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SUPPER
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| Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio |
| Fish fry. |
You must act fast when faced with a surplus of fish. It doesn't happen often, but when the dinner guests don't touch a few fillets of cooked seafood, you have just a few options.
Fish soup, made with whatever aromatics you have on hand (onions, garlic, fennel, celery, carrot), fresh herbs, stock and a touch of cream is a gratifying use of leftovers. Break up cooked fish with a fork before adding it to the completed soup to heat through. Grill a few pieces of crusty bread for dipping and no one will guess this is a second-run meal.
Fishcakes are something I had never even desired to make, until the Tupperware full of lemon-butter cooked tilapia and mashed potatoes foisted on me by my stepmother actually demanded I give the humble cakes a try.
After flaking the cooked fish with a fork and combining them with grated onion, herbs and the mashed potatoes, I gently patted them into small cakes and gave them a dip in egg and breadcrumbs. Fried to a crisp exterior, the simple cakes were tender and surprisingly delicate. Their neutral flavor profile makes them a good match for a variety of partners: eggs, green salad, cocktail sauce and a soft roll, or The Philly Combo: two fishcakes and a split-grilled hot dog with raw onions and "Greek sauce" on a double-wide bun.
After the jump, learn how to turn yesterday's unloved fish into today's hot cake.
Leftover Fishcakes
This is a proportional recipe; it can be adjusted to use up leftovers, no matter how little or how much you have.
Go Get This (out of the pantry and fridge):
Three parts cooked fish fillets, pin bones removed
One part mashed potatoes, cold
One part onion, grated on a box grater (or more, to taste)
Palmful of fresh herbs (oregano, thyme, chervil, parsley, tarragon, whatever you got; reduce amount to pinches if using dried herbs, which are much more intense)
Pinch dry mustard powder
One egg
Breadcrumbs
Neutral-flavored oil, like canola
Now Do This:
In a bowl, flake the cooked fish with a fork into small-ish chunks. Don't pulverize it. Add the grated onion, mashed potatoes, dry mustard powder and herbs; gently mix with the fork to combine.
In a bowl, whisk the egg until yolk and white are combined. Pour breadcrumbs into a shallow, rimmed plate.
Gently pat the fish and potato mixture into small cakes. Remember, they should be thinner instead of thick, because you want to heat the cake through without making it tough or dried out. The primary ingredients are already cooked, so you are really just crisping the outside and warming the inside.
Dip each cake, first in the beaten egg wash and then the breadcrumbs to coat. Set aside on a plate.
Place a non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Add enough oil just to keep the cakes from sticking; a splash or two should do it.
When oil is shimmering, gently place fish cakes in pan. Fry on each side for 1-2 minutes, until brown and crisp. Remove from pan and place on paper towels to drain.
Serve with a green salad, scrambled eggs or on a sandwich.
For best results, eat that fish cake along with a hot dog - the original Philly surf & turf.
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When Mark Bittman published his smashingly useful 101 Salads for the Season article on his blog, Bitten, he invited readers to share their best summer salad ideas in the comments.
One of the comments highlighted in the blog's sidebar was from Hannah, who co-writes a blog by the name of� I ? Kale.� Hannah's comment immediately sparked my interest:
Hands down, my go-to potluck salad is my massaged kale salad. The basic canvas is kale massaged with olive oil and salt to break it down, and I vary the ingredients to the season. This time of year, I like it with blackberries, pumpkin seeds and some shaved pecorino or crumbled goat cheese.
Dumb as I am, I didn't notice Hannah's hyperlink to her blog and recipe.� I went out to pick up a big bunch of kale, two pints of blackberries and some pumpkin seeds to make an uninformed copy of Hannah's massage-relaxed kale salad.� Massage some kale, after the jump.
