Hershel's East Side Deli has something of a pedigree in the delicatessen arts: Owner Steven Safern's father was a manager and partner at Katz's in New York City. Hershel's, however, is much smaller: "Eating in" means sitting on a chrome barstool overlooking the pickle-wrapping station. A great place to start is the chopped liver sandwich, a creamy spread that approaches pâté texture topped with rings of raw onion on ultra-fresh, ultra-soft seedless rye. Sandwiches at Hershel's are generous enough to convey an authentic deli experience but not so big that sharing would be mandatory. Look for the lemon-scented kugel, a densely packed pudding of egg noodles and cheese with a cinnamon-dusted crust that inspires contented belly-rubbing. Matzo ball soup comes piping-hot with several bite-sized balls, which are denser and chewier than most varieties but no less toothsome. Breakfast is limited, but the lox sandwich is excellent. This may not be the Lower East Side — but it's a good nosh on the east side of Broad. Open Mon.-Sat., 8 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sun., 9 a.m.-4 p.m.

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