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Chef Salad
Earlier this month, we told you about chef Jason Goodman waving goodbye to his gig at Parc (227 S. 18th St.) to become head chef at The Farmers' Cabinet (1113 Walnut St.). Today is his last day at the Rittenhouse brasserie; starting next week, Goodman will familiarize himself with the new digs and prepare F-Cab's first-ever lunch and freshened dinner menus, both of which will debut in time for Restaurant Week. Goodman will combine the restaurant's American farmhouse feel with honed French technique to conceive a menu with a "whole-chop, bone-in" rusticity, big on braises and confits. What's getting his juices flowing? Ribs — buffalo short ribs and St. Louis style, to be more specific. "They don't do that a lot around here," he says.
Scott Schroeder of South Philly Tap Room (1509 Mifflin St.) tells Meal Ticket he's got wieneriffic event in the works for his Newbold bar — Sept. 18's Sausagefest will see him, Nick Macri of Southwark/La Divisa Meats, Jeremy Nolen of Brauhaus Schmitz, Gene Giuffi of Cochon and Pascual Cancelliere of 943 serving dishes highlighting their unique handmade sausages. Running from 4 to 8 p.m., it'll be a pay-as-you-go event bolstered by a large amount of Oktoberfest and fall beers on tap. No nitty-gritty menu details yet but let's hope Schroeder will find a way to work his homemade garlic/beer Country Time pork sausages (above) into the fray.
Photo: Courtesy of Scott Schroeder
Meal Ticket has it on good authority that chef Matthew Moon is indeed out at Stephen Starr and Aimee Olexy's Talula's Garden (210 W. Washington Square). Less than a month ago, Moon made the jump to the city from Olexy's Talula's Table in Kennett Square, where he'd been top toque since early 2010, to the Garden, replacing opening chef Mike Santoro. We're awaiting comment from Moon and Olexy.
Peter Woolsey, chef/owner of Bistrot La Minette (623 S. Sixth St.), is currently vacationing on holiday in France, visiting the colorful family of his Burgundian photographer wife Peggy and updating a very well-written blog on his restaurant's site. Head over to peruse Woolsey's musings on handmade couscous, prepared for him by his wife's sister's boyfriend's grandmother (above); the story of Peggy's parents, who ran bakeries for nearly 40 years; and his thoughts on why French folks simply understand food and nutrition better than Americans:
Kids are taught to eat well from an early age. not only are the school meals three courses with rabbit eel and calfs liver being part of the weekly menu but food is part of the curriculum. My wife learned about wine regions and production when she was in middle school as part of the basic curriculum. I learned about the food pyramid, the dumbest way of explaining food and proper nutrition. Why in the US can we not lead by example? No wonder rest stops are full of crap. Of course that is what you want to eat if you grew up with pizza, hamburgers, and chicken fingers.
Photo: bistrotlaminette.com
The Ritz-Carlton's 10 Arts by Eric Ripert (10 S. Broad St.) has officially announced the departure of chef de cuisine Jennifer Carroll, who's run the celeb chef's Philadelphia outpost since it opened in 2008. She's gone as of October 6; on October 5, she'll participate in the Celebrity Chef Tour Dinner Series as something of a swan song. No official word on where she's heading just yet, aside from the fact that she's leaving 10 Arts "to explore a variety of exciting options open to her."
Former El Camino Real chef and Top Chef contestant Jennifer Zavala has been laying low here in Philly as of late, but she's got a new project working that she hopes to launch in 2012 — Cherry Bomb, an old mini school bus-turned-ice cream truck she's converting into her own mobile operation. "I guess it's all come around for me, since I started my career cooking on a tour bus," says Zavala, who fed Ozzfest acts prior to landing in Philly. What type of food? "Stoner food — it has no boundaries!" Zavala jokes. Mainly, she uses the moniker "because 'continental' sounds so snooty." She's quick to point out that there will be no cheesesteaks. Look for Cherry Bomb to launch next spring.
The Farmers' Cabinet, which opened in late March at 1113 Walnut, has hired a new chef to head up its kitchen. (While praise for the F-Cab's beer and cocktail programs has been hot and heavy, kinds words about the opening menu have been harder to come by.) He's Jason Goodman, late of Parc and previously head dude at Meritage, along with stops at Lacroix and Le Bec-Fin. Goodman, who's still wrapping up his tenure at Stephen Starr's bistro, designed the Cabinet's Restaurant Week menu, and should start fulltime with a relaunched menu all his own in early September, according to co-owner Matt Scheller.
Popped our heads into Cook (253 S. 20th St.), restaurateur Audrey Claire Taichman's pretty-much-complete Rittenhouse demo kitchen and epicurean boutique, yesterday evening.
The space will not open to the public until Tuesday, Sept. 6, but that hasn't stopped them from opening up online registration for the inaugural season of culinary events, the first of which will feature the don Georges Perrier. (Peep September's scheduled classes in full after the jump.) Moving forward, there'll be both daytime and nighttime classes, touching on everything from breadmaking and cocktail mixing to Vietnamese cooking and grilling.
Chadd Jenkins, chef de cuisine at Mike Stollenwerk's Little Fish (746 S. Sixth St.), needs a little break, and so does his crew. So next Monday, August 15, from 6 to 9, Stollenwerk will take over the teeny Bella Vista BYOB to run Little Pig, a Southern-style, one-night-only pop-up that'll take the place of all that seafood while Jenkins and Co. enjoy a few days of vacation. (The BYO will be closed for normal service from Sunday to Wednesday of next week.)
Stollenwerk wlll prepare a whole pig with a La Caja China roasting setup, as well as sides like mac 'n' cheese, roasted corn, potato salad, greens, homemade pickles and peach cobbler. Fish chef Steve Eckerd, who's cooking alongside Stollenwerk at Little Pig, is sourcing as many local ingredients as possible for the night through Lancaster Farm Fresh. One complimentary PBR pounder per guest, as well. Figure on a $35 prix-fixe price for everything. No reservations, but we have been promised Skynyrd.
Since Matt Levin stepped away from the stove at Adsum (700 S. Fifth St.) in late July, the role of top cook in the Queen Village bistro has been in flux. Though Levin's sous, Rahjan Shabazz, was initially tapped to head up the kitchen, both he and co-sous Mark Regan left the restaurant last week. Owner Kar Vivekanathan, whose schism with Levin was rooted in philosophical differences over the nature and direction of Adsum's cuisine, has just brought in a brand-new guy to execute a brand-new menu: Matthew Harnett, the Hop Angel Brauhaus and Slate vet Meal Ticket readers might be familiar with thanks to his handiwork in the realm of extreme burgercraft.
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