Bar Ferdinand

You might expect style to trump substance in a restaurant owned by a designer, but Ferdinand owner Owen Kamihira, the father of the Buddakan Buddha and the Continental olive, makes certain that’s not the case here. His first solo venture has the sleek sensibility and witty visual details of a Starr restaurant; it’s also as loud as any of the charter members of SRO, a combined effect of the bare floors, festive atmosphere and the impressive lineup of Spanish wines. The food is straight tapas — hot and cold, salads, bocadillos and pinchos — and for the most part nicely crafted. Chef Blake Joffe’s early days cooking in Spain are readily apparent in the flaky empanada stuffed with eggplant and lentils, and drizzled with a swirl of romesco sauce. Cubes of charred watermelon are blanketed with a thin slice of Serrano ham, skewered with a thread of tarragon and licked with olive oil. An asparagus and crab flan is a delicate, creamy custard served with a spoon. Even the missteps, slight as they are, are still tasty enough to polish off. Open Mon.-Thu., 5 p.m.-mid.; Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-1 a.m.; Sun., 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5 p.m.-mid.