Photo by Adam Wallcavage

 

diner
I Want Candy


You don't need to be a psychologist to know that candy brings out the id in all of us - a selfish craving for sweetness and sugar without a thought of consequence. And candy, if it's done right, hits the erogenous zones in all the right ways with a mouthwatering sugar shock and cascade of calories. But nowadays, candy is more gimmick than good taste. With a sad nod to the simplicity of confections past, we present a selective critique of the more bizarre treats to be had at the local five and dime. Just in time for Halloween.


Lava Lick Squeeze Pop
Watermelon Liquid Candy, Amurol Confections Co., $.99, no calorie information listed
Lava lick is a thick, viscous candy that comes in a squeeze bottle that loosely resembles a lava lamp. The crack staff at Amurol Confections is apparently trying to cash in on a little '60s nostalgia, but while high, tripping hippies are known for eating just about anything, I can't imagine even Wavy Gravy enjoying this stuff, which tastes like shampoo with the viscosity of 10w/30 motor oil.

Chewy Chips
Uniconifs Corp., $.99, 10 calories
The idea for gum that resembles a potato chip seems flawed. Why would you want to mix the world of crispy junk food with sticky gumminess. The gum is tough - I felt my molars being pulled from their sockets - and the "Tutti Frutti" taste advertised on the label is more like "tutti booty," as in, it tastes like butt.

Gummi Kar
Zeebs Enterprises, Inc., $.99, 110 calories
A huge wad of a car-shaped gummi packaged in a plastic stock car replica, complete with decals to make your racer more authentic. Apparently Zeebs Enterprises is engaged in the fight against blindness - it says so on the decal sheet. What they should wage is a fight against taste deprivation, and perhaps donate their products to those afflicted. I can't imagine another demographic which could stand this auto's rancid, afterburner flavor.

Hi-C Fruity Corn
Brach & Brock Confections, Inc., $1.99, 140 calories
Basically, candy corns are disgusting blobs of sugar that rot your teeth out instantly. Which, of course, is why they're so irresistible. So if you try to make them "nutritious" by putting a day's worth of vitamin C into each "serving" and replacing the sickeningly sweet taste with a "rainbow" of fruit flavor, you've more or less ruined the appeal. It's an artistic travesty on par with film colorization.

Rolicks Gummi Watch
Beacon Sweets, Inc., $.69, 105 calories
The Gummi Watch, a blob of gummi molded into a watch shape, is surprisingly tasty. But to aim this product at kids is to perhaps miss the point: Gummi Watch has fetish written all over it. The concept seems absurd at first, but as the "warranty" on the back suggests, you're supposed to wear the product as you eat it. Note the thinly veiled erotica in the instructions: "Stretch the opening in the buckle wide enough to stuff the other end into? bite off any extra gummi." And "Each watch runs on saliva? if it takes a lickin', it keeps on stickin'!" Ooh baby, hose me down. With a little imagination and creative placement, at, uh, 69 cents, you've got a much cheaper alternative to edible underwear, not that I'd know of course.

Pocket Wad
Fleer Corp., 2 for $.79, 12 calories per 1/2 piece
This isn't a chewy phallus, as the name might suggest. It's six credit card-sized pieces of tasty baseball card bubble gum packed into a fake wallet.

Glow Pop
Impact Confections, Inc., $1.79, 165 calories
The Glow Pop doesn't have a distinct flavor, more of a solid blob of corn syrup tinted green to look like an alien. What flavor do you make an alien? The point is moot. No one buys Glow Pop for the taste, but for the glow-in-the-dark handle/bracelet that comes with it. It's the kind of novelty trinket you pick up at country fairs and firework shows. Mine never glowed and I couldn't fasten it around my wrist. If I were an alien I'd be downright insulted.

Fantastic Four Pop
Asher Candy, 3 for $.99, 120 calories
Aside from the reference to the comic book stars on the package, the only reason this is called the "Fantastic Four Pop" is because it has four layers with four "fantastic" flavors: cherry, sour apple, orange and bubble gum. It's one of those "chalky" lollies you can chew; it's not all that bad except that initially, because of the four flavors crammed inside, it's a pretty unwieldy wad. And couldn't they at least have made the motherfucker look like THE THING?

Mr. Big Bar
William Neilson Ltd., 2 for $.79, 250 calories
The only chocolate to make the survey is an homage to basketball/movie star Shaquille O'Neal. I'm not sure which part of the 7-foot center this 6-inch bar is an homage to, but I didn't think about that as I slathered the tasty milk chocolate all over my face, chomped the crisp rice and smeared the chewy chewy nougat over my teeth.

Magic Pop and Pop Talker
Chupa Chups, $1.99, 50 calories
Two bucks is steep for a lollipop, but these are the most interesting gimmicks of them all. Magic Pop comes in a plastic box - with a secret compartment. A flip of the wrist makes the pop appear and disappear - magically. The Pop Talker is the perfect gift for that receptionist in your life. Shaped like an operator's headset, the pop talker positions a watermelon lollipop right at mouth level, providing the ease of hands-free sucking, a little something we could all use a bit more of.

- Brian Howard


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