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| Give the kale a nice massage, then let it relax for an hour. |
Hannah's Massaged Kale Salad, interpreted by Felicia
Yields: One huge salad, enough to feed 8
Go Get This:
One big bunch kale, thoroughly washed and dried
Two to three glugs extra-virgin olive oil (evoo)
2 tsps. Maldon sea salt
Two pints blackberries, rinsed and drained
Big handful pumpkin seeds
1/4-1/3 lb. chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino-Romano
Now Do This:
Once the kale is dried, strip the leaves away from the tough central stem.� The stems have an earthy, intensely vegetal flavor similar to broccoli; you can steam and eat the stems if you wish, but they don't work in this raw salad.� Tear or chop the leaves into fork-manageable pieces and pile in a large bowl.
Pour two generous glugs of evoo and the sea salt over the kale.� Remove rings and watch and roll up your sleeves.� With both hands, massage the oil and salt into the kale� until it begins to wilt and break down a bit. Add more oil if neccessary.
Taste kale for seasoning; add more salt if desired.� Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the kale relax for an hour or so (this step can be skipped if there is not sufficient time).
When ready to serve, toss kale again with hands to redistribute evoo.�� Add blackberries and pumpkin seeds to kale; then, with a vegetable peeler, shave thin strips of the Pecorino or Parmigiano to the top of the salad, as much as you want.
Serve.
Every bit as good as it looks! That massaged kale had a happy ending...in my mouth. Thanks again, Felicia, for the good times.
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| Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio |
| Tomato plants in full foliage, top; basil, below. |
A garden, be it contained in window boxes or perched on a fire escape, is a generous pet. Take care of your helpless plants and they will reward you with friendly foliage � soothing to look at, scented to combat the funk of a city summer and eventually bearing the most local of local produce.
Tomatoes and herbs are two ideal starters for novice gardeners. Basil, like tomatoes, thrives in full sun and sprouts new growth almost hourly. Harvest basil from the top, pinching the top leaves just above the new growth nodes below it, and the basil will be productive all summer. Nothing is better for a bounty of basil than a bright pesto, whose flavor can be deepened by tomato leaves.
Pruning the lower stalks of leaves from tomato plants directs the plant�s energy into producing fruit � but what to do with those cut-off leaves?� Food scientist and New York Times contributor Harold McGee explored tomato leaves� poisonous reputation in his Curious Cook column last week, and determined that there are zero dangerous alkaloids in the greens. He shared Paul Bertolli�s recipe for red sauce enriched with the leaves, as well as a suggestion to enhance pesto with the blanched and pureed cuttings. After the jump, we test out Harold McGee�s Tomato-Leaf Pesto plan.
Harold McGee�s Tomato-Leaf Pesto
Yield: Enough pesto for dinner for four � try it over pasta, on pizza, rolled up into a stuffed chicken breast, as a spread on a grilled veggie sandwich, etc.
Go Get This:
Four stalks of tomato leaves, rinsed
Two or three big handfuls fresh basil, rinsed and dried and picked off stems
Several glugs extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt
Two turns freshly cracked smoked black pepper
� cup Pecorino-Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano grated cheese
Now Do This:
Cut the tomato leaves away from their stalks.
Boil a large pot of salted water to a full rolling boil. Immerse the tomato leaves in the water for approximately 15 seconds, then remove and shock in a large bowl of ice water. Remove, drain and set aside.
In a food processor or blender, combine tomato leaves and one generous glug of extra-virgin olive oil.� Pulse until leaves resemble a coarse paste.
Add basil leaves, grated cheese and another glug of oil. Pulse until you have a finely chopped paste.� Taste for seasoning.
Add salt, pepper and more oil if desired. Pulse until just combined.
Store in a airtight container in fridge for up to a week; or freeze and enjoy in the dead of winter.
[...] here. You can also put a few of your leaves into pesto. For Harold McGee’s procedure for this click here. Bookmark [...]
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| Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio |
| Hot. |
Last week Meal Ticket experimented with pitting some seriously juicy cherries without a cherry pitter, all in the service of a classic clafouti.� This Chowhound thread made some suggestions, including using a bobby pin, a paperclip, a chopstick or the metal tip of a pastry bag.� Two Chowhound McGyvers shared their more elaborate methods, one involving hammering a (clean) nail into a (clean) board, and another that presses an eraser-gutted No. 2 pencil and an empty beer bottle into service.
