chicken Salad sandwich -- why isn't there corn and bacon in every version?

Highly recommend checking it out if you're ever in that particular Shore 'hood.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/max-devros-manasquan

Andy B
Posted 2010-09-07 16:47:19
Saturday-cocktails at Cantina where I was the only guy without any type of facial hair.  Followed it up with one of the best dinners of the summer at Fond.  Corn risotto with crispy pancetta and a swordfish with tomatoes and tzatziki. 

Sunday-Metropolitan bakery croissant on the way down the shore and then a potluck dinner on the bay in LBI.  Pork loin sliders, BBQ brisket sandwiches, bacon wrapped dates, jalapeno poppers and copious light beers.

Sunday back in town for breakfast at the counter at Honeys.  Huevos rancheros with chorizo, and a double cheeseburger with BBQ potato chips on it in my in-laws backyard to close out the holiday weekend.

CMF
Posted 2010-09-08 12:52:35
Thursday and Saturday nights were closing nights at the bar, so I just threw down a Southhampton Keller Pils or two after my shift.  That beer has been on constant rotation in my thirsty hands.

Friday was a late night but with quick jaunts after work to the Pope (MORE KELLER PILS for me and my man) and then the Sidecar right before closing time to take home a six pack (Duck Rabbit Amber, Prima Pils, Stoudts Pils, Purple Haze, Lagunitas IPA, and... something else)

Sunday, I worked the inaugural brunch at Local 44 and couldn't take my eyes off the food.  This stuff looks and tastes gooooood.  I personally ordered the PB&J French Toast sticks and Shitake Scrapple-- and sampled the vegan Red Flannel Hash.

Sunday night brought a night of rest with some Dogfish Punkin, Victory's Hellerbock, and some burgers and spinach dip on a friend's deck.  Monday = more work, nothing exciting to report.  Amen.

danya
Posted 2010-09-07 18:33:21
I forgot to say: PISTACHIO CROISSANTS by Artisan!?!?! Did not know. Now, I do.

danya
Posted 2010-09-07 17:43:40
Re: Microwave corn - My hyper-gourmet aunt & uncle shocked me this summer when they served bluefish they caught, zucchini from their garden & bread baked by a friend with - gasp - microwaved corn on the cob. Who knew?

Having guests from out of town is always a great excuse to get the best Philly offers. So:

SAT Started out with a traipze through 9th St Market and then on to East Passyunk to score supplies. Wowed the visiting fam with Capogiro ("Best gelato we've ever had!"). A stop at Hawthorne's outdoor seating on the way back for some choice Yards selections.

Back home for a cheese plate that included prosciutto & mozz from Claudios, & was pepped up by Zahav hummus and amazing fig jam from Green Aisle. Followed by grillin: Griggstown herbed poussin and NY Strips from South Philly Acme. (No one can tell me the mafia does not run that meat dept. They have the best beef, hands down.)

SUN Showed off the Headhouse Market. As I was shopping for goods, Mr. Not-hungry-yet-its-too-early snagged a breakfast sausage sandwich from the Renaissance truck, and ate the whole thing in about 2 minutes. "I was trying to save you a bite, but..."

MON Visitors are fun, but when they leave it's time to relax. Happy coincidence: new fave Catahoula was hosting a Bartenders' Association gathering with Plymouth Gin. Even existing on the fringes meant random exotic-but-hardcore cocktails repeatedly found their way into our hands. The Oyster Shooters are incredible (2 for $5) and the Po' Boys rock. 

Eating & drinking this weekend was as stellar as the weather.

kibby
Posted 2010-09-07 18:53:33
I don't have to imagine it Adam-- ITS ALREADY DONE!!! I make some pretty delicious (albeit definitely white person, inauthentic-style) banh mi on those baguettes more than I care to admit.  I've been on a self imposed Artisan hiatus for a while because it was bordering on Intervention-style addiction.

Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-07 22:33:25
Can we talk about the goat's milk butter at fish? I could eat that by the ice cream scoop.

Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-07 17:45:58
Kib, Artisan really is the best. Could you imagine a banh mi on those baguettes....

tim
Posted 2010-09-08 17:49:25
Friday was my birthday and I celebrated with my buddy, whose b-day was the following day.  We started with breakfast at Morning Glory, then hit the bars: POPE to Varga to Fergie's to Oyster House to Tria to Slice (yeah, not a bar but we needed food) to the Franklin to Johnny Brenda's.  God bless my sainted wife for taking me home that night.

Saturday, the aforementioned sainted wife treated me to an amazing birthday dinner at the chef's table at Elements in Princeton, NJ.  It was a multi-course extravaganza with seriously good cocktail and wine pairings.  The food is definitely worth the drive.

Sunday, my brother and I brewed 20 gallons of rye pale ale for his upcoming wedding and then went to a family party where the host grilled up some great pizza (pulled pork with smoked gouda and scallions was a highlight).