Then, City Paper restaurant critic Trey Popp hit us with this eye-opening email.
In the wake of your clafouti piece, I have to share a tip on the best and cheapest cherry-pitting tool ever: a pair of scissor tweezers, like this $1.58 job.� The suggestion came from my mother-in-law.� You can pit 10 cherries a minute this way, with so little mess (or lost juice) that rinsing your hands at the end is more a matter of etiquette than necessity.� Truly, it's the best non-kitchen kitchen gadget I've discovered in ages.
Inspired by Trey's mother-in-law to pit even more cherries even faster and cleaner than before, I offer up this super-reduced cherry sauce, equally tasty on toast, ice cream, duck spring rolls, as a filling for chocolate cupcakes and seared stuffed pork loin.� Scope the technique after the jump.
RELATED: TREAT: Cherry Clafoutis [01Jul09]
If you find yourself with an excess of cherries too soft to eat out of hand, make good use of their over-the-top sweetness and intensity by making a multi-purpose cherry sauce.� Pitting the cherries with a scissor tweezer� retains the beautiful whole shape and juicy bite, but if you prefer a smoother-textured finished product, you can always puree the reduced sauce.
Sweet Cherry Sauce
(for ice cream, toast, cupcake filling, etc.)
Go Get This:
Two quarts cherries, pitted
Four Tablespoons light brown sugar
1/2 cup red wine, port, dark beer or other liquid of your choice (water works too)
Now Do This:
In a small, heavy saucepan, combine the liquid and cherries over medium heat.� When warm, add the sugar and stir to combine.
Allow to bubble, uncovered, until reduced to your desired thickness.
Savory Cherry Sauce
(for stuffing a pork loin, dipping duck spring rolls or otherwise non-sweet objectives)
Make the sauce exactly as above, but reduce sugar to one Tablespoon to help things come together.� Add a sprig of fresh herbs: rosemary, thyme, a sage leaf or two.�� Select a non-sweet liquid to add flavor: try chicken or vegetable stock, dry wine, beer or even herbal tea.
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Though it is tempting to pronounce the name of this French fruit-and-custard treat the same way you would greet The Simpsons' hillbilly Shelbyville neighbor, the correct way to say it is cla-foo-tee.
The cherry clafoutis is one of the easiest of the classic French desserts to attempt. The only time-consuming task is the pitting of the cherries, which you could skip entirely, as some recipes call for using the fruit whole and simply warning your guests that dessert contains pits.
Since Lawsuit Clafoutis doesn't have that nice appetizing ring to it, I elected to remove the pits from my quart of cherries purchased from Greensgrow Farm Market's $1 "less-than-perfect" table.� The local fruits had softened just a bit too much to eat out of hand, and so lent themselves to cooking.� Without a uni-tasking cherry pitting device in my drawer, I turned to this Chowhound thread that suggests alternate ways to pit cherries while keeping the fruit whole.
Pits were removed with a bobby pin and nails were stained when Julia Child showed up with a not-too-sweet recipe. The resulting cake of sweet, juicy cherries ensconced in fluffy custard was light enough to end a summer meal... ideally, eaten leisurely outside with a glass of Champagne.
Julia Child's recipe for cherry clafoutis and our helpful photos, after the jump.
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| All Photos l Felicia D'Ambrosio |
| The thin batter and a quart of pitted cherries |
Julia Child�s Clafoutis
serves 6-8
1 1/4 cups milk
1/3 cup sugar
3 eggs
1 Tablespoon vanilla
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup flour
3 cups cherries, pitted
1/3 cup sugar
powdered sugar
Preheat oven to 350F.