Monday, brunched at Johnny Brenda's on a croque madame, Standard Porter and Dock Street Satellite Stout. Back at home for dinner I grilled a butterflied chicken while my wife sauteed spinach and made potatoes and corn on the cob.  I washed it all down with some delicious rosato from Proprieta Sperino.

danya
Posted 2010-09-08 10:07:42
I've had the almond... had it yesterday, in fact. But c'mon, pistachio? I'm drooling.

kibby
Posted 2010-09-07 15:30:37
That cherry really is adorable.  Also, Adam, Artisan Boulanger is my favorite. I love it as much as I love my cats.
Friday I was FINALLY rewarded with something I had been waiting for.  For four days in a row, I had faithfully gone to the POPE (literally across the street from my house, but still!!!) with the hopes that Ephemere would be on tap after spotting it  on the "coming soon" list.  On Friday, I finally got to have some of it and it was worth every day I spent chasing the dragon. 
Saturday I ate a lunch of pork schnitzel and spaetzle at a creepy, creepy place in rural PA.  It was full of old people and had a "raw bar" right when you walked in the doors that was totally unattended and had a bunch of shucked oysters sitting on ice.  I was tempted to steal some but the whole place smelled like a nursing home so I somehow lost my urge to eat shellfish.  It was a weird place but I got drunk there.  Silver lining!

gourmand jk
Posted 2010-09-08 10:05:22
That butter is awesome.  I seriously think you can judge the quality of a restaurant by the tastiness of its butter.

alex
Posted 2010-09-08 07:59:21
The goat's milk butter at fish is sublimely good. Like i don't understand why goat's milk butter isn't everywhere. I also don't understand how it's still possible to get reservations at fish. Way underrated.

Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-07 22:36:21
When you wanna get re-addicted, I am an excellent enabler.

Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-07 22:35:35
All the croissants are great there--I think they call them croissants, although they look more like danish--but the pistachio is the best I've tried. I noticed them for the first time last weekend, saw the green shade and figured it for something tropical like guava. Grab 'em if you see 'em,

Adam Erace
Posted 2010-09-07 22:44:59
To be fair, I should clarify that one pie was white ($19.25 versus the $17 for a regular), plus $2.50 to add spinach. By my math, I figure each soda for about $2. It's pretty ridiculous when you put into perspective that you could get a pizza at Osteria for less than the $21.75 cost of the white--but I can't help love the M&M. Been going there since I had enough teeth to tear through a slice.

Molly Eichel
Posted 2010-09-07 17:47:00
Celebrated Larry's birthday at the Mill Creek Tavern on Sunday. The super friendly bartender wanted to pretend it wasn't his special day but he was so chatty and sweet (not to mention an excellent pourer), I was down to celebrate with him either way. Then hit up Fiume, for some Jack and Gingers and delightful bar banter with the 'tender, Alli.

tim
Posted 2010-09-08 17:31:03
I asked the Patches of Star lady at Headhouse why she doesn't sell goat milk butter.  She said it's because it takes an insane amount of milk to make it, and she would have to charge so much for it it's not worth it.  Re: Fish, I love the food but the service has ranged from erratic to indifferent (bartenders excepted).

Doron Taussig
Posted 2010-09-07 18:04:27
BBQ on Lemon Hill on Labor Day. Practically empty! What the hell? Had chicken and veggie kabobs, then lazily decided to put marshmallow kabobs on the grill, rather than holding them over it (so taxing!). Naturally they melted into a giant mallow blob, which we all dunked our graham crackers and hersheys in. Somehow the remainder scraped off easily. I highly recommend this accident.

Michelle
Posted 2010-09-07 22:13:23
Thanks for posting the pic of the cherry! It somehow eases the guilt I feel from consuming its cuteness.  

Friday was the first time I've eaten at the bar at fish and it won't be the last- so wonderful!  Meme was great as always (corn and ricotta agnolotti with truffle and parmesan oh my!) and I can't get the delicious veggie board at Kraftwork out of my mind.

Great food AND a killer episode of Mad Men? September is shaping up to be pretty amazing!
Posted by Drew Lazor @ 7:54 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
POSTED: Tuesday, September 7, 2010, 6:05 PM
Photo | Drew Lazor
On Wed., Sept. 8, party like it’s 5771 with the chosen people of Delicatessen (703 Chestnut St.). Owner Michael Spector and chef Nick Oswald are serving up six-course feast riffing on traditional High Holy Day eats. (Chicken Cordon Jew, hehe.) Dinner starts at 6:30 p.m., $25 a head, BYOB. Full menu after the jump.

Raisin Challah for the table with Apple Butter

Grilled Fig and Matchstick Apple Salad, Truffle honey, Challah croutons

Bubby’s Chicken Matzah Ball Soup

Slow Brisket, Sweet Potatoes, Prunes

Chicken Cordon Jew: Roulade Chicken Breast stuffed with Corned Beef, Swiss cheese and Madeira Mustard Sauce

Filet of Sole with Golden Raisins and Cherry Tomatoes

Kasha Varniskes

Roasted Veg

Dessert

Schnecken & Such


danya
Posted 2010-09-07 20:50:41
Bahaha! Party like it's 5771. I'm stealing that, you are forewarned.
Posted by Adam Erace @ 6:05 PM  Permalink | Post a comment
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About this blog
Founded in October 2008, Meal Ticket is a City Paper blog about food, drink and assorted other things that make you go mmm. We do recipes, interviews, restaurant news, commentary and much more. We don't do restaurant reviews herethose are handled in print, mostly by our critic (and Meal Ticket contributor) Adam Erace. Got a tip, question, thought or concern? Just want to say hello? Please shoot a note to caroline@citypaper.net.

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