In a blender blend the milk, sugar, eggs, vanilla, salt and flour. Pour a 1/4 inch layer of the batter in a buttered 7 or 8 cup lightly buttered fireproof baking dish. Place in the oven until a film of batter sets in the pan. Remove from the heat and spread the cherries over the batter. Sprinkle on the 1/3 cup of sugar. Pour on the rest of the batter. Bake at 350 degrees for about for about 45 minutes to an hour. The clafouti is done when puffed and brown and and a knife plunged in the center comes out clean. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, serve warm.
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The first layer of batter is baked off and set with the whole pitted cherries before the remaining batter is poured over and baked |
[...] with pitting some seriously juicy cherries without a cherry pitter, all in the service of a classic clafouti. This Chowhound thread made some suggestions, including using a bobby pin, a paperclip, a [...]
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| Photos l Felicia D'Ambrosio |
| Kohlrabi with its greens sliced off and set aside |
Kohlrabi, a Sputnik-shaped member of the cabbage family, is poised to make a comeback. �The kohlrabi has a European pedigree, and was a popular vegetable amongst peasants and nobility alike for hundreds of� years before falling out of fashion.�The vegetable is often mistakenly referred to as a cross between a cabbage and a turnip, but it has a flavor all its own.
The bright green or pale purple bulbs grow just above ground, with stems and leaves sprouting from multiple points on the bulb. � The green and larger bulbs must be peeled before eating raw or cooking, while the purple variety is tender enough, when small, to eat entire.
The flesh is crisp and refreshing, with hints of both broccoli and cabbage.� Kohlrabi is only about 19 calories per half-cup and rich in dietary fiber, potassium, vitamins A and C and folic acid.
Once peeled, the bulb can be sliced or grated to eat raw in salads or included on a vegetable tray.� For a heartier snack, the flesh can be julienned and simply boiled for two minutes, then tossed with sea salt and a small pat of butter for healthy kohlrabi fries.� The washed greens can be blanched and saut�ed like you would prepare swiss chard. Look for the standout vegetable at farmer's markets right now.
Super simple method in pictures, after the jump.
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| Peel the bulb with a sharp paring knife |
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| Slice as you would french fries |
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| Boil until al dente; serve with sea salt and butter |
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| Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio |
| On the road |
Setting off on a road trip is one of America's most beloved summer rituals. Last Thursday, CP webmaster Marc Steel and I headed west to Pittsburgh to see our favorite band. Since Marc was kind enough to drive (he's the Neal Cassady of his group, and Neal always drove), I packed the cooler with grub suitable to take on the road.
We'd be eating everything cold, so I spent an hour preparing a lunch that would be tasty right out of containers. Organic yogurt, strawberries, mangoes cut down into cubes, a high-energy tortellini salad stocked with pigeon peas, tuna, broccoli and diced tomatoes and the makings of grilled chicken wraps with raw yellow and red peppers, bacon and romaine with sriracha-lime mayonnaise all found their way on to the portable menu.
Check out the recipes after the jump, and choose your road to follow this summer.
High-Energy Hippie Tortellini Salad
Yield: A hell of a lot of pasta salad ... enough to take with you, enough to leave some at home for your disgruntled boyfriend
Go Get This:
Two 8-ounce bags dried tri-color tortellini
One 15-ounce can green pigeon peas
Two 14-ounce cans diced tomatoes
Big handful chopped flat-leaf parsley
One 12-ounce can tuna in water, drained
One crown broccoli, washed and dried
Salt & pepper to taste
One tsp. Colman's mustard powder
Now Do This:
Bring a large pot of salted water to boil and cook tortellini according to package directions. Drain and set aside to cool.
Drain the can of tuna and peas, set aside.
Pour both cans of diced tomatoes into a medium saut� pan and cook over medium-high heat until all juice is evaporated and tomatoes are slightly shriveled. Remove from heat.
Chop the washed and dried broccoli into small pieces, using the florets and not the large central stem.
In a large mixing bowl, combine cooked tortellini, drained tuna and peas, chopped parsley, tomatoes, broccoli and mustard powder. Mix gently but thoroughly.
Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper. Pack in plastic containers for travel and chill in fridge.� Taste again for seasoning before service.
Grilled Chicken and Bacon Wraps
Yield: Eight wraps
Go Get This:
Eight whole-wheat tortillas
One package of organic/natural chicken breasts (usually 3 breasts)
Eight strips of bacon
One red bell pepper, washed
One yellow bell pepper, washed
Eight romaine lettuce leaves, washed
Sriracha-lime mayonnaise (recipe below)
Now Do This:
Preheat a gas or charcoal grill to medium-high for ten minutes. Spray one side of chicken breasts with vegetable oil or non-stick grilling spray and place oiled-side down on grill for at least six minutes.
Spray upside of chicken breasts with oil and flip. Grill for eight more minutes, until juices run clear when pierced and no pink remains. Set chicken aside to cool.
Fry bacon to desired level of crispiness; drain on paper towels. Set aside.
Remove seeds and stems from bell peppers and slice into 1/2 inch strips. Pack raw peppers and romaine lettuce together in plastic container for travel.
Slice chicken breast into 1/2 inch strips. Pack for travel with drained bacon in plastic container.
Sriracha-lime mayonnaise
Go Get This:
6 tablespoons mayonnaise of your choice (I used Hellman's low-fat mayo)
Sriracha chili sauce to taste
Juice of one lime
Now Do This:
Mix all three ingredients in a small, lidded plastic container. Taste and add sriracha as desired. Keep chilled until ready to serve.
Construct Wraps:
Spread desired amount of sriracha-lime mayo in a line down the center of one wrap. Add chicken, bacon, a romaine leaf and bell peppers. Roll and eat ... and eat and roll.
Whoa, can I please go on a road trip with you, Felicia? This looks better than a stop at Sonic and that's saying a lot.
It was awesome! Thanks again! Greatest post-show yogurt ever.
sounds tasty! and healthy! thank you for the great recipes. =o)
Seeing as bacon seems to be a part of my life these days, I am all about making the wraps. They sound amazing.
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| Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio |
Nothing improves a healthy vegetable salad like the addition of everyone's favorite pork part, bacon.� My aunt Cheryl serves this broccoli salad at summer family functions to add an obligatory green vegetable to our usual Italian spread of tortellini salad, hot sausages, meatballs and gravy and a� totally unnecessary cookie tower.
Raw broccoli is washed and thoroughly dried before being sliced down lengthwise for easy eating.� You can use bacon bits in a jar or fry a few strips, as you prefer. Adding golden raisins sounds unusual, but their sweetness provides balance to the bitter crunch of the broccoli and smoky bacon bits.� Recipe after the jump.
Cheryl D'Ambrosio's Broccoli Salad with Bacon
Yield: Enough to serve 15-20 guests as a side dish
Go Get This:
3 heads broccoli
1/2 medium red onion, minced
One large jar Hormel bacon bits OR six strips bacon, fried and chopped
2 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup white sugar
Now Do This:
Wash broccoli thoroughly and cut florets away from large central stems. Spread florets on paper towels, until completely dry.� This is important or the salad will not be crunchy.� Slice florets down into easy-to-eat sized pieces; see photo above.
When broccoli is sliced down and totally dry, place in large bowl or Tupperware container.� In a small bowl, mix all other ingredients together until well blended.� Pour over broccoli and mix well.
Cover bowl and place in refrigerator for 3-4 hours.
Mix well before serving.
Having just visited my family last week in Birmingham, this recipe is indicative of perhaps everything I ate down there. I had offered to saute some squash with onions for my mother, to which she replied (accent and all), "All veggies should have bacon in them". Her veggie of choice is creamed corn with bacon.
Clint: How do I go about getting adopted by your mom?
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| Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio |
| Pretty corny |
Really, there are dozens of things you can do with the infinitely variable preparation of corn salad. Just grill the ears in their husks for a few minutes (to keep things crispy) and then shuck under cold running water. Stand the ears up vertically in a mixing bowl, and slice off the kernels with a sharp knife using a smooth downward motion. If you ever had braces and corn on the cob was verboten, you remember this action.� Once the kernels are off the cobs, mix in whatever is living in the fridge and suits your fancy. Chop everything into a quarter-inch dice for ease of eating with a big 'ol spoon. Examples:
- Roasted or raw red peppers, red onions and basil; toss with a sprinkle of red wine vinaigrette
- Raw fennel and fennel tops, grilled red and Vidalia onions, mint and a few radishes; juice of one grapefruit (pictured above)
- Diced jalapenos or serranos for heat, cilantro, tomato and Mexican tarragon
- Asparagus rounds, sweet peas, arugula, more radishes, flat-leaf parsley and the juice of two oranges
And so on and so forth! The crew at Greensgrow Farm in Kenzo makes a soon-to-be-famous corn salad that features some lovely local dried blueberries; you can incorporate anything you want. Then it's time to work that corn salad into a plethora of warm-weather dishes.
- Bury a veggie or carnivore fajita or taco in the cool salad
- Heap the warm salad on grilled or broiled fish
- Fortify a pile of mixed greens � arugula, butter lettuces, frise�, spinach � with your mix
- Saut� the corn mixture and make a quiche or frittata for breakfast
- Pump up a cornbread or corn muffin mix with the real stuff
With fresh, local ears so cheap � $2 for six just yesterday at Acme � you must scoop up this quintessential summer taste.
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| Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio |
| Barbecued chicken thighs and corn grilled in the husk |
Chicken thighs need a P.R. firm. Though possessed of great dollar value and wowza texture, the little legs' image suffered grievously during the fat-free, skinless-boneless zealotry of the nineties and desperately want re-branding for 2009.
Though skinless chicken breasts have their place in the culinary hall of fame (see: Chick-Fil-A), thighs are a cook's dream. A veritable yin-yang of white and flavorsome dark meat, thighs are also ideal recession food: I picked up a giant package at Acme for just $1.29/lb.
My venerable Mom-Mom seasons hers with Italian spices and Locatelli cheese before packing them in an egg dip and herbed breadcrumb crust; a whole tray of the thighs gets baked in the oven. Served hot, room temp or cold from the fridge, the meat is moist and tender, with a crunchy, almost burnt bottom and crispy crumb shell. These last bare seconds at family gatherings.
The boyfriend does his on the grill, simply seasoned with salt and pepper and basted with barbecue sauce for the last few moments of cooking, and a better grilled chicken I've yet to taste. Scope his fast method after the jump � and get thee to the freezer sale at Acme to load up on newly fashionable chicken thighs.
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| Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio |
| After the first flip, pre-sauce |
Mike Persico's Barbecued Chicken Thighs
Figure on 2-4 chicken thighs per person (depending on size) for dinner, plus a side or two
Go Get This:
Chicken thighs
Salt and pepper to taste
Vegetable oil
Barbecue sauce of choice
Now Do This:
Preheat a gas grill to medium-high, or make a hot pile of coals in a charcoal grill.
In a large bowl, lightly coat the chicken thighs in vegetable oil on all sides.� Season with salt and pepper on both sides and place thighs on grill, skin side down.� Allow to cook with grill cover closed for 10 minutes.
Flip thighs to other side and allow to cook with cover closed for twelve minutes.
Turn heat down to medium. With a brush or mop, glaze thighs with barbecue sauce on both sides and allow to cook for three minutes with cover closed.
Flip and brush with sauce again on both sides; cook another minute, taking care not to allow sauce to char.
Chicken is done when juices run clear when pierced with a knife, or until an instant-read meat thermometer reads 170 degrees Fahrenheit.� 25 minutes of total cooking time is recommended -- like most human thighs, the chicken legs have a fair amount of fat and won't dry out as quickly as breasts.
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| Photo l Felicia D'Ambrosio |
| Always start skin-side down -- this goes for fish, too. |